Install Ohlins valves and Racetech spring Questions - Wrist Twisters
 4Likes
  • 1 Post By ridewell
  • 1 Post By badmoon692008
  • 1 Post By mcromo44
  • 1 Post By ridewell
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 32 Old 06-24-2017, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Install Ohlins valves and Racetech spring Questions

First, let me start off by saying that I have searched the forums and found detailed instructions and points to be aware of on installing Racetech or any other springs in forks. Great and helpful contributions by knowledgeable members!!!

I am embarking on installing Ohlins valves and Racetech springs on my 2007 919 forks.

1. What are the steps in replacing stock valves with Ohlins valves?

2. Does the Shim stack that comes with Ohlins valves need to be modified in any way?

3. Is there a bottom out preventer valve (pardon my newbie language) or something like that on the damping rod that causes a problem? I have seen it on videos of some other bikes but couldn't find a video for a 919. If there is one how to get around it? Is there anything else to be special handled?

4. What are the torque specs for triple tree and pinch bolts?

5. Is red loctite or blue loctite to be used anywhere?

6. I weight 185 pounds w/o gear. What is the recommended oil height with Ohlins valves and 0.9 Kg racetech springs?

7. For the 2007 919 and my weight what should be the recommended preload and spacer length?

8. Can the stock spacer be used or does the tubing that came with racetech spring need to be cut?

9. Are any special tools needed other than cartridge holder that looks like an H?

A video would be a great.

I have really searched but if this information is already been posted somewhere please point me to it.

Sorry for the long post and many questions.

Thanks for the help!!!

ridewell is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 32 Old 06-24-2017, 04:11 PM
rmb
Let's go!
 
rmb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sussex Couty NJ
Posts: 7,650
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 9

rmb is offline  
post #3 of 32 Old 06-24-2017, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
This is very good! Thanks rmb!

ridewell is offline  
post #4 of 32 Old 06-24-2017, 06:06 PM
rmb
Let's go!
 
rmb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sussex Couty NJ
Posts: 7,650
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 9

Welcome!

rmb is offline  
post #5 of 32 Old 06-25-2017, 06:32 AM
Tesserarius
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 671
Rep Power: 1
 
RMB, where did the yellow vice jaw plastics cime from? Where did you get the "fluid level checker" ?

If your seals weren't leaking before, should you replace seals? Is that a hassle?

Sniper-x is offline  
post #6 of 32 Old 06-25-2017, 07:01 AM
rmb
Let's go!
 
rmb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sussex Couty NJ
Posts: 7,650
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 9

I think I get the vice jaw protectors from Lowes or Home Depot. The Fluid level checker is available from many mc vendors online, I don't remember which one I bought it from. I did not replace the seals but I had a set on hand in case they got buggered up.

rmb is offline  
post #7 of 32 Old 06-26-2017, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
RMB, how do you expose the compression and rebound valves? Do we remove the oil lock cap and retainer ring and then push the damper rod down?

After replacing the valves with Ohlins valves, do you just pull the damper rod back to pull the rebound value in the cartridge tube, push in the compression value and put back the retainer wring and oil lock cap?

Does this not leave a gap between the valves or is there a step to close the gap?

ridewell is offline  
post #8 of 32 Old 06-26-2017, 01:06 PM
rmb
Let's go!
 
rmb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sussex Couty NJ
Posts: 7,650
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 9

I honestly don't remember. I believe I followed the procedure in the FSM.

rmb is offline  
post #9 of 32 Old 06-26-2017, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
No problem. Thanks rmb!

ridewell is offline  
post #10 of 32 Old 06-26-2017, 08:09 PM
rmb
Let's go!
 
rmb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Sussex Couty NJ
Posts: 7,650
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance Wrist Twisters Event Attendance 
Total Awards: 9

Welcome! Zaq123 may have more to add...

rmb is offline  
post #11 of 32 Old 06-26-2017, 08:15 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,655
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Welcome! Zaq123 may have more to add...
Definitely, and authoritatively as well.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #12 of 32 Old 06-29-2017, 06:35 AM
The Instigator
 
Ditch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,199
Rep Power: 1
 
The hardest part will be getting the cartridge bolt out of the bottom. They use an ass load of loctite on those stupid thing. Compress the fork with a tie strap and use a perfectly fitting allen with an impact wrench.

