BAH! Fuel Problem on my "new" 919 - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 45 Old 11-12-2015, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question BAH! Fuel Problem on my "new" 919

So the '04 I bought two months ago with 2800 miles on it now has 4000 and Ive run into a fuel problem probably due to the bike sitting in someones garage for 11 years.

Only engine related mod I have done is the flapper mod so...

Whats happening is the bike starts bucking when it gets low on fuel. Its gotten so bad the bike will just lose all power at cruise unless I let go of the clutch and rev the engine then leave the clutch back out.

Note that this is without the fuel warning light even going on. The idle will also dive at a red light and stall but there IS gas in the tank.

Its been getting worse so I took it to the local dealer today and they say its from all the junk in the tank and next week Im replacing the fuel filter and having them test the pressure coming from the fuel pump.

If I fill up the tank the problem is gone but I only get 120 into the trip before I have a problem again. Supposedly this thing has a 5 US gal fuel tank and when I filled up when this was happening today I only got in 3.7. So seems like a pressure/flow issue. But on the upside at least its also dangerous.

Im taking a trip this weekend but I figure Ill gas up often and get some of that fuel line cleaner crap they sell at autozone to see if it does anything.

Any advice or contrary opinions welcome.

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post #2 of 45 Old 11-12-2015, 02:52 PM
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Don't take it to the dealer.... Drain the tank and fill it with fresh fuel and add some Seafoam, and run it. I'd bet you have some water in there.

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post #3 of 45 Old 11-12-2015, 04:02 PM
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Change the fuel pressure regulator while you're at it. Poor low end performance (blubbering), dropped idle and black smoke when you blip the throttle are signs it needs it.

Commom on low mileage bikes. I bought a '02 with 1,500 miles and had to change it. It's on the fuel rail behind the valve cover. Two bolts and a line or two (can't remember). Make sure you squeeze the fuel line and place a rag under it. I took the pads off a Quick Clamp and used needle knose vice grips. Very little fuel came out this way.

Oh, it's accessed from the shifter/left side and you'll need to raise your tank and place a 2 x 4 block under the front of it.

Easy-peezy!


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post #4 of 45 Old 11-12-2015, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Don't take it to the dealer.... Drain the tank and fill it with fresh fuel and add some Seafoam, and run it. I'd bet you have some water in there.
Thanks for the tip. Whats Seafoam?

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post #5 of 45 Old 11-13-2015, 02:13 AM
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Seafoam is a fuel additive, it works wonders cleaning out carbs & FI.

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post #6 of 45 Old 11-13-2015, 04:01 AM
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Fuel filter is a must, but I wouldn't just flush the tank once. I'd remove the tank and swirl around some solvent drain and repeat several times. Then replace the filter.

As far as tank size, I fill up near 100 myself and it's usually about 3.5 gallons.

If you don't want to remove the tank, you can fill it 1/3 and slosh it around, then drain. Maybe some acetone will work. You can check it when it comes out and repeat until it's clear.

I don't think many (if any) have got 5 gallons in there.

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post #7 of 45 Old 11-13-2015, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
I don't think many (if any) have got 5 gallons in there.

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post #8 of 45 Old 11-13-2015, 07:32 AM
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It is a 5 gallon tank. I've gotten 5 in there many times. Oh, g00gl3it. SMH. Haha.

Spoiler:

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post #9 of 45 Old 11-13-2015, 11:05 PM
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post #10 of 45 Old 11-14-2015, 10:22 AM
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i don't agree with slosh/flush and filter advice.
tank is coated from the factory and fuel filter is long life.
replace the fuel pressure regulator while allowing old fuel/water to drain out.
no removing/disconnecting tank, no swirling solvent.

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post #11 of 45 Old 11-14-2015, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks for the tip. Whats Seafoam?
Berryman's Carb/FI cleaner is much stronger. In 30 years of using Seafoam, it never once helped with an issue I had.

Berryman's? ABSOLUTELY! Be sure to measure it and not just dump it all in. When you measure it, use a glass measuring cup. It WILL disform plastic!

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post #12 of 45 Old 11-14-2015, 02:10 PM
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My (free) advice... Drain. Replace filter and maybe fuel pressure regulator. Run it. Still a problem? Add Seafoam. Run it.

I'd use the most aggressive cleaners as a last resort.

