Chain adjusting misfortune... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Chain adjusting misfortune...

I posted this on the backside of Robtharlson's warning about needing to lockwire (safetywire) the chain adjusters on the 919, but I had a slightly different problem. Not getting a response there, I figured nobody saw it, since there's always a reply to everything... Anyway, here's what I posted: copied and pasted, so sorry if it is a little non sequitur.

Sorry to dredge up an old thread here, but I've noticed over time with my 919 the chain continues to be a real hassle for me. The right (as viewed from the rear) adjuster is CONSTANTLY coming loose, for example: when I "preflight" my bike I touch everything, all nuts and bolts I can see, chain slack, lights etc... But as I said the right side adjuster is constantly coming loose. This makes people often ask me why I'm adjusting my chain so often, and then they go on to tell me they've got 10 bagillion miles on their chain and it's still in spec, and I shouldn't have to adjust my chain so often, etc...

Anyway, I've gone over every "chain lube and adjust" thread I can find to read, and I have come to the conclusion I'm doing something wrong. Rob says the left one should be the one to "self" adjust, and it very well may be... but if I'm noticing the right one being loose, how could the left one "tighten up?"

To cut to some sort of chase here, is there a thread on how to tighten the chain specific to the 919? I have to be doing something wrong, I've tried measuring right and left side to make it even, I even tried a "string" theory that didn't work out well. My other problem is when I think I've finally gotten the chain perfectly adjusted (meaning proper tension and sprocket in the center), the tire is clearly not aligned. When I get the tire and chain perfect, the sprocket isn't aligned. I've started just trying to "split the difference" on all these things. It's been working, but today I just couldn't take it anymore... What am I doing wrong?

Step one: loosen axle nut
step two: loosen chain by adjusting both adjusters (at first I just tightened them the same amount, but this didn't always work, I believe because of the self adjusting adjuster)
step three: tighten chain to speck
step four: verify tire/chain/sprocket alignment (this is where I can spend literally hours)
step five: tighten axle nut to proper torque
step six: re-verify everything, then check chain slack on side stand

I think I need help in the step three and four zone... If anyone has any good ideas and/or a visual how to I would love to know. Thanks.

-Adam

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post #2 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 11:29 AM
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step seven : turn both ajusters counter clock wise untill snug and done ..




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post #3 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 11:56 AM
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may seem obvious to most, but are you using a rear stand or securing the bike in an upward position?

If not you may be projecting an optical illusion of what is and is not true/straight. I struggled with proper alignment... until I got a rear stand. Your process seems correct and you should have good results, so that leaves only the obvious to be overlooked IMO.

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post #4 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 11:58 AM
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Personally I just use the hash marks on the adjusters and set it with 1" movement.

Then I get and ride



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post #5 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! I do use a swingarm stand (a pittbull) to adjust with... I think I just need to add two things, TK919's step seven, and Rob's lockwire tip. I think as far as the arduous alignment problems, this may just be my own OCD acting up. I always want it to be perfect... I also was reading about making sure it has the same movement left to center and right to center (chain to sprocket). This, in most cases, should be enough to make sure the chain isn't hitting the edges of the sprocket teeth I would think. I've read so many threads I'm not sure who's idea that was, but I'm running with it. Thanks for all the help! The answers are almost always in the searches, but I was looking everywhere and couldn't find anything, then it all started to come together. Thanks again!

PS: Here's the video I found showing TK919's step seven, along with everything else....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRBkRKDlMtA

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post #6 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 12:37 PM
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1) if the axle is tightened to spec-and the adjusters are kept loose-
the axle will move or creep forward on hard acceleration.
2) keep the axle snug when adjusting, it needs to be backed off
only enough to let the adjusters move it.

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post #7 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
Personally I just use the hash marks on the adjusters and set it with 1" movement.

Then I get and ride
i did this the first time... that waas the last time, rode like sh!t

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post #8 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 05:10 PM
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excellent video, dude has his shiznit together





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post #9 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 05:25 PM
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Sounding like a case of over thinking a process. The adjusters are there just the axle in line until you tighten the axle. Once an axle is tightened you could back the adjuster off and the axle should stay.
The adjustment marks are rarely ever true but usually close enuf to not feel like you are dog walking. I use a MotionPro line up tool that clip to the rear gear and has a 7 in pointer so you can see where the chain is aiming.
DO NOT FORGET that when you adjust your chain whether in the air or on the ground that when you sit on the bike the center sinks and the chain gets tighter. I cheat by having some other fat person (like myself) sit on the bike when I adjust it.
Flame suit on so fire away at me.............

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post #10 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 06:31 PM
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I run stock sprockets with a chain that is one link shorter than stock. I think it is now a 112. Anyway, the chain is about as short as a new chain can be, and still work. Then I adjust the chain, I back my adjusters all the way in. I then go one half turn on both sides and check. If that's not enough, and it usually isn't, I go another half turn..... and so on, until I have about an inch and a half of slack on an unladen bike; Honda center stand. I have 2, one half inch drive breaker bars with the right size 6 point sockets on them. Then I snug that axle bolt good, and call it done.

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post #11 of 13 Old 03-29-2009, 10:36 PM
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One small thing you guy's missed.
Torque the Axel, not the nut.
The nut has a tendency to lock & or bind & give a false torque.
The axle is more true.
If you want to test this, Just torque the nut while holding the Axel with a wrench, Then switch & see if it gets tighter.

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post #12 of 13 Old 03-30-2009, 12:14 AM
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bobby...i hate to sidetrack this thread, but it seems you have been having too many 'loud conversations' with the old lady... "firesuit on, fire away..." lol...

30,000 mile 919 survivor. No plans of stopping the abuse any time soon.
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post #13 of 13 Old 03-30-2009, 07:38 AM
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The only difference I see is I do it with the bike on the kickstand, I believe that what the servise manual says. I never have any problems with adjustment or alingment

2006 919 (Sold)
2011 Cb1000r

"oh no there ain't no rest for the wicked, until we close our eyes for good." - Cage The Elephant
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