any more rear shock options? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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any more rear shock options?

I have searched for reasonable priced Penske or Ohlin shock and havent found any, wondering if anyone has found another company or actually tried the YSS shock.

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post #2 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 06:54 AM
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You didn't mention the Progressive 420. It's no Ohlins, but it's a big step up from the OEM pretend shock. I'm not sure it's available new anymore, though.

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post #3 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 02:43 PM
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Who was it that had their shock rebuilt and resprung with Ohlin parts? Somewhere in the east coast if I remember correctly

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post #4 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
Who was it that had their shock rebuilt and resprung with Ohlin parts? Somewhere in the east coast if I remember correctly
It is zaq123.

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post #5 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 06:35 PM
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Thanks! Sent him a PM

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post #6 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 06:50 PM
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post #7 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 07:00 PM
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Hope these links help. They're about rebuilding the stocker or an F3 rear shock.

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ock-23727.html

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ade-27143.html

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post #8 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 07:10 PM
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SWEEET! I'm in the market for a rear shock, I already have an 07 shock sitting around and this could be a possibility. Definitely not in the budget for an Ohlins. Although I'm sure it's the absolute best you could get... and the progressive 420 is long gone.

This isn't considered a thread jacking is it?

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- '01 RC51 SP1 (Sold)
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post #9 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 07:50 PM
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I recently ordered the HO322 Ohlins rear shock. This is the model without an external reservoir or remote clicker, which seems to either be discontinued or not typically sold here in the US. The store I purchased from said they are ordering it from Sweden and it will take approximately 2 weeks for it to arrive. Hopefully there are no surprises and it arrives some time later this month. If/when it does, I'll be sure to post some feedback.

FYI - for anyone that might be interested the price was $524 + shipping. I didn't want to spend quite that much but hopefully it will be worth it. If I had an unlimted budget, I would have just bought the higher end Ohlins with remote reservoir which I'm sure is a better shock, maybe even "better enough" to justify the extra $400 or so, but that was just too much more than what I could spend for the upgrade. Other options I considered were the Progressive 420 shock (which I can't seem to find anywhere in stock or at a reasonable price...I'm pretty sure it's been discontinued for a while), a Penske shock, or a Hagon shock. I don't remember the exact prices but I think the Penske was about the same as what I paid for the Ohlins and the Hagon models were a little cheaper. At that point I figured all else being relatively equal, I'd take the Ohlins. If for some reason this order falls through (e.g. they tell me they can't get one from Sweden after all....which I have this nagging feeling might happen), I'll look into the Penske or Hagon again.

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post #10 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heist View Post
I have searched for reasonable priced Penske or Ohlin shock and havent found any, wondering if anyone has found another company or actually tried the YSS shock.
Yes, I'm running a YSS shock...have had it on for nearly a year...once I got it set for sag, etc, I've left it alone, and have been happy with how the bike feels...

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post #11 of 28 Old 06-02-2012, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffc_76 View Post
I recently ordered the HO322 Ohlins rear shock. This is the model without an external reservoir or remote clicker, which seems to either be discontinued or not typically sold here in the US. The store I purchased from said they are ordering it from Sweden and it will take approximately 2 weeks for it to arrive. Hopefully there are no surprises and it arrives some time later this month. If/when it does, I'll be sure to post some feedback.

FYI - for anyone that might be interested the price was $524 + shipping. I didn't want to spend quite that much but hopefully it will be worth it. If I had an unlimited budget, I would have just bought the higher end Ohlins with remote reservoir which I'm sure is a better shock, maybe even "better enough" to justify the extra $400 or so, but that was just too much more than what I could spend for the upgrade. Other options I considered were the Progressive 420 shock (which I can't seem to find anywhere in stock or at a reasonable price...I'm pretty sure it's been discontinued for a while), a Penske shock, or a Hagon shock. I don't remember the exact prices but I think the Penske was about the same as what I paid for the Ohlins and the Hagon models were a little cheaper. At that point I figured all else being relatively equal, I'd take the Ohlins. If for some reason this order falls through (e.g. they tell me they can't get one from Sweden after all....which I have this nagging feeling might happen), I'll look into the Penske or Hagon again.
You should be very happy with the H0322 - I am! Mine was made up by my Ohlins guru in New Zealand - it uses a equivalent damper etc from a current Kawasaki model and gets revalved to match the Honda's HO322 specs, plus the lower mount gets changed. Sprung to your weight of course.

