Changin' Oil - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
 
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Angry Changin' Oil

What do you guys think of AMSOIL? I've been hearin some really good stuff about it, but I generally think it's all hype. But my dealership was so confident that I would like it that they gave me a free gallon to try. I wanted to get a quick judgement by the zen masters of 9ner-dom (you know who you are) before going forth. Thanks

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post #2 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 07:28 AM
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There was a good amount of support for the Amsoil among the old Motorush gang. I use Honda GN4 10w-40 and change it about 2,000-2,500 miles. Whatever you use just be sure it doesn't say anything about "energy conserving" anywhere on the bottle and make especially sure to always use a new Honda filter every time you change the oil. Those little bastids are expensive but have been proven to have superior filtration to all the others. Here's a recent thread from the Hornet's Nest with a few more opinions:

http://p196.ezboard.com/fhornetsnest...cID=2884.topic

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post #3 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 07:38 AM
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AMSOIL can be a good oil.. very good matter of fact. Not sure what your using or what they gave you. Any more info on it?

Typically anything in a gallon jug would be something to stay away from... but I could be wrong!

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post #4 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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It's amsoil 10W-40 High Performance. It doesn't say anything about energy conservation. Have been using honda "red cap" 10-40 every 2500 or so. No probs, but if this is better, ill go for it. Yes, I always change the filter and always use honda. Thanks guys

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post #5 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 09:40 AM
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I have used a few different kind of oils and have noticed that my bike runs the same with each. It doesn't run 50 degrees cooler or have 10hp more... sorry. So far I've done Honda dino oil, Honda Syn, Mobile 20w50, Mobile 10w40 cycle oil(like $1000 an oz.), Amsoil, and that fance RT4 stuff. I change it ever 2000-3000 miles unless I beat on it more than usual, then earlier.

I bet if you took 3 top oils, closed your eyes and picked one your bike will run 10's of thousands of miles without worry. Disagree with me, but that's what I have found over the last 20,000 miles.

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post #6 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 09:59 AM
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I've used numerous oils as well. 2 years ago exclusively used Mobil 1 red cap in all of my vehicles then I switched to Shell Rotella and have noticed no difference in performance, mileage or wear. Just make sure when using a synthetic that you go with full synth and not a blend.




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post #7 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks guys. I wasn't looking for any miracle power gains. I just want to make sure it wasn't a mistake and I am looking for the best protection for my engine. I use this bike ALOT and I don't want to mess around. I don't usually buy into B.S. hype, but this was a free shot at it.

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post #8 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragdoll
I bet if you took 3 top oils, closed your eyes and picked one your bike will run 10's of thousands of miles without worry. Disagree with me, but that's what I have found over the last 20,000 miles.
I think you're prolly right Rag. The most crucial part is changing it regularly and using a good filter.

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post #9 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 10:36 AM
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Otherwise try using vegatable oil.

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post #10 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 12:32 PM
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I have tried it, burns to easy.. just kidding.. that was funny tho!

Quote:
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Otherwise try using vegatable oil.

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post #11 of 63 Old 03-22-2006, 12:43 PM
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I started using Amsoil about middle of last year. It's a good oil; better than what I was using in the Yammy before. A free gallon? that's sweet!

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post #12 of 63 Old 03-23-2006, 06:50 PM
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Not wanting to slam what others think, I actually was disappointed in Amsoil 10w40 I tried two years ago. It seemed to thin out quickly and shifts became harsh - noticable after 1500 miles - but this was in the heat of the summer. Since then I have only used Mobile 15w50 or 20w50 in the summer months and this does not happen. Amsoil 20w50 may be ok also in the summer.

A free gallon should not go to waste. Use it with no hesitation.

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post #13 of 63 Old 03-23-2006, 11:17 PM
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Hi blackbetty,

Here is an interesting resource for your research. This site goes into detail about Motorcycle Motor Oil and has some interesting facts that might help you decide. Also, here is a link about Oil Filter Alternatives for Honda Motorcycles. This site lists alternative oil filters that work on most Honda motorcycles, 919, VFR, etc.

