Getting used to the 919 and general tips/tricks - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Getting used to the 919 and general tips/tricks

Ok, I used to ride about 8 years ago, got the endorsement and then ended up not having much time, so I sold the bike and dropped the endorsement when I renewed (like an idiot). I have redone all the annoying tests and am endorsed again and started with a gs500e. I stepped up to a 919 earlier this week. I know quite a bit about general mechanics and know cars. I only know about bikes through fixing up the gs500. So, I would like to expand my knowledge base to get a long life out of my 919, be safer on the road, avoid stupid mistakes that will ruin a bike.

So, here are my list of questions, and I'm welcome to any other tips and tricks I may have forgot or am ignorant of to even ask:

1. Cruising RPM when able to choose like in town 35-40mph. Is it rough on the engine to keep it at around 2-3k like in a car? I currently cruise at around 4k as this is what I was told by a few bike owners, but being a car guy, I know unnecessary revs wear parts down quicker, but low revs overwork the engine if there is an increase in incline, need for acceleration, etc. What is the optimum revs as the 919 gives torque even in lower rpms? If there is torque available, does this mean the engine isn't working harder than at 4k? This is the big one.

2. From stop to go: In a car, the optimum way to do this unless racing is to let the clutch out and "almost kill the engine" and give it gas. This saves the clutch and does minimal wear to the engine internals as opposed to riding the friction zone for a smooth start -- saving the internals from excessive wear. In a bike, I've heard the friction zone is your friend, and you ride this in first gear to avoid a choppy start, engine killing, and wear on the internals (aside from torquey bikes throwing you off or pulling the wheel up unexpectedly). What is optimal on the bike?

3. Transmission noise. If you hear a noise in a car when shifting, it's bad. On my gs500e, the shifts are short, even from 1st through neutral to 2nd. On the 919, I almost have to throw the shifter into second to bypass neutral, and I usually hear a loud clunk. I do not hear this shifting from second up. From second to 1st, I also hear a clunk. I assume this is due to bypassing neutral and is normal, but is it? Also, unless I really slam upwards to get to second, I will get a slight grind but not really a grind. Sometimes I don't hit hard enough and it ends up in neutral. Normal? Sign of tranny/clutch wear/damgage? A buddy of mine said when shifting a bike, shift it like a racer: shift hard and shift fast. True?

4. Tire tread: When do you know you're ready for new ones?

5. Cornering: I know the basics. Keep steady throttle in a turn, break and downshift before if needed, and smooth acceleration out. Now, on the 919 I've gotten a scare twice now when cornering in town. I was in first both times. As I was turning, I was going a bit too fast or not leaning enough (still getting used to the 919 handling over the 500). Midway through the turn, to avoid going into the other lane, I let off the throttle (still hard to put a lot of trust into tires that have wear on them to an extent I'm not sure if new are needed). I should have just leaned more; I know. I should have been going slower until I get used to the bike; I know. But I'm trying to learn. Anyway, because I was barely on the throttle in the first place, even the slightest let-off was no throttle. The bike did the usual forward lurch due to it being in low gear and the ass end kicked out a bit. This will eventually get me into trouble. Until I get a great feel for this bike, would it be better to just corner in third for a smoother throttle? Is it a known safety thing to corner in smoother gears, or do I just need to get used to the throttle and trust the tires?

6. General maintenance: Sure, following the manual is all well and good, but what are some of those items that could need careful monitoring or change with driving style? I know if I romp on the bike, valve adjustments are generally needed sooner. I know if I ride on dirt roads more often than normal, the chain will need cleaned and regreased sooner. Are there any other types of things like this that I need to know about?

7. Engine noise: This one is tricky. Injectors tick, bikes vibrate, loose parts like pegs rattle at certain rpms due to frequency match... what is the normal sound of this engine? Mine whines like a turbine engine, the only exhaust noise I can usually hear is when I am at 3-3.5k rpm and open it up to a bit over 1/4 throttle (which sounds beautiful). I know this will be almost impossible to explain, so if anyone has a video link to one which has a good mic and clean sound, that would be great.

Sorry about the numerous long questions, but motorcycles require knowledge to be safe and alive. I'm not ashamed of ignorance, nor should you be on a bike. Lets get me safe, guys!

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post #2 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 12:55 PM
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the 919 is a very VERY easy bike to maintain and as such a very reliable bike.

Literally change your oil and filter at regular intervals (3-5kmi) and lube your chain now and again and you will be fine.

Valves on these bikes seem not to move... i ride the piss out of mine (we are talking she sees the rev limiter multiple times i get on her) and at 16k mi everything was within spec.

