Gutting and repacking the stock cans - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Gutting and repacking the stock cans

Thinking of doing something similar to what this guy has done:

DIY Race cans

Looking for some suggestions from guys with more know-how than me (which means almost all of you).

First, he doesn't really say how he chopped the end of the can off. I'm hesitant to just take a hacksaw to it. I suppose I could take it to a muffler shop and have them do it. What are my options between these extremes? Buy an angle grinder and cut-off wheel? Anything else?

Second, he doesn't say how he removed the innards. Break the welds with chisel/crowbar and hammer? Hole saw? Other ideas?

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post #2 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 10:48 AM
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Well if it was me I would secure the pipes in a vice with a towel or something wrapped around them to protect them from the vice clamps then I would use a sawzall to cut them... then you use a long screwdriver or breaker bar or whatever to pop the welds on the tubes inside.

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post #3 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 03:56 PM
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why?
debaffle them, or trade me, i have an unbaffled set





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post #4 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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I used to own an M50 cruiser that I debaffled, and the sound just didn't really work for me. Can't describe what it was, but the sound was just a little "off" to my ears. I'm going to see if I can locate some stock cans for cheap so that if it turns out badly, I can always go back to stock.

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post #5 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay313 View Post
I used to own an M50 cruiser that I debaffled, and the sound just didn't really work for me. Can't describe what it was, but the sound was just a little "off" to my ears. I'm going to see if I can locate some stock cans for cheap so that if it turns out badly, I can always go back to stock.
didja read what bill offered ???



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post #6 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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You're right. I should've at least said thanks. I do appreciate the offer, but trading would mean I'd be without the bike while the cans were in transit and then while I worked on rebuilding them. But, you do have me thinking. Maybe I should go ahead and chop up my cans. Then if I don't like them, buy a set of stockers. It's not like they're hard to locate. Half you guys got a set in the garage right now. Right?

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post #7 of 34 Old 11-24-2009, 04:48 PM
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right. i have a full system in my closet

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post #8 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 06:21 AM
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how much does it cost there when opening the stock cans?

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post #9 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 06:41 AM
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I've read thread after thread about aftermarket cans, baffling, painting, etc.. I was looking at my 919 last night and took off the smaller cone shaped stainless shield that sits forward of the can. Seemed to look a little better. Like the exhaust wasn't the focus. While the smaller piece was off, I noticed the large stainless shield that covers the whole can comes off too. And the can is black. Anyone run theirs this way? Seems like a cheap alternative to something different. BTW, mine has the 8 holes drilled in the end of the can mod that Mister Mike has listed on here. Sounds better than stock IMO.

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post #10 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nakedniner View Post
I've read thread after thread about aftermarket cans, baffling, painting, etc.. I was looking at my 919 last night and took off the smaller cone shaped stainless shield that sits forward of the can. Seemed to look a little better. Like the exhaust wasn't the focus. While the smaller piece was off, I noticed the large stainless shield that covers the whole can comes off too. And the can is black. Anyone run theirs this way? Seems like a cheap alternative to something different. BTW, mine has the 8 holes drilled in the end of the can mod that Mister Mike has listed on here. Sounds better than stock IMO.
I thought about it, but you would have to cut off the shield mount tabs. Also, it looked weird with the body being black and just the tip being polished/brushed stainless.

The debaffled or holedrilled pipes sound different, but not real good once compared to a good aftermarket set of mufflers. The Sato, MIVV, and Yoshimura pipes sound great on 919s. Debaffled cans sound like crap in comparison.

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post #11 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 07:41 AM
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those delkevic pipes are reasonably priced and according to bill they sound great..



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post #12 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 10:35 AM
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Gutting and repacking does work

Although I'll say it first - the execution that I am using is a bit ghetto.

The cans were cut open and repacked by a member of our original forum about 5 years ago. Same stuff from this message. The guy that did it thought the noise was way too loud. I bought the cans from him. They were unbelieveably loud. With some trial and error I choked down the end pipe - (that's the ghetto part) and have been using them for 5 years. I really like them now.

the link to a picture may not work - haven't tried that before...



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post #13 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Delkevic's are my measuring stick. If I can't get something done for less than half of what they cost, it wouldn't make sense. So, less than $100 is my mark.

Speaking of which, Mark has me thinking. What if I chopped the end of the stock can at the point where the end piece is welded to the cannister, repacked with perfed pipe and fiberglass, then had the end piece welded back on? The smaller opening would knock the noise down to reasonable levels, and if I wanted it louder, just get out the hole saw and make a bigger outlet. Whaddya think: genius, stupid, or crazy?

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post #14 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 12:37 PM
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You might rivet the end piece back on instead of having it welded, that way you could repack them later without having to cut the weld. I also have the Delkevic exhaust and really like them. I run with the silencers in so as not to draw to much untoward attention, but I still like the sound, it's just quieter.

