919 charcoal canister? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 67 Old 07-08-2010, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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919 charcoal canister?

OK guys i have a CA model of the 919 with the awesome appendage known as the charcoal canister. Needless to say i was wondering what the routing is like for those NON ca models... does the tank vent just hang down with the throttle body purge ports capped?

cus im thinkin bout gettin rid of it!

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post #2 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 12:49 AM
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got the factory service manual? I'm pretty sure it'd be easy to figure out with that how things work on non-ca versions. I don't have it handy so I can't tell you (and the flooding is bad enough I'd rather float away in my cage)

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post #3 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 08:04 AM
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I believe you can just take it off and plug the vaccum line, but someone probably knows for sure. That's what I did two years ago and I haven't had any issues.

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post #4 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 08:32 AM
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It might be overkill, but I run a filter on the overflow & vent lines.
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post #5 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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well the service manual i have explains the CA model... unfortunately it doesnt say much about not having the charcoal canister.

i figured that the non ca models just have the vent tube down where all the other vent tubes are, and then all the necessary vacuum ports are capped off.

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post #6 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 10:26 AM
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check in the helpful topics thread. plenty of info there and what exactly you need to do in order to remove the stupid thing.

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post #7 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 10:58 AM
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Pull it all, cap the vacume T at the throttle bodies and let the rest hang down by the battery vent, at least thats what I did


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post #8 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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that is what i figured.... that will give me a project... charchol canister removal, and the extra non necessary stuff for the flapper system.

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post #9 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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ok one last question.

As far as capping off the vacuume line... can i just disconnect the lines from all 4 throttle boddies and put caps on each of the individual ones... or do all those ports need to be centrally connected? this is for the evap purge line.

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post #10 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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ok one last question.

As far as capping off the vacuume line... can i just disconnect the lines from all 4 throttle boddies and put caps on each of the individual ones... or do all those ports need to be centrally connected? this is for the evap purge line.

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post #11 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 08:53 PM
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I would think as long as the vacuum is sealed you are good

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post #12 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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I would think as long as the vacuum is sealed you are good
i just didnt know if it was designed that way so that vacume was the same on each of the tboddies... as they are all connected by that one main fitting.

i highly doubt it makes a diff where i plug it off at, hell the NON ca bikes probably 1 dont even have the nipples, or 2 are capped off individually.... maybe someone with a non CA bike could chime in?

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post #13 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 10:57 PM
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post #14 of 67 Old 07-09-2010, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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ya... im just saying all that says is to cap off where the red arrow points in the pic below.

I wanna cap off at the nipples (green) ... but i dunno if for what ever reason having all those vacume nipples linked by they main fitting (blue) is necessary or not on the CA models.... i hightly doubt it is, but you never kno.

Im just trying to clean stuff up in there as much as possible. Id love to see what a NON CA model is like.


ALSO, where does that hole up by the gas cap under it... the one on the left side of the hole go?
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post #15 of 67 Old 07-10-2010, 06:33 AM
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Thats your overflow. See post #4

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post #16 of 67 Old 07-10-2010, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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thats what i figured. so any comments from non CA models in regards to my picture above?!?

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post #17 of 67 Old 07-10-2010, 08:26 PM
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I can't find it now, but someone posted your picture and instructions on removing it.

I didn't touch anything you have circled in your photo.

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post #18 of 67 Old 07-10-2010, 08:26 PM
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Right.
Per above, I followed these instructions:
https://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...html#post29960

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post #19 of 67 Old 02-21-2011, 06:13 PM
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THANKS, Everyone! All my questions I was ready to ask were just answered! Of all the 919's in the world, I ended up with a California bike! Go figure! YES, that cannister is VERY UGLY! It's coming off this week!


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post #20 of 67 Old 02-21-2011, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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THANKS, Everyone! All my questions I was ready to ask were just answered! Of all the 919's in the world, I ended up with a California bike! Go figure! YES, that cannister is VERY UGLY! It's coming off this week!
if you have any other questions feel free to ask... since i have removed the canister i havnt had any problems.... and it looks SO MUCH cleaner without the canister, purge valve and excess pipes all over the place.

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post #21 of 67 Old 02-21-2011, 09:12 PM
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Thanks! I'll be sure and let you know how it goes. I knew something was up with this 2004 when I got it, after I noticed the silver Y-Pipe and that unsightly canister. Quickly figured out it was a California bike. Had I noticed that stuff when I looked at it, I probably wouldn't have bought it. Too much of a hassle to remove the y-pipe! I have a non-cat Y-pipe waiting to go on, just need to do it.


