DIY Tutorial: Bafflectomy Honda 919... - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation DIY Tutorial: Bafflectomy Honda 919...

I'm creating this thread as a walk through for those of you that would like to perform a "Bafflectomy" on your Honda 919. It is a very straight forward and simple modification that opens the exhaust note up as well as give the rider a better "feel" for the bike due to the restrictive nature of the stock exhaust with baffles.

*BEWARE* This modification is irreversible, if you mess up, you're on your own!

To start, you're going to need several tools:

-1 1/4" Bi-Metal Hole Saw

-2 1/8" Bi-Metal Hole Saw

-Power Drill

-12mm socket

-Phillips head screwdriver

-A long 8-12" ~ 1" diameter bar or tube (for breaking the welds on the baffle)

-Vacuum/Telescoping Magnet

-A beer.


So now you have your tools, let's begin tearing the bike apart!

First off, I recommend (although not necessary) to remove the seat and tail from the bike. The seat, just remove as normal.

The tail, you must first remove two push clips located at the front of the tail section:



Next, remove the two 12mm bolts located the the back of the tail section:



Once these two bolts and two clips are removed, you can slowly slide the tail section from the frame of the bike. Be aware, the tail light is still connected so you will have to unclip the connectors for that.

When all is done, it should look like this:



Next step, get your power drill out and attach the 1 1/4" hole saw:



Using the 1 1/4" hole saw, you are going to SLOWLY drill around the exhaust at this location:



This will be the result:



Now, using the 2 1/8" hole saw, you will repeat the process for the outer portion of the exhaust cap. Once finished, it will look like this:



Notice the "washer" that was left over? Use a small telescoping magnet or needle nose pliers and remove that:



Also, clean up any metal dust created by the drilling. I used a magnet, but a shop vac with a smaller hole would work as well.

Both exhausts with "washer" piece removed:



Next, we need to break the welds on the baffle pipe. To do this, I recommend getting a long bar or pipe and inserting it into the pipe itself. This is so you can move the pipe back and forth, softening the welds and allowing them to easily break.

I used an old pair of channel locks:



Both pipes removed:



The result of removing the baffle pipe and exhaust caps:





Also, make sure to spray some high temp engine paint (black) on the section of exhaust that you drilled out, to stop any rust from forming and give a nice clean look.

With the tail section back on:



Andddd...CONGRATULATIONS!! You just performed your first bafflectomy. You'll notice a grumble at idle, and a nice exhaust note at peak RPMs. Not too bad for a free modification!

If you have any questions, or comments feel free to PM me.

Thanks guys,

Chris

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post #2 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Also, here is a video of the finished product that I recorded. Watch it in 720p for full effect:

Honda CB919 Hornet Bafflectomy - YouTube

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post #3 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 03:58 PM
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Excellent thread moto. Very well done!

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post #4 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 04:11 PM
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Thanks for the tutorial. Quick question though- what exactly do you paint at the end?

Also, why do you bother taking the seat off?

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post #5 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't want any metal to scratch the clear/etc. I'm just very particular about that stuff.

As for painting, when you drill the larger diameter hole, what's left around the edge of the exhaust is rough and somewhat of an eye sore. I filed the edges smooth and then painted the edges to prevent any rust in the future.

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post #6 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 04:58 PM
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Nice tutorial! Wish this would have been here when I did mine!

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post #7 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 05:11 PM
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Would the bars be the renthal ULs?

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post #8 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Yes sir, they are. I really do like them over the stock handlebars.

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post #9 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 05:25 PM
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They look good from the rear of the bike. I would love to see a comarrison pic of someone sitting on the bike stock and then ULs. Profile of the riding posture.
Wink Wink..

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post #10 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 05:25 PM
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Much appreciated!!

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post #11 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 05:49 PM
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Nice write up!

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post #12 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 08:18 PM
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Thanks for posting this. Much appreciated!

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post #13 of 61 Old 03-18-2012, 08:58 PM
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Thank u for the write up! Gives me more confidence to do this soon.

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post #14 of 61 Old 03-19-2012, 07:10 PM
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moto i really appreciate the thread dude...just finished and i have to say the biggest feat wasnt breaking the welds .it was forcing the baffles outta there socket. the welds deformed the part of the baffles that were behind the weld and kept em from easily sliding out like i assumed would happen. nothing some locking vice grips and a hammer couldnt fix. badass read man. to all who plan on performing this mod i suggest two locking pliers (one to clamp to the baffle and the other to clamp to the first clamp for hammering leverage)...hammer until those restrictive shyts are out.

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post #15 of 61 Old 05-19-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XxBAOxX View Post
moto i really appreciate the thread dude...just finished and i have to say the biggest feat wasnt breaking the welds .it was forcing the baffles outta there socket. the welds deformed the part of the baffles that were behind the weld and kept em from easily sliding out like i assumed would happen.
This is the issue I ran into as well, so I'm glad it's not just me! I ended up using a long flathead screwdriver as a chisel to open up the hole a little more so I could get the baffles out. Everything else pretty much went as expected, so thanks for this guide!

