Braided lines - worth every cent... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-11-2008, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Braided lines - worth every cent...

Had them on the VTR and swore black and blue they improved things 100%. Got the Hornet 900 and thought the standard brakes were better than the VTR's even with braided lines, so thought not to fit them. Changed my mind and fitted them last week. Took it out yesterday for the first ride in over a month and wow. Now the great brakes are even better. Lovely feel,, just have to touch them,, two finger braking even when it gets tough... Had a wee bit of effort fitting them as I ordered them just a little too long, 820mm, where 780 - 800mm would have been spot on. I forgot to take into consideration, the banjos and fittings. Anyone who has pulled the front wiring and cables to pieces on a Hornet knows that things fit perfectly BUT if you upset them, they all of a sudden don't fit no more. My brother had even more hassle as he has lower bars and he had to do a lot of re-routing of things in that area to get it all to fit/work properly. Throttle cable kept pinching and sticking full open but he soon fixed it with the use of a few 4 letter words...

Worth every cent they cost...

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-11-2008, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the write up. I have been looking at calling G&J and ordering some, but just never got around to it. I think im going to call them tomorrow

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
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I now sort of look at braided lines as the first serious mod you should do to your bike. So many people think of going faster with aftermarket addons but they forget that you have to stop as well. If you have never used them before, I would certainly recommend them. For heavens sake though, make sure you pressure bleed them properly.

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post #4 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 02:43 AM
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Routing brake lines isn't a tough job. I'd call it challenging. If you're picky, and you want them to look juuuust right, it's kind of like doing a puzzle. Eventually all the pieces go together. When you're done, they look better and have that high quality, rock hard feel.

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 04:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zookmor View Post
Thanks for the write up. I have been looking at calling G&J and ordering some, but just never got around to it. I think im going to call them tomorrow
Got mine last week...the guys at G&J were awesome and shipped them out the same day I called. Gonna install in the next couple of weeks.

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 04:39 AM
 
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Did anyone else have a real hard time bleeding the new lines? Took me 3x as long as it should to bleed the brakes. Is there a trick that I should have used?

Ended up using two small dixie cups and fish tank tube to get it done.

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 09:34 AM
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Just called and ordered my new lines today

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 10:49 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norvolt View Post
Did anyone else have a real hard time bleeding the new lines? Took me 3x as long as it should to bleed the brakes. Is there a trick that I should have used?

Ended up using two small dixie cups and fish tank tube to get it done.
My secret trick is a mity vac - http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

Bought mine about 10 years ago and this tool has saved me so much time - its paid for itself 4 times over !

Another trick, once you get them on and somewhat bleed down low, bleed the upper connector/where the lines come out of the master cyclinder - alot of folks over look this step and complain about mushy brakes after putting thier lines on.

Glad you like it, your right - this should be everyones first mod - what good is extra power if you cant stop as effectivly as you could !


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post #9 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 11:23 AM
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My trick for bleeding was to connect the lines firmly at the caliper and loosely at the m/c, then push the pads back into the caliper housing, thus filling the empty lines and letting the air out the top. Only a small amount of bleeding is then necessary!

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post #10 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 11:31 AM
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glad everyone is sharing their secrets. I called G&J today at like 12:30 and they just called (2:30) and said they were shipping out today.

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post #11 of 13 Old 08-12-2008, 11:48 AM
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I don't have a mighty vac but I do have kids. to get things started I used a left over medicine syringe attached to the end of the fish tank tubing and pulled pretty good suction. Once the brake fluid started to flow it's just pump, pump pump the lever until the bubbles are gone.

There's your plan and then there's God's plan.........
Your's doesn't matter.
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-13-2008, 02:18 AM
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It's not hard, Zook. I've done 4 without Mighty Vacs or syringes. It doesn't take long.

I've read that factories put rubber lines on because they intentially want to soften the feel at the lever. I think that's a load of crap. I think they go rubber cuz it's cheap.

Rubber lines are ok for the first year or so. But as time goes on they get mushier and mushier. Nothin says "Serious Rider" any better than SS brake lines.

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post #13 of 13 Old 08-13-2008, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norvolt View Post
Did anyone else have a real hard time bleeding the new lines? Took me 3x as long as it should to bleed the brakes. Is there a trick that I should have used?

Ended up using two small dixie cups and fish tank tube to get it done.
(Haven't read other replies yet)....
Syringe is undoubtedly the quickest way. Make sure it's a BIG one too and with a length (about 1 ft - 300mm of clear hose on the outlet). Once braided lines in place, make sure reservoir is empty. If you have two seperate lines, one to each caliper, fill syringe and squeeze until fluid is just about at the open end of the clear line. Open the bleed nipple on the caliper. Place the hose end on the nipple securely. Give a good fast squeeze without squirting fluid out all over the caliper and brakes etc. Tighten the nipple up, pull off the hose and re-fill the syringe... Repeat until you see the fluid just starting to appear in the reservoir (it may pay to have someone else watching the reservoir). Now Stop. This may only take one good squeeze or two at max depending on just how big your syringe is. Now do the opposite caliper the exact same way. Just be careful as the fluid may flow into the reservoir straight away on the second caliper and may over fill very quickly BE CAREFUL here...!!! Now make sure both nipples are nipped up tight.. If you did it properly, your lines from the reservoir banjo will be clear of air bubbles straight away. BUT there will still be a few tiny tiny little air bubbles at the top banjo(s), so pump that brake handle slowly and watch them all come out. They will all come out reasonably quickly then stop. DONE...!!! Do everything up tightly and give a good wipe with a rag to get rid of excess fluid which may have escaped throughout the process... After that, squeeze the brake handle many times to make sure it is quite tight to the feel. Now check for any leaks. I use toilet paper to soak up any leaky fluid as this stuff shows up fluids very easily on it. If any appears, you have to check your hoses and banjos and washers to find and seal that leak...

Now take the bike outside and hose it down proper to get rid of any fluid you never saw before. There WILL be some so don't think you can get away with it or you will ruin some paintwork on the bike...

If you have a brakeline that sees one line down to one caliper then another line that jumps from that caliper to the other, I suggest you use the exact same method from the last caliper. Just squeeze the brake fluid from this caliper until the reservoir is topped up. Make sure you apply enough pressure when you force the fluid in and you wont have to bleed the first caliper. Again once the fluid is in, squeeze out those small air bubbles at the reservoir.

If you wish to do the "ordinary way"...

Top up the reservoir. Apply a bleed hose to one of the bleed nipples on one caliper. Have someone give the brake handle a good hard squeeze. Now open the nipple. The squeezer will notice the handle go soft. Before he releases the handle, you must tighten the nipple. Now release then squeeze the handle again. Open the nipple again. Now you should see bubbles and fluid coming down the bleed hose. Tighten the nipple. Let the handle go. Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir. Keep repeating this process until you see no more air in the bleed hose.. Now do the other caliper just the same.
Sequence in short...
Top up fluid.
Squeeze brake handle.
Open nipple.
Tighten nipple.
Release handle.
Squeeze.
Open.
Tighten.
Release.
You'd be amazed at how many people get cocked up in this process and wind up sucking air back into the line...
Now pump up the brakes and hopefully it will get tighter. Watch for those small bubbles in the reservoir. Once you see no more bubbles, put the lid back on the resrvoir and wash down your bike as above. I urge you to do one more small proof bleed again after about 10 minutes with this method just to make sure,, as it is not as good as the above pressure bleed. It is still possible to get a few bubbles coming out.

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