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post #1 of 31 Old 03-14-2012, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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help confused

Help please very confused I have a 2000 yamaha yzf r6 and ill get on the bike and start it up it runs but ill get off it and it likefalls out of neutral and in to first gear and I was wondering if my clutch is gone or if my gearsare gone? if anyone has run into this problem and was wondering how to fix or any ideas on what could be wrong please help I miss riding

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post #2 of 31 Old 03-14-2012, 09:23 PM
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Welcome to the site!

Have you been putting regular car oil in the bike and/or adjusted your clutch cable recently?

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post #3 of 31 Old 03-15-2012, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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I put car oil in I used royal purple. Do u think I should drain it and try putting in cycle oil?

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post #4 of 31 Old 03-15-2012, 04:11 AM
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Did it have the energy conserving stamp on it? If so, then yes you should change it.

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post #5 of 31 Old 03-15-2012, 04:48 AM
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+1

Make sure that whatever oil you use has a JASO MA rating for motorcycles. They should not have "Energy Conserving" on the label.

There's no need to stick to expensive cycle oil. A lot of us run Shell Rotella T or T6 which are MA certified now and much less expensive than alternatives.

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post #6 of 31 Old 03-15-2012, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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I'll haft to give that a shot cause its march and in Wisconsin were hitting 80 degrees already and I wanna ride

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post #7 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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I was wondering to is it 10w-40 or 20w-40 that I should use

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post #8 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nckrump View Post
I was wondering to is it 10w-40 or 20w-40 that I should use
A lot of use use 5w-40. 10w-40 is what the service manual recommends. Depends on what temperature you plan on riding in.

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post #9 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 10:30 AM
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it's hard to understand the issue from your description very well.
If your bike drops form N to 1st by itself, oil is not your problem. Time to take the cover off and take a look at your clutch

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post #10 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 10:57 AM
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Lol, this whole thread is a joke, right? we've been trolled by a fake noob?





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post #11 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
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Lol, this whole thread is a joke, right? we've been trolled by a fake noob?

.
What I was thinking too!!!

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post #12 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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No joke real problem. I was told to check the clutch spring to see if its busted

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post #13 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 12:07 PM
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Nope. Oil isn't your problem either. Your gearbox (specifically, part of your drum shifter assembly) has failed. Most likely the "down" return spring.

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To everyone else - it would be oil if you put it in first and it acted like neutral (due to car oil poisoning the wet clutch.) This guy's problem is that he puts it in neutral and it drops into first by itself. The wrong oil doesn't cause that to happen, generally. It *can* cause accelerated wear that can cause this to happen, but by the time you see that replacing the oil won't help and it's time to replace hard parts.

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post #14 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Bike started up but when I went to put it in gear it kept turning off like the kick stand was down I tried it 3 times then my battery died, batterys about 4 years old so I'm guessing its shot but has anyone ever have the kick stand sensor go bad or could it haft to do with the neutral slipping into 1st

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post #15 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 09:54 PM
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If the bike slips into first while running on the sidestand, the thing should cut off. In this case the side stand switch is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

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post #16 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'll be on it with the kick stand up trying to ride it and I shift to first and the bike dies like the kick stands down

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post #17 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 10:44 PM
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Okay, it has to be asked though I am pretty sure I know the answer: has this thing ever been dropped or wrecked?

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post #18 of 31 Old 03-16-2012, 11:01 PM
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Yes, your kickstand sensor could be bad. Take it apart and clean it.

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post #19 of 31 Old 03-17-2012, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
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Never dropped and I'm telling the truth. I'm forever cursed with weird problems

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post #20 of 31 Old 03-21-2012, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Idk if this helps but also after a couple rides I've noticed that when shifting the gear doesn't alwase catch like ill down shift from 6th to 5th and when I go to accelerate its like its in nutral and I haft to shift again to get into gear

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post #21 of 31 Old 03-21-2012, 06:33 PM
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Are you baby shifting? If not, im going with auto oil in your case

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post #22 of 31 Old 03-21-2012, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Changed oil back to cycle oil

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post #23 of 31 Old 03-21-2012, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nckrump
Changed oil back to cycle oil
As far as oil goes all you need is an oil with the second number being 40. Doesn't matter if it's 5w-40,10w-40,15w-40 etc. And the JASO stamp has to be on the bottle....very very important for proper clutch function.
If you live in a warm climate and are one of those guys(I am) that changes their oil way before it's used up then use the conventional 15w-40 rotella t oil. It's cheap and meets the JASO spec.
Now if you are gonna run the oil 3000 or more miles on the oil then go with the rotella 5w-40 synthetic. It also meets the JASO spec and is very good oil.
Unless it's on sale there is no need to spend the big dollar those motorcycle oils charge. It's all marketing and you the consumer pay more for it.
The oil companies are trying to brainwash you into believing only motorcycle oil works in motorcycles.
Stay clear of any oil stamped energy conserving or resource conserving. They MAY cause you clutch to slip.

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post #24 of 31 Old 03-28-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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So quick question I decided to just sell the r6 got $1600 for it now the bike I'm looking at is a 2005 cbr 600rr only thing that's kinda weird is that it only has 1602 miles I'm not sure how I feel about this what do you guys think.