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post #22 of 67 Old 02-21-2011, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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hey hey hey.... dont bag on the ca 919 ... just as fast as the non ca... the cat does nothing to power delivery or restriction of exhaust

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post #23 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 06:40 AM
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I know, I ride one. But the less restriction in ANY exhaust, be it bike or car or lawnmower, it will still improve flow. So to me it makes no sense adding aftermarket slip-ons and leaving the cat. When was the last time you saw a Pro car at the drag strip with cats? So no, I have nothing against Cali bikes, but wouldn't have bought one intentionally only because it will require time and patience to remove the CA restrictions and EPA stuff not required in any other state.


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post #24 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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I know, I ride one. But the less restriction in ANY exhaust, be it bike or car or lawnmower, it will still improve flow. So to me it makes no sense adding aftermarket slip-ons and leaving the cat. When was the last time you saw a Pro car at the drag strip with cats? So no, I have nothing against Cali bikes, but wouldn't have bought one intentionally only because it will require time and patience to remove the CA restrictions and EPA stuff not required in any other state.
haha so true. where did you manage to get a non CA y pipe?

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post #25 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
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haha so true. where did you manage to get a non CA y pipe?
...a screwdriver, a hammer, and 10 minutes of your time later....

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post #26 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 05:49 PM
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You can purchase them from any Honda dealer, but would have to have it shipped to a friend outside Cali. But here, if you order the Y-pipe for 2002-2005, they are ALL black with no cat, but the 06 & 07 are all stainless with a cat.

SO, if you find anyone parting out a 919 (like I did, right here on WT), as long as their bike has the flat black Y-Pipe, it's worth buying! This guy didn't even realize his had no cat until I mentioned it to him, then he looked and said "You're right!".

Found mine here in the classifieds from an 03. Last one I got for my 07 I found here on WT also, from a guy who bought his brand new from his Honda dealer but sold the bike before he installed it, so he sold it to me for $75 since it was still brand new in the original box from Honda.

As for punching them out with a screw driver, that's the ghetto way of doing it. You never really get it all out, and risk denting the ends and making the pipes not fit anymore. I'd just find a black one and offer the person $50 for a used one. That's a fair price only because a brand new one is only like $120.

To be sure you're getting the right one and the seller's bike is not a CA bike, just ask them what color the Y-Pipe is: black is good, stainless is bad.


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post #27 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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eh.... im a cheap ass... rather put the 50 bucks twords gas to ride the thing... then have the extra .2 hp.

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post #28 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 06:38 PM
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Not cheap, frugal....it sounds better.


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eh.... im a cheap ass... rather put the 50 bucks twords gas to ride the thing... then have the extra .2 hp.

Spoiler:

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post #29 of 67 Old 02-22-2011, 07:17 PM
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Hey, I'm cheap too! In fact I haven't worked in over 2 years. But I prefer to do things right the first time rather than having pieces I didn't get out slowly start to clog my mufflers. Don't worry, you're not the first person to suggest this to me.


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post #30 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 08:04 AM
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It's off!
But I only disconnected the hose up to that electronic valve. Was I supposed to remove that valve too and cap off farther up like VOODOORIDR did above?

I wasn't reading the instructions very much while I was doing it. Guess I'll take it off today. But hey, at least the unsightly can is gone! Now I just need to install the Y-Pipe I bought a couple months ago!

BEFORE:


AFTER:


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post #31 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 08:08 AM
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That thing was unsightly. The only thing that would be useful for would be running drugs. If you are into that.

Spoiler:

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post #32 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 08:13 AM
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You can just cap it off at the valve and everything would be fine but doing it like that would keep me awake at night so I went all the way to the source to remove it.


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post #33 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
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That thing was unsightly. The only thing that would be useful for would be running drugs. If you are into that.
Oh, great! You just divulged our secret to any LEO's who read our posts!


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post #34 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 08:30 AM
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You can just cap it off at the valve and everything would be fine but doing it like that would keep me awake at night so I went all the way to the source to remove it.
I know what you mean! So I just need to cap off the upper end of the throttle body purge tube and simply unplug the EVAP purge control solenoid?

Thanks! I'll do that today.


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post #35 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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I know what you mean! So I just need to cap off the upper end of the throttle body purge tube and simply unplug the EVAP purge control solenoid?