It has made a huge improvement to my bike. One thing to note - set up your sag first - you'll find the rear rides a bit taller and if you find the bike tends to run out on corners (drifts outwards) as I did, raise the fork legs in the triple clamps so there is 5mm poking above the top surface of the top T (stock setting is flush).

If you have not done so yet I'd highly recommend replacing the crap front springs (fresh fork oil too).

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post #12 of 28 Old 06-03-2012, 04:43 AM
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post #13 of 28 Old 06-03-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
That's the HO322.

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post #14 of 28 Old 06-03-2012, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
You should be very happy with the H0322 - I am! Mine was made up by my Ohlins guru in New Zealand - it uses a equivalent damper etc from a current Kawasaki model and gets revalved to match the Honda's HO322 specs, plus the lower mount gets changed. Sprung to your weight of course.

It has made a huge improvement to my bike. One thing to note - set up your sag first - you'll find the rear rides a bit taller and if you find the bike tends to run out on corners (drifts outwards) as I did, raise the fork legs in the triple clamps so there is 5mm poking above the top surface of the top T (stock setting is flush).

If you have not done so yet I'd highly recommend replacing the crap front springs (fresh fork oil too).
Careful here in terms of literal interpretations.
A raised rear effectively lowers the front.
AllanB also stiffened his front springs, and may have made further changes by the amount of internal preload used.
So the corrective changes he has described above should be those to bring the Rider On Front and Rear Chassis Ride Heights back where he wanted them to be.
Simply raising the rear ride height alone does not yield the drifting he described, in fact if anything is should quicken the front end.
919 squat characteristics may have come into play in terms of what he was feeling. Incorrect damper settings could also have been at play.

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post #15 of 28 Old 06-21-2012, 06:35 PM
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I've had the HO322 Ohlins shock for a couple weeks now so I'll post my thoughts so far. I'm no expert with suspensions so I guess take that into consideration. I've also only had a chance to go on a few real rides so far, in addition to my very boring daily commute and some shorter rides in the evenings, so I'm still getting accustomed to how the bike handles now with the Ohlins.

The seller said that the shock would be resprung and revalved for my weight (165 lbs w/ gear) and I have to think they did a nice job with that because after I installed it and before I started messing around with the preload or rebound damping, I made some measurements. Free sag was right around 5 mm and static sag was right around 30 mm. I say "around" because I measured without backing the clicker all the way out, which I understand now isn't the right way to do it. Also, I'm measuring the best I can with my wife's help and my numbers could be a little off. Anyway, I did a few days of commutes and then took a ~120 mile ride with the "default" out of the box settings over some of my favorite back roads with a good variety of road conditions. I should also mention that I returned my stock front suspension to the factory defaults for preload and damping. My feeling was that in the smooth stuff to moderately bumpy, the bike was handling and cornering better than ever. In the small bumps that would have been unsettling with the stock rear shock, the Ohlins just chewed them right up. It was really night and day.

Where things weren't so good were when I got to some sections with really bad frost heaves. I'm talking about those nasty raised sections that run across the whole width of the road, almost like a small speed bump. If you live in the south you might never have seen one! Anyway, with the stock shock these would often toss me right out of my seat and unfortunately, with the Ohlins I was getting tossed out about the same. I was hoping that the better shock might be a little more forgiving in these sections but I really don't feel like it was much, if any, better with the out of the box preload and clicker settings.

I thought the first thing I'd try would be to back off the preload a little. I did that and re-measured (with the clicker backed out all the way this time) and I got 8mm free sag / 38mm static sag. Again, I don't promise these numbers are perfect. I've ridden another couple hundred miles with these settings and I feel like the bike is handling just as well or awfully close in the smooth to moderately bumpy stuff. If I've softend it too much, I'm probably not riding aggressively enough to feel it. It seems to soak up some of the rougher terrain a little better now too. The real test will be this weekend when I can go back through the worst section I rode before and see if I'm still getting launched out of the seat. Just based on how it feels right now, my guess is the worst bumps will still toss me a little but not as violently as before. Maybe someone who knows can tell me if I'm on the right track, but my feeling is that I don't want to add any more sag and possibly degrade the performance for 99.9% of my riding to improve the 0.1% over the god awful frost heaves. I could play with the rebound damping a little (I'm right in the middle at 15 clicks) but it really seems to be soaking up the small bumps perfectly as is.