2007 919
2003 CBR1100XX
Ditch is offline  
post #13 of 32 Old 06-29-2017, 06:00 PM
919 Rider
 
Islandboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Flinders island
Posts: 2,214
Rep Power: 1
 
I agree with Ditch. Those allen head bolts were some of the tightest bolts to undo on my bike. I only had an allen key. Not enough leverage to break the bond. So I cut an inch of a 6mm allen key stuck that in a 6mm socket, then I could use my wrench on those bolts. I put a little heat on it too and some wd40. Very tight.

Islandboy is offline  
post #14 of 32 Old 06-29-2017, 07:50 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,655
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch View Post
The hardest part will be getting the cartridge bolt out of the bottom. They use an ass load of loctite on those stupid thing. Compress the fork with a tie strap and use a perfectly fitting allen with an impact wrench.
Accurately squaring off the allen key helps and should be standard protocol for that particular fastener.
It's a fairly shallow head, so a worn, or excessively radiused new key, is a bad plan - especially if you are trying to break it free with a handle instead of an impact device.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #15 of 32 Old 06-29-2017, 08:37 PM
919 Rider
 
Islandboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Flinders island
Posts: 2,214
Rep Power: 1
 
+1 what Mcromo said. Picture of my tool. That sounds nasty, anyway it was an old chrome plate allen key. A little rust made it a good tight fit and it was squared off. Put a bit of heat to the job. Gave it several good taps. I definitely felt the bond 'crack' using a wrench. Made me feel a little anxious.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170630_120605-1_1498789631894.jpg (127.2 KB, 6 views)

Islandboy is offline  
post #16 of 32 Old 07-10-2017, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Applying some heat to the bolt might loosen the loctite. But if the cartridge is not directly touching the outside of the fork would the heat even get through to the bolt?

ridewell is offline  
post #17 of 32 Old 07-10-2017, 02:12 PM
LDH
Test Rider
 
LDH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: by the ocean
Posts: 4,360
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Trackday Recognition Referral Award 
Total Awards: 2

They are not supposed to have loc-tite on them, but sometimes they do... If that compression block starts spinning inside the tube you have a small problem on your hands. There are castle socket tools that fit the SHOWA cartridges, but they vary in size depending on which fork and it is not something most guys in their garage will have. I don't recall ever having to get one out for a 919.

I usually start off with an impact to hit it hard and quick! I use a 3/8 Butterfly impact at about 160psi and rarely have any further problems.

If it does spin sometimes you can push down on cartridge rod to make the valves touch and that will put just enough pressure on it to get it to break free. It's not ideal, but....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 919f3.jpg (153.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 919f2.jpg (164.7 KB, 12 views)

LDH is offline  
post #18 of 32 Old 07-10-2017, 02:13 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,655
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
Applying some heat to the bolt might loosen the loctite. But if the cartridge is not directly touching the outside of the fork would the heat even get through to the bolt?
It's a direct heat path along the bolt to any thread locker.
The transfer path in bolt head/ bolt shank/bolt threaded section where any thread locker sits.
The thread locker is a lousy heat transfer material, so instead of the bolt warming the female thread at the bottom of the cartridge, it'll be primarily warming any thread locker.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #19 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Ditch, Islandboy, Mcromo44: Good points on removing the bolt and the Allan key size - 6 MM (this was going to be my next question).

ridewell is offline  
post #20 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
They are not supposed to have loc-tite on them, but sometimes they do... If that compression block starts spinning inside the tube you have a small problem on your hands. There are castle socket tools that fit the SHOWA cartridges, but they vary in size depending on which fork and it is not something most guys in their garage will have. I don't recall ever having to get one out for a 919.

I usually start off with an impact to hit it hard and quick! I use a 3/8 Butterfly impact at about 160psi and rarely have any further problems.