Any worries about riding style (crusing rpm) transmission noise and motor noise... just forget about them... ride the bike how ever you want, run around town in first gear all day or lug it in 6th... you will not hurt it.

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post #3 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 02:05 PM
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All that stuff sounds normal in my experience. As far as cornering in first, yeah it's pretty lurchy. At least my stock, non-dyno tuned bike is. I assume you were just turning onto or off of a street if you were in town. If that's it you were probably doing it a little too fast, and if you were that fast it would have been much smoother in 2nd. There is a 90 degree turn in my neighborhood I take in second because 1st is way too lurchy. You could always slip the clutch to keep the power smooth in first too I guess.

Are the wear bars showing on the tires? Are they flat spotted? If so I'd replace them, I switched out my pilot powers because I had flat center and the wear bars were pretty close.

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post #4 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Never heard the term "wear bar". I will check them out, but I think they don't have any flat spots. Basically the back tire only has treat on the outer portion of the tire and the center looks smooth. I'll take a picture in a while when I take it out to wash later today.

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post #5 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
the 919 is a very VERY easy bike to maintain and as such a very reliable bike.

Literally change your oil and filter at regular intervals (3-5kmi) and lube your chain now and again and you will be fine.

Valves on these bikes seem not to move... i ride the piss out of mine (we are talking she sees the rev limiter multiple times i get on her) and at 16k mi everything was within spec.

Any worries about riding style (crusing rpm) transmission noise and motor noise... just forget about them... ride the bike how ever you want, run around town in first gear all day or lug it in 6th... you will not hurt it.
Even if I'm shooting to push this baby over the 80k mile target? I plan to have this bike for many years... or until I can afford a cb1000r

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post #6 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
the 919 is a very VERY easy bike to maintain and as such a very reliable bike.

Literally change your oil and filter at regular intervals (3-5kmi) and lube your chain now and again and you will be fine.

Valves on these bikes seem not to move... i ride the piss out of mine (we are talking she sees the rev limiter multiple times i get on her) and at 16k mi everything was within spec.

Any worries about riding style (crusing rpm) transmission noise and motor noise... just forget about them... ride the bike how ever you want, run around town in first gear all day or lug it in 6th... you will not hurt it.
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post #7 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 05:23 PM
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Never heard the term "wear bar". I will check them out, but I think they don't have any flat spots. Basically the back tire only has treat on the outer portion of the tire and the center looks smooth. I'll take a picture in a while when I take it out to wash later today.
wear bars are the cross sections in the tread of the tire to tell you when to change them out look like tread at a 90 to the tread in the tire if worn to or past this point time to replace them

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post #8 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 07:38 PM
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wear bars are the cross sections in the tread of the tire to tell you when to change them out look like tread at a 90 to the tread in the tire if worn to or past this point time to replace them
Yeah this, they run across the tread, and if when they are even with the top of the tread it's time to get new tires. From the sounds of it though if you have no tread in the center they are probably shot.

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post #9 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 08:06 PM
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"The bike did the usual forward lurch due to it being in low gear and the ass end kicked out a bit. This will eventually get me into trouble. Until I get a great feel for this bike, would it be better to just corner in third for a smoother throttle? Is it a known safety thing to corner in smoother gears, or do I just need to get used to the throttle........?"

A range of opinions exist on this, but one of the great benefits for me of fitting a PCIII was getting rid of the 1st-gear throttle effect you are writing about ,and smoothing out the whole experience.....

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post #10 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 08:15 PM
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Even if I'm shooting to push this baby over the 80k mile target? I plan to have this bike for many years... or until I can afford a cb1000r

Even considering i ride the piss out of my bike like stated.... i forsee no issues other than standard maintence to and past 80k miles. (the ONLY thing motor related that could go bad is the Fuel Pressure Regulator.... and it seems those wear out on bikes that sit for extended periods of time... its a 60 dollar part and easy as hell to replace and doesnt go bad often at all)

I think there have been a few members on here with over 100k mi and valves never needed to be adjusted.

Like stated these motors and general design of the bike is ROCK solid stable. It might not be the best in any aspect (handeling, power, ammenities) but be damned if you find another bike thats as solid.

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post #11 of 35 Old 05-13-2012, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w1Boy View Post
"The bike did the usual forward lurch due to it being in low gear and the ass end kicked out a bit. This will eventually get me into trouble. Until I get a great feel for this bike, would it be better to just corner in third for a smoother throttle? Is it a known safety thing to corner in smoother gears, or do I just need to get used to the throttle........?"