I'll be upgrading the front springs soon (sitting in a box in my garage right now). I don't feel like the stock fronts are really all that bad right now, at least compared to how the stock rear shock felt. I imagine that's because I'm a lighter rider and the stock front springs are only a little undersprung for me, while the stock rear was way oversprung for almost everybody. But the front springs are cheap so I figured I might as well get the front set up right too.

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post #16 of 28 Old 06-22-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffc_76 View Post
I've had the HO322 Ohlins shock for a couple weeks now so I'll post my thoughts so far. I'm no expert with suspensions so I guess take that into consideration. I've also only had a chance to go on a few real rides so far, in addition to my very boring daily commute and some shorter rides in the evenings, so I'm still getting accustomed to how the bike handles now with the Ohlins.

The seller said that the shock would be resprung and revalved for my weight (165 lbs w/ gear) and I have to think they did a nice job with that because after I installed it and before I started messing around with the preload or rebound damping, I made some measurements. Free sag was right around 5 mm and static sag was right around 30 mm. I say "around" because I measured without backing the clicker all the way out, which I understand now isn't the right way to do it. Also, I'm measuring the best I can with my wife's help and my numbers could be a little off. Anyway, I did a few days of commutes and then took a ~120 mile ride with the "default" out of the box settings over some of my favorite back roads with a good variety of road conditions. I should also mention that I returned my stock front suspension to the factory defaults for preload and damping. My feeling was that in the smooth stuff to moderately bumpy, the bike was handling and cornering better than ever. In the small bumps that would have been unsettling with the stock rear shock, the Ohlins just chewed them right up. It was really night and day.

Where things weren't so good were when I got to some sections with really bad frost heaves. I'm talking about those nasty raised sections that run across the whole width of the road, almost like a small speed bump. If you live in the south you might never have seen one! Anyway, with the stock shock these would often toss me right out of my seat and unfortunately, with the Ohlins I was getting tossed out about the same. I was hoping that the better shock might be a little more forgiving in these sections but I really don't feel like it was much, if any, better with the out of the box preload and clicker settings.

I thought the first thing I'd try would be to back off the preload a little. I did that and re-measured (with the clicker backed out all the way this time) and I got 8mm free sag / 38mm static sag. Again, I don't promise these numbers are perfect. I've ridden another couple hundred miles with these settings and I feel like the bike is handling just as well or awfully close in the smooth to moderately bumpy stuff. If I've softend it too much, I'm probably not riding aggressively enough to feel it. It seems to soak up some of the rougher terrain a little better now too. The real test will be this weekend when I can go back through the worst section I rode before and see if I'm still getting launched out of the seat. Just based on how it feels right now, my guess is the worst bumps will still toss me a little but not as violently as before. Maybe someone who knows can tell me if I'm on the right track, but my feeling is that I don't want to add any more sag and possibly degrade the performance for 99.9% of my riding to improve the 0.1% over the god awful frost heaves. I could play with the rebound damping a little (I'm right in the middle at 15 clicks) but it really seems to be soaking up the small bumps perfectly as is.

I'll be upgrading the front springs soon (sitting in a box in my garage right now). I don't feel like the stock fronts are really all that bad right now, at least compared to how the stock rear shock felt. I imagine that's because I'm a lighter rider and the stock front springs are only a little undersprung for me, while the stock rear was way oversprung for almost everybody. But the front springs are cheap so I figured I might as well get the front set up right too.
Your Free and Rider Sags make it real clear that your frost heave issue is high speed compression damping related, not rebound, not spring rate, not preload.
I suggest you go for 35 mm of Free Sag and simply know that your Free number will be fine.
You'll have good chassis ride height, and a bit softer when topping out.

What is the spring rate of the fronts you have in the box ?
Trusting they are an appropriate rate, the addition of those will reasonably finish a transformation of your steed.

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post #17 of 28 Old 06-23-2012, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Your Free and Rider Sags make it real clear that your frost heave issue is high speed compression damping related, not rebound, not spring rate, not preload.
I suggest you go for 35 mm of Free Sag and simply know that your Free number will be fine.
You'll have good chassis ride height, and a bit softer when topping out.

What is the spring rate of the fronts you have in the box ?
Trusting they are an appropriate rate, the addition of those will reasonably finish a transformation of your steed.
Thanks for the recommendation on setting the sag (I'm sure you meant 35 mm static sag). Do you believe my compression damping is too much? Too little? Would it be worth sending the shock back for an adjustment?

