connector repair - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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connector repair

how do you get the connector pins out of the plastic connectors without damaging them?
they are very small and hard to see.

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post #2 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 07:19 AM
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I used a tiny stabby device. Came in a kit of finger jabbing sumbitches. Some are squiggly, one is shaped like a question mark, but the one I used is like a small finishing nail. There is a little metal tang that's grabbing the plastic. Push it away and pull the wire out. I am wanting to say I worked the pins out from the wired side of the connector. I believe I worked more by feel than sight to locate the tab. A 3rd hand may help.

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post #3 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
how do you get the connector pins out of the plastic connectors without damaging them?
they are very small and hard to see.
Got a picture of what connector it is? I probably have a similar one at work that I could tear apart to give you an idea of how they're held in...

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post #4 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 08:52 AM
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Yeah, I used a jewelers flat-blade screwdriver, pretty dang small. You have to press against one part of the wire connector and then pull the wire out.

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post #5 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys, gonna use the third hand magnifying thingy for fly fishing lures, looking for something small enough to bend the tangs.

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post #6 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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i gotta get a smaller pry bar
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 01:40 PM
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paper clip usually works like a charm. Depending on the type of connector, pin can have two or one tab. So two or one paper clip may be needed.

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post #8 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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i trying to change over to cbr switches, got this far but can't see how i gonna get the plastic to swap over, pins got no tangs, that's the right side plugged in and working.
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 08:20 PM
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Yeah, they should have tangs on them. On that pic on the left, the tangs look like they are on top of the pins.

Sometimes they are even on the backside of the connector...so check there, too.

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post #10 of 19 Old 10-15-2014, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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yup 919 on bottom, cbr is longer/fatter, will have to crush them to fit i guess and put shrink wrap on end that will stick out. new pieces would be nice but where, there's 18 all together. don't say splice.
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post #11 of 19 Old 10-16-2014, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
yup 919 on bottom, cbr is longer/fatter, will have to crush them to fit i guess and put shrink wrap on end that will stick out. new pieces would be nice but where, there's 18 all together. don't say splice.
The right way to do it would be to crimp the correct connectors on... preferably new ones, but if you're patient and gentle you maybe could get them off and back on the new ones... That's risky though... I would not suggest crushing to fit.. that's just asking for problems... splicing is possible, you just would need to stagger the splices to make everything still fit... I guess the best I got for you is GOOD LUCK!

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post #12 of 19 Old 10-16-2014, 11:00 AM
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Frankly, when I am doing something like this I prefer to modify / splice in the socket on the main harness side of things. The reason why is if the CBR switch (or whatever) is damaged for any reason all you need to do is obtain a replacement for it and simply plug it in instead of having to splice the new unit into the plug. But that's just my preference.

That said, here are your options:

If, and that's a big if, you can find new pins that fit the 919 connector I have a crimping tool I could mail to you that is suitable for most pins of the type used by Japanese manufacturers. That's the best solution.

Lacking new pins, there are still some options:
-- Cut the wires on the 919 plug and splice the switch wires to them. Start close to the plug and stagger the splices to keep the bulk down.

-- Remove the pins from the 919 plug one at a time and cut the wire as close to the pin as possible, open the rear strain relief crimp, remove the remaining insulation from it, and solder the switch pod wire to the outside of the wire crimp area of the pin. Be as economical with the solder as possible -- too much bulk and the pin will not reinsert into the plug body. I recommend coating both the wire end and pin crimp area with solder (called "tinning") first, then while holding the wire as close to the pin as possible reheating them to bond them together.

Have fun!

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post #13 of 19 Old 10-16-2014, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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i agree guys you're right, but the cbr terminals make good contact into the 919 harness, if i can get them installed in the 919 connector with some gorilla snot and shrink wrap its hopefully a one time plug and play
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-16-2014, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivit View Post
i agree guys you're right, but the cbr terminals make good contact into the 919 harness, if i can get them installed in the 919 connector with some gorilla snot and shrink wrap its hopefully a one time plug and play
If I were going that way (and I have putting 04 gauges on an 02) I would pull the other side out of their connector and use shrinkwrap to hold each pin together.

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post #15 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 07:42 PM
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FWIW I picked up this depin kit off ebay and it paid for itself last weekend when I was messing about with the harness on my Hawk. Pretty affordable and it has a tool for wide clips, narrow clips, and round pins...

mod/smart Full Pin Removal Tool Kit - (M-TOOLKIT) - Fan Pin Remover - Amazon.com

I have yet to figure out what the tool with the 4 prongs is used for... Maybe someone can educated me.

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post #16 of 19 Old 10-17-2014, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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it's for skinning the cat. i got this far, but i can operate the starter with kill switch off, is that a cbr thing?
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post #17 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 07:50 AM
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It's an old Honda thing.. My Hawk does that too. After going from the 919 back to the Hawk I had a wtf moment. No kick stand safety but it does have the clutch/neutral safety so you don't totally wreck yourself.


On side note, if you want, you can just buy new connectors, cut the wire, depin it more easily and crimp the new connectors on with the correct tool, and then repin them. The upside is you will have a chance to shorten (or lengthen wires as needed). I am in the process of doing this to my Hawk right now on the front and back end of the wiring rat's nest. You can get the connectors, crimpers, and even new wire sheathing at Vintage connections (google it).

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Saturday about halfway done: And Sunday, about 90 % done:
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post #18 of 19 Old 10-18-2014, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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new is best no bodging, the switch is newer current model from 08, still wondering if that's the way they all are?

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post #19 of 19 Old 10-19-2014, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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yes brother they all do it, crank it till the battery's dead, knock yourself out.
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