How to install new turn signals. - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 36 Old 09-29-2006, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Post How to install new turn signals.

Ok, here is the long how to complete with video and pictures. I hope this helps out all the people who want to do this mod. I even purposely made a big mistake just to show you guys what not to do

Materials:

1. Iron
2. Solder
3. Wire Cutters
4. Wire Strippers
5. Shrink Wrap
6. Flat Head Screw Driver
7. Philips Head Screw Driver
8. Hex Socket
9. 10mm Socket
10. Electrical Tape
11. Hair Dryer or Candle or Heat Gun
12. Soft Cloth

1: Remove two screws on headlight. Lift up and out.

2: Disconnect headlight bulb. Pull hard because it may not come easy. Place headlight on a soft surface.

3: Place cloth on front fender.

4: Remove two hex bolts on headlight and lay it on the cloth that is on your fender. Take note of the hash mark on both the headlight bracket and the headlight itself. These will help you line it up when you're done. Also, grip it firm when you reattach it because it will move as you tighten the hex bolts.

5: Use flat head screw driver to detach the blue connecor to the right blinker (imagine you are sitting on the bike).

6: Use a 10mm socket to reach inside the turn signal bracket to remove the nut. Remove the turnsignal.


7:Lay both signals side by side. The finnished project must be at least as long as the stock signal.


8: Put the aftermarket signal in the large hole with the lockwaster and nut on the same side. Point the signal toward the rear of the bike and tighten the nut as much as possible with your fingers. Then turn the signal 180 degrees making it tight. No tools are requried to make it tight. (surprised how easy that was?)

9: Cut the aftermarket signals near the middle.

10: Strip the ends.

11: Cut the stock signals near the middle and strip the ends I cut the running wire very short so not to get confused. Be careful when removing the black plastic off the signals so you don't cut a wire by mistake.


12: Twist the light blue wire to the positive (yellow for targa) and the green wire to the negative (black for targa).

13: Put tape over the connections and plug it in for a test run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM_uQyBrDWU

14: *Important* place the shrink wrap tube over the wire before you solder it together. If you forget you'll need to cut it again. The tubes are found in any hardware store. They are much better than tape that will dry out and fall off.

15: Solder. It helps to have a friend hold it.

X : If you solder the singals off the bike (as I purposly did to show you how not to do it ) Then you won't be able to get the nut past the Honda connector.

16: Slide the tubes over the solder and hit it with a hair dryer. It will be a slower process. A heat gun is ideal but not everyone has one. A candle is also a good method if you take it easy. You can see my tube in this picture.


17: Put some electrical tape over the running light wire. I cut mine short and just left it there.

18: Do the same for the left light. Orange is the positive and should go with the yellow Targa wire. Green is the negative and goes with the black Targa wire. The running light is the orange/white and should be left alone.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNbWvy_CUiM

19: Put it back together and enjoy! Don't forget the hash marks on the headlight!

This is what it will look like.






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg5PmL2Pvzc

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post #2 of 36 Old 09-29-2006, 06:03 PM
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Nice Steve, thanx

I picked up some Butt Connectors to do mine, I still might use the OEM connectors, but I think I will just solder butt connectors in....

Troy
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post #3 of 36 Old 09-29-2006, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Can I see a pic of those butt connectors? I'm not up on the lingo.

I went with the OEM's because I didn't want to change the connector on the harness, incase I want to go back to stock.

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post #4 of 36 Old 09-29-2006, 06:18 PM
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Radio Shack

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family


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post #5 of 36 Old 09-29-2006, 11:15 PM
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What a coincidence, I just did the very same thing on my fender eliminator kit indicators on the rear last night!
I chose to use the stock plugs because of the very same reasons.
Besides, If your installing an aftermarket, fits all part, it's the right way to do it.
A helpful tool for soldering is a "Third Hand" tool. It's a metal base w/a rod, two arms and two spring loaded clips (sometimes referred to as Roach Clips) to hold the wires while you solder.
The system is fully adjustable to get just the right solder joint.
http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001212.php

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post #6 of 36 Old 09-30-2006, 05:38 AM
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A few comments...

1. If you have the correct size socket there is no need to remove the headlight shell just remove the headlight. My philosophy has always been, the fewer items to remove the better.
2. Utilize the wires from your stock blinkers. They already have the pin correct connector and color code. *Always solder and apply shrink tubing.
3. Use a piece of shrink tubing to cover the unused running light wires (blue/white stripe and orange/white stripe). The shrink tubing should be about 1/4" longer that the metal tip of the connector. Heat the tubing real good then pinch the tubing end with a needle nose pliers to seal it. Done...
4. ALWAYS test the new blinkers before you put everything back together. **This is the most important step when doing any electrical related projects.