If it does spin sometimes you can push down on cartridge rod to make the valves touch and that will put just enough pressure on it to get it to break free. It's not ideal, but....
Instructions in Ohlins valves mention 3 or 4 types of loc-tites to use. I am guessing that loc-tite needs to be used to serve as the peening that was in place.

I have FPK-105 kit. Do I need to add / remove anything or just use the stack as it is?

To what torque should I tighten the nuts on compression and rebound valve assemblies after putting on the ohlins stack?

ridewell is offline  
post #21 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
It's a direct heat path along the bolt to any thread locker.
The transfer path in bolt head/ bolt shank/bolt threaded section where any thread locker sits.
The thread locker is a lousy heat transfer material, so instead of the bolt warming the female thread at the bottom of the cartridge, it'll be primarily warming any thread locker.
Sounds like heat is a non-starter as there is no direct way to heat the female threads of the compression valve in which the bolt is threaded. Impact wrench with a long 6 mm allen key socket will have to do in that case.

ridewell is offline  
post #22 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Any pointers on the following?

6. I weight 185 pounds w/o gear. What is the recommended oil height with Ohlins valves and 0.9 Kg racetech springs?

7. For the 2007 919 and my weight what should be the recommended preload and hence spacer length?

8. Can the stock spacer be used or does the tubing that came with racetech spring need to be cut?

9. Are any special tools needed other than cartridge holder that looks like an H? Is soft jaws from home depot good enough to ensure that I don't damage the valve assemblies or do I need any special holding tool for the vice?
ewmin3m likes this.

ridewell is offline  
post #23 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 02:25 PM
LDH
Test Rider
 
LDH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: by the ocean
Posts: 4,360
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Trackday Recognition Referral Award 
Total Awards: 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
Instructions in Ohlins valves mention 3 or 4 types of loc-tites to use. I am guessing that loc-tite needs to be used to serve as the peening that was in place.
That is correct.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
I have FPK-105 kit. Do I need to add / remove anything or just use the stack as it is?
The stack should be used as is. You may very well need to remove some of the washers supplied on either end of the stack to make it all fit properly. The FPK105 has more of those "extra" items than any other kit so it makes for a great one size fits all approach to the rework.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
To what torque should I tighten the nuts on compression and rebound valve assemblies after putting on the ohlins stack?
Gudentight, but don't overdo it as those are aluminum nuts and you do not want to strip them plus you will be using loc-tite there as well.

LDH is offline  
post #24 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 02:41 PM
Centurion
 
ewmin3m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,376
Rep Power: 1
 
Garage
perhaps once you get all the answers to your questions you can update the initial post and an admin can help clean up the thread (lucky for me im the same specs as you and have the same racetech springs )
Going to be doing this soon as well, so it's nice a step by step question/answer thread is available :P keep at it.

ewmin3m is offline  
post #25 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 03:52 PM
(Quintus) Pilus Prior
 
badmoon692008's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Neenah, WI
Posts: 2,222
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Extraordinary Ride 
Total Awards: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
Sounds like heat is a non-starter as there is no direct way to heat the female threads of the compression valve in which the bolt is threaded. Impact wrench with a long 6 mm allen key socket will have to do in that case.
Huh? The thread locker is between the bolt and the female thread... you are warming the thread locker by warming the bolt (which is exactly what you want to do)
mcromo44 likes this.

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
badmoon692008 is online now  
post #26 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 04:03 PM
919 Rider
 
Islandboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Flinders island
Posts: 2,214
Rep Power: 1
 
Yep. I put the blowtorch directly onto allen bolt head. Allen bolt came out with what looked like melted blue loctite on end threads.

Islandboy is offline  
post #27 of 32 Old 07-11-2017, 05:15 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,655
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
Any pointers on the following?