My springs are .85's. I ordered some 10wt Maxima racing fork oil too, after seeing it recommended around here more than once.

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post #18 of 28 Old 06-23-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffc_76 View Post
Thanks for the recommendation on setting the sag (I'm sure you meant 35 mm static sag). Do you believe my compression damping is too much? Too little? Would it be worth sending the shock back for an adjustment?

My springs are .85's. I ordered some 10wt Maxima racing fork oil too, after seeing it recommended around here more than once.
Sorry about that, yes I meant Rider Sag re the 35 mm.
The road condition you describe is extreme, the sharp frost heaves that is.
Such a condition is hard to set up for, and your complaint is the very first I have ever seen for any Ohlins 919 shock.
I'd be asking LDH at Dan Kyle's for his opinion, as he knows the shock and bike inside out. Ohlins can easily have their internal damping characteristics altered.
The irony is that damper is so good, that the frost heaves will feel worse in comparison to the rest of the ride. My guess is that you'll end up leaving it as is.

Your 85s will be noticeably stiffer than stock, but still leave you with a fairly plush front end ride. Whatever harshness you notice will be from the 919's notoriously high stiction, not from spring rate. Be careful on your spacer length re the internal preload you net from that. On the basis of 85s, I start with no less than 15 mm of installed preload but no more than 20.

You can't go wrong with the Max oil. Suggested is using oil level to stiffen up the total springing effect towards the end of travel given the fairly light 85 rate springs. Suggested is not more than 140 mm of oil level, but not less than 125. Try 140 for softer towards end of stroke. If you are trying to get rid of some brake dive, go 130 or 125.

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post #19 of 28 Old 06-23-2012, 07:55 AM
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Thanks again for all the great info. I'll be sure to refer back to this when I install the new springs.

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post #20 of 28 Old 06-23-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
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Thanks again for all the great info. I'll be sure to refer back to this when I install the new springs.
I'm curious, what are the damping adjusters on the HO322?
Just rebound ?
None?
Or ?

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post #21 of 28 Old 06-23-2012, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44

I'm curious, what are the damping adjusters on the HO322?
Just rebound ?
None?
Or ?
Rebound only. I'm roughly in the middle at 15 clicks out.

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post #22 of 28 Old 06-24-2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
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Rebound only. I'm roughly in the middle at 15 clicks out.
Good to know and thanks for adding that detail.

If you want to tinker with the rebound, just remember that too much is very bad.
Too much rebound will get you into trouble as the suspension won't extend back to normal position, a trait knowing as "packing". This pertains to both the front and rear end.

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post #23 of 28 Old 07-03-2012, 07:06 PM
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just got my rebuilt,revalved,resprung f3 shock back from jim @

//////PRO PILOT SUSPENSION ,OHLINS ,OHLINS SUSPENSION,FORKS,SHOCKS,STEERING DAMPERS///////

wow! great job jim!! and waaayyy cheaper than a new shock

'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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post #24 of 28 Old 07-03-2012, 07:24 PM
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Nice!^^

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post #25 of 28 Old 07-03-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by drewvir View Post
just got my rebuilt,revalved,resprung f3 shock back from jim @

//////PRO PILOT SUSPENSION ,OHLINS ,OHLINS SUSPENSION,FORKS,SHOCKS,STEERING DAMPERS///////

wow! great job jim!! and waaayyy cheaper than a new shock
What is the free length of the F3 as compared to the 919 ?

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post #26 of 28 Old 07-03-2012, 08:06 PM
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+3/8"

'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-04-2012, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
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+3/8"
This is useable and has advantage.
A bit long, but if matched with a spring of 1100 # / inch or so max, and run with 10 mm of free sag, it would end with a nice ride height, elevated for better C of G positioning re lean leverage, as well as better antisquat force.

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post #28 of 28 Old 07-04-2012, 09:10 PM
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yes it is. i was running the forks up 10 mm but with this shock it was a little twitchy for my tastes.
so i dropped them to factory location and it's back to where it was before the shock swap.

the rear rides so much better,firm but compliant over expansion joints. it tracks and stays planted in even very rough turns.

overall, very confidence inspiring ride.

i overjoyed with this upgrade.
jim @ propilot reaqlly is an artist with suspension

'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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