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post #16 of 61 Old 05-19-2012, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I'm glad this was of use for many. I just wanted to help out the community

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post #17 of 61 Old 05-23-2012, 06:01 PM
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Why use the 1 1/4 first could you just use the 2 1/8 ?
Great thread going to do it soon now. Thanks

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post #18 of 61 Old 05-23-2012, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishernuts View Post
Why use the 1 1/4 first could you just use the 2 1/8 ?
Great thread going to do it soon now. Thanks
You need the space to wiggle the inner pipe around and snap the welds. I also had the problem with getting the tubes out, just clamped a vice grips on the pipe and gently pry'd it out.

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post #19 of 61 Old 05-24-2012, 06:51 AM
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Excellent write-up! I would add one thing however, when using the hole saws keep em cool and lubricated with WD-40, it not only keeps things running smoothly but also adds some cool smoke tendrils but the aromatherapy factor is AWESOME




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post #20 of 61 Old 05-31-2012, 05:16 PM
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Bafflectomy complete

I just finished the bafflectomy it was very easy. I bought holes saws from homedepot (milwaukee brand bi-metal) not the best but got the job done. I want to thank Moto I could not have done it without you. Wish I could buy you a beer. Thanks again.

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post #21 of 61 Old 06-11-2012, 09:37 AM
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Pre-Surgery Questions

Planning to do this mod in the coming days. Just wondering, are there any downsides? What was the design purpose for the original baffle? Is it mainly an emissions reduction thing? Also, does the bafflectomy change the air flow enough that I'm going to have to remap? Thanks for this write up! Very helpful!
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post #22 of 61 Old 06-11-2012, 02:06 PM
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The only downside for me is the rumble at highway speed. It hurts your ears! I have yoshi race exhaust (not street legal) shhhh! The debaffled cans sound very similar to the yoshi at low speeds but the air doesn't seem to exit as clean with the debaffled cans.

I would try to acquire a second set to cut up and save the oem cans for your long trips.

Just my 2 cents.

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post #23 of 61 Old 07-07-2012, 07:14 PM
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Just performed this and had a heck of a time. I too used Milwaukee hole saws and while the 1-1/4 was able to do both sides, the 2-1/8 was so dull by the second side that it wouldn't make it through. I had already been to HD twice (to get saws and then exchange the arbor because I got the wrong size) so I fought through using a 11/32 bit and making multiple holes and filing out chunks.
Once I got that done and had separated the pipe at the weld I again had to fight for a long time to get the pipe out. It was my own fault for not having vice grips. Finally got it done though, just need to clean up the edges a bit more, I didn't have it in me to file anymore. Originally thought I might forgo the cleanup with the magnet and let the exhaust clear itself while running. So glad I didn't do that, a lot of filings came out on that magnet.
Lesson learned... don't try to 'get by' with what you have, buy the right tools. (although the hole saws were all they had). Oh, and I haven't gone for a ride yet, but I like the note at idle. Thanks for the write-up!

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post #24 of 61 Old 07-21-2012, 11:06 PM
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I'm eager to get it done soon. Wonderful walk-through. One question though, when looking at the pic of the de-baffled can; why are there 3 holes where the welds break and which one does the pipe actually come from? Regardless, it doesn't change anything I was just curious. Ok... Two questions... Does anyone here regret doing theirs?

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post #25 of 61 Old 07-22-2012, 06:23 AM
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OneFunJoker, If you are willing to pay the shipping, you can have mine for $20. 2007 oem with baffles removed. No heat shields.

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post #26 of 61 Old 07-22-2012, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneFunJoker View Post
I'm eager to get it done soon. Wonderful walk-through. One question though, when looking at the pic of the de-baffled can; why are there 3 holes where the welds break and which one does the pipe actually come from? Regardless, it doesn't change anything I was just curious. Ok... Two questions... Does anyone here regret doing theirs?
What happens is that 2 of the three holes are open so exhaust goes in and circulates around the back part of the pipe as other exhaust is exiting through the much smaller connecting pipe between that plate and back part that you remove.

And I don't regret it at all! I actually have a stock-stock exhaust that I had to put on when I was painting mine (I took off the front heat shields) and I could barely hear it, which made me a sad panda.

Here's how it sits now:


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post #27 of 61 Old 07-22-2012, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariannasdaddy View Post
OneFunJoker, If you are willing to pay the shipping, you can have mine for $20. 2007 oem with baffles removed. No heat shields.
That sounds good to me, I'll pm you with the specifics soon. How much do you think shipping will be to TX?




And thanks for explaining what the 3 holes are for.... (HAHAHA)

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post #28 of 61 Old 07-30-2012, 04:00 AM
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Took me under 60 minutes, under 90 including paintjob. All thanks to Motorcrossx23's grade A tutorial. Sounds great!

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post #29 of 61 Old 09-26-2012, 11:58 PM
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Who knew you could spend an extra hour and get another one of the mid-pipes out ?

