Coolant priming question... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Coolant priming question...

I am putting my radiator back on after working on my exhaust and am running into same problem I had las time I had to remove radiator. I have a 2002 919; last time it took me quite a bit of riding and almost over heating before the coolant would finally move from reservoir to start filling radiator. How do I prime fluid into radiator without doing the same process?

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post #2 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 05:37 PM
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did you fill from cap under tank?

this might help
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ions-5308.html

'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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post #3 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 05:38 PM
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Fill the system to the brim. Leave cap off.(you need to lift the gas tank off or have a buddy hold onto it while you fill/let it idle.) start bike and watch the air bubbles flow. Just keep adding fluid. It should only take a minute. You should be pretty good there. Just fill the reservoir, go for a short ride, let it cool and double check. You may need to add a small amount after

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post #4 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewvir View Post
did you fill from cap under tank?

this might help
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ions-5308.html
My first thought too. I have changed coolant twice and filling from under the tank works great.
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post #5 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 05:53 PM
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third time

easy clean behind rad or remove header tip
-raise gas tank, slide the rad cap neck off its holding screw and let it hang
-remove bolt at top centre of rad, under steering stem
-remove nut and bolt at bottom of rad, clutch side
-pull rad slightly sideways, off it's locating dowel on opposite side
-go nuts but don't hit the tank with the bars while its raised

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post #6 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
easy clean behind rad or remove header tip
-raise gas tank, slide the rad cap neck off its holding screw and let it hang
-remove bolt at top centre of rad, under steering stem
-remove nut and bolt at bottom of rad, clutch side
-pull rad slightly sideways, off it's locating dowel on opposite side
-go nuts but don't hit the tank with the bars while its raised
That's an awesome tip. I wish you posted this a few years ago.

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post #7 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 06:05 PM
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i did sir, twice. there's no need to drain the cooling system
if you're not working on it specifically. just unmount the rad
and hold it aside with some bungies.

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post #8 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
i did sir, twice. there's no need to drain the cooling system
if you're not working on it specifically. just unmount the rad
and hold it aside with some bungies.
OK I wish I had comprehended it the first two time.

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post #9 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 06:24 PM
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yes, way back i shortened the original still
new chain by what i thought was 2 links.
have a nice scrap chain to remind me
whats a "link" look like.

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post #10 of 19 Old 03-06-2012, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devondunit View Post
I am putting my radiator back on after working on my exhaust and am running into same problem I had las time I had to remove radiator. I have a 2002 919; last time it took me quite a bit of riding and almost over heating before the coolant would finally move from reservoir to start filling radiator. How do I prime fluid into radiator without doing the same process?
like others have pointed out... thats NOT where you fill the cooling system.

You fill at the rad cap under the tank as pictured. open her up fill, start bike let her idle and fill as necessary... making sure you let it heat up enough so that the thermostat opens up (will be noticible as water will circulate past the rad cap) and fill up untill you cant fill any more.

THEN fill your resivoir tank to the upper limit.... THEN put rad cap on, THEN shut the bike off.

This will ensure that when it cools off it sucks coolant overflow tank and not air.

then once its completly cooled off open the radiator cap up, check to see if its topped off.... if not fill more.


Regardless.... the cap under the seat IS NOT the proper place to fill the rad upon emptying the cooling system.

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post #11 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok great, that helps a ton. I didn't realize there was a cap under the tank. Thanks for the advice.

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post #12 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 05:10 AM
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I flushed my system last year and a couple of good tips I got from the forum were to pour the new coolant in SSSLLLOOWWWLLLYYY. This fills the system and minimizes air pockets.

Also, if you can find a piece of rubber to make a funnel and extend the opening of the cap underneath the tank, you can burp the system without making a mess. Just make sure you got some high temp gloves on when you do this... You can subtitute the rubber funnel and use a bunch of paper towels around the opening from the outside, as opposed to inside with the rubber, to catch any overflow from burping the system. Messier, but keeps everything from getting everywhere.

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post #13 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devondunit View Post
Ok great, that helps a ton. I didn't realize there was a cap under the tank. Thanks for the advice.
im surprised there hasnt been heat related damage from your prior time,,, as the only time coolant gets sucked from the overflow tank to the radiator is a full heat cycle... where the air in the cooling system heats up, expands a bunch out throught the cap into the coolant overflow.... then when the system cools down there is a negative pressure in the radiator.... and coolant gets pulled into the radiator.

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post #14 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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I think it's because I just let it get hot then shut it down till it cooled down ; over and over till it (somehow) primes itself. I feel like a dum dum :/ but glad for the correct info.

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post #15 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devondunit View Post
I think it's because I just let it get hot then shut it down till it cooled down ; over and over till it (somehow) primes itself. I feel like a dum dum :/ but glad for the correct info.
haha its alright. just glad no damage was done before.... and thats exactly how the overflow tank works.


btw heres the factory service manual.... houses everything there is to know (for the most part) about the 919.

http://teamlosi.andrevas.net/pics/ri...ice_Manual.pdf

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post #16 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devondunit View Post
Ok great, that helps a ton. I didn't realize there was a cap under the tank. Thanks for the advice.

them honda guys are sneaky bastages

'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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post #17 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 03:42 PM
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If you've overheated multiple times, it'd be good measure to change the oil.

I don't blame Honda... their shit don't break so they gotta sneak ways for the user to break it themselves.

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post #18 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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So I filled it correctly and viola perfecto! Lol.

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post #19 of 19 Old 03-07-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devondunit View Post
So I filled it correctly and viola perfecto! Lol.
woot woot! glad to be of help.

Tho next time read that service manual!

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