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post #7 of 36 Old 09-30-2006, 06:13 AM
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Do any of the aftermarket turnsignals retain the running lights, or do all of them? Looks good SSS!

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post #8 of 36 Old 09-30-2006, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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I've looked far and wide and every set I found was two wires. There is a gizmo you can buy to turn the two wire singnal into a running light but it was like $50.

The way I see it is if you can't see my headlight then you won't see my turnsignal running lights. I'd like to still have the lights but I guess it's a chance I'm willing to take.

I agree that the less things you need to take off the better but I wasn't able to get my socket wrench in there without removing the shell. It's just two hex bolts so it was no big deal really.

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post #9 of 36 Old 06-22-2008, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67GTONUT View Post
Not to be picky, but those are "bullet" style connectors. "butt" type connectors don't disconnect, they just crimp one wire on each side of the connector.

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post #10 of 36 Old 06-24-2008, 04:41 PM
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While I had the VTR-1000 ('06), I wanted to replace the standard indicators with LED's, but the only ones I could find were those tiny squinty little bullet shaped ones which, in my opinion look a little silly. I saw some replacement bulbs in a local electrical store a while later,, just the standard shaped bayonet bulb with about 15 LED's in them and thought that would be just what I am after, so I bought a box of them along with the flasher relay for LED indicators. The indicators on the 06 VTR are exactly the same as my 919 only, instead of the bulbs facing north/south, they faced east/west and since the LED's are all focussed, that meant the beam was more aimed in the direction on the bulb placement which was east/west... Dammmm it... This meant that not much light actually went to the front or the rear of the bike, leaving a dull glow inside the indicators,, so I shelved the LED bulbs and stuck with the standard ones...

When I bought the 919, I noticed the indicators being the same only the bulbs faced north/south, so I quickly ripped off one of the lenses and once I found those long lost LED bulbs ( which took forever), I stuck a couple in on both the right hand front and rear indicators and was about to wire in the relay when I decided to try them out as they were. Of course they blinked about 4 times faster but I soon saw they just weren't as effective as the standard bulbs. They were plenty bright enough but the bright light seemed to just go straight through the orange lens without lighting the lens up that much. It seemed more like a small intense light in the middle of the lens from behind,, nett result, it just didn't look as effective. The standard type bulb seems to light up the entire lens making it more visible from way behind. I turned on the indicators and walked way back to view from several distances and yes, the LED ones weren't as noticable the further back I went,, so it was back the standard...

A friend has some of those little bullet type LED indicators in his bike and from behind, you can hardly see them blinking in the daylight...

SAFETY before LOOKS...!!!

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post #11 of 36 Old 06-25-2008, 05:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CeeBee919 View Post
you can hardly see them blinking in the daylight...

hand signals in the daytime? the clear alternatives rear also sucks badly in the day

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post #12 of 36 Old 06-25-2008, 06:24 AM
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..... and for the record....... I have those blinkers that SSS has.... got them right after him.... they are NOT LED's....... those are regular bulbs and are plenty bright...

and yes....... the CA tailight sucks during the day....... ripped that thing out after a year, and installed the stock tailight back in, and installed those blinkers in the rear..

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post #13 of 36 Old 06-25-2008, 09:25 AM
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Great write up. I'm sure there will be many guys thanking you in the future.

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post #14 of 36 Old 08-11-2008, 03:17 PM
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I'm new around here (having even taken posession of my 919 yet), but I've been reading everything I can about the 919. I happened across this thread and noticed the question about replacement turn signals maintaining their running light capability. I had the same concerns with my 99 Nighthawk 750 and I install the Lockhart Phillips Short Stalk III dual filament signals on the front and single on the rear. Retained full running light capability without having to do any fancy wiring.

http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...brand=lockhart

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post #15 of 36 Old 02-19-2009, 12:00 PM
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I would say thanks. but there are two things in the inside of the headlight that fell out. they are what are used to mount the headlight to the mount. I cannot get my headlight torn all the way apart, I am getting more and more mad as I work on it. Any tips would be appreciated

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post #16 of 36 Old 02-19-2009, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05superblackz View Post
I would say thanks. but there are two things in the inside of the headlight that fell out. they are what are used to mount the headlight to the mount. I cannot get my headlight torn all the way apart, I am getting more and more mad as I work on it. Any tips would be appreciated
I had the same issue with mine. Once you get the headlight out, my suggestion is to use some double stick tape (strongest you can find) and double stick those on the inside of the headlight shell. Makes it a lot less frustrating the next time you need to mess with it. I thought I had broken something when this happened to me.

2003 Honda 919 - flapper mod, Clear Alternatives Smoke Tailight w/ integral turn signals, Stebel Nautilus air horn, DIY fender eliminator, LED license plate bolts, LED front turn signals, no resistor or new flasher so I blink like crazy.
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post #17 of 36 Old 02-19-2009, 12:21 PM
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So did I, I finally got it all torn apart and I like the double sided tape idea. Thanks for the advice

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post #18 of 36 Old 05-15-2009, 07:49 PM
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What happened to the pictures at the beginning of this post?? I really need them to help with turn signal change-out.