6. I weight 185 pounds w/o gear. What is the recommended oil height with Ohlins valves and 0.9 Kg racetech springs?

7. For the 2007 919 and my weight what should be the recommended preload and hence spacer length?

8. Can the stock spacer be used or does the tubing that came with racetech spring need to be cut?

9. Are any special tools needed other than cartridge holder that looks like an H? Is soft jaws from home depot good enough to ensure that I don't damage the valve assemblies or do I need any special holding tool for the vice?
6.
A
Be sure to use the Ohlins oil that was the basis of the stack build.
B
If you are aggressive on the brakes and get lots of brake dive, use 125 mm of height, otherwise 140.

7
A
15 mm of Installed Preload.
B
Procedure per Racetech instructions re determination of needed spacer length, done with adjusters fully backed out Ė not midpoint.
My records indicate a 91 mm spacer will provide this, but check yours to be sure.
The stock spacer is incorrect for anything but stock springs.

8
You are going to be cutting.
Use the tubing from the Racetech kit.
A small pipe and tubing cutter is ideal for the work unless you have access to a lathe with a parting tool.

9
Care and caution re any jury rigged clamping or holding.

ALSO
AA
My old Racetech instructions say use 30 inch lbs of torque along with hi strength Loctite 271.
I wonder about the 271 as it is overkill for the size of the fastening and will need heat for any future removal. Maybe the call for 271 precedes the availability of oil resistant medium strength 243.

BB
During reassembly, suggest you locate mechanical bottom out of one side, put a zip tie on butted up to the dust seal, then a wrap of tape.
This makes it super easy to monitor your travel useage and if you do not want to leave it on forever, remove it once you are done with any oil level changes you might try or front ride height changes you make.
ewmin3m likes this.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #28 of 32 Old 07-12-2017, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
Huh? The thread locker is between the bolt and the female thread... you are warming the thread locker by warming the bolt (which is exactly what you want to do)
You are correct. I was thinking on lines where the usual approach in situations without loctite is to heat the female threads.

ridewell is offline  
post #29 of 32 Old 07-12-2017, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
perhaps once you get all the answers to your questions you can update the initial post and an admin can help clean up the thread (lucky for me im the same specs as you and have the same racetech springs )
Going to be doing this soon as well, so it's nice a step by step question/answer thread is available :P keep at it.
Funny you mention this. I was thinking of doing the same. We have an amazingly helpful group of individuals on this forum. I will update the post with the questions and answers received after I complete the upgrade. This is just to ensure that I include anything else that may come up. I have the parts but for now I am gathering info and getting ready.

ridewell is offline  
post #30 of 32 Old 08-17-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Upgrade is complete!!!

I am not able to update/edit my original post (or I am missing a very obvious button). Till then below is the original post updated with information from fellow members and my own experience. Following are some points that I did:
1. Before removing the forks, backed out the preload adjusters all the way. Turn the rebound needle till it is fully seated and then back it out half or one turn. The idea is to remember how much you backed out. This is to ensure that during assembly the rebound pin does not bottom out and get damaged in the process.
2. Following Islandboy's suggestion I applied heat directly to the cartridge bolt and was able to break the bolt free with 6 mm Allen key. Make sure that the Allen key is seated deep in the bolt.
3. Ensure that there is no trapped air when filling oil. Move fork tube up and down 5 times and cartridge rod 10 times or more till oil starts coming out from the cartridge rod.
4. Ohlins oil - One liter was sufficient for oil level 140 mm height.

With six threads showing on the preload adjuster the front sag was 29 mm for my weight. In a short test run the forks soaked up all the imperfections on the road and glided smoothly over end of driveway square bump.
NOTE: The front is higher than before as the sag numbers are now in the correct range for street riding.

Thanks to all!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
First, let me start off by saying that I have searched the forums and found detailed instructions and points to be aware of on installing Racetech or any other springs in forks. Great and helpful contributions by knowledgeable members!!!

I am embarking on installing Ohlins valves and Racetech springs on my 2007 919 forks.

1. What are the steps in replacing stock valves with Ohlins valves?
Start with RMB's post: 07 919 fork respring & revalve

2. Does the Shim stack that comes with Ohlins valves need to be modified in any way?
FPK105 has extra washers. I did not need to use all of them.

