05 cbr600rr track project - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 49 Old 12-27-2013, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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Just took my trusty but aging (48000km with bad clutch)R6 to the dealer and took home a nice 05 cb600rr.
The plan is to make this my new track machine and i will log all updates here.
First thing i did was undress her and see what basic work needed to be done. So i need to change the oil filter and oil image-2125456180.jpg image-136959949.jpg
Also i am going to flush the coolant image-3474190773.jpg

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post #2 of 49 Old 12-27-2013, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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This is how the bike is sitting now after last night.


image-4273697488.jpg

Last night i checked if the full power but only 78kw on paper really was full power. Guess;



image-3373796474.jpg



image-1933761177.jpg

What i did was remove the throttle bodys, took out the intake pipes and remove the restriction shims


image-1050905464.jpg

So the cleared intake pipes went back in and mr cbr is breathing freely again.
Only thing left now is to find out how to shunt the cdi and clear the last 1500rpms in the rev range

I alreaddy added a fixed optimate lead to the battery to keep it healthy (f$cking hiss)

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post #3 of 49 Old 01-02-2014, 08:37 AM
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How big of a difference do the restriction shims really make though?

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post #4 of 49 Old 01-02-2014, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Well in pure hp numbers they cost 11hp. But they make the bike less responsive, a lot! Compare it to an asmathic person so to say.
And as this is my future track bike where i like to have everything on the little 600cc engine sorted and running propperly i do not want shims in my intake trajectory!

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post #5 of 49 Old 01-02-2014, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Purchase of today; nice double bubble windscreen.


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post #6 of 49 Old 01-04-2014, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Got myself a new chain to start a 520 conversion
Sprockets are ordered an should arrive soon.


image-4046888238.jpg

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post #7 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 05:49 AM
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Hey man, a few years back I did the same thing. Took a stock 05 600RR and made it into a track bike. It now serves as a full time racer. I love it! Keep up with the posting. Maybe we can swap info/results.
Much luck!

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post #8 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Hey man, a few years back I did the same thing. Took a stock 05 600RR and made it into a track bike. It now serves as a full time racer. I love it! Keep up with the posting. Maybe we can swap info/results. Much luck!
Will do, uploading pics from my shoppingspree yesterday in a sec

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post #9 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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So as said yesterday i went on a killer shopping spree

But first of all, new filter came in. A kn 204 which is easily removable and can be safety wired


I got myself a stock toolkit as this comes with all the bike specific tools and those can be nice to have on the track


Next thing on my list was a fireblade kill switch, as i planned to upgrade to a quick throttle which renders a large part of the right controls useless.


I also decided to upgrade the stock mc to a radial 19mm so out with the old and in with an 08 GSXR1000 mc. Can anyone confirm this is identical to the cbr1000rr mc?


A few days ago i wanted to test my akra with the db killer that came with it, 4 hours and a lot of cursing later it became clear to me that this is an akra where you can't fit a db killer in, i need a silent exhoust on some tracks, so,

I got myself a titanium laser duo tech.


And while i was at it, i couldn't resist bringing home a set of laser works headers


I only got to fitting the laser, but it clears the battery box only by a few mm




Loads and loads of parts on order and still to come.

Can anyone confirm to me that when using a radial master i best use O7 brake lines due to this cbr being the closest to mine with a radial mc?

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post #10 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 08:59 AM
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Man you DID go on a massive spree. I upgraded my OEM MC to a 09 R6 radial MC and used R6 lines. I did this because the banjo bolt installed vertically on the R6 MC instead of horizontally like the OEM. It worked out fine.

Also if your track day organizers require you to safety wire the oil filter check to make sure if they specify how they want it done. My club requires that we use a hose clamp around the filter and safety wire it to a bolt/frame etc. Even if it has a pre-drilled hole on the nut like the K&Ns. I still get the K&Ns cause that 17mm nut makes it so easy to remove.

What are you going to do with that Akarapovic pipe??