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post #13 of 45 Old 11-15-2015, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post

I don't think many (if any) have got 5 gallons in there.
Ye of little faith! One of my recent fills after running with the light on for a while [ but no running dry, coughing or spluttering] was 18.14 litres, or 4.79 of them funny galleons y'all use.

I'm with goog, I don't doubt you can get more than 5 gal in there.

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post #14 of 45 Old 11-15-2015, 02:18 AM
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This is so odd, I can't even remember getting past 4. The volume of 1 gallon of gas is quite a bit. Maybe I just fill too early or the gauge is off a bit. I guess it's a float (kind of odd they'd have a float and offer no fuel gauge), but maybe mine's off a bit. I don't tend to take big risk, I've had to push a carb'd bike home because of fuel issues and it's not fun.

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post #15 of 45 Old 11-15-2015, 08:40 AM
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It's actually a long thin wire that hangs down into the tank, I believe it has a thermistor (sp?) to read the fuel level. You can bend the wire down father to give you a more accurate reading of your gas level. I believe the father down in the gas it is, then the lower the level of gas before the thermistor trips and the signal is sent.

Rob would know, he invented the system I think

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post #16 of 45 Old 11-15-2015, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
This is so odd, I can't even remember getting past 4. The volume of 1 gallon of gas is quite a bit. Maybe I just fill too early or the gauge is off a bit. I guess it's a float (kind of odd they'd have a float and offer no fuel gauge), but maybe mine's off a bit. I don't tend to take big risk, I've had to push a carb'd bike home because of fuel issues and it's not fun.
Or you have a California emissions bike, which has space removed from it to allow for the CA evaporative emissions crap to fit. There is actually a separate part number for those in every year of 919.

I posted a video a couple years ago of getting more than 5.2 gallons in my battered non-CA tank after the bike had started spluttering on an off ramp - my idiot light had decided not to work for a while. I had to slosh fuel from one side of the tank to the pickup side to get to the end of the ramp and the station there.

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post #17 of 45 Old 11-17-2015, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by drivit View Post
tank is coated from the factory and fuel filter is long life.
Well unlike the outside of my tank the inside of my tank doesnt look so hot so not sure about the coating. I wouldnt call it rust per se, but there is some smutchz in there from sitting for 11 years.

As for fuel filters I once bought a 1973 Buick Century with 13,000 miles on it (in 1992) that had been sitting in a garage for 20 years. Ran great for 2 months and stopped running at all. Fuel Filter.

So the dealer is going to do the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator tommorow and hopefully when draining the tank get the gunk out.

Will report back with results and hopefully my first 5.2 fillup

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post #18 of 45 Old 11-17-2015, 01:06 PM
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These things are simple to do yourself. I wouldn't waste your money on the dealer. Good luck

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post #19 of 45 Old 11-17-2015, 05:46 PM
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I had a tank that looked great on the outside. Noticed a small leak at the bottom and after digging into it, the inside looked like swiss cheese with all the rust holes ready to break thru. I tried a sealer and it failed to hold to the inner surface.

I'd look at an acid wash, but keep in mind that the metal tends to be very thin. The part that scared me was having gas drip on a hot engine, not very comforting

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post #20 of 45 Old 11-17-2015, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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These things are simple to do yourself. I wouldn't waste your money on the dealer. Good luck
I do minor cosmetic stuff nothing mechanical right now. When it has 20K miles on it Ill do it. It has 4000 - Im sticking with the dealer since its "new".

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post #21 of 45 Old 11-18-2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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I do minor cosmetic stuff nothing mechanical right now. When it has 20K miles on it Ill do it. It has 4000 - Im sticking with the dealer since its "new".
Well heres the damage. Dealer says the tank either needs to be sealed or replaced. And that the fuel pump needs to be replaced due to the integrated filter being completely clogged.

He says they will give me the tank to seal it myself but he hasnt had good luck with "gelcote" or whatever.

Feedback welcome....
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post #22 of 45 Old 11-18-2015, 07:06 PM
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Replace the tank. Modern gasoline will eat most any sealant. You may be able to find a good used pump.

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post #23 of 45 Old 11-18-2015, 08:19 PM
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The money pit...

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post #24 of 45 Old 11-18-2015, 08:35 PM
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Hopefully no clogged injectors or fuel rail

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post #25 of 45 Old 11-18-2015, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Replace the tank. Modern gasoline will eat most any sealant. You may be able to find a good used pump.
I decided Im not going to seal it. Im going to take the rust off with metalrescue and call it good.