Thanks! I'll do that today.
yup. you can cap it off at the solenoid if you want, but why not take the time to get rid of all the tubing and get 4 small individual vac caps and cap it off at the throttle bodies?

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post #36 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 03:13 PM
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I'm lazy! After taking my tank off last night, I'm not ready to pull it off again. But I will. Yesterday it was almost empty, today it's full. So I just removed the valve and plugged the hose for now. I'll cap the 4 throttle body things in the next couple days.

I'm probably trippin, but it SEEMS like it runs better and has more power all of a sudden! But I'm probably on crack! Everyone has already said there is no performance difference. Guess what I feel is psychological.


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post #37 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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I'm lazy! After taking my tank off last night, I'm not ready to pull it off again. But I will. Yesterday it was almost empty, today it's full. So I just removed the valve and plugged the hose for now. I'll cap the 4 throttle body things in the next couple days.

I'm probably trippin, but it SEEMS like it runs better and has more power all of a sudden! But I'm probably on crack! Everyone has already said there is no performance difference. Guess what I feel is psychological.
what u will notice, as i did today.... dont get shit vacuum caps for the 4 individual nipples.

got on my bike and noticed it wasnt idiling quite right, thought eh its been 2 weeks since i have been on her... must just be me... then out in the twisties i noticed engine braking was a lil less... so i stopped took off my helmet and went... gosh it sounds a lil louder than normal... look at the vacuum caps... every one is split down the side, causing 4 vacuum leaks.


btw, when u got the tank up you should look at taking all the extra vacuum crap off for the flapper valve, and replacing the 4 way T with a 3 way

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post #38 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 05:27 PM
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btw, when u got the tank up you should look at taking all the extra vacuum crap off for the flapper valve, and replacing the 4 way T with a 3 way
Thanks! I'll do that! I installed those pairs block-off plates on my last bike, but since I don't have aftermarket slip-ons on this bike I'm not going to worry about them. But I will cap off a bunch of emission crap since they don't test bikes in Washington.

That sucks about your vacuum leaks! What a bummer, especially way out in the twisties away from home or an auto parts store (I'm guessing).

I always buy those really thick ones. Hey, do you recall the size you needed for the 4 you installed?


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post #39 of 67 Old 03-05-2011, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I'll do that! I installed those pairs block-off plates on my last bike, but since I don't have aftermarket slip-ons on this bike I'm not going to worry about them. But I will cap off a bunch of emission crap since they don't test bikes in Washington.

That sucks about your vacuum leaks! What a bummer, especially way out in the twisties away from home or an auto parts store (I'm guessing).

I always buy those really thick ones. Hey, do you recall the size you needed for the 4 you installed?
thats the thing i bought really thick ones, i just think they were cheap ass rubber. It didnt really bother me to have them leaking... i still beat the hell outta her, i was just glad the cap on the 4 way T wasnt leaking... as that would cause the FPR to get a horrible reading, and really mess stuff up haha.

This time round i got nice vinyl ones. they were 1/8th and they had to stretch a lil (all 4 nipples at the throttle bodies and the one nipple for the flapper valve at the 4 way T are all the same...) you could just get a 3 way T or keep the 4 way and cap it off.

5/32nds would probably be the proper size... but 3/16ths would be too big, and 1/8th works.

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post #40 of 67 Old 07-20-2013, 07:11 AM
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thats the thing i bought really thick ones, i just think they were cheap ass rubber. It didnt really bother me to have them leaking... i still beat the hell outta her, i was just glad the cap on the 4 way T wasnt leaking... as that would cause the FPR to get a horrible reading, and really mess stuff up haha.

This time round i got nice vinyl ones. they were 1/8th and they had to stretch a lil (all 4 nipples at the throttle bodies and the one nipple for the flapper valve at the 4 way T are all the same...) you could just get a 3 way T or keep the 4 way and cap it off.

5/32nds would probably be the proper size... but 3/16ths would be too big, and 1/8th works.
Nd4spd, where did you get your vinyl caps? How are they fairing now?

Nd4spd and others, quick couple questions to make sure I'm on the same page with this.

For an easy removal of the can, essentially disconnect all the tubes from the can, remove can, reroute tubes, excepting the one tube that goes to the valve, which you actually just remove, and cap off, like in this photo, yes?



When capping off at the throttle body, do you actually have to remove the entire tank? or will a propping up be sufficient? I don't think i know where the throttle bodies are/ever identified them.

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