I am currently running the Bosch 3300 on my 9er... and it's my third. It is just about the same size as an OEM 15410-MCJ-003.. so it fits nice. For me, the move to automotive oil filters has nothing to do with price.. sure. the Bosch is less than half the cost.. but the main thing for me was I can drive 1 block to Autozone on Sunday at 19:30 and get one. Contrast with the bankers hours at your Honda dealership and having to drive across town. You almost have to call ahead to get an appointment to stand at that parts counter. They should put filters and consumables out front in vending machines.

Anyway, that's my two cents.

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post #14 of 63 Old 03-24-2006, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoCycho
They should put filters and consumables out front in vending machines.

Anyway, that's my two cents.
That would be awesome! I hate trying to plan a time when I can get to the blasted dealership just because the oil is coming due for a change. I can't remember as it is.

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post #15 of 63 Old 03-24-2006, 11:50 AM
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Say for example a person is dumb and misplaced their owners manual. How frequently do most change the oil and filter and how much do you use?

post #16 of 63 Old 03-24-2006, 05:31 PM
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I use Honda GN4; got 25,230 miles on an 88, 20,201 miles on a 2001, 5,600 miles on a 2002, and about 50 hours on the dirtbike. None of these have been apart except for clutch and valve adjustment on the 88 and valve check on the 2001.
But, I just sold a 1972 CB550 Four with 119,000 miles on using GN4 and it just had normal maintenance, which did not include any top or big end work.
Oil and filter changes at 3,000 miles on all. Keeping the air filter clean/changed helps, too.
Any correct oil (viscosity, etc.) can probably do this well if changed on schedule. IMHO I would stay away from anything that causes clutch slip (some synthetics).

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post #17 of 63 Old 03-25-2006, 04:39 PM
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Well I'll be. Turns out the 919 takes the same filter as my RX-8. I have a whole case of them!

post #18 of 63 Old 03-25-2006, 05:32 PM
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Not about oil but changing it.

Make a tray out of aluim foil to put under the filter so it doesn't drain on the pipes.

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post #19 of 63 Old 03-25-2006, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
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Not about oil but changing it.

Make a tray out of aluim foil to put under the filter so it doesn't drain on the pipes.
Good idea! +1 for good old Shell Rotella 15-40. Been running it in my SV1000 and the 919. Inexpensive and seems to work great!

post #20 of 63 Old 03-26-2006, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvetree
Make a tray out of aluim foil to put under the filter so it doesn't drain on the pipes.
That's a great idea tvtree!!

I had wondered before what to use to prevent having to clean off the header after oil change.

Thanks for the tip. It's always the most practical stuff that works the best.

Guess the same principle applies to the 919!

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post #21 of 63 Old 03-26-2006, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yes, good idea. I just put a funnel between two of the header pipes below the drain plug with the catch beneath. works fine, but once i knocked the funnel over. Some smokin pipes!

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post #22 of 63 Old 09-12-2009, 11:18 PM
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I've went from using Royal Purple motorcycle 10-40 synthetic to Rotella Synthetic 5-40 to Shell Rotella 15-40. No difference in performance or clutch engagement. However the exhaust note seemed to come down a bit with the D&D with the 15-40, I would assume it has something to do with the oil weight, but that doesn't really make much sense to me.

Also the 5-40 synthetic rotella seemed to give me clutch slippage once in a blue moon.

As for oil filters... can't go wrong with Honda. But excellent alternatives would be Mobil 1 and Purolator Pure 1s.

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post #23 of 63 Old 09-13-2009, 06:52 AM
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some good info

on oil- Motorcycle Oil and Filters

on filters- Motorcycle Oil and Filters

i used to be an amsoil dealer i am inpressed with the stuff(all of it)
i'm currently using the rotella syn and WalMart SuperTech ST7317
at 3000 mi oil changes

intresting stuff about honda oil filters
oops forgot this

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

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post #24 of 63 Old 09-13-2009, 09:09 AM
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all good info, thanks





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post #25 of 63 Old 09-13-2009, 11:43 AM
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AhChoo! Sorry, lots of dust on this one.

Contact me for AMSOIL products!

www.rmbsynthetics.com

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post #26 of 63 Old 09-13-2009, 01:00 PM
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Used to use Amsoil and Mobil. Switched to Rotella and the only difference I notice is that Rotella is $19 a gallon instead of $9-$12 a quart.

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post #27 of 63 Old 09-13-2009, 03:19 PM
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im very happy with my amsoil, and continue to use it in the bike.

