600 mile service - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 05:44 AM Thread Starter
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600 mile service

I just wanted to ask for my information what the experiance guys here do at 600 miles with their bikes.

Me. I change the oil and I tightend the bits that were mentioned in the very helpful sticky. That's all I did and it runs great.

Some people say that I should take it to a dealer and pay $300. So they can "check my airfilter" and "lube my chain".

So, what do you guys do?

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post #2 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 05:45 AM
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Changed the oil & filter.

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post #3 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 06:30 AM
 
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One thing I do is pre-oil the oil filter before intallation. I measure out 4 ounces of oil and pour that amount in to the filter and work it in to the media.
After the media has absorbed that amount of oil, I install the filter and subtract the 4 ounces from the total amount of oil required for an oil change.
I then fill the crankcase with the balance.

This reduces the amount of time for the system to pressurize after a change (I know, it's only a second or two decrease in pressurization time, but these machines are not cheap). I change oil every 500 miles, too. Anal? Yes. Super long engine life? Yes. Diminished returns because of frequency of "running dry" after engine start up? Perhaps. My bike, my money, my illness.....

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post #4 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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I put some oil around the seal of the filter but I never thought of prefilling it. I'll try that next time, but every 500 miles? That's the most super anal thing I've ever heard!

Thanks for the tip anyway.

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post #5 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:13 AM
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So, Mr. Anal please tell us the total volume of oil you add each 500 miles?

Here are my calculations.

Oil change including filter is 3.8 quarts
32 oz. = 1 qt.
121.6 oz. = 3.8 qts. minus the 4 ounces you add to the filter. = 117.6 total ounces per oil change.

Be careful not to overfill your motor, it might blow up!!!

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post #6 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Maybe he has the star wars anti missile lazer system vaporise the bugs before they hit his bike as he goes down the road.

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post #7 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:22 AM
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dang I thought i was bad for every 2-3k miles, I'd be changing oil every 2 wks, how much riding do you do rickmears?

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post #8 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:27 AM
 
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That does sound a bit anal.......if you multiply the "reduced" starvation time by the number of extra oil changes that would equal if not surpass changing the oil on a more reasonable interval.........just my two cents.

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post #9 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:29 AM
 
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Oh, and to answer the question I changed my oil / filter, cleaned and lubed the chain, checked the coolant level, and gave the bike a good "once over".

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post #10 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:33 AM
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At 600 miles I changed the oil and filter and went over various nuts/bolts/things that fall off. Other than that, nothing.

Pre-filling the oil filter is a good mechanic trick with filters that go on vertically. Horizontal filters are tough to get enough in to make a difference.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #11 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:34 AM
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A little more info. to chew on. We all know that Repsol full synthetic is one of the finest oils money can buy. I'm sure rick would settle for nothing less. Lets assume 10,000/year at 500 miles/oil change + filter.

Here is the math:
$40 oil + $10 oil filter every 500 miles. x 20 = $1,000 per year total cost. Ouch!!!

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post #12 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m51142 View Post
So, Mr. Anal please tell us the total volume of oil you add each 500 miles?

Here are my calculations.

Oil change including filter is 3.8 quarts
32 oz. = 1 qt.
121.6 oz. = 3.8 qts. minus the 4 ounces you add to the filter. = 117.6 total ounces per oil change.

Be careful not to overfill your motor, it might blow up!!!

If you're going to be that picky you might as well change out the muffler bearings and flux capacitor as well.




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post #13 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:43 AM
 
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Quote:
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If you're going to be that picky you might as well change out the muffler bearings and flux capacitor as well.
You only have to change the flux capacitor if it is not producing 1.21 "jigawatts" of power..........McFly.

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post #14 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadogs View Post
If you're going to be that picky you might as well change out the muffler bearings and flux capacitor as well.

I love it!! That big speaker was the best wasn't it!!

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post #15 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 09:33 AM
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"What the hell's a jigawatt!"

It's a fool who looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart.
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post #16 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razorbike View Post
"What the hell's a jigawatt!"

It's the amount of wattage coming from a speaker when getting "jiggy wit it"




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post #17 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 10:15 AM
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One tip I read somewhere...when starting the bike after the oil change, just bump the starter a few times without actually starting the bike. When the oil pressure light goes out in between your gages, let the bike fire up. The oil should be moved through the system and you have less of a chance of metal to metal contact. Could be an old wive's tale, but it makes me feel better...

-Joe
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post #18 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 02:44 PM
 
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Well, since I'm on double secret probation, I don't get to ride much. Plus, I have 3 bikes, so the mileage is spread.

I dump 3.7 quarts of GN4 10w-40 in the crankcase.

I use Mobil One in my Harley, and Yamalube in the RD400.

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post #19 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooker_47 View Post
One tip I read somewhere...when starting the bike after the oil change, just bump the starter a few times without actually starting the bike. When the oil pressure light goes out in between your gages, let the bike fire up. The oil should be moved through the system and you have less of a chance of metal to metal contact. Could be an old wive's tale, but it makes me feel better...

Little tough to do on mine unless you want to start pulling fuses, plugs wires, or something that will keep it from starting. If you hit the kill switch it won't turn over. And if I "bump" mine it starts.
I think I'd rather get it running and get the oil to it instead of turning it over on the starter anyway. I think coming online and pumping oil is better than several bumps.

The worst time for a sound motor is usually startup/shutdown. Large air conditioning compressors have electric driven oil pumps that start before the compressor starts and run until shaft coastdown. Don't know why transportation engines don't have this. It would mean more electrical load, but less frictional loss. I always wondered the same for car radiator fans, and they have now gone electric. Maybe oil pumps will someday.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-17-2006, 10:00 PM
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Nothing at 600 miles. I take it easy for fifty miles or so then change the oil, filter and ****can it.

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