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post #25 of 31 Old 03-28-2012, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nckrump View Post
So quick question I decided to just sell the r6 got $1600 for it now the bike I'm looking at is a 2005 cbr 600rr only thing that's kinda weird is that it only has 1602 miles I'm not sure how I feel about this what do you guys think.
look it over, if it shows obvious signs of wear/tear, then yeah i dont think so. what's the asking price on it?

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post #26 of 31 Old 03-29-2012, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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$6000 but kelley blue book has it listed at $4,700

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post #27 of 31 Old 03-29-2012, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreddin Rubber View Post
Stay clear of any oil stamped energy conserving or resource conserving. They MAY cause you clutch to slip.
Actually, most car oils *are* now different, ever since the API SH standard came out (they're up to SM or SN now, IIRC). SG is the last oil type (now discontinued) that was safe for both cars and bikes. Most everything after that has reduced anti-wear additives (not good for your engine or trans on a bike) and friction modifiers to make up for this (which poisons your clutch and causes the slip), all in the name of reducing emissions and increasing fuel economy, engine longevity be damned. While the energy/resource conserving label is a dead giveaway on a non-JASO-MA rated oil, it isn't on all the ones that can shorten your bike's life and poison the clutch. There are car 20W50s out there that don't carry any sort of "conserving" label that *will* poison your clutch.

Diesel oils are now different, too. They couldn't get the newer eco-oils to work in a diesel so they mostly have left that standard alone. So if you have a diesel vehicle, you can't use 'car' oil either - not without damaging your engine.

The safest way to go is with a motorcycle specific oil or one that is JASO MA rated. (There are other JASO ratings other than MA and MB - MA/MB are for motorcycles, the other ones aren't.) Interestingly, motorcycle-compatible oil looks an awful lot (chemically) like diesel oil. Turns out they can be and often are the same - which is why Shell decided to run their Rotella T through the JASO certification for bikes, and is now busily selling the crap out of their product to both diesel owners and bikers. I suspect Chevron may be next to run their Delo oil through so as to compete.

In fact, if you have an older (pre-95) car that you'd like to keep, you may want to run it on diesel oil as well - it has the anti-wear additives that will keep it going longer and doesn't sacrifice anything for the eco-bullcrap.

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post #28 of 31 Old 03-29-2012, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Actually, most car oils *are* now different, ever since the API SH standard came out (they're up to SM or SN now, IIRC). SG is the last oil type (now discontinued) that was safe for both cars and bikes. Most everything after that has reduced anti-wear additives (not good for your engine or trans on a bike) and friction modifiers to make up for this (which poisons your clutch and causes the slip), all in the name of reducing emissions and increasing fuel economy, engine longevity be damned. While the energy/resource conserving label is a dead giveaway on a non-JASO-MA rated oil, it isn't on all the ones that can shorten your bike's life and poison the clutch. There are car 20W50s out there that don't carry any sort of "conserving" label that *will* poison your clutch.

Diesel oils are now different, too. They couldn't get the newer eco-oils to work in a diesel so they mostly have left that standard alone. So if you have a diesel vehicle, you can't use 'car' oil either - not without damaging your engine.

The safest way to go is with a motorcycle specific oil or one that is JASO MA rated. (There are other JASO ratings other than MA and MB - MA/MB are for motorcycles, the other ones aren't.) Interestingly, motorcycle-compatible oil looks an awful lot (chemically) like diesel oil. Turns out they can be and often are the same - which is why Shell decided to run their Rotella T through the JASO certification for bikes, and is now busily selling the crap out of their product to both diesel owners and bikers. I suspect Chevron may be next to run their Delo oil through so as to compete.

In fact, if you have an older (pre-95) car that you'd like to keep, you may want to run it on diesel oil as well - it has the anti-wear additives that will keep it going longer and doesn't sacrifice anything for the eco-bullcrap.
I'm surprised you didn't say that all of the above didn't apply to Harley owners.

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post #29 of 31 Old 03-29-2012, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
I'm surprised you didn't say that all of the above didn't apply to Harley owners.
The clutch part doesn't since they have the old primitive separate transmission (except for on the few VRODs they sell). As for the accelerated engine wear, how could you tell on a Harley? You'd be rebuilding it due to part failure long before you incur damage due to lube failure. :P However, if one should somehow manage to go more than 50,000 miles without a part breaking that necessitated overhaul, they would show increased wear as well.

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post #30 of 31 Old 04-14-2012, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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Decided to sell and im picking up a 03 r1 are there any issues i need to watch for on the r1?

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post #31 of 31 Old 04-14-2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nckrump View Post
Idk if this helps but also after a couple rides I've noticed that when shifting the gear doesn't alwase catch like ill down shift from 6th to 5th and when I go to accelerate its like its in nutral and I haft to shift again to get into gear
It's unfortunate I did not see this thread sooner -- from your description I'd say the shift drum detent spring is broken making positive drum positioning impossible, resulting in the symptoms you describe. An easy fix.

About the R1 you are thinking of: condition is everything. Check for overt evidence of a crash such as fairing pieces missing, bent parts, road rash, etcetera; evidence of abuse including trans problems similar to the R6, unusual engine noises, dirty or metalflaked oil, slipping clutch; engine problems such as coolant in the oil (looks like a weak chocolate shake), low oil or coolant, oil leaks ........ you get the idea.

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