919 - Missed shifts - sticky shifter? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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919 - Missed shifts - sticky shifter?

Hey guys,

every so often while riding i try to shift up and occasionally the bike doesnt. This happened on my VTX but seems to happen a lot on the 919. I'm cruising along somewhere between 4-4500rpm, engage the clutch and attempt to snap the shifter up when i let the clutch back down im still in the same gear and rpms soar back up.

Anyone have this happen? Part of me thinks it has something to do with the shifter arm being short, my shoes are hitting the shifter itself and not fully raising the arm but i am not sure.

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post #2 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 08:43 AM
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Its happened to me when i was using honda gn4 oil and towards 3000 miles on the oil. I started using motul and I dont have that issue anwhere in the life of the oil.

Not sure if you'll have the same luck but that's what I experienced anyways.

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post #3 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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i did do a change a month back with the mobil racing 4t stuff... the oil before that was whatever the PO had in it.

Also the shifts from neutral to 1st and neutral to 2nd are very clunky... but i thought this was just the way the tranny was on these bikes.

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post #4 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 09:17 AM
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First neutral second are definitely super clunky if you're not in the right rev range. I catch neutral every once in a while going from first to second but never anywhere else. Never had this problem though..


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post #5 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 11:22 AM
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adjust your shift arm so you get a more positive upshift.

Also when you upshift, be VERY deliberate. Don't half ass it.

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post #6 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 11:37 AM
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Also make sure the two bell cranks in the shift linkage are parallel with each other. The linkage will lose travel and have a negative affect on the shifting action if its not rigged properly.

Also make sure you use locate on the locking bolt, they are prone to backing out and getting lost.

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post #7 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys... now for a super dumb question: what is the proper rev range on these bikes?



edit: sorry that was a lazy question i could have searched for, i found some answers and further helpful tips here:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...nky-27025.html

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post #8 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGKukov View Post
what is the proper rev range on these bikes?

High. That's how they like it

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post #9 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGKukov View Post
what is the proper rev range on these bikes?
Ride it how you want to, you won't break it.

There are guys on here who talk about routinely bumping it off the rev limiter, and others who pootle around at relatively low revs, using the flexibility of the engine to get around without fuss. Suit yourself, really.

I do a lot of riding in urban, 50 km/h zones, so the rev-limiter is out of the question, unless I want to lose my license....

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post #10 of 19 Old 08-09-2014, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliMech View Post
Also make sure the two bell cranks in the shift linkage are parallel with each other. The linkage will lose travel and have a negative affect on the shifting action if its not rigged properly.

Also make sure you use locate on the locking bolt, they are prone to backing out and getting lost.
Duff technique is # 1 cause.
# 2 is likely linkage per above.
Distant # 3 would be oil, as in very hot day in combination with # 1.
Oil can make a significant difference though.

I find the 919 easier to work the gearbox on the track than putzing around.
Preloading the lever some before the upshift helps huge.

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post #11 of 19 Old 08-10-2014, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Duff technique is # 1 cause.
Some of my shifts are sweet, and some are not, and I know sometimes my timing with the lever and the clutch is just off, despite my best intentions, and I get a clunk as a result.

This is me, not the bike - if I couldn't ever get a good shift, I'd think differently, but I know perfectly well that on some days, it goes better than others....

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post #12 of 19 Old 08-12-2014, 03:25 PM
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Have same problem.

When I used Royal Purple, it shifted much better. I've been running Amsoil for a while because the shop I use doesn't carry Royal Purple.

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post #13 of 19 Old 08-17-2014, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SGKukov View Post
Hey guys,

every so often while riding i try to shift up and occasionally the bike doesnt. This happened on my VTX but seems to happen a lot on the 919. I'm cruising along somewhere between 4-4500rpm, engage the clutch and attempt to snap the shifter up when i let the clutch back down im still in the same gear and rpms soar back up.

Anyone have this happen? Part of me thinks it has something to do with the shifter arm being short, my shoes are hitting the shifter itself and not fully raising the arm but i am not sure.
I've been getting a lot of miss shifts this season too. Another forum said stop pussy-footing it and shift like you mean it. I've been consciously doing that and have still gotten some. This week, I actually got 2 within a few minutes.

I was originally thinking maybe clutch plates, but at 21k miles most people seem to say that's probably not it. I bought that bike when it had 14k on it, so I don't know how the previous owners treated it.

Since that I had 2 missed shifts in a row that day, I've been waiting til a little higher RPM to shift to see if that helps. I'm trying to wait to shift until at minimum 3.5-4k instead of around 3k when just putting/commuting around.

At first it was only happening from 5th to 6th gear. This week I noticed it also happened going from 4th to 5th.

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post #14 of 19 Old 08-17-2014, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Biker6 View Post
I'm trying to wait to shift until at minimum 3.5-4k instead of around 3k when just putting/commuting around.


Holy cow batman.. Rev that thing! I don't shift until 4k, minimum! Usually 6k on the 45 mph+ surface streets and freeways.

Also, adjust your shift linkage for more positive upshift.

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post #15 of 19 Old 08-18-2014, 12:19 AM
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This may be another daft question but how do you adjust your shift linkage ? Also is your clutch adjusted properly

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post #16 of 19 Old 08-18-2014, 12:33 AM
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Lube it baby! The gear linkage that is......
Made for smoother changes & adjust of
course. Someone will have a youtube
for the adjustment, but it's easy.

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post #17 of 19 Old 08-18-2014, 03:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by believeindabri View Post
This may be another daft question but how do you adjust your shift linkage ?
Mostly, this will be altering the position of your gear lever so that the upwards movement of your foot takes the lever all the way through the available travel, and clicks the next gear home.

The rod that connects the crank on the shift shaft to the crank on the end of the lever itself [part #11 in the attached diagram] is threaded at both ends, and if you undo the lock nuts, you can raise and lower the shift lever by turning it.

If you are missing shifts repeatedly, you might want to try dropping the tip of the lever, so that your upwards lift of the toe is sure of clicking the gearbox into the next gear - it sounds like you are getting a false neutral - halfway out of one gear, but not quite into the next .
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post #18 of 19 Old 08-18-2014, 07:11 AM
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Remember !
When you drop or raise the toe lever height, you must check to make sure the arms of both bell cranks are parallel to each other.
This may require moving the bell crank arm that goes on the gear shifter input shaft by one spline.
Mind boggling to me is that I have never seen this noted in a manual.

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post #19 of 19 Old 08-18-2014, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w1Boy View Post
you might want to try dropping the tip of the lever, so that your upwards lift of the toe is sure of clicking the gearbox into the next gear
^^ This.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Remember !
When you drop or raise the toe lever height, you must check to make sure the arms of both bell cranks are parallel to each other.
This may require moving the bell crank arm that goes on the gear shifter input shaft by one spline.
Mind boggling to me is that I have never seen this noted in a manual.
And this ^. It's like macro and micro changes, if you can't get the proper adjustment by the threaded rod, then move it counter-clockwise one notch and re-adjust the threaded rod again.

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