The last one is much deeper, I didn't have any tools to reach that far, nor did I really want to open up the exhaust that much (at least with not a Power Commander to adjust for the loss in backpressure).

PO of these pipes had cut out the outside ring on the baffles, I just had to cut the inside out and knock them out.

I did notice that they are usually only welded on the sides, exactly east and west, so like this:

|0|

| = Weld
0 = Pipe


So on the second one, rather than trying to pry it out, I just hammered with a long screwdriver against the sides and popped the welds. Hard part was then pulling it back through. Just had to pry the opening a bit to make room and them pull it out.
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post #30 of 61 Old 10-01-2013, 12:14 AM
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i just took my exhaust cans off. the next mod: PAIR covers. to kill the back firing of course.

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post #31 of 61 Old 01-09-2014, 05:48 PM
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Just did this mod, am I the only one who had BOTH the tubes fall into the exhaust slightly? The rough weld breaks made it impossible to get them out without a hammer and screwdriver, widening the hole at the back to give them enough room to get out.

My exhaust is still OK right?

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post #32 of 61 Old 09-26-2014, 07:13 AM
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Very nice writeup - Thanks !
I got a couple of used OEM cans on ebay and will attempt to make them sound a little better than stock....
I fear though that a full bafflectomy will make it too loud an higher RPMs....
I was thinking of just drilling a series of small (5mm) wholes into the end cap....with the thinking that i can control how much rumble I want by increasing the number or diameter of the wholes to let more gases straight out.....
Theoretically....you could then also close some of them again by using properly sized sheet metal screws and spring loaded washers.....

Would this likely work....??

Thanks,
GPW

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post #33 of 61 Old 09-28-2014, 05:35 PM
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So I tried the drilling on my 2002 919 stock pipes (will keep the ones I ordered for backup)...
I started with one small (1/8th) hole at the top of each end cap and checked the sound. Then I drilled more small holes with in a top half circle (5 on each pipe) and found that increasing the # of small holes will do virtually nothing to improve sound...

So I started opening the wholes step by step - testing it on around-the-block-rides until I reached my personal sweet spot at 5 holes in each pipe with 23/64th diameter each. I think I would have gotten very similar results with just 3 holes at the same diameter (maybe they would need to be a tad bigger to produce the same sound).

The bike now rumbles nicely at idle and makes itself heard at higher RPM without being annoying or expressing any kind of metallic screaming.

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post #34 of 61 Old 09-29-2014, 01:54 PM
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I did the pipe drill/hole thing on my VTX, ended up at 7 in each, if I recall.

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post #35 of 61 Old 10-02-2014, 08:49 AM
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Was possibly thinking about doing this mod, does anyone know if the is any performance Benefit, or could its possible hurt performance due to loss of back pressure? Thanks and great write up!

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post #36 of 61 Old 10-02-2014, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott8692 View Post
Was possibly thinking about doing this mod, does anyone know if the is any performance Benefit, or could its possible hurt performance due to loss of back pressure? Thanks and great write up!
No damage on this mod - aftermarket exhausts are even less restrictive than stock (drilled or not) and folks run those all the time without issue.

You may see some more benefit by putting on a Power Commander with a good map loaded, though.

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post #37 of 61 Old 10-02-2014, 11:17 AM
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You can spend a lot of money on fancy, schmancy exhaust on a 919, and Satos sound pretty damn good, but not all that much better than the good ol Baffelectomy.

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post #38 of 61 Old 10-02-2014, 11:50 AM
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That's good to hear. I would like to hear or even ride one with out baffles in person before I make the decision. Lol. With a pc3 would the power gain be comparable to a good exhaust with a pc3?

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post #39 of 61 Old 10-02-2014, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper View Post
You can spend a lot of money on fancy, schmancy exhaust on a 919, and Satos sound pretty damn good, but not all that much better than the good ol Baffelectomy.
I have to disagree a bit here, I had both on my bike. My Sato's were like ear nirvana. The bafflectomy (I tried both partial and full), was 'ok', but was still 'meh' after knowing what the Sato's sounded like:


Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott8692 View Post
That's good to hear. I would like to hear or even ride one with out baffles in person before I make the decision. Lol. With a pc3 would the power gain be comparable to a good exhaust with a pc3?
PC3 won't give you power gains, exhaust will. PC3 will help smooth the throttle though, and makes the riding experience MUCH better.

Here are some videos of 919's bafflectomized:

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...19+bafflectomy

Specifically, if you listen to my video above, then this one, you'll notice the bafflectomy fails to have that 'bark' of the Sato's. Best sound at 1:08 or thereabouts.


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post #40 of 61 Old 10-03-2014, 10:40 AM
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I can definitely hear the bark your talking about and how crisp the Sato`s are. I kinda like how deep the bafflectomy sounds in the same hand though lol. I know people say exhaust can gain you 2-7 hp was just curious if the bafflectomy gains any hp or tq.

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