Headlight Relay/Ignition Switch Help - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 7 Old 04-24-2010, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Question Headlight Relay/Ignition Switch Help

I'm going to try to troubleshoot my headlights tomorrow and is in need of some help. I've got dominator headlights installed a month ago and just last week they decided to not work. I've read on a thread that an additional relay needs to be added for the extra load; from this post.

I've checked the bulbs and fuse. Both look good. I ran a meter on the plug and there's no power getting to it. I'm no expert in electrical so bare with me here.

Couple of questions:
- Where does the solder usually melt off at with an overload on the light system? The blue/white wire running into the ignition switch; as in the kill switch or the starter switch? (This info from the link above provided by RobTharalson)

- Which relay are for the headlights? I couldn't find any info on the owners manual and they're not labeled. They do have numbers on top of the rubber covers...

- What else should I be looking at to try and fix this issue?

Feel free to respond in electrical terms, I'll have a buddy with a bit more knowledge on the subject helping me out tomorrow and installing the other relay. Thanks in advance!

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post #2 of 7 Old 04-24-2010, 02:11 PM
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I looked at the wiring diagram and didn't see a relay for the headlight, it looks like it's wired always on and is cut only by the hi/lo switch, possibly it is switched by the starter relay as it goes out when you start the engine. Did you check both bulbs to be sure they aren't blown( I know it's not likely)?

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post #3 of 7 Old 04-24-2010, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Both bulbs are good. I also ran a meter to the plug and it's not getting power.

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post #4 of 7 Old 04-24-2010, 03:46 PM
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Had the same problem with mine. The starter switch kills the voltage to the headlights during starting. The 2 power wires for the headlights run through that switch. After mine were installed about a month later no headlights. The wires on the switch had melted. Almost melted the starting circuit as well. I just bypassed the start switch kill for the headlights inside the housing. Adding a relay would be the best way to go. My low beams are alittle to dim. I ride with the brights on most of the time. Rarely ride @ night. When you drop the cover down and look @ the starter switch you can tell what 2 wires are the headlight wires. Can't remember what color they are though.

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post #5 of 7 Old 04-24-2010, 11:06 PM
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I really hate to tell you this, but the Dominator headlights are practically useless unless the high beams are on, so at night with oncoming traffic you will either blind all the drivers with your high beams or be practically blind using the low beams. Additionally, while I was leading a group ride I could see everyone's headlights except the bike equipped with twim Dominators. They are that bad.

In my opinion a well directed single bulb such as the stocker is infinitely preferable to the Dominators. I have had no experience with any other duals, so no opinion there.


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post #6 of 7 Old 04-25-2010, 09:13 AM
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This thread might be helpful, seems a lot of people have had problems with the headlight kill switch.


I also have the dominator headlights so that may be a common cause, but I've not had a problem in 2 years.

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post #7 of 7 Old 04-26-2010, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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The dominators didn't work well the first time I mounted them because I had the aim wrong. But once I tilted them up a bit, they look fine to me. I don't know if it's better than stock with a high-powered bulb, but definitely good enough to see at night and feel safe to ride in. I also run them with significantly brighter bulbs than stock. I just hope it's not tilted so high that I'm blinding oncoming traffic. Might have to leave the bike on and drive by the other direction one of these days to test it.

As for the headlights not working.. checking the starter switch, the blue/white wire solder for the headlights was fine. We ran a meter on it with the bulbs cold, highest reading was 4.9amp for a split second then dropped back down to 3 amps (on high beam). This was before doing the fix on the next paragraph, so we just bridged the connection with the tester. The buddy I had helping me with the testing thought this didn't warrant for a relay.

And after taking the switch completely apart , I found 1 of the two springs on the contact underneath the switch got stuck. I put in a drop of oil in, brushed the copper surface and exercised the spring. Headlights are back on. I'll keep an eye on it and see if that holds up.

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll update if it goes south again.

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