Frame Mounts? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Frame Mounts?

Hey guys. Do these frame mounts simply bolt right on or do I have to support anything in any way aside from a stand?




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post #2 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 02:11 PM
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The swing arm pivot bolt goes through them and the engine so it is fairly involved unfortunately

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
The swing arm pivot bolt goes through them and the engine so it is fairly involved unfortunately


Bummer. Thanks Red.


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post #4 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 05:10 PM
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If you are removing one side or the other for simple replacement, it can be done without a huge issue. If it's the nut side (right?), you can just unbolt everything and pull it off. Replacement will require a bit of jiggery/pokery but no big deal. If you have to replace the bolt head side (like I did), you'll have to push it through from the nut side with a shaft of some kind to keep one side lined up when you pull the swing arm pivot bolt all the way out. Incidentally, the front axle works perfectly for this. I've read of others doing this with a long socket extension.

If you want them both off at the same time... I'll defer to Red.
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartsitarski View Post
Hey guys. Do these frame mounts simply bolt right on or do I have to support anything in any way aside from a stand?




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I'm curious, do you have a specific task that you're trying to figure out resting points for?

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robroten View Post
If you are removing one side or the other for simple replacement, it can be done without a huge issue. If it's the nut side (right?), you can just unbolt everything and pull it off. Replacement will require a bit of jiggery/pokery but no big deal. If you have to replace the bolt head side (like I did), you'll have to push it through from the nut side with a shaft of some kind to keep one side lined up when you pull the swing arm pivot bolt all the way out. Incidentally, the front axle works perfectly for this. I've read of others doing this with a long socket extension.

If you want them both off at the same time... I'll defer to Red.
Learn something new everyday. Thanks

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post #7 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robroten View Post
If you are removing one side or the other for simple replacement, it can be done without a huge issue. If it's the nut side (right?), you can just unbolt everything and pull it off. Replacement will require a bit of jiggery/pokery but no big deal. If you have to replace the bolt head side (like I did), you'll have to push it through from the nut side with a shaft of some kind to keep one side lined up when you pull the swing arm pivot bolt all the way out. Incidentally, the front axle works perfectly for this. I've read of others doing this with a long socket extension.



If you want them both off at the same time... I'll defer to Red.


Well hell, this is a little more doable. I have an extra set that I am getting powder coated and wanted to throw on. I can do one side at a time.


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post #8 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I'm curious, do you have a specific task that you're trying to figure out resting points for?


Yep. Swap for a set of black powder coated ones.


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post #9 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 07:34 PM
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Yep. Swap for a set of black powder coated ones.


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Suggested is doing both at once in such a way that none of the fasteners are seeing any vertical load during the work.
In other words lift the back of the bike to all the use suitable resting points for axle stands.

Suggested is:
LEFT REAR STAND REST: A stand up under the side stand lug of the frame.
RIGHT REAR STAND REST: A stand up to the rear engine cross tube of the frame - just a hair inside of where the side plate is.
FRONT STAND REST: Woodcraft or other triple clamp lift pin race stand. They are nice and wide, way more stable than front wheel only which results in a skinny triangle rest pattern. Added stability is by enough wood under the front wheel so the front springs are lightly loaded.

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post #10 of 12 Old 12-26-2016, 08:55 PM
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Totally doable. Hardest part is getting the swing arm pivot bolt through everything again. Be sure to grease everything up as you reassemble. It'll be easier with the rear tire off as it'll be less weight to deal with on the swing arm.

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post #11 of 12 Old 12-27-2016, 10:07 AM
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Totally doable. Hardest part is getting the swing arm pivot bolt through everything again. Be sure to grease everything up as you reassemble. It'll be easier with the rear tire off as it'll be less weight to deal with on the swing arm.
Picking up on the above post.

Suggested is use of a white lithium grease, which is more water resistant. If it becomes years later before the swingarm pin is next removed, the use of the grease will be appreciated.
Wipe grease off the threads after the pin is in place, as the torque rating is for dry threads.

Suggested is reversing the orientation of the swingarm pin when refitting it.
That way if you later want to remove the chain for whatever reason, or install an already rivitted new chain, all you have to do is pop off the left sideplate instead of having the remove the swingarm.
I can't remember whose idea this was originally, but it sure is a good one.

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post #12 of 12 Old 12-27-2016, 10:14 AM
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+1 mcromo. Thx I forgot to mention that!

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