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post #26 of 45 Old 11-19-2015, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
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I decided Im not going to seal it. Im going to take the rust off with metalrescue and call it good.
It is not a good idea to put a fuel tank into use after only removing rust. The raw metal will begin to corrode almost immediately after it dries after cleaning, and will be a problem for as long as it is in use including, of course, rusting through.

Look up ethanol resistant fuel tank sealents: practically the only one you will find is Bill Hirsch sealant. I have not used it but know several mechanics who have with good long lasting results. In fact, it is tacitly approved for aircraft use, though they will not seek FAA approval because of a lack of professionals certified in its use. Nonetheless, it does a good job and is comparatively inexpensive.

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post #27 of 45 Old 11-19-2015, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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The raw metal will begin to corrode almost immediately after it dries after cleaning.
You might be right, but metalrescue doesnt etch the tank and supposedly doesnt have this issue with flash rust.

Either way Im going to find out. Ill drain the tank once a year and see whats what. Im not worried about it this tank would take another 10 years to rust through and I wont give it the chance.

Personally I think (any) sealant failure is not worth the risk.

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post #28 of 45 Old 11-19-2015, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Soooo, Im pretty against getting a new tank. Not necessarily because of the cost but just the hassle of painting one. new tank $770 dollars, then to paint it? I can get the paint from color rite for not much but painting sucks, (although I dont think the uranium green needs clearcoat) But where do I get original tank stickers? The whole thing just seems like a pita compared to derusting the tank.

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post #29 of 45 Old 11-19-2015, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
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Soooo, Im pretty against getting a new tank. Not necessarily because of the cost but just the hassle of painting one. new tank $770 dollars, then to paint it? I can get the paint from color rite for not much but painting sucks, (although I dont think the uranium green needs clearcoat) But where do I get original tank stickers? The whole thing just seems like a pita compared to derusting the tank.
If you buy from Honda, they come pre-painted.

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post #30 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:22 AM
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Yup, prepainted with the stickers and such already on.

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post #31 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:32 AM
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IIRC, the new tanks from Honda are around $500 or so. Search around here, there's a thread with part numbers and prices.

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post #32 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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IIRC, the new tanks from Honda are around $500 or so. Search around here, there's a thread with part numbers and prices.
OK if I can get from Honda for 500, I want a new tank, this bike is pristinne otherwise the inside of this GD tank! Ill look around if anyone has part numbers let me know. Should I call honda in LA, the dealer wants 770 for a tank and "isnt sure if he can get one"

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post #33 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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OK So the dealer gave me the part # 17500-MC0-D10ZF, can anyone give me a place that might be able to get me a better price than 770? Now that I know they are painted with stickers Im all in on this.

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post #34 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:18 PM
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OK So the dealer gave me the part # 17500-MC0-D10ZF, can anyone give me a place that might be able to get me a better price than 770? Now that I know they are painted with stickers Im all in on this.
. It should be this. I am double checking to verify. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...MCZ-D10ZF.html Edit. It has to be . Your part number is incorrect or obsolete. You can always call them. I don't think you will find a better price. They ship free

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post #35 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Wow awesxome find. I think thats the CA one, mine is 49 state. So I guess I should call these guys because the dealer says Honda has these in stock on the east cost in both flavors.

Thanks man!

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post #36 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 01:50 PM
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No problem. That's definitely the correct number I gave you. Here's a whole thread about it. https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...s/29316?page=1. Feel free to check out their site and call them. That number you have is old.

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post #37 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 02:09 PM
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This Honda 17500-MCZ-D10ZF TANK, FUEL (TYPE4) is used on these models and components:

2004 CB900F A FUEL TANK

This Honda 17500-MCZ-L10ZC TANK, FUEL (TYPE1) is used on these models and components:

2004 CB900F AC FUEL TANK <---- cali model

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post #38 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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No problem. That's definitely the correct number I gave you. Here's a whole thread about it. https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...s/29316?page=1. Feel free to check out their site and call them. That number you have is old.
Dude, you just saved me 270 bucks! Thanks so much man!

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post #39 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 03:59 PM
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Could check bikebandit.com too but usually partzilla has lower prices

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post #40 of 45 Old 11-20-2015, 04:05 PM
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I have no idea why people buy shit from Bike bandit . They charge at least 20% more than Partzilla and Motorcyclegoodies.com on everything. They want $647 for the same tank

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