919 Issues - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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919 Issues

Recently picked up this 2002 919. Put about 400 miles on it so far. The gauges have been replaced with a Koso unit so i don't know exact mileage but i was told its around 15-20,000. Its believable as the bike is fairly clean aside from the road rash. Anyway, recently it has been starting to get a "pop" or misfire out of the exhaust at idle/low RPM. It doesn't seen to transmit to the wheels. Recently put about 240 miles on in a weekend and it has gotten worse. Idle is very jumpy and it makes the pop sound every couple seconds. Also it sounds like there is a tick when i get on the throttle from a low rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear. Power still seems to be good. Definitely doesn't seem to have much top end pull though, but i am used to riding at about 1000ft compared to 7500ft or so in WY. The bike is topping at 130 mph. Does this sound like the valves need shimmed? Thanks


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post #2 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
Recently picked up this 2002 919. Put about 400 miles on it so far. The gauges have been replaced with a Koso unit so i don't know exact mileage but i was told its around 15-20,000. Its believable as the bike is fairly clean aside from the road rash. Anyway, recently it has been starting to get a "pop" or misfire out of the exhaust at idle/low RPM. It doesn't seen to transmit to the wheels. Recently put about 240 miles on in a weekend and it has gotten worse. Idle is very jumpy and it makes the pop sound every couple seconds. Also it sounds like there is a tick when i get on the throttle from a low rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear. Power still seems to be good. Definitely doesn't seem to have much top end pull though, but i am used to riding at about 1000ft compared to 7500ft or so in WY. The bike is topping at 130 mph. Does this sound like the valves need shimmed? Thanks

Do you know if the PAIR valve system has been removed? What about the vacuum tube to the air intake flapper (in front of the air filter), has it been removed and capped?

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post #3 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 04:45 PM
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If you estimate you are at 20k, you are due for a valve check. Since you don't know, I would advise it (for piece of mind.)

The 'tick' you are hearing is likely the injectors, and while not gear dependent is easier to hear at slower speeds.

The bike should not be topping at 130mph, unless you are going uphill into the wind. 919s typically indicate 150-155mph (uncorrected.) I'm wondering if you don't have a mis-calibrated speedo-healer that is part of the problem.

Other things I would check are the air-filter. K&N is a waste of money (and you lose power using it)

Power Commander -- known to cause sporadic issues, may be resolved with the latest firmware which I believe you have to call PC to get ahold of.

FPR -- search the forums for fuel pressure regulator. It's an easy check, costs nothing, and is a 'known issue'

Outside of that, I'm not a mechanic and to my knowledge g00gl3it has thrown out the other suggestions I would be looking at.

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post #4 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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I do not know about the pairs system. I did plug the vacuum line for the flapper though.

The thing is i did not hear this tick before i put some real miles on it. It sounds a bit louder than the injectors do.

As for the top speed, the koso gauge seems to be pretty dead on around town and the highway. I guess the only way to really know would be a radar or gps, but it sure didn't feel like it was pulling too hard. Last bike was a 95 CBR600 and that definitely felt stronger up top, but i was at 1000ft altitude.

Air filter looked fairly clean. No power commander. I was planning on checking valve clearance anyway but i figured i would see what you guys thought about the problem. Thanks for the suggestions

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post #5 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 05:48 PM
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130 mph sounds about right for max speed, give or take and with the koso unit you'd be getting very accurate readings for sure.

you should look into the pairs system to ensure it's not been messed with. if it has, ensure that it was removed/sealed off correctly.

if inspecting the pairs system gives no indication of anything wrong then inspect your FPR.

do the valve adjustment anyways just so you know for sure since you dont know where the exact mileage is at.

and remember, KISS principle.

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post #6 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 08:12 PM
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For the ticking, Change the oil. Go with rotella t6. It made my bike much quieter. I'm assuming you didn't change it when you bought it...and you don't know what is in there or how long it's been there.

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post #7 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariannasdaddy View Post
For the ticking, Change the oil. Go with rotella t6. It made my bike much quieter. I'm assuming you didn't change it when you bought it...and you don't know what is in there or how long it's been there.
Correct i have not changed the oil yet but was planning on it asap. Shouldn't i use an oil that's approved for wet clutch operation?

Ill take a look at the pairs system.

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post #8 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
Correct i have not changed the oil yet but was planning on it asap. Shouldn't i use an oil that's approved for wet clutch operation?

