For the grips,
REMOVAL: The easiest way by far has to be WD-40 straw pushed under the grip as far as it will go, give it a spritz, then as mdtoney said, a screwdriver run around the inside will break the old glue free and you can pull it right off.
INSTALL: I went round and round with this, heard the gasoline, hear all kinds of stuff - some grip glue is good, some is bad, etc. Believe it or not HAIRSPRAY works better than ANYTHING else I tried. Get some of the cheapest super-holdiest hairspray you can find (I used aqua-net, since it was $1.00 and my grandma used it every day of her life) and spray the inside of the grip and the outside of the bar real good. The hairspray is slippery while it's wet, but after a few min, dries completely. I've got 2,000 miles on my new grips now, and no "twist" in the grips. My factory honda grips had "twist" after only 500 miles. By "twist" I mean the center of the grip design is pushed or pulled out of alignment with the rest of the design.
Drilling: I drilled, but only because I'm paranoid and didn't want the controls so slip. I know people say they won't, and that drilling can cause the bars to crack, but IMHO the controls are WAY more likely to slip than the bars are to crack. In any event, if you are drilling, measure twice, cut once as they say, and remember the stock bar ends on a 919 fit INSIDE the bar, so keep that in mind when drilling your holes or everything will be off 3/16" or so. I'm not sure exactly how far in they go.
Mdtoney covered everything else. I will say to make sure to cover the tank with a couple thick towels to prevent accidents, and have room to work around the front of the bike. A rear stand will help eyeball center if your new bars don't have markings on them. Put up some pics after you're done (or even while you're still going)!