LDH - Question about CBRs, exhaust and rear shocks - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-20-2012, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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LDH - Question about CBRs, exhaust and rear shocks

Since you ride CBRs and spend time on the track:
The '08-'12 CBR-1K, with its large low-mounted muffler, bakes the living hell out of the rear shock. Fade issues come calling, and don't leave until well after you leave the track for the day.

Is there a way to insulate the rear shock area?

Is there any viable alternative to replacing the OEM muffler? I don't need more HP (or more noise) to go faster... what I want is a rear shock that's not baked.


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post #2 of 18 Old 05-20-2012, 09:13 PM
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Ohlins-Corning insulation?

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post #3 of 18 Old 05-20-2012, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Ohlins-Corning insulation?
You funny - I keel you last!

You are actually on to something, though.
Aluminized Heat Barrier

I'm betting the Ohlins TTX would fade a lot less under heat than the Showa Balance-Free unit.

Insulate the OEM unit for under $100, and maybe put the savings toward a TTX.
The other option is to pay for a decent slip-on and wrap it (the pipe, not the muffler). The Akra unit, for instance, is much smaller and easier to insulate than the OEM unit it replaces.


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post #4 of 18 Old 05-21-2012, 02:59 PM
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You can use heat shielding where applicable, but 2 things immediately come to mind.

1. The OEM shock sucks to begin with and is not valved for track riding period so it is going to go off with or without added heat from the exhaust in a matter of minutes at track pace. Replace the OEM crap shock first and see how it fares against the heat you are blaming

2. If your concerns with exhaust heat are validated then swap out the OEM exhaust for a race can. Aftermarket cans always run cooler, dissipate heat quicker & decrease operating temps over the restrictive OEM exhausts.

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post #5 of 18 Old 05-21-2012, 05:06 PM
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Would wrapping the header and mid pipe help?

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post #6 of 18 Old 05-21-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crakerjac View Post
Would wrapping the header and mid pipe help?
No - the OEM muffler would just run hotter then.

The muffler wraps around the area that the rear shock is in, radiating heat to the shock.

After a ~15 minute session on the track at my slow pace, the rear shock got up to 190+ F.
Even with rebound damping set to full on, the back was still popping up like there was NO rebound damping
When cold, it was behaving much better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
... Replace the OEM crap shock first and see how it fares against the heat you are blaming
That crossed my mind. A couple times.
The downside is the price of trying that out is ~$1,200

For a slip-on, what is your opinion on who makes the better units?


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post #7 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 08:58 AM
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The best Slip-on I have seen tested is the ARATA. It was producing a full 6hp gain (without the aid of fuel mapping) and positive gains throughout the entire rev range equal to many of the high end full systems.

Unfortunately they are no longer available and didn't sell very well when they were...

New Arata Slip-on

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post #8 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
...
Unfortunately they are no longer available ...
Well, poop.
It's a good looking system. How does it sound?


Again - I don't need more power to go faster, and since this is also my daily commute vehicle, quiet is good.

If you were limited to only the systems that can be had, which one would you open your wallet for?


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post #9 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 09:56 AM
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Kind of a tough decision, but I would personally most likely spend a few extra bucks and get the Akra Slip-on in Carbon

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post #10 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
... get the Akra Slip-on in Carbon
Yea, I have been looking at the Akra units. Their street-legal version has a 6K RPM dB level listed that is equivalent to the OEM unit.

It's not cheap, though! I can understand why a lot of people run the much cheaper 'Open' unit on the street ($300-$400 difference!).

Spending that kind of coin... it's probably best to spend it on an Ohlins shock first and live -w- the heat for a while longer.

No sure, but I think someone suggested that recently, no?



Do you have ANY idea what temps your rear shock normally runs at?
...what it runs at for normal folk?

I'll start carrying the IR thermometer so I can keep notes on mine.


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post #11 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 12:04 PM
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Running temps vary, but general speaking you won't really experience noticeable amounts of fade until about 300 degrees

If the valving is crap to begin with then any further degradation in performance would be much more apparent.

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post #12 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Running temps vary, but general speaking you won't really experience noticeable amounts of fade until about 300 degrees

If the valving is crap to begin with then any further degradation in performance would be much more apparent.
Mind boggling.
Knowing how cool mine run on the 919 and GSX-R750 just further underscores how slow I am!

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post #13 of 18 Old 05-23-2012, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
... general speaking you won't really experience noticeable amounts of fade until about 300 degrees
...
Whoa...

That's the expected behavior with an Ohlins shock?




(if so, that's very damning info about the OEM Showa unit)


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post #14 of 18 Old 08-18-2012, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well folks, it's been a few months since I upgraded the rear shock.
Perhaps the best way to describe the difference is the bike went from having a LIVELY rear end to so boring you don't notice it.

Ohlins TTX


My suspension guy has replaced & characterized at least two '12 CBR 1000rr rear shocks and they both behaved the same way - they work pretty darned good when cold, yet they fade even worse than the '08-'11 OEM shocks.


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post #15 of 18 Old 08-18-2012, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTraffic View Post


My suspension guy has replaced & characterized at least two '12 CBR 1000rr rear shocks and they both behaved the same way - they work pretty darned good when cold, yet they fade even worse than the '08-'11 OEM shocks.
Oh fvckin bullshit... As a test rider I can personally assure anyone that an Ohlins shock will outperform an OEM shock to an infinite value in any category. This shit is so stupid I don't even know why people bother...

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post #16 of 18 Old 08-18-2012, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Isn't that what I just said?

ETA -
Perhaps I should make it painfully obvious.
"...they work pretty darned good when cold, yet they [the '12 OEM shocks] fade even worse than the '08-'11 OEM shocks."

Clearer?


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post #17 of 18 Old 08-18-2012, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTraffic View Post
Isn't that what I just said?

ETA -
Perhaps I should make it painfully obvious.
"...they work pretty darned good when cold, yet they [the '12 OEM shocks] fade even worse than the '08-'11 OEM shocks."

Clearer?

Yes that makes it much clearer LOL

That is however not how I read your original post and I was about to challenge you to a duel against my wife on my 8 year old 1000RR

Cheers!

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post #18 of 18 Old 08-20-2012, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH

Yes that makes it much clearer LOL

That is however not how I read your original post and I was about to challenge you to a duel against my wife on my 8 year old 1000RR

Cheers!
Good that you specified the duel was to be on a bike. Up to that point, that post was getting rather interesting, lol

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