Do you have to drill holes with the Renthal Ultra Lows? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
 
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Do you have to drill holes with the Renthal Ultra Lows?

Is this a must? and if so why? Thank you...I am not that mechanically inclined..

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post #2 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 05:25 PM
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I did. At least for the throtte side. It has a metal locating pin which I couldn't get out easily. Probably just as well cause it gets a lot more twisting motion than the clutch side. I did remove the locating pin from the lighting and horn control unit but i was only plastic and ground down easily.

On the throttle unit I snugged it up on the bar where I wanted it located and then twisted it back and forth a little so it left a mark where to drill the hole.
I step drilled the hole using three increasingly larger bits till I was at the proper size.

I also cut off the metal tab on the master cylinder so I could swivel the brake line so it wasn't so kinked.

Hope this helps.

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post #3 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 06:10 PM
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Locating pin interference. The bar control shells won't close around the bar if there are no holes for the pins to sit in. I drilled the holes. You could also grind the pin away with the right tool.
If you go to 919.org, click Mods from the top, scroll down to click Renthal on the left, he mentions it there too.

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post #4 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 06:29 PM
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I hate drilling holes in bars, creates a weak spot. I know I know, the factory does it, but the do it in those steel bars that weigh a ton. I just knocked those little locating pins off. I put a drop of JB weld to keep the throttle from rolling, has worked fine for thousands of miles. My two cents.

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post #5 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 06:32 PM
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Measure twice. Drill once. If it's good enough for Honda...well.

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post #6 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 07:24 PM
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Mark and drill.......yawn no biggie.

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post #7 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 07:43 PM
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Do NOT measure the distance the holes are from the ends on the OEM bars. I did that and then the holes where wrong on the Renthals.

The OEM barend weights go under the grips like a 1/4 inch or so, so there would be an overhang. This is coming from someone who drilled twice...

2 > 4
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post #8 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 09:55 PM
 
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Drilling is seriously not a biggie. Glop some marker or paint or glue or something onto the end of the control pin and just drill at that point. It's one of the less mechanically demanding things you'll have to do to your bike.

It's not a must, but why not do it?

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post #9 of 31 Old 10-05-2007, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pegjumpflyer View Post
Mark and drill.......yawn no biggie.
Plus 1. . .

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post #10 of 31 Old 10-06-2007, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaStreetfigh View Post
Do NOT measure the distance the holes are from the ends on the OEM bars. I did that and then the holes where wrong on the Renthals.

The OEM barend weights go under the grips like a 1/4 inch or so, so there would be an overhang. This is coming from someone who drilled twice...
Good tip. I'm embarrassed to say I did the same thing.

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post #11 of 31 Old 10-06-2007, 09:46 AM
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i ain't drillin no stinkin holes in no spensive handlebars tanks.

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post #12 of 31 Old 10-06-2007, 11:46 AM
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When was the last time you ever heard of, or ever saw a handlebar that failed because it was drilled? ......never.

The idea of not drilling belongs in the same catagory as the oem centerstand will drag, hi octane = higher hp, "race" gascaps, and men have actually walked on the moon.

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post #13 of 31 Old 10-06-2007, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
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When was the last time you ever heard of, or ever saw a handlebar that failed because it was drilled? ......never.

The idea of not drilling belongs in the same catagory as the oem centerstand will drag, hi octane = higher hp, "race" gascaps, and men have actually walked on the moon.
Regardless, you should still champfer the edge af any hole you drill in aluminum with a counter sink or de-burring tool. This will help keep stress fractures from occurring.

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post #14 of 31 Old 10-06-2007, 04:22 PM
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i think someone should post pics or a vid of how to do this. i know this may be a simple mod, but some of us arent really great at engineering to make thinks work when they go wrong. $0.02

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post #15 of 31 Old 10-07-2007, 04:18 AM
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i think someone should post pics or a vid of how to do this. i know this may be a simple mod, but some of us arent really great at engineering to make thinks work when they go wrong. $0.02
Thank Mister Mike for this one! http://m51142.googlepages.com/maintenancehow-to

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post #16 of 31 Old 10-07-2007, 05:48 AM
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I ground down the pins on my 919 controls, and just wrapped a couple of rounds of black tape on the bar where the controls bolt up. Never had a problem with slippage.

When I changed the bars on my DR, did the same thing. I don't have the patience to drill holes every time I change handlebars.

-Joe
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post #17 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 01:54 AM
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i know this is a stupid question but how do you use the fitting grids on the renthal bars when putting them on. i might do this mod tomorrow.