A range of opinions exist on this, but one of the great benefits for me of fitting a PCIII was getting rid of the 1st-gear throttle effect you are writing about ,and smoothing out the whole experience.....
I was thinking of getting a PC, but the cost is a bit high for the moment. It might also solve the hunting idle which is annoying while coasting through a parking lot or in traffic.

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post #12 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 12:19 PM
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Items 1-3 you can just scratch off your paranoia list. Just ride the piss out of it!


Besides, 919's are a dime a dozen now ( ) so even if something DID happen to the engine, it's not like it's a huge loss. And we almost NEVER have threads on here of major engine failure - the only guys' that seems to happen to are those that put a turbo kit in and juice it like crazy.

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post #13 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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They are actually pretty rare around here. There was one for sale in the early march area. I had to drive 250 miles to get the one I have now. Naked bikes aren't common here at all.

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post #14 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of the back tire. I suppose the tread its still good a it isn't close to the wear bar, but between the tread there is some dry rot.




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post #15 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 05:18 PM
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^^ Holy crap! Get a new tire ASAP, I wouldn't ride on that at all!

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post #16 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 05:25 PM
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ya that dire is doneish.

Personally id ride on it a lil longer but i dont really have issues with it sliding around.

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post #17 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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The discoloration was due just having washed the bike and not drying the tires. I was planning on swapping them out soon, but I guess I'll get that done tomorrow The dry rot was worrisome, but the sidewalls are perfect, so I didn't think too much of it. Good to know

Funny story, though. I drove about 20 miles to a buddy's house and accidentally lifted the front wheel on a fast start. First little wheelie ever. I about shat myself. There was just a small hill at the intersection, but it was enough to cause me to lift my front end with 3/4 throttle. I got to my friends house to make a call and saw the email update. I open it up and I see Rmb's post. I drove like a granny all the way home...

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post #18 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 07:04 PM
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and now you know the reason why i love the 919. wheelies are soooo fun!

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post #19 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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So are those tires shot or still ridable or is this really an "oh shit" situation?

Yeah, the wheelie was pretty cool after the fear left me. I did find myself taking it easier on the backroads that are a bit more bumpy.

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post #20 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 08:20 PM
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that tire should be replaced asap lets just put it that way.

The center on it is past the wear bars and the outsides are getting close as well.

I have ran them more bald, but i had to be careful and mindful of powerslides mid corner.

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post #21 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, buddy. I'll see what the stores have in stock tomorrow.

I've been searching around the forums, and I think I'm going to go with Michelin PR2's; however, I'm torn a bit. I do a lot of commute riding (straight up riding), but I want to get better at cornering... mostly for the confidence factor. I like to know that if I accidentally misjudge a corner and go in too fast, I wont be afraid to lean to the pegs. Will the PR2's allow this, or do they get squirrely after a certain lean angle?

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post #22 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 09:31 PM
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the road 2's are FANTASTIC tires. they were the first set of good tires i had on my 919.... they inspired SO much confidence its nutz. I switched to pilot power 2ct's only because i ride SUPER SUPER agressive... but actually just bought a new rear and ended up back with a road 2 as its more than plenty grip for me and will last longer.

go with the road 2's or 3's and you will not be disappointed one bit.

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post #23 of 35 Old 05-14-2012, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Tire Express has them for $263 for a set with free shipping. Ordering them up and hoping I don't get raped on the instal cost

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post #24 of 35 Old 05-15-2012, 01:16 PM
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Awesome. Tire Express has them for $263 for a set with free shipping. Ordering them up and hoping I don't get raped on the instal cost
Take your wheels off your bike and take them to a bike repair shop, or motorbike shop (avoid dealerships). Most will charge $10-$20 per tire to swap.

Then just use Dynabeads to balance (heck, some people don't even bother balancing, but your front tire may wear unevenly by doing so).

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Oh, and you can re-use the dyna beads, if you're careful.

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post #25 of 35 Old 05-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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if you are mechanically inclined at all and have some hand tools ans time, its not that hard to change your own tires either, and a whole lot cheaper... Ive run pilot powers, Pilot 2cts, pilot pures, and pilot road 3's, and a at one point a bridgestone bt21, the powers, 2ct and pure are way more than you need on the road, and the road 3s are friggen awesome with great wear and wet traction... I live in Fla and it rains a lot and I ride every day so that kinda matters...

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post #26 of 35 Old 05-16-2012, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'm definitely going to do the back one myself. I just got a rear swingarm stand,27mm socket, torque wrench (couldn't find my old one), some bead breaker/tire irons, and some bearing/axle grease. I'd do the front, but I just can't find any place that has decent deals on front fork stands.

