Handlebar installation - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-29-2010, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
Guy Nicholas
 
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Handlebar installation

I have read a few threads here about mounting new handlebars and generally they mention measuring twice (at least) before drilling holes for the grips. This may be a stupid question, but is it possible to mount them without drilling holes, by removing the bumps from the grips? I would think there would not be much force trying to move the grips and therefore it seems they would just stay put via friction. Has anyone tried this?

Regards, Guy

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-29-2010, 03:45 PM
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yes, keep reading...

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post #3 of 12 Old 01-29-2010, 04:55 PM
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-29-2010, 06:16 PM
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yeah, this ranks right up there with octane and oil. I drilled...

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-29-2010, 07:13 PM
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I wouldn't dream of NOT drilling.

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post #6 of 12 Old 01-30-2010, 12:04 AM
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50/50 here!

I drilled the throttle side and removed 90% of the nib from the left block so I did not drill that side!

The throttle block is secure, the left one will move a bit.

I say drill - note you do not need to drill very deep as the nibs are only about 2.5 - 3 mm long.

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post #7 of 12 Old 01-31-2010, 12:55 PM
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I didn't drill. No issues with anything moving.

Reasons not to drill: I have repositioned my controls at least twice. First time was shortly after I installed the new bar. After a few days of riding, I wanted it pulled back towards me a little more than the "stock" position. Second time was after my first track day. The guy who inspected my bike for safety informed me that my hands would be in a more natural position (i.e. less wrist strain) if I rotated the brake and clutch levers a little more downward. I tried it, and lo and behold, he was right. (Imagine that.)

Anyway, if you're using a bar that isn't exactly the same dimensions as the stock bar, you may need to fiddle with things before you find the proper alignment. Not exactly easy to accomplish if you drilled holes before install.

My 2c.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-31-2010, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay313 View Post
I didn't drill. No issues with anything moving.

Reasons not to drill: I have repositioned my controls at least twice. First time was shortly after I installed the new bar. After a few days of riding, I wanted it pulled back towards me a little more than the "stock" position. Second time was after my first track day. The guy who inspected my bike for safety informed me that my hands would be in a more natural position (i.e. less wrist strain) if I rotated the brake and clutch levers a little more downward. I tried it, and lo and behold, he was right. (Imagine that.)

Anyway, if you're using a bar that isn't exactly the same dimensions as the stock bar, you may need to fiddle with things before you find the proper alignment. Not exactly easy to accomplish if you drilled holes before install.

My 2c.
FYI, the holes/pins only locate the switch gear. The brake and clutch have no locator pins. You can position them however you want on the stock bars.

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-31-2010, 09:42 PM
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Yeah, technically you're right. (Which is another way of saying "you're right.") But I kind of like to keep things all in the same relationship to each other, so if I'm moving the levers, I like to rotate the switches to match. Maybe that's just me.

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post #10 of 12 Old 02-01-2010, 05:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay313 View Post
Yeah, technically you're right. (Which is another way of saying "you're right.") But I kind of like to keep things all in the same relationship to each other, so if I'm moving the levers, I like to rotate the switches to match. Maybe that's just me.
Good possibility you are right on that one.

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post #11 of 12 Old 02-01-2010, 12:07 PM
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I opted not to drill. Ididn't like the idea of drilling into an aluminium handle bar, especially if I wanted to adjust the control positioning, etc. I ground the nibs off to about 1-2mm long and then used a single layer of insulation tape for the shortened nibs to clamp on. Had no problems in the 18 months since Iv'e done it. Sure, if you REALLY want to, you can move the controls with some force.

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post #12 of 12 Old 02-01-2010, 09:21 PM
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sand down the numbs, if they move use electric tape around the handlebar for some extra grip/thicker diameter. UJM's don't have those nubs and seem to work fine,

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