3. Is there a bottom out preventer valve (pardon my newbie language) or something like that on the damping rod that causes a problem? I have seen it on videos of some other bikes but couldn't find a video for a 919. If there is one how to get around it? Is there anything else to be special handled?
There is a oil lock piece which is not screwed on. It should ideally slide off. In my case it got stuck in the fork bottom after removing the cartridge bolt. I push it from bottom with a screw driver.

4. What are the torque specs for triple tree and pinch bolts?
Follow the Service manual as torques may or may not differ by different years.

5. Is red loctite or blue loctite to be used anywhere?
Per FPK105 instructions Loctite 243 on cartridge bolt and compression and rebound valves.

6. I weight 185 pounds w/o gear. What is the recommended oil height with Ohlins valves and 0.9 Kg racetech springs?
I used Oil height 140 mm as suggested by RMB. I did not have the oil level tool so I went slowly and kept measuring the height. Make sure there is no air trapped.

7. For the 2007 919 and my weight what should be the recommended preload and spacer length?
Following RMB's suggestions I used 91 mm of spacer for 15 mm of preload. My calculation was also in the neighborhood.

8. Can the stock spacer be used or does the tubing that came with racetech spring need to be cut?
Use tubing that racetech provides in the kit.
From RMB: A small pipe and tubing cutter is ideal for the work unless you have access to a lathe with a parting tool.

9. Are any special tools needed other than cartridge holder that looks like an H?
Tool that looks like an H is Race Tech Cartridge Fork Holding Tool for Twin Chamber Forks - TFHP 01. I used this and on occasion a wire to the damper rod to prevent it from falling down the tube.

A video would be a great.

I have really searched but if this information is already been posted somewhere please point me to it.

Sorry for the long post and many questions.

Thanks for the help!!!
ewmin3m likes this.

ridewell is offline  
post #31 of 32 Old 08-17-2017, 04:30 PM
Pilus Posterior
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 2,162
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridewell View Post
Upgrade is complete!!!

I am not able to update/edit my original post (or I am missing a very obvious button). Till then below is the original post updated with information from fellow members and my own experience. Following are some points that I did:
1. Before removing the forks, backed out the preload adjusters all the way. Turn the rebound needle till it is fully seated and then back it out half or one turn. The idea is to remember how much you backed out. This is to ensure that during assembly the rebound pin does not bottom out and get damaged in the process.
2. Following Islandboy's suggestion I applied heat directly to the cartridge bolt and was able to break the bolt free with 6 mm Allen key. Make sure that the Allen key is seated deep in the bolt.
3. Ensure that there is no trapped air when filling oil. Move fork tube up and down 5 times and cartridge rod 10 times or more till oil starts coming out from the cartridge rod.
4. Ohlins oil - One liter was sufficient for oil level 140 mm height.

With six threads showing on the preload adjuster the front sag was 29 mm for my weight. In a short test run the forks soaked up all the imperfections on the road and glided smoothly over end of driveway square bump.
NOTE: The front is higher than before as the sag numbers are now in the correct range for street riding.

Thanks to all!
That sounds great, we wait to hear a ride report after you've had some good seat time.

What was the total costs and what kit(s) did you get?

This was a full sprint/valve swap on 04+ forks? So you don't have more adjustability, you just have better springs and valves or does this add more adjustability?

KarlJay is offline  
post #32 of 32 Old 08-18-2017, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Rep Power: 1
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
That sounds great, we wait to hear a ride report after you've had some good seat time.

What was the total costs and what kit(s) did you get?

This was a full sprint/valve swap on 04+ forks? So you don't have more adjustability, you just have better springs and valves or does this add more adjustability?
Total cost was around $400 for parts -- $300 for Ohlins FPK105 and Ohlins oil. $100 for Racetech spring 0.9 Kg/mm FRSP S3732090. Add price for shipping per your location, loctite, grease and replacement parts (copper washer for cartridge bolt, fork cap o-ring if you need to replace it).

This was a full spring/valve swap on 07 forks. 07 forks have preload and Rebound adjustment. I found stock compression too hard and Stock springs too soft for my weight.

ridewell is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wrist Twisters forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome