900rr header question - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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900rr header question

I bought this header for my 919 and I want to make sure this is the right one.Its supposed to be off a 98 cbr900rr. Can anyone tell from these pics I have. Also it has a bracket on the the end where the slip on goes. It that supposed to be there? misc 027.jpg

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post #2 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 01:05 PM
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well I'm not gonna be too much help in telling you if it's a 98 or not, but I recently bought one just because it was local & cheap. Mine has the mounting bracket for the tail pipe too.

I'll try to post a pic tomorrow & we can compare.

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post #3 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I want to mount the header on the bike but I dont know if I have to cut that bracket off. I dont want to put it on and find out I have to cut it off. Omaha919 does it look similar to this one? I'll you one thing, I mounted on just to see what it looks like=looks good! The only thing which worries me is I started it up and the 900rr header gets really HOT real quick.

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post #4 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 02:55 PM
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Vertical, this might help:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/f94/fin...one-25022.html

Also do a search for '900RR header' on the forums, you'll get LOTS of info.

My 900RR header was a '97, and it did not have that bracket on the end. Check with MarylandMike as he had the same as you and chopped it off and went the slip-on, rather than bolt-on route.

Although you can get the bolt-on can, it just doesn't look as clean to me.

Look at the pics on mine, you can see how clean it can be without that bolt-bracket doo-hickey in the way. I absolutely love this setup, really cleans up the tail, IMO.

Check the diameter of your pipe if you cut it off. Mine was 61mm and required a 63 mm slip-on (there was quite a bit of slack, but when you crank down on the clamp, she tightens up nicely; I didn't put any gasket or sealer on there, either).

You can also get the shorter GP can style like I did, or get a Black Dragon can (check youtube, just search 919 900rr black dragon, awesome vids there) and there are some Chinese carbon fiber knock-offs that you can get for pretty cheap that actually sound pretty good.

Pretty much any exhaust can, with 63mm inlet and built for liter bikes will do you. Double check your measurements, though, don't buy on my word.

It helps IMMENSELY, to have a Power Commander, though. Without the proper map, your bike can and probably will run like crap after such a drastic change to the exhaust. Less restriction, you might get more popping on deceleration, etc. If you haven't done flapper mod and removed PAIR valve, do that while doing this mod as well, that will help a bit.

Hope that helps.

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post #5 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 03:12 PM
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Googl3it pretty much summed it up. I would just cut off the end bracket, about an inch from the end and then you can run a slip on. Also, on mine I did cut off the mount tab and then just re welded it back on once the header was fitted properly.

BTW headers do get hot fast when running.

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post #6 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 03:13 PM
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I'd strongly advise you to use a sealant between the slip-on and pipe - Permatex Ultra Black is recommended (and supplied) by 2-Brothers and I used this on my Yoshi slip-ons. You can order a small tube in the USA from the 2-bros site or try your local auto store.

Linky:

Two Brothers Racing, add an item to your shopping cart:

By positively sealing the join with a smear or sealant you'll avoid any chance of air induction at the join and drastically eliminate popping - the PAIR injection is a regulated, controlled popping and should not be really loud - if you are getting a lot of crack-snap-pop it will be a leak in the system - typically between the muffler and the mid-pipe.

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post #7 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 03:29 PM
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Vertical, I used a '99 900RR Header and it looks mostly the same as yours, but it appears to me that the end of yours where the can goes on is shorter and may have been previously modified.

This is the thread I wrote when I did mine.
https://www.wristtwisters.com/f94/900...can-16309.html

Here is the pic of mine just before I cut it. There is a good 4"-5" between the flange and where the pipe starts to bend.


On yours it looks like only about an inch or so and a kind of sloppy weld at the flange which makes me think it could have been modified previously. If you cut yours off, you will almost be into the bend when you slip your can on (if you go with a slip on).

Hope this helps and good luck!

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post #8 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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It looks like Im going to cut off the bracket. I only have a angle grinder but that might do a crappy job. I think it will look better without that bracket on it too.Also do those pc3's do they come plug&play or do you have get them remapped for this setup? I greatly appreciate all the help.

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post #9 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 06:41 PM
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The power commander you can upload maps to it through a laptop or computer. Laptops make it much easier of course, as you can do it while it's still on the bike.

It took me about an hour to install it.

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post #10 of 25 Old 09-27-2010, 07:59 PM
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BTW, have had excellent results with the VHT Flame proof header paint.....

VHT SP117 Flameproof Flat Alum High Heat Header Paint


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post #11 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a can of that as soon as I got the header. As for leaning out or to rich, I'm not much of a mechanic. Anyone know the cheapest site to buy a power commander 3. I'm kinda low on funds. Thanx

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post #12 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertical919 View Post
I bought a can of that as soon as I got the header. As for leaning out or to rich, I'm not much of a mechanic. Anyone know the cheapest site to buy a power commander 3. I'm kinda low on funds. Thanx
I believe the 900rr header setup will actually make you run a bit leaner. Not 'lean', as the 919 runs rich from the factory, but it will run leaner than stock. I think you'll be ok, but you'll miss some power gains you could have by getting a PCIII USB.

Keep a tight eye on the classifieds here. I picked mine up from another WT member for $125.

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post #13 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
I believe the 900rr header setup will actually make you run a bit leaner. Not 'lean', as the 919 runs rich from the factory, but it will run leaner than stock. I think you'll be ok, but you'll miss some power gains you could have by getting a PCIII USB.

Keep a tight eye on the classifieds here. I picked mine up from another WT member for $125.
I didn't add a PCIII after switching to the 900RR setup. I took it to a dyno and they said I didn't really need it as the A/F Ratio was still in the slightly rich range. As g00gl3it says the PCIII will help you get maximum performance, but since I have a red 919 it was already too fast anyway.

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post #14 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
I didn't add a PCIII after switching to the 900RR setup. I took it to a dyno and they said I didn't really need it as the A/F Ratio was still in the slightly rich range. As g00gl3it says the PCIII will help you get maximum performance, but since I have a red 919 it was already too fast anyway.
Can you please give me a range of where 'too fast' lies? Mine is red as well. Wouldn't want to break any barriers ;-)

On a note, I am not sure what kind of power increase MarylandMike saw, but I noticed a small power difference when adding the Sato pipes that I had, and hardly any when I added the PC (smoother power curve is all I really noticed). I noticed a substantial increase with the 900rr setup; however, since I can't compare the setup to a non-PC bike (without removing my own PC) it would be interesting to know the differences.

Maybe you can let us know if you get your 900rr header on before you put in a PC3. Let us know if you eventually get one and if you notice any increases in power or smoother power.

For the sake of science, of course, not to break any speed barriers.

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post #15 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Can you please give me a range of where 'too fast' lies? Mine is red as well. Wouldn't want to break any barriers ;-)

On a note, I am not sure what kind of power increase MarylandMike saw, but I noticed a small power difference when adding the Sato pipes that I had, and hardly any when I added the PC (smoother power curve is all I really noticed). I noticed a substantial increase with the 900rr setup; however, since I can't compare the setup to a non-PC bike (without removing my own PC) it would be interesting to know the differences.

Maybe you can let us know if you get your 900rr header on before you put in a PC3. Let us know if you eventually get one and if you notice any increases in power or smoother power.

For the sake of science, of course, not to break any speed barriers.
I only paid $50 for the dyno so I didn't get any printouts and stuff, and he just checked the A/F ratio at a few points over the range....Idle and cruising at 70 was 13.5 and WOT dropped to 12.7 but then popped back up to 13.5, so it was just a little rich. Without the PCIII I may have lost a little on the low end but the exhaust note makes up for it. Really hard to tell with the seat of the pants. My only goal of the dyno was to make sure it hadn't gone too lean and damage the engine.

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post #16 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
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I cut that flange off today,the weld job looked liked crap the more I looked at it. The only thing Im going to have to weld this piece onto the header. I wish I would bought a new one from DELK, this would've been alot easier. The only thing is that the pipe is 2 and half inches round. Will a slip on fit on this or do have to reduce the diameter? Sorry for all the questions, you guys been alot of help and I relly appreciate it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 900rr 001.jpg (147.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 900rr 002.jpg (110.8 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 900rr 003.jpg (126.6 KB, 4 views)

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post #17 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 05:03 PM
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2.5" is the outside diameter? or inside? 2.5" is 63.5 mm.

I believe the inside diameter should be 61mm. Do you have digital calipers you can use to measure?

The slip-on can I used was 63mm inside diameter (I think), so I'm not sure if that would fit. It does have expansion slots cut into the side, so you could *make* it fit, although it might be tough and wouldn't be pretty.

If the inside diameter of the piece you're welding on is 61mm and the inside diameter of the can is 63mm, you should be alright.

Or, find a mid-pipe section of another header and whack this one off farther back and weld that on.

Or, find a new set of headers. The farther you go, the more work (and $) it is to backtrack. You won't regret buying the Delk's, but your wallet might.

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post #18 of 25 Old 09-28-2010, 08:27 PM
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Not really a huge job - consider this:

I recommend you get your muffler (slip on) before going any further.

Once you have it obviously the ID of the slip-on inlet is what the OD of the mid pipe needs to be allowing a slip fit.

Mount the header as is.

Jerry rig up the muffler where you want it - use the hanger and some wire to get it fitting where you want it.

The secret is to now fabricate a joiner pipe that will go inside the slip-on inlet (NOT over as it will leak) and butt join or go over the end of the header.

A muffler shop will be able to sort this for you or you can buy pre bent bits from them or even get a length of straight pipe and play with it.

Lets say the muffler inlet is 50mm and the header ends at 63 - grab a bit of 50 mm pipe and have them swage it up to slip over the 63mm. Take this home and slot it over the header outlet - chances are it will not match the muffler - you can make a series of cuts (V's) in the back of the pipe and curve it around until it is a neat fit with the muffler.

Yep, this will look like a hacksawed piece of shit. Take this horrid looking but perfect fitting piece of pipe back to the muffler shop and ask them to bend and swage up a clean tidy perfect replica. This is the bit you will weld to the header.

Alternatively bend a piece of say 5mm rod along the centre line of where you think the perfect joiner pipe should be - take this to your muffler shop - see if they have a pre-bent piece of pipe that pretty much matches (in this example a 50mm pipe) -if so it will just need trimming in the correct places and swaging to go over the header outlet (or but join and weld in a tidy manner) going over will be stringer and easier to weld.

And remember - black paint will hide anything!!!!!!! Bawahahahahaha

A long winded post but pretty simple application.

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post #19 of 25 Old 09-29-2010, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Talked to a guy at a local muffler shop. He said when I get the slip on muffler, which I ordered yesterday, bring the header to him and he will see what he can do. So I'll have to wait till then.

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post #20 of 25 Old 01-12-2011, 02:09 PM
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You ever get this set up?

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post #21 of 25 Old 03-04-2011, 01:01 AM
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CB919 exhaust mod with CBR900RR headers & IXIL muffler

Hi folks - new member here. I just did the CB919 exhaust mod with 1999 CBR900RR headers & an IXIL muffler ... which just bolts on to the existing 3-bolt flange. The bracket you mention misses everything under the motor & centre stand mounts. There's a load of stuff on the internet on the mod - including U-Tube videos of the tricky bits like Y-pipe removal etc. Here's some pics of the job. Sounds awesome btw ... just waiting on a Power Commander to finish the job. If anyone has a PCIII map for a similar setup pls share!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Midway - All stripped down.jpg (124.3 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg New tail setup and headers rear shot.jpg (138.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Side shot - new muffler & headers.jpg (122.7 KB, 47 views)

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post #22 of 25 Old 03-04-2011, 05:17 AM
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Nice job Solly, looks great. Post up a sound clip or vid if you can. I'd love to hear that can.

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post #23 of 25 Old 03-04-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sollys View Post
Hi folks - new member here. I just did the CB919 exhaust mod with 1999 CBR900RR headers & an IXIL muffler ... which just bolts on to the existing 3-bolt flange. The bracket you mention misses everything under the motor & centre stand mounts. There's a load of stuff on the internet on the mod - including U-Tube videos of the tricky bits like Y-pipe removal etc. Here's some pics of the job. Sounds awesome btw ... just waiting on a Power Commander to finish the job. If anyone has a PCIII map for a similar setup pls share!!
Nice setup! Your engine is SICK! Did you paint that or is that powdercoat?

Oh, and the y-pipe vid you saw on YouTube was probably mine.

Did you see my thread here from my conversion?

My 2007 919 was Dyno'd after the 900RR setup with Scorpion can and yes, I do have the map for that if you'd like a copy.

Just remember I'm at 5000ft elevation; take that into consideration. PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.

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post #24 of 25 Old 03-05-2011, 03:09 PM
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Yep g00gl3it was your vid I was referring to Very helpful btw ... even tho I had a hydraulic jack I nearly dropped the bike off the stand getting that Y pipe out lol Thats how the engine came in Australia ... does look good I agree I will send you my email for that map - much appreciated.

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post #25 of 25 Old 03-08-2011, 09:07 AM
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yea its a awesome swap i did mine and love the look and performance!!

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