Edit: I decided to do it myself because the two shops I called were going to charge hourly rate + 20/tire if they were still on the bike. They charge 40 per tire if I bring them in. 20/tire if I bought tires through them at $380 for the set (that's also with wheels off already). Basically, I am doing it myself, will have all the tools bought and paid for with tires, and it will still be at least 100 cheaper than taking it to the shop. I think I'll just charge buddies 20/wheel with it on the bike afterwards and pay for the tools through that.

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post #27 of 35 Old 05-19-2012, 07:21 PM
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Cycle Gear will usually do it for pretty cheap, around $20 or so, just bring them the old wheel/rim and the new tire. If there's a Cycle Gear anywhere close to you, I suppose I should add.

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post #28 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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There are, unfortunately, none of those near me. The best deal I could find was 30 for the rear tire that I took off and 40 for the front with it still on the bike. I ended up paying 330 for two new tires installed, which isn't horrible... especially since the dealership wanted 380 for just the tires. Now I'm having to do brake pads. Ordered some OEM from Ron Ayers today. Saw a good deal from hondapartsnation for 28/set. Unfortunately, the shipping was almost $27 for one state away ground shipping. I called them to see if they could drop the price on shipping, and they quoted me 42/set for the pads. When questioned he got jittery and said it was an internet deal only. When I brought up the shipping he tried to send me to another one of their websites and asked for my email address. I said no thanks and ordered from ron ayers. The customer service guy was a total dick. I'd avoid them as their deals are not deals and they will try to bleed you dry in other ways.

Another question, though. I've noticed that my bike will shift from 1st to 2nd decently when the bike is cold, but as soon as it warms up, I start having a few problems. Most of the time it is a really hard shift, and sometimes it is just a little harder than cold; however, sometimes it doesn't want to go into second and just hits neutral. Any ideas or normal? Do I just need to really slam it into second? Do I need different oil?

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post #29 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 09:58 AM
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Another question, though. I've noticed that my bike will shift from 1st to 2nd decently when the bike is cold, but as soon as it warms up, I start having a few problems. Most of the time it is a really hard shift, and sometimes it is just a little harder than cold; however, sometimes it doesn't want to go into second and just hits neutral. Any ideas or normal? Do I just need to really slam it into second? Do I need different oil?
you need to practice your shifting. you need to be precise, firm, and intentional in your shifting. you cannot do it half-assed, nor can you do it lazily.

try preloading your shifter before pulling in the clutch, and then shift.

also think about adjusting your shifter to give you a more solid upshift.

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post #30 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 10:22 AM
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I had issues with the shifting during my first couple months of riding the 9er as well. Pre-loading the shifter pretty much fixed it. Quick shifts and put some umph into it. I also start missing shifts after the oil is a little old, like clockwork around 3k miles or so....

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post #31 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, guys. I know my shifting needs work. I'm a bit slow on it from first to second due to the neutral being in between. I also shift slowly in the car, so it's bleeding over into my bike experience as well.

By preloading I imagine you're saying put some pressure on the shifter to the point where it is really ready to shift and then pull the clutch and shift?

Do I want to make the clutch tighter or looser in the adjustment? Doing that at the clutch handle rather than near the oil cap, yeah?

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post #32 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 11:40 AM
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Thanks, guys. I know my shifting needs work. I'm a bit slow on it from first to second due to the neutral being in between. I also shift slowly in the car, so it's bleeding over into my bike experience as well.
Yeah, just hammer on it, you're not going to break it.

Quote:
By preloading I imagine you're saying put some pressure on the shifter to the point where it is really ready to shift and then pull the clutch and shift?
Exactly. Most beneficial from 1st to 2nd, not really needed afterwards. I find I use it more when 2-upping to make it easier on the gear transition for the passenger.

Quote:
Do I want to make the clutch tighter or looser in the adjustment? Doing that at the clutch handle rather than near the oil cap, yeah?
Only need to adjust it if it isn't within reach or isn't fully engaging or disengaging. If it's doing both, no need to adjust, unless the handle isn't in the right position for your fingers.

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post #33 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I tried the preload, but the engine didn't really warm up by the time I got back. It worked well, but the real test will be when it's all warmed up. I'll check that out later today. If it still rough, I'll change the oil. Since it needed new tires and brake pads, I'm assuming the oil needs changed soon anyway. I've already almost put 2k miles on it.

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post #34 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 12:20 PM
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What kind of oil are you going to use?



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g00gl3it is offline  
post #35 of 35 Old 05-21-2012, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Huntington
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Not sure. I was definitely going to start a whole new thread devoted to just that question .

00Sanchez is offline  
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