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post #19 of 36 Old 05-16-2009, 06:27 PM
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bump!

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post #20 of 36 Old 05-17-2009, 08:23 AM
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I wish I had read this thread before I did my installation. It would have saved me a few hours in installation time.

I noticed some comments about the brightness of LED turn signals, and I have noticed the same thing - they are not terribly bright.

I recently installed Watsen Design's new MicroAlloy turn signals and they are much brighter. They are very small, yet are about as bright as the OEM turn signals. They are very nice on the 919!
WT's other thread

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post #21 of 36 Old 09-08-2010, 09:12 PM
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Alrighty, I know my way around a wrench pretty well and wth.....I cannot get a 10mm socket in the blinker mount to get the stock blinker off????? What am I doing wrong????

Thanks

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post #22 of 36 Old 09-08-2010, 10:33 PM
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i think i ended up using an open end wrench and stickin it in there sideways, or using some vice grips.

also i will like to note that if your having probs with LED turn signals being not bright enough to be seen from the side... aka too directional. File off the top of the led so that its flat and you get rid of the hemisphere dome lense that makes the light beam more narrow. By getting rid of the hemisphere you increase the light projection angle quite a bit and get what looks to be much brighter blinkers.

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post #23 of 36 Old 09-09-2010, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamZ View Post
Alrighty, I know my way around a wrench pretty well and wth.....I cannot get a 10mm socket in the blinker mount to get the stock blinker off????? What am I doing wrong????

Thanks
If you are talking about the front, you need to remove the headlight first.

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post #24 of 36 Old 09-09-2010, 08:58 AM
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Right, I did remove the headlight, but the blinker mount has the metal casing around it and my sockets do not fit in there to get the 10mm bolt out. I will try your wrench sides was trick and see if that works...... Thanks

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post #25 of 36 Old 09-09-2010, 02:35 PM
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Okay. Just have to start with the small stuff. I just thought of something. Are you using 3/8" drive sockets? I bet they won't fit. I used 1/4" drive. It fits.

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post #26 of 36 Old 09-09-2010, 06:03 PM
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Thank you sir!

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post #27 of 36 Old 03-20-2011, 02:34 AM
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Super Sneaky Steve,
Your thread and videos on installing front turn signals and the rear integrated tail light were very helpful and certainly enabled me to go where I would never have gone before. Good on you for take the time to video, photograph and write out how to do these modifications, it gave me the confidence to do it too. I hope you see this message some day

Cheers

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post #28 of 36 Old 03-20-2011, 06:06 PM
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use these. all you gotta do is strip the two wires, insert, and use your heat gun/ hair dryer to solder the two. I love these things. Nice and slim too.




and if you later need to tap into your turn signal circuit for things like LED mirrors (very nice!) use this so you can t tap the wire w/o stripping it, and you can use the terminal disconnects (remember this from installing a power commander?)


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post #29 of 36 Old 03-21-2011, 03:27 PM
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my 919 didnt have the connectors like its shown. it was just the "bullet" connectors or whatever they're called. The BikeMaster LED turnsignals I bought had the same connectors. I just dont have the running lights anymore. I didnt even need to use the resistors like I thought I was going to.

No soldering any wires lead to a quick and easy install.


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post #30 of 36 Old 03-21-2011, 03:32 PM
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How do you like the mirrors? I have decided to go the bar-end route and am thinking about a set of CRG's, but yours would offer much more of a rear view. Are those Napolean's you have there?



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post #31 of 36 Old 03-22-2011, 12:31 AM
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shrock, get the cheap ebay ones! ~$16 for the pair! look just like crg mirrors.

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post #32 of 36 Old 03-22-2011, 01:59 AM
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I think thats what I have now. I got them from brian, so Idk.



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post #33 of 36 Old 03-22-2011, 09:31 PM
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I like the bar ends so much more than the stock ones, I'm not sure what brand they are (came with the bike). I'll try to find out though.

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post #34 of 36 Old 03-24-2011, 04:50 PM
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Did you paint your speedo cluster black or is that factory? mines chrome

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post #35 of 36 Old 03-24-2011, 04:56 PM
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02/03 were black -- 04+ where chrome. (Roughly)

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post #36 of 36 Old 03-24-2011, 05:09 PM
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They look like Napoleon bar ends. I ran them on mine for a while - good view and vibration free with a realistic view. I recommend them. Knock-offs may not be as good.

I changed to small bar-end ones like the CRG purely for the minimal look. Again great view and vibe free but the distance is distorted due to the mirror glass being slightly convex. This look further away than they really are.

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