Installing a handlebar - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Installing a handlebar

Hi folks, getting ready to install my thar handlebars. Anyone know of a link or video that shows the disassembly of the stock, steps needed to remove the assembly off the handle bars and installing the new ones..

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

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post #2 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 12:40 PM
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What part of the disassebly is giving you issues?

Use an allen wrench for the bar clamps.

Depending on which bar ends you are using, use either an allen wrench or a phillips head screwdriver to remove those.

If I remember correctly, all the controls are held on by phillips head screws. No need to take the screws all the way out, just loosen them about 3/4 of the way and the control housings will slide right off the bars.

Slide a regular screwdriver under the clutch-side grip and move it around the bar to loosen the factory glue, and slide the grip off.

To make the handlebar easier to move around you can disconnect the clutch cable. Screw the adjuster in a ways and the cable can be slid out of the adjuster and lever.

It should only take a couple minutes to get the bars off.

Installation is just the opposite.

There's an ongoing debate about drilling the bar vs grinding off the mounting pegs to install the controls. I've owned a couple street bikes and have done it both ways and had no problems with either method. I tend to change bars a lot and eventually just grind the pegs off to make bar swaps quicker and easier. Don't worry, no matter what anybody says, your control's will NOT fall off if you grind off the pegs. I've commuted on mine daily for many years, and they've yet to slide around on the bars or fall off.
Go with what you're most comfortable with.

To install the grips, you can either use grip glue or rubber cement, depending on how often you want to remove the grips or bars. For 30+ years I've just used a splash of gasoline inside the grip. The gas gets the rubber slippery for a few seconds before it evaporates. While the rubber is slippery, slide the grip on the bar and adjust it into position and let it sit for half an hour. The gas will evaporate and the tacky rubber will hold the grip in place. Under normal riding the grips will not move at all. If I'm riding aggressively on my dirt bike I've been able to get the very inner portion of the grip to move about 1/8 of an inch (right under my thumb and fore finger on my clutch side), but it's never moved on any of my street bikes. It's quick and easy to see if this method works for you, if not, use grip glue.

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 01:15 PM
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For the grips,

REMOVAL: The easiest way by far has to be WD-40 straw pushed under the grip as far as it will go, give it a spritz, then as mdtoney said, a screwdriver run around the inside will break the old glue free and you can pull it right off.

INSTALL: I went round and round with this, heard the gasoline, hear all kinds of stuff - some grip glue is good, some is bad, etc. Believe it or not HAIRSPRAY works better than ANYTHING else I tried. Get some of the cheapest super-holdiest hairspray you can find (I used aqua-net, since it was $1.00 and my grandma used it every day of her life) and spray the inside of the grip and the outside of the bar real good. The hairspray is slippery while it's wet, but after a few min, dries completely. I've got 2,000 miles on my new grips now, and no "twist" in the grips. My factory honda grips had "twist" after only 500 miles. By "twist" I mean the center of the grip design is pushed or pulled out of alignment with the rest of the design.

Drilling: I drilled, but only because I'm paranoid and didn't want the controls so slip. I know people say they won't, and that drilling can cause the bars to crack, but IMHO the controls are WAY more likely to slip than the bars are to crack. In any event, if you are drilling, measure twice, cut once as they say, and remember the stock bar ends on a 919 fit INSIDE the bar, so keep that in mind when drilling your holes or everything will be off 3/16" or so. I'm not sure exactly how far in they go.

Mdtoney covered everything else. I will say to make sure to cover the tank with a couple thick towels to prevent accidents, and have room to work around the front of the bike. A rear stand will help eyeball center if your new bars don't have markings on them. Put up some pics after you're done (or even while you're still going)!

Be safe.

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post #4 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 01:30 PM
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+1 on hairspray. works awesome, also easy to get off without damaging the grips themselves.

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post #5 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 01:41 PM
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I knew I'd forget something - yes, a squirt of WD-40 under the grips will make them slide right off.

And I agree that hairspray is another great option. It dries fast and is sticky.

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post #6 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 01:57 PM
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If you have an air nozzle it's the fastest way I used to get grips off. Stick the nozzle under the grip a little, hit it with air, and it inflates it. I even had them blow off.

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post #7 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok got around to taking the bar down, grips came of everything is off .

I had some difficulty taking the bar ends off, that housed my side mirrors for some reason the whoever installed them screwed them is soo tight every time i turned the internal screw the bold will just spin.. finally got them both out. Tomorrow will install the stuff back on... just getting the feel of different positions.... some positions i like to get the bar set at ... but can't because the brake housing and the wirings not able to bend like that. ( .. but so far soo good.

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post #8 of 20 Old 04-02-2010, 10:42 PM
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No way will a 3/16" hole 5"-6" from the end of the bar ever break, unless you hit pavement at 60mph. The bars are ruined anyway after they ram the tank.
If you do drill, measure 5 times and drill once.

[
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post #9 of 20 Old 04-03-2010, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokerecord View Post
No way will a 3/16" hole 5"-6" from the end of the bar ever break, unless you hit pavement at 60mph. The bars are ruined anyway after they ram the tank.
If you do drill, measure 5 times and drill once.

You are very correct. Better yet is knowing that an age old trick of stopping cracks from going further is to ................. drill a hole at the end of the crack !

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post #10 of 20 Old 04-03-2010, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
You are very correct. Better yet is knowing that an age old trick of stopping cracks from going further is to ................. drill a hole at the end of the crack !
...and so it was....God created Woman.....

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post #11 of 20 Old 04-03-2010, 10:30 AM
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Another quirk I discovered when I did my bars was that the bar clamps have a front and a back. The end with a dimple should apparently be pointing towards the front of the bike...what difference it makes, I don't know. But it says to assemble them that way in the manual.

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post #12 of 20 Old 04-06-2010, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Just cracked my master cyclinder clamp.. i guess i had lil too much torque on it and it cracked ... sh** ...

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post #13 of 20 Old 04-06-2010, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aboo007 View Post
Just cracked my master cyclinder clamp.. i guess i had lil too much torque on it and it cracked ... sh** ...
Easy big fella! You must not know your own strength if you cracked the clamp!
Tighten the bar clamps to the proper torque, but the controls can be tightened until they're snug and then just a little more. They're not going anywhere.

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post #14 of 20 Old 04-07-2010, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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12 bucks for another holder.. thinking if i should go cheap and super glue it lol ..

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post #15 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 10:29 AM
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OK, I'm getting ready to install my new bars.

I pulled everything off, and thought "Hay, there are no dimples on the controls... yay! No cutting or drilling!"

But then I looked again.

The clamps that hold the clutch lever and brake lever do not have dimples.

-The Start Button housing has a small metal ball in it.
-The Turn Signal housing has what looks like a screw going thru it.

Does that above sound right?

If I was going to grind off the metal ball / screw, there's not a lot of room to do it. The wiring makes it so it's not easy to completely expose the ball/screw. Did you just use a dremel?

I'm leaning towards just drilling -- my idea to ensure it's measured right is to
1 - loosely put the bars centered on the bike
2 - put a dab of White-Out on the ball/screw
3 - loosely slide/screw the housing into place
4 - drill where I see white out

Reasonable?

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post #16 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 10:37 AM
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That's pretty much what I did, except I used blue painters tape and a sharpie. Just load up the dimple with sharpie and it'll transfer over, then the painters tape is already in place for drilling, just peel off after you drill. Remember to measure twice and mock everything up a couple times too.

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post #17 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 11:59 AM
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Adam -- thanks. Your idea is the next level of cool.

Did you notice the "screw" that was the "dimple" on the turn signal housing?
It's not the same thing as on the start button housing.

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post #18 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 12:52 PM
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There is a certain procedure for tightening the clamps to hold the bars to the triple clamp and the master cylinder and clutch perch to the bar.

Most Japanese motorcycles have the clamps marked for either front (the triple clamp bar mounts), or top (master and clutch). That end of the clamp is meant to be tightened first, and closed up completely. The other bolt is then used to cinch down the clamp and has a specified torque. DO NOT TRY TO CLOSE THE GAP AT THE BACK / BOTTOM OF THE CLAMP! It will break something. Hopefully something cheap, but that's not the way to bet. If the marks have been obliterated or obscured by polishing or painting then you're not screwed -- just place the clamp with the faces down on a flat surface and you will notice one face is machined parallel to but a different height than the other by as much as a millimeter or more. The taller one is the front / top.

Specified torque is 20 Ft/lbs for the handlebar clamp bolts and 9 Ft/lbs for the control clamps, but the controls can be tightened more or less than that by a little to vary the clamping force if you want to let the controls rotate in a tip over rather than breaking something. This is more common on dirt bikes.

ABoo007, sorry for your problems. Though it may be a bit late to help you, I'm going to amend the installation instructions for the TharBars to cover this aspect. If you have any other questions or concerns PM or call me at 805-807-9671.

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------
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post #19 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousmike View Post
Adam -- thanks. Your idea is the next level of cool.

Did you notice the "screw" that was the "dimple" on the turn signal housing?
It's not the same thing as on the start button housing.
No I didn't, I'm 99% sure mine has a plastic dimple on the turn signal housing... I'll grab the tools and look though. Not sure how soon, I've got a list to do today, but I'm sure it's fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
There is a certain procedure for tightening the clamps to hold the bars to the triple clamp and the master cylinder and clutch perch to the bar.

Most Japanese motorcycles have the clamps marked for either front (the triple clamp bar mounts), or top (master and clutch). That end of the clamp is meant to be tightened first, and closed up completely. The other bolt is then used to cinch down the clamp and has a specified torque. DO NOT TRY TO CLOSE THE GAP AT THE BACK / BOTTOM OF THE CLAMP! It will break something. Hopefully something cheap, but that's not the way to bet. If the marks have been obliterated or obscured by polishing or painting then you're not screwed -- just place the clamp with the faces down on a flat surface and you will notice one face is machined parallel to but a different height than the other by as much as a millimeter or more. The taller one is the front / top.

Specified torque is 20 Ft/lbs for the handlebar clamp bolts and 9 Ft/lbs for the control clamps, but the controls can be tightened more or less than that by a little to vary the clamping force if you want to let the controls rotate in a tip over rather than breaking something. This is more common on dirt bikes.

ABoo007, sorry for your problems. Though it may be a bit late to help you, I'm going to amend the installation instructions for the TharBars to cover this aspect. If you have any other questions or concerns PM or call me at 805-807-9671.

Rob
+1 for this, and a 1,000 points for Rob! I remembered reading your warnings about this when I did mine. Mine still has the markings so I was fine, but good looking out as always.

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post #20 of 20 Old 05-13-2010, 02:51 PM
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I just replaced my stock bars with some Rizoma bars (love 'em). I drilled as well, seemed much more sturdy and I'm anal about that kinda stuff. All I did was loosely put on my new grips, bar ends, etc, and get the bars in the position I felt was best. I lined up the instruments (they weren't tightened down) then just licked my finger and swiped the top of the post/nob whatever. Then clamped them back together exactly as I wanted (not with screws, just pushed the top and bottom of the instrument cluster together over the bars) then removed them. Right where my spit mark was on the bars was exactly where I drilled. Worked great on both sides, although I did notice the left hand side has a plastic nub, and the right was metal. I used the same size bit for both sides and I think the left was smaller as I have very very slight play in that one, but none in the right side.

Anyhoo, that's how I did it.

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