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post #15 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamjayp View Post
You might rivet the end piece back on instead of having it welded, that way you could repack them later without having to cut the weld. I also have the Delkevic exhaust and really like them. I run with the silencers in so as not to draw to much untoward attention, but I still like the sound, it's just quieter.
+1

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post #16 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 07:33 PM
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I did a semi on my stock ones - cut out the rear but I used a smaller hole saw - 35 mm I think. I then wiggled and whacked to get the stock 25 mm tube out of the end - this took a while as there was not much 'wiggle' room.

I'd made up a new set of outlets using 35 mm muffler tube and welded a piece of shaped plate around it. This collar fits snug in the stock outlet. I used a curved bit of pipe so the Warrant of Fitness man could not peep down the pipe and see where it has been altered.

I actually used JB Weld to glue in the new oversize outlet - it is rock solid still after 6,000 kms!

The result - a much deeper tone but not too loud. And the extra bit of pipe extension I did purely for looks has eliminated any trace of stink!


I'm now in the process of making a new set of mufflers as a project, but that's another story .....
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post #17 of 34 Old 11-25-2009, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
I did a semi on my stock ones - cut out the rear but I used a smaller hole saw - 35 mm I think. I then wiggled and whacked to get the stock 25 mm tube out of the end - this took a while as there was not much 'wiggle' room.

I'd made up a new set of outlets using 35 mm muffler tube and welded a piece of shaped plate around it. This collar fits snug in the stock outlet. I used a curved bit of pipe so the Warrant of Fitness man could not peep down the pipe and see where it has been altered.

I actually used JB Weld to glue in the new oversize outlet - it is rock solid still after 6,000 kms!

The result - a much deeper tone but not too loud. And the extra bit of pipe extension I did purely for looks has eliminated any trace of stink!


I'm now in the process of making a new set of mufflers as a project, but that's another story .....
Nice job! Looks great!

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post #18 of 34 Old 11-26-2009, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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That's kind of what I was thinking, AlanB. I figure I'll see what the stock outlet pipe sounds like after I rebuild the insides, and if it doesn't work, I'll saw it out and insert a larger outlet as you have done. Looks great, by the way.

I don't see how you could rivet the end piece back on (instead of welding) after cutting it off. The two pieces will fit flush with no overlap for rivets. Someone educate me if I'm missing something here.

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post #19 of 34 Old 11-27-2009, 03:57 PM
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Why put all that effort into a stock can? Just get some aftermarket pipes... They'll sound and look better??

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post #20 of 34 Old 11-27-2009, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Actually, to my eye a whole bunch of the aftermarket pipes look worse, not better. I'm probably in the minority with that opinion, but it is what it is. As for the sound, I think I can get a pretty good note with the direction I'm headed. I've drilled and debaffled a set of stock cans on another bike, so I have a good idea what that sounds like. I observed another guy on a different board work through some of the issues involved in an effort similar to the DIY Race Cans project that I linked in the 1st post. I know how his turned out, so I'm confident that these will come out similarly. The only variable is exactly how loud it will be. Already heard from someone who said the 2" opening was ridiculously loud, so I know we don't need to go that far. I'm going to start with the stock 1" end pipe. If that's not the sound I want, I will drill it out and insert a 1-1/4" adapter pipe, as AllanB has done. I'm betting that's the right size, but I want to hear the smaller one before I start cutting.

When all is said and done, I'll wind up spending $80-$100 for pipes that look stock but sound like aftermarket cans that cost 3 or 4 times as much cash. Plus, I just enjoy doing weird DIY projects like this. I get a kick out of it.

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post #21 of 34 Old 11-28-2009, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Update: Tackled the job today. Turned out really well. Chopped the end of the can off with a reciprocal saw ($25 at Harbor Freight). The instructions by sweepyuk that I linked in the first post were pretty vague. I was thinking that I would have to break a bunch of welds on the plates inside. But once the end of the can was off, it was apparent that there was some kind of can-in-a-can thing going on. Grabbed the end of the outlet pipe with a pair of vice grips, and with some determined banging and tugging (kind of like going forward and reverse when you're stuck in the mud), the whole inner sleeve slipped out. Nice. Made the job much easier.

To make the new insides, I used a trick from a guy on another board. Bought a sheet of metal lath (the kind you might nail to a wall to apply stucco or plaster), cut it into a 6-in. wide section, rolled it around an umbrella stand (about 2-in. diameter tube), and rolled a package of FMF 4-stroke fiberglass packing around it. Saves having to buy an expensive perforated stainless tube. Just stuffed that into the muffler body and had a perfect fit.