Ill take a look at the pairs system.
so long as an oil doesn't have energy conserving additives, its "approved" for wet clutches

most oils today work well to varying degrees. yes this includes dino oil as well. rotella t5 or t6 will work well and hold up well to the searing effect of the transmission. other oils work well but i wont turn this into an oil thread, plenty of that can be found via the search button.

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post #9 of 22 Old 05-07-2012, 10:45 PM
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This is as fast as I've gotten her. Verified by both Koso and GPS:
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post #10 of 22 Old 05-08-2012, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Changed the oil with Rotella T6 today. Seemed to run a bit better but it is still acting up. FPR vacuum line appeared dry and did not smell of fuel. Pairs system is still installed. Anything in particular i should be looking for on the pairs system?

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post #11 of 22 Old 05-08-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
Pairs system is still installed. Anything in particular i should be looking for on the pairs system?
hmmmmm, sounds like the pairs system is doing exactly it's job then. i dont think there's anything wrong with your bike. if you dont like the popping, ditch the pairs system. otherwise, just ride it!

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post #12 of 22 Old 05-09-2012, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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hmmmmm, sounds like the pairs system is doing exactly it's job then. i dont think there's anything wrong with your bike. if you dont like the popping, ditch the pairs system. otherwise, just ride it!
So this is the PAIRS making it idle jumpy and pop? What exactly makes it do that? Thanks for the reply.

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post #13 of 22 Old 05-09-2012, 05:21 AM
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The PAIRS system just injects fresh air into your exhaust. If you have unburned fuel mixed with the fresh air causes the popping. On most bikes this popping happens on hard deceleration. Popping at idle and the idle jumping around doesn't sound normal, so something must be going on with your fueling. You may want to pull your spark plugs and see if any of them look wet with fuel.

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post #14 of 22 Old 05-09-2012, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
So this is the PAIRS making it idle jumpy and pop? What exactly makes it do that? Thanks for the reply.
hmmm, didn't catch that part, my apologies. what marylandmike said, check the sparkplugs for wetness/high carbon build-up. i would also inspect the spark plug wires to ensure there's no breaks in the wires.

check battery for loose terminal connections, check your ground under the gas tank.

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post #15 of 22 Old 05-09-2012, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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I had 1 and 4 out. Both were a nice tan/brown color with a small wet spot. No breaks in wires that i could see. I may double check that.

It is kind of intermittent. It will idle smooth for a couple seconds then start bouncing again for another couple seconds. It does kind of sound like a cylinder kicking in and out but it cant be felt when riding.

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post #16 of 22 Old 05-09-2012, 01:12 PM
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+1 plugs and wires first....

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post #17 of 22 Old 05-10-2012, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I will look further into the plugs and wires. Thanks for the replies.

Can anyone recommend a decently priced brake pad set?

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post #18 of 22 Old 05-10-2012, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
I will look further into the plugs and wires. Thanks for the replies.

Can anyone recommend a decently priced brake pad set?
Not sure about prices, but most will stay stick with OEM Honda, best you can get.

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post #19 of 22 Old 05-10-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
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Not sure about prices, but most will stay stick with OEM Honda, best you can get.
+1! OEM pads rock.

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post #20 of 22 Old 05-10-2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samsonite View Post
I had 1 and 4 out. Both were a nice tan/brown color with a small wet spot. No breaks in wires that i could see. I may double check that.

It is kind of intermittent. It will idle smooth for a couple seconds then start bouncing again for another couple seconds. It does kind of sound like a cylinder kicking in and out but it cant be felt when riding.
I used to pull a single plug when doing diagnostics, until the time someone came back and showed me one of the 3 plugs I didn't check, the insulator was broken! Check them all, or don't consider it a valid check.

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post #21 of 22 Old 05-13-2012, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Will check. Haven't had a good opportunity because of the weather. Seems that the tick is getting worse. Will the cam chain tensioner affect this? It only ticks under load in about the first 3 gears. Ive done the manual swap before with my old cbr600 but that only ticked when cold.

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post #22 of 22 Old 05-16-2015, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
hmmm, didn't catch that part, my apologies. what marylandmike said, check the sparkplugs for wetness/high carbon build-up. i would also inspect the spark plug wires to ensure there's no breaks in the wires.

check battery for loose terminal connections, check your ground under the gas tank.
Is there a solo ground under the tank?

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