I've had the bike 2 years and have put 10k miles on it (17,700 total) with no issues. I've always stored it indoors, and kept up with regular maintenance. A couple weeks ago I tried to leave for work and that's when it wouldn't start. The FI light came on which has happened before, but in very cold weather.
The last time it ran was when I idled it after an oil change a few days before. It fired right up, and nothing was out of the ordinary. Initially, I thought it might be related to my oil change. It was the first time I didn't change the filter with the oil, so I suspected overfill. No oil light, however there was oil still in the inspection window. I said to hell with it, dumped the oil, and redid it with a new filter. Still no start of course.
In the meantime, I ordered new spark plugs and the handy oem plug wrench (after finding my sockets didn't fit).
Next I checked for fault codes. It gave me 7 blinks for the ECT. The voltage and resistance checked out on the sensor, so I ruled that out and cleared out the code. Before trying another start I replaced the plugs. Still no start. Plugs seem to be getting good spark.
Now it gives me a solid FI light. Check bank sensor, voltage good. Tilting trips the FSR like it should. I check the FSR itself. Two prongs give battery voltage, the other two give ~0.5v. Seems fine. No continuity with no voltage applied on the relay. All fuses are good.
I'm about at the point where it looks like I have to replace the pgm-fi unit, but maybe I missed something obvious. It just seems weird for it to die out of the blue. Perhaps the oil change was just a coincidence.
Just wanting a second or third opinion before I drop a bunch of money on a part.
What was the condition of the spark plugs you replaced? If they were anything but clean, dry, and the insulator ceramics a light tan / gray color it may have fouled them, in which case I would try cranking the motor with the throttle held wide open. Most FI systems, yours included, have a feature called "dechoke", where a full throttle condition while cranking will cut off the injectors which will clear the cylinders of residual fuel. It has worked for several WT members who idled their motor from cold for a short time, and then let it sit for a few days. It's worth a shot. I also recommend pulling the headlight fuse and taping it to the handlebar (so you remember its not in the fuse box) until such time as you have it running again -- no need for the headlight, and it decreases the load on the battery which helps increase troubleshooting time.
Past that, you will have to confirm the presence of the three things any engine needs to run: air, fuel, and spark. You already know the air and spark are there, all that's left is the fuel.
If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------
Once a year I run this in my vehicles. It helps tremendously.
I used this 12 years ago on my 1992 Trans Am. Pulled a plug, saw the plug was completely fouled, like the injector was dripping fuel in (which I could tell something was wrong when it was at idle).
I put this in according to the instructions, ran it for 10 miles on the freeway going back and forth from 4th to 5th gear.
Came back and let it idle in the garage and immediately noticed a smooth idle!
Pulled the plug as soon as the engine cooled down, and the plug looked nice and clean.
Been using it ever since in all my bikes and cars. $14 bucks a can it better work