The sound is perfect with the stock outlet pipe. Good low rumble at idle, not as much engine noise and high-tones as a straight debaffle job. The pipes are not ridiculously loud, either. A good sound. Pleased with the result.

Thanks, all, for your feedback and advice. I would post up pics, but they'd just look like stock exhaust pipes!

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post #22 of 34 Old 11-29-2009, 02:27 PM
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video, let us hear it!

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post #23 of 34 Old 11-29-2009, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Don't have a video camera. Well, I do, but it uses VHS tape. How old is that? Lol.

Our still camera is capable of shooting a short video, but not sure how the sound quality is. I don't really use that feature because I have a mac, and the one video I shot wouldn't play when I transferred it to the computer. Might play if I uploaded to youtube, though. Worth a try, or not?

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post #24 of 34 Old 11-29-2009, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, and for the curious, costs were:

$25 reciprocal saw (skip this if you already have one)
$20 two packages FMF 4-stroke muffler packing at Cycle Gear
$10 one sheet of metal lath Home Depot
$40 for muffler shop to weld ends back on

$95 total, $70 if you already own the saw. Not too bad.

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post #25 of 34 Old 12-02-2009, 07:16 AM
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Nice jay! Thanks for all of the info. Gives me other options.

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post #26 of 34 Old 12-02-2009, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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You betcha. I think the only thing I would do differently the second time around would be to cut the end of the can off a little farther back, like behind the tab for the heat shield. My muffler guy wasn't such a great welder, so the welds required a lot of grinding. They still could use some prettying up, but I was anxious to mount and make sure they worked before investing more time in them. I'll pull them off sometime this winter and smooth everything out. An inch farther back and it wouldn't matter how good or bad the welds were.

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post #27 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 12:32 AM
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Hi everybody! I debaffled my stock cans and I'm pretty happy with the sound,for the money spent of course. The only downside is the loud noise that rings in my ears at 2500 and 4000rpm. But I've gotten used to it and I don't mind it anymore.My question is should I remap my ECU after I've debaffled the pipes? Thanks!

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post #28 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 05:07 AM
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I didn't read through this whole thing, but I just cut the end off and pulled the innards out of a stock can last weekend. I will (providing I remember to grab my camera off my desk at work today) snap some shots and give you a write up when I get home from work.

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post #29 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 01:01 PM
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Alright, first off, you can go here and check out Bill's instructions.

So, the end of the can is kind of two pieces put together, so using a sawzall or something will get you a different result than what I did, but similar.

As you can see from the picture below I used a hack saw and cut through just the outer shell all the way around just behind the weld.


After you do that, the two parts can be pulled apart, or pried apart using a screw driver.


All of the innards are not connected to the other end of the pipe, just to the one out pipe. I wrapped the part I have in my hand below in a towel, then put it in a vice and pulled the shell of the can off of the innards before I cut the tube.


The screen is wrapped in packing, and very stiff to pull out, but as long as your can is like mine was you just have to pull really hard.

Below is a picture of the part of the back piece that buts up against the back (cut part) of the can. Everything to the left of my fingernail is outside, everything else is inside.


The long, cut tube is the one that attaches the innards to the end cap. The screen is tack welded to the cap in about 4 places, I just used a screw driver and broke the welds to get it off.


The reason I did all of this was so I could make a storage can, but I think I am going to play with a different setup now that I spend the time to figure this out.

Hope this helps.
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post #30 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 04:00 PM
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SO THATS why the stock pipes are so quite.... friggin exhaust goes all the way to one end... then back to the other then back to the end!... making 3 full passes of the length of the pipe!

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post #31 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 04:08 PM
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Good job jay, i like DIY stuff too. Glad it turned out good.

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post #32 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. It turned out pretty well. Still pleased with the result. If I had it to do all over again, I would cut behind that tab in the first pic of post #29. That way, when you weld it back together, you don't even have to worry about grinding down the welds because it's far enough back to be hidden.

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post #33 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 07:03 PM
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Live and learn, if it sounds good and you like it you got off cheap. I scored a rr pipe and a yoshi slip on from craigslist for 100 bucks and I prefer the low slung old school look anyway so that was my personal score. Looks like you had a score of equal value gotta love a little enginuity and lots of motivation.

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post #34 of 34 Old 06-12-2010, 07:30 PM
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You can pick up nice stainless muffler cores from Baron Customs. I've some lenghts from them sitting in the sahed waiting for me to finish the mufflers I've been making for a year!

They are high quality and very light (well they are 40% holes!) - they look to be a match to the cores in a set of Yoshi pipes. Two 12 inch lengths will be heaps for the 919.

2 inch is the most common on the 919 for slip-ons, you could go 2 1/2 if you want it a bit louder!

PERFORATED STAINLESS TUBING - 2" O.D. by LA Choppers - Baron Custom Accessories

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