Factory preload, rebound, '07 forks? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Factory preload, rebound, '07 forks?

Just got my used '07 forks tonight..... Swapped out the springs for .95's and dumped some RaceTech ultra slick at 130mm in them.

Anyone know what the recommended preload & rebound setting of these '07 forks are?

I only have an '02 service manual...

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post #2 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 05:04 PM
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My new '07 came with the preload all the way out, I think 4 lines on the cap, I have mine one line out from max, the rebound is 2 1/2 turns lock to lock, I think they were 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from full max. I have mine @ two turns out from full rebound and this seems to work best for my riding style.

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 05:18 PM
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Hi Guys !
How's it going tonight ?
McTavish McRomo in wintery Calgary

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post #4 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Hi Guys !
How's it going tonight ?
McTavish McRomo in wintery Calgary
Forgot to add in ........

See the attached on how to do a garage check on your front rebound.
Ideal is to have a helper who can watch from the side to observe the fork action.
If you are too short to lever the front down by being able to bend over and push on the bars, either get a bigger heavier helper, or put blocks on the floor so you are standing higher.
ALWAYS err on the lighter side as a starting point.

The page is out of Traxxion's Suspension for Mortals booklet.
This is by far the best compact booklet I have found so far.
It is an awesome booklet, and if you ever buy their 2 DVD set by the same name, buy the booklet also.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg front rebound adjust.jpg (200.0 KB, 35 views)

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post #5 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 05:33 PM
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I suggest setting the pre-load at whatever it takes to get 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" of sag. Rebound setting is somewhat dependent on fork oil weight, spring rate and your personal preference. Try setting it at halfway in the adjustment range then increase it a few clicks at a time as you test ride it. Mine seemed best at nearly max but my forks are stock. Getting the sag set front and rear is most important adjustment, then play with with any damping adjustments you have. I think you're going to really enjoy those forks!

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post #6 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 06:05 PM
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Solo or Two Man Suspension Seting Up

Everyone will tell you to do your adjustments with fully geared rider and two helpers.
Well what if you don't have two helpers, maybe just one.
What if there are some things you want to get done before your helper comes over ? Or comes out from the house ?

There IS a way.

Get a rear race stand, it should be spool type, which means adding on spools if your bike does not have one.

Lift the bike up.
Build a wooden stack that really needs hammering to get pounded under the rear tire. I use nominal 4 inch wide lumber or 6 inch if I have it.
The idea is that the stand is mostly balancing the bike and keeping it up straight, with the tire seeing most of the weight. (only to flex the rear carcass to the normal amount)
Now build a second stack the same height and get that under the front wheel. I use a race stand to lift the front, pound the wood under, then remove the stand.
I find a two high stack of nominal 2 inch think lumber is normally within 1/2 inch of what I need, always having to add and never needing less.
Now your bike is "road level" and "can't fall over".
You can do your Free Sags all by yourself.
You can do all of your other setups with just one helper.
You can do a real nice static "Jockey Check" this way too. Not as good as a coasting "Jockey Check" and not intended to replace it. Instead, if your static "Jockey Check" reveals an imbalance, don't waste your time moving to the next stage of doing a coasting "Jockey Check".

Also.
When doing Sag checks and setups, back out all of your adjusters so there is as little damping as possible.

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post #7 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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.....Think I made a mistake somewhere while doing the fork oil change.... unfortunately, I only have the '02 service manual.

So --- here's the deal...... I only have roughly half a turn of rebound on either side.... one side has a little more than the other. I'm guessing that the lock nut that the fork caps screw into is suppose to be set to a certain height?

Damn it all...... gotta pull the forks off...... anyone know what this height is? that is....assuming this is whats wrong.....

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post #8 of 14 Old 11-29-2010, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
My new '07 came with the preload all the way out, I think 4 lines on the cap, I have mine one line out from max, the rebound is 2 1/2 turns lock to lock, I think they were 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from full max. I have mine @ two turns out from full rebound and this seems to work best for my riding style.
Thanks RMB..... that is exactly the info I was looking for.

Another question for you..... does your rebound adjusters click? mine no clicky, clicky......

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post #9 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954 View Post
Thanks RMB..... that is exactly the info I was looking for.

Another question for you..... does your rebound adjusters click? mine no clicky, clicky......
No clicky here either.

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post #10 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 08:04 AM
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Arctic,

will this help? try to stay around 16 [email protected] Hope you have good eyes. You can click on it a few times to zoom in a little. It won't let me to attach any larger files.
also
i always start with 125mm of oil height and adjust later as needed.
hope it helps

Attachment 15725

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post #11 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Arctic,

will this help? try to stay around 16 [email protected] Hope you have good eyes. You can click on it a few times to zoom in a little. It won't let me to attach any larger files.
also
i always start with 125mm of oil height and adjust later as needed.
hope it helps

Attachment 15725
I recognize that list !
I can't remember if you steered me to it or if I found it too.
Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki

A real nice 7 page treatise, with the chart being on page 5.

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post #12 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaq123 View Post
Arctic,

try to stay around 16 [email protected] .


Attachment 15725
If actually valved and shimmed for such a viscosity, right ?

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post #13 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
If actually valved and shimmed for such a viscosity, right ?
yeap, showa cartridge forks are designed for that viscosity.
PVD site is full of good info. It should give you an idea on how things work. Pete put a lot of time and research into the site

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post #14 of 14 Old 11-30-2010, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Just got off the phone with Mike from Traxxion. He helped me through my no rebound adjustment precedure.

.......before tightening the fork cap lock nut.....you need to set the preload at 3 turns back from full hard.....then tighten the lock nut. This is what gives you the correct rebound adjustment range.

Funny....when I got the forks I didn't have 3 full turns of adjustment.....somewhere down the line the forks wernt set up correctly.

Was also told that the prefered fork oil was Maxima 7wt......no matter the valving, but the RaceTech UltraSlick (2.5-5wt) that I installed was perfectly fine......just 1/4-1/2 turn more of rebound needed........

Mike also mentioned that labeled weights between brands of fork oil were misleading.......that a 5wt of one brand does not equal the 5wt of another.

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