Damping valve body stuck, help! - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-06-2015, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Damping valve body stuck, help!

Long story short. Disassembled forks. Wanted to check valves to see if they are race tech upgraded. Can't get damping valve bodies to come out bottom. Yes, the circlip is removed. Had to tap the valve body up into the cartridge to expose the clip, now can't get it to move the other way.

Is it ok to tap it out using the damping rod?
Why is this stuck? Corrosion? The oil was very dark and smelly.

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 08:30 AM
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Should be okay to push with the rod, unless it's really stuck. You might be able to thread the bolt into it and pull it out. It does fit tight, but should come out okay once you get it moving.

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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It's stuck enough that I can't pull it with the bolt. Going to have to make a puller.

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 10:44 AM
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valve body is normally pinned in the cartridge. Need to drill out.


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post #5 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 12:17 PM
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Huh. They weren't on my f4i forks, and assumed 9'er forks would be the same. Maybe not.

The USD forks I scavenged did need to be drilled.

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post #6 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdog View Post
Huh. They weren't on my f4i forks, and assumed 9'er forks would be the same. Maybe not.

The USD forks I scavenged did need to be drilled.
Showa know to pin those. That's the only thing that will keep the valve there is clip is removed, unless cartridge is bent which is unlikely

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post #7 of 10 Old 01-07-2015, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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There are no pins not peen marks

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post #8 of 10 Old 01-08-2015, 07:37 AM
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Mine slid out as long as I kept them straight. I did wedge one side, took a ton of cursing at it to get it to straighten itself out.

if you love your motorcycle, set it free.. if it comes back and hits you.. you highsided
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-08-2015, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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Got it out, wasn't pretty, took a slide hammer. I think the end of the tube had been slightly reduced diameter from being tightened in the oil lock. It did slightly shave the aluminum damper body. I cleaned it all up to remove the aluminum shavings before re-inserting. Went in tight but at least I could get it by hand with only a little tap-tap, no sledge hammer. Found that the stock valves are in there, but just wanted to be sure. I am going to put it all back together with the valves as is but with new Race Tech Springs. I have some .95's for sale. I will probably upgrade to gold valves later in the year. Is there a drop-in cartridge solution that would be easier than removing these again?

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post #10 of 10 Old 01-08-2015, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lococnc View Post
Got it out, wasn't pretty, took a slide hammer. I think the end of the tube had been slightly reduced diameter from being tightened in the oil lock. It did slightly shave the aluminum damper body. I cleaned it all up to remove the aluminum shavings before re-inserting. Went in tight but at least I could get it by hand with only a little tap-tap, no sledge hammer. Found that the stock valves are in there, but just wanted to be sure. I am going to put it all back together with the valves as is but with new Race Tech Springs. I have some .95's for sale. I will probably upgrade to gold valves later in the year. Is there a drop-in cartridge solution that would be easier than removing these again?
I'd be talking to this guy

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...rks-50953.html

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