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post #18 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
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i know this is a stupid question but how do you use the fitting grids on the renthal bars when putting them on. i might do this mod tomorrow.
Just center the grid between the clamps.

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post #19 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 06:09 AM
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The time wasted on grinding (irreverseable damage) and taping would have been better spent on marking and drilling.

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post #20 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
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The time wasted on grinding (irreverseable damage) and taping would have been better spent on marking and drilling.
Says you. The time I would have wasted drilling three different sets of bars, particularly since I did not have the proper tools and equipment to do a decent job, was the deciding factor for me.

Also, I like the flexibility it gave me to change my control positions, particularly when I changed levers. I'm not mechanically disinclined, I just didn't want to drill holes in my bars. To each his own.

-Joe
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post #21 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 08:47 AM
 
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I too ground the pins down and threw a couple rounds of tape on there to prevent slippage. I did not know what mirrors I was going to end up with and where I was going to mount them (bar ends) so I figured I would grind the pins to allow me to move the equipment around if I needed to.

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post #22 of 31 Old 10-08-2007, 12:23 PM
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Being able to move the switchgear sounds like a solution in search of a problem.

The only equipment needed is an electric drill and a punch.

The switchgear was never built with the strength needed for it to be a clamp. Hence the locater pin. As long as the pin is in the hole, your throttle housing won't move. If you clamp that thing tight, you run the risk of stripping those small screws, or as I did once long ago, the housing itself will crack. The clutch lever perch/ mirror mounting point and the front brake/ mirror mounting point are made of cast, machined aluminum with machine bolts because they were designed as a clamp.

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post #23 of 31 Old 10-09-2007, 07:00 PM
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ok, when i fall down and hurt my finger lose my cool and start yanking my bike by the throttle from out of the ditch, the rubber tape i used seemed to work fine. commit and drill all you like, i don't like filing slots in pricey bars after i change my mind about exactly where.....................

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post #24 of 31 Old 10-10-2007, 05:35 AM
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Speaking of bar end mirrors

Are the Renthals and the Stock Bars different internal diameters? Just wondering if I'll have to buy a different set of Oberons if I decide to go with the ultra lows.

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post #25 of 31 Old 10-10-2007, 05:37 AM
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Internal-yes

Outer-no

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post #26 of 31 Old 10-10-2007, 05:45 AM
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Would have guessed that the outside was the same and the inside was different. Now I just need to figure out what size(mm) Oberons to get.

Thanks.

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post #27 of 31 Old 01-29-2010, 06:25 PM
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I ground off the pins.
Then I had to use lots of contact cleaner to wash out all the aluminum from the switchgear.
Then I mounted the pods and found they were loose.
I was not happy and was feeling quite dorkish, thank goodness my old friend Dave lives so far away, he would have died laughing at me.
Anyway, some skillful application of tape on the bars took up the gap, and all is well. I also found that too much tape, or tape in the wrong place, was bad news - as in pods that would not close down and throttle dragging.
Ahh, but what would I do next time ?
Grind off the pins, clean out the grindings, and carefully tape the bars.
Over the years I have found that when I change bars, by the time I align everything the way I want, the factory location in terms of rotational position on the bar, is not precisely where I want it.

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post #28 of 31 Old 01-29-2010, 06:53 PM
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I drilled using a drill press. As stated above, measure twice, say a quick prayer, chug a beer and drill. Or at least it worked for me...

Or you can use the force

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post #29 of 31 Old 01-30-2010, 12:13 AM
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Drill them - if you don't your penis will shrink.

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post #30 of 31 Old 01-30-2010, 08:41 AM
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I drilled.

But then again, I'm a machinist so I suppose I couldn't help myself.

Once I mounted the bars in the clamps, I put masking tape in a couple of layers around the bars where the pins on the controls meet.

I installed the controls letting the pins ride on the tape and found the rotational position of both the bars and the controls that allowed my fingers to lie naturally on the leavers while also clearing the tank at full lock.

Then I tightened the controls as to leave an impression on the masking tape.
Dis-assemble, drill, re-assemble.

Done and done.

Oh, I also used a healthy dose of the "force"

I plan to die young, as late as possible.
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post #31 of 31 Old 01-30-2010, 09:01 AM
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I recommend drilling. My goal is to be able to return the bike to pristine stock condition if I ever want to.

Grinding locator pins off the controls is sort of sacrilegious IMO. But that's just me. Your bike.

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