Got fed up with my headlight probs... and vibrations. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Got fed up with my headlight probs... and vibrations.

Well i finally got fed up with my headlight problems and random vibrations from the front of the bike at the magical 4500ish rpms.

Anyways over the past OH 2 months i have had problems with my headlight going out, it was always a simple fix associated with a broken solder joint on the starter button... as the starter button cuts the headlight power when you press it.

So the first time it happened i just re-soldered it and it lasted for about 3 weeks. I then went on a ride in which i did about 15mi or so off road on a dirt trail... (yes on my 919... ppl look at me weird), and the next day a buddy and i went out for a dusk ride... mid ride just before dark headlight goes out... and i dont have a screw driver to get into the throttle housing or headlight housing

needless to say i rode home without a light invisible as fuck (buddy did ride close in front of my to be my headlight... even then i was still invisible)

So the second time around i resoldered it, and put hot glue on top in hopes that would reduce vibrations and resolve the solder breaking issue.... well yesterday it happened again, and i said EFF IT. i cut the wire clean up in the throttle housing... then down on the plug side in headlight housing i simply wired the two headlight wires together permanently, so when the key is on, the headlight is on. even when starting... tbh there is ZERO issue with this... a headlight draws 4-5amps on low beam... starter 100a + ... the extra 4amp draw isnt going to cause any starting issues and it doesnt, the bike cranks over just as quick as it always has. and i dont have to worry about being stranded without a headlight again (theres a reason why baja guys always run at least two!!!)

Anyways onto the pics.
Here is the wires to the starter switch with its broken solder joint... at this point i had cut the wire clean


Down at the plug end of the pigtail from the throttle housing i cut the two wires for the headlight, pulled the pins out of the plug, n soldered them up.


Some shrink wrap and pins back into the plug later


Walla, always on headlight... no more issues with no headlight.


ALSO while i was at it i redid the beauty ring on the headlight. the chrome ring that goes over the glass is held on by three tabs and was held in place by 3 globs of silicone.... which had all come undone. SO i ran a bead of clear rtv silicone around the front face of the headlight, and side, so there is no way that the ring could vibrate. I also put some electrical tape on the surfaces of the plastic housing where it mates with the main chrome headlight holder to get rid of vibrations. I havnt tested it yet but im sure vibrations will be gone. Also while i was at it i used a lil of the clear rtv on the surfaces that would cause vibration noise on the radiator guard.

This is the ring im talking about.

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post #2 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 07:43 PM
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Seems like a good compromise to me! Nice fix.

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post #3 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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ya i was done with it comming unsoldered... to big of a risk... i feel as if the battery cant turn over the motor and power the headlight at the same time... i have bigger issues... ie a dead battery.

But tbh i am really more impressed with the way the RTV came out on the headlight ring and rad guard, should muffel any and all vibrations...... and to think it cost me 99c for a tube of clear pro seal rtv at the dollar store!

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post #4 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 08:27 PM
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Nice job! Hope it holds up.

Have you ever done any hand modeling?

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post #5 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 08:41 PM
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i repeat, voltage drop to halogen bulbs shortens service life,
hence the interupt on starting. nice work, nice pictures.

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post #6 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 08:51 PM
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Shouldn't have any issues... If for some reason you need to preserve power in case of a weak battery or faulty charging system, just pull the fuse to shut them off.

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post #7 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 09:10 PM
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This reminds me how much the noise from my headlight area bugs the crap out of me. Great idea.

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post #8 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
Shouldn't have any issues... If for some reason you need to preserve power in case of a weak battery or faulty charging system, just pull the fuse to shut them off.
exactly, thats what i figured.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Nice job! Hope it holds up.

Have you ever done any hand modeling?
It should hold up alot better than that solder point on the starter switch... whats gonna suck is when the actual starter ones come undone!!! haha.

I do hand modeling on the side, make big bucks

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i repeat, voltage drop to halogen bulbs shortens service life,
hence the interupt on starting. nice work, nice pictures.
eh, if bmw is fine with keeping the lights on while starting (as such in the case of my dads r1200rt) then i think ill be fine pluss i have been wanting an excuse for the stock bulb to burn out so i can get a little higher wattage one!

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post #9 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 09:19 PM
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Reminds me I need to fix the vibration on my headlight ring, doesn't always do it but when it does it's annoying as heck.
BTW, what's the Aussie's name?


Dan
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post #10 of 34 Old 09-06-2011, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Reminds me I need to fix the vibration on my headlight ring, doesn't always do it but when it does it's annoying as heck.
BTW, what's the Aussie's name?
that one is buddy... the young pup (~ 4 yrs old), hes got one hell of a personality, slightly dumb ... but a pistol haha.

we also have an older aussie "T" is his name (12yrs old), mature refined, cautious and smart as hell.

Aussie's FTW!


and ya the headlight ring annoyed the hell outta me!!!

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post #11 of 34 Old 09-07-2011, 12:11 AM
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Hmmm, no headlight vibes on mine. Is it a mileage thing?

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post #12 of 34 Old 09-07-2011, 12:53 AM
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By the way, I ran some WD40 and exercised the dimmer and kill switch to clean the contacts (per Robtharlson's recommendation) to ease the spikes; check my "high been not switching off" thread (https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...off-28128.html). Never done that before but after doing so, the dominator lights are noticeably brighter. I can only imagine how much crud had built up over the years.

Could be a reason why your solders are melting off and might help you out on the brightness dept.

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post #13 of 34 Old 09-07-2011, 02:02 AM
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post #14 of 34 Old 09-07-2011, 05:23 AM
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I did a similar setup to that for a while, but not quite as permanent worked well. Then I actually bought the throttle assembly and starter assembly off of a 08 cbr 600 and installed that to fix my head light and starter issues. Works like a charm and looks great too... next item on my list is the master cylinder, I don't like the way it feels anymore.