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post #28 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 07:23 PM
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Bringing this back, does anyone follw the owners manual and change the oil at 8,000mi intervals? I am wondering if I need to kill that old 3k mile idea and start trusting the engineers and advancements in oil.

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post #29 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 07:27 PM
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I'm Pretty sure with most of this group you will find guys changing sooner rather than later. Changing Oil is cheap insurance, not that today's oils dont last longer.

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post #30 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 07:51 PM
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I've neer known anyone to go the 8k the manual says, I think it's just a ploy to get us to blow our bikes up and buy new ones. J/k but it still amazes me when I see a sport bike with 50-60k plus on the odometer. Shoot I saw a blackbird with 75k owner said gas tires and oil is all he's done. Bikes sure have come along way in the past 30 years.

How many harleys do you see with that kind of mileage, oh wait harley owners don't have enough life left in 'em to do that kind of riding.


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post #31 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:15 PM
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Heres one for you, my FXR that I sold this fall, a kick ass bike, and this owner has plenty of life in him. I only sold it cuz I was done with it, had done all I wanted to it and was ready for a change. I like all types of bikes, and ride the piss out of all of em.



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post #32 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:19 PM
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Oh, that's the kind of bike you just wait for the oil to drip out of and top it off every 800 or so miles right?

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post #33 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
Oh, that's the kind of bike you just wait for the oil to drip out of and top it off every 800 or so miles right?




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post #34 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:35 PM
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Oh, that's the kind of bike you just wait for the oil to drip out of and top it off every 800 or so miles right?
Heck no, Redline synthetic is expensive, wouldnt want to waste it. That 113" S&S was Oil tight and put out more power at the rear wheel than your 919. 115hp and 120 lbs of torque. Post up when you get your 919 over those #'s. Not that I really care, I'm just grumpy tonight stuck home with the flu. I do like all kinds of bikes though, including HD and Buell, so I never knock other peoples rides no mater what they are.

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post #35 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:39 PM
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Heck no, Redline synthetic is expensive, wouldnt want to waste it. That 113" S&S was Oil tight and put out more power at the rear wheel than your 919. 115hp and 120 lbs of torque. Post up when you get your 919 over those #'s. Not that I really care, I'm just grumpy tonight stuck home with the flu. I do like all kinds of bikes though, including HD and Buell, so I never knock other peoples rides no mater what they are.
So you have H1N1? Doctors around here said the seasonal flu hasn't started yet so every case of 'the flu' is actually the H1N1 strain.

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post #36 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:40 PM
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So you have H1N1? Doctors around here said the seasonal flu hasn't started yet so every case of 'the flu' is actually the H1N1 strain.
do the doctors in KY actually have to go to college???



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post #37 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:41 PM
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So you have H1N1? Doctors around here said the seasonal flu hasn't started yet so every case of 'the flu' is actually the H1N1 strain.
Probable, I got tested yesterday, they can only do a quick test at the clinic, which is not official. According to that test I have it, but final word has to come back from some other lab.

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post #38 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:42 PM
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do the doctors in KY actually have to go to college???
OK, that made me laugh....

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post #39 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 08:50 PM
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well the 9er isn't making any where near 120 lbs of torque but probally close to putting down 115hp (haven't had it tuned yet so who knows what it doing). A built s&s motor that was oil tight for me would be a 1st, seriously like a unicorn or something.

I kinda grew up around harleys so I'm just bustin balls, it was always an argument amongst friends because almost everyone I knew rode those rat traps. I just prefer a superior machine.....

J/k hope ya feel better me and my girl had a nasty strand of something last week.

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post #40 of 63 Old 10-29-2009, 09:06 PM
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No prob, I'm usually not so defensive, must be combination of prescription meds and flu bugs. I stripped that bike down to the frame after I bought it from the original owner just because I wanted to do it, and rebuilt it like I wanted it. There's an old thread around here somewhere about it. I'm picky about how I build stuff, and I run pretty hard, but that bike seriously never gave me problems with anything I didnt cause myself.

I used to have a 919 they are great bikes. Ive also had a 954, and currently have a vfr 800 and a Buell Ulysses. If you got pipes, and a pc111 you might get close to 115 at the rear wheel on a generous dyno. I've seen very few on here that make it over that. Good luck getting all you can out of it though,you sound ambitious enuogh to give it a good shot.

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