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post #15 of 34 Old 09-07-2011, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
Hmmm, no headlight vibes on mine. Is it a mileage thing?
naw... only got 14-15k on my 919. it has to do with how you ride it.... i play alot in the higher RPMS, and do quite a bit of offroading my 919... the vibes just undo the solder points

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
By the way, I ran some WD40 and exercised the dimmer and kill switch to clean the contacts (per Robtharlson's recommendation) to ease the spikes; check my "high been not switching off" thread. Never done that before but after doing so, the dominator lights are noticeably brighter. I can only imagine how much crud had built up over the years.

Could be a reason why your solders are melting off and might help you out on the brightness dept.
hmm ill have to take a look at the high low beam switch as well and clean the contacts while im at it.

the solder point isnt melting its just cracking and vibrating off, i want to say the lil copper thing has a small hole in the center to put the wire down into... but its almost impossible to heat the copper piece up enough to do so without melting the surrounding plastic.

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post #16 of 34 Old 09-14-2014, 04:48 PM
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Did you have to cut the blue and white wire at the throttle housing or just the black and red one?

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post #17 of 34 Old 09-14-2014, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Did you have to cut the blue and white wire at the throttle housing or just the black and red one?
neither of them technically have to be cut up at the throttle housing as they are cut down in the headlight bucket to splice together.

The picture where it shows the red / black wire "cut" at the throttle housing is actually because the wire broke off of the soldering pad.

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post #18 of 34 Old 09-16-2014, 08:39 PM
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Thanks! Got my headlight running again! Appreciate the help

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post #19 of 34 Old 09-17-2014, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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not a problem glad this could be of some help!

FYI.... since i have done this.... over 3 years ago (fucking a how time flies) i have had zero issues with my headlight.

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post #20 of 34 Old 04-25-2015, 09:41 PM
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I'll be splicing tomorrow after today's shortened ride and a frustrating game of "wish I had one more hand" along with my crappy soldering iron.
At the very least, I wasn't diagnosing for hours. Didn't even need tester thanks to this site! Did buy a new headlight though..

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post #21 of 34 Old 04-26-2015, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Glad to of helped!!!

Still rockin the headlight this way... zero issues.

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post #22 of 34 Old 04-27-2015, 06:53 AM
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I just had this issue too. I ran a jumper wire from the front brake switch into the kill switch housing. I like your way better. I might change it. So far, no problems tho.

Spoiler:

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post #23 of 34 Old 08-13-2015, 09:34 AM
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could I just short out the black/red and the blue/white wires inside the starter switch?

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post #24 of 34 Old 08-13-2015, 09:43 AM
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Really, whatever works for you...
I have had zero problems since splicing.

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post #25 of 34 Old 08-13-2015, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
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Really, whatever works for you...
I have had zero problems since splicing.
I didn't realize it goes into the headlight bucket. Your method would be a lot easier, way easier.

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post #26 of 34 Old 01-14-2018, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
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... and i said EFF IT. i cut the wire clean up in the throttle housing... then down on the plug side in headlight housing i simply wired the two headlight wires together permanently, so when the key is on, the headlight is on. even when starting...
Walla, always on headlight... no more issues with no headlight.
Thanks so much for posting this!! I had the same issue. Thought it was the bulb, bought a replacement. No joy. Checked the fuses - all good. I was stumped until I found this post, opened the starter switch and found the wire had popped off just like you described. Coincidentally the replacement bulb I bought was an LED so it has way less power draw anyway. I followed your pictures and now everything works and I didn't even need to solder anything. Awesome. Thanks!

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post #27 of 34 Old 01-15-2018, 04:16 AM
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Right on schedule, every 4 years this thread gets picked up again

TBH, I'd like to have the headlight never be on unless the bike is running. Doesn't seem like it would be that hard to do.

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post #28 of 34 Old 01-16-2018, 08:04 PM
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Had my headlight turn off going about 100 mph through my favorite set of twisties under a new moon at midnight. Yep. Was fun using my cell phone camera light to get home.
Islandboy likes this.

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post #29 of 34 Old 03-14-2018, 04:17 AM
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Got my headlight fixed. Took about 10 min. Thanks OP.

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post #30 of 34 Old 08-04-2018, 07:38 PM
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Do you have to cut the wire at the starter switch, or can you just cut the wires at the plug end and twist them up like in the picture?

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post #31 of 34 Old 08-05-2018, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
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Do you have to cut the wire at the starter switch, or can you just cut the wires at the plug end and twist them up like in the picture?
I did exactly as pictured. I believe i went straight to the plug, cut the correct wires and did like he did in the picture. Easy fix

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post #32 of 34 Old 04-27-2019, 10:44 PM
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I spliced these wires together with success. Now a week later with normal commuting use, my bike will not start. Has anyone noticed any issue from doing this headlight wiring update, or can think of something I may have tweaked in the process? I spliced them within the handlebar starter housing and it seemed rather harmless. It cranks but won't turn over. The battery is new and checks out, and the pump primes like normal.

Perhaps it is coincidence on the timing, and I have an issue with fuel filter, or injectors.

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post #33 of 34 Old 07-18-2019, 04:51 AM
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So when I got my 2006 Honda 919 recently, it had an annoying vibration between 2800 rpm and 3000 rpm. I finally traced it to the headlamp vibrating in the plastic housing. I took the headlight out, and inserted a piece of foam rubber, about 1" x 1" x 6" on top of the headlamp, and squeezed in all back in the housing. Primitive, but the buzz is gone.

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post #34 of 34 Old 08-01-2019, 07:42 PM
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^^^ I've done that myself with electricians tape on the very top lip of the chrome bezel.

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