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post #11 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Think i'll keep it for when i sell the bike.
That way i can sell the complete exhaust system from laser seperately.

For the mc id yo go with a single line from the mc and then split or two lines from the mc? How was clearance? Got any pics from the setup?

Here they are fine with safety wiring the nut of the filter, used it on my previous bike as well.

Have you got any other tips or hints concerning the rr?

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post #12 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbiker View Post
Think i'll keep it for when i sell the bike.
That way i can sell the complete exhaust system from laser seperately.

For the mc id yo go with a single line from the mc and then split or two lines from the mc? How was clearance? Got any pics from the setup?

Here they are fine with safety wiring the nut of the filter, used it on my previous bike as well.

Have you got any other tips or hints concerning the rr?
Two lines off the MC. Clearance was fine. The Galfer lines also came with a bracket to help route them. I have pics but not with me here at work. I'll post when I get home.

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post #13 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 03:14 PM
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The two trickiest things I can remember were clip-ons and the Motion Pro Quick Turn Throttle.

If you decide to put clip-ons (if you already don't) go with Woodcraft. I tried Driven, did not fit. Vortex was too close for comfort. Also Woodcraft has a 3-bolt design that will let you slide the clip-on farther down if you want. Since the fork leg tapers down in diamiter its a must.

The throttle was a pain first off because running throttle cables always sucks. But also because the on/off/start switch I bought was generic and needed to be spliced. And figuring out what wire went where sucked big time. I'm not sure if your Fireblade set-up is plug and play. Just because the plug is the same does not mean the wires match up properly. I found this out with my RC51 switch. It plugged in but didn't work. Hopefully you will have less trouble or are better mechanic than me.

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post #14 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 04:23 PM
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ForumRunner_20140108_182001.jpg



ForumRunner_20140108_182021.png



ForumRunner_20140108_182044.jpg


Fairly normal routing. Down off the MC to the bracket (where the OEM clamp was) and then to each side of the wheel. Here my front fever was off because I just installed the forks.

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post #15 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 04:26 PM
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post #16 of 49 Old 01-08-2014, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I am a big fan of woodcraft as well, only thing is that over here they are quite expensive due to taxes.
So if i change clipons go with woodcraft, check

For the kill switch i have the wiring description on 600rr.net

For the mc, i think i am going with the 1 into 2 racing line. This wil declutter the top and give me the same performance as 2 from the mc.

Quick throttl, still in 2 minds. Hrc or aftermarket. Cable routing will be done together with pair removal and power commander install.

Any pics of the front brake reservoir install and clearance?

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post #17 of 49 Old 01-09-2014, 04:12 AM
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My MC didn't come with the cup and bracket so I bought a Brembo MC reservoir from OPPRacing.com and used the Ladybird mounting kit from Kurveygirl.com. The Brembo cup is the exact same one on my RC51, though it doesn't have the B logo. And the Ladybird bracket was fairly easy to install. Looks like you already have a cup and bracket so you shouldn't have to worry about that. Just know that there are options out there if you need to move the cup further away from the MC.

My original intent for this upgrade was to get rid of the clunky box type reservoir that gave me some clearance issues. With the remote res I figured I could mount it in various positions and get better options for clearance.

These weren't all take at the same time so there might be subtle differences but the over all position is the same.

Res 1.jpg

Res 2.jpg

Res 3.jpg

Res 2b.jpg

Res 3b.jpg
This last one also shows a good pic of the Woodcraft clip-on 3-bolt design.

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post #18 of 49 Old 01-09-2014, 04:21 AM
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Another small problem I ran into when I installed the Motion Pro throttle was that because it is a little larger (for the larger reels) it rubbed a little on my air duct covers. This is probably also due to the aftermarket fairings. Not sure that you will run into the same problem if you go with the HRC throttle or if you fairings fit a little different.

The banjo bolt also rubbed a bit at full lock to the right. If you get the 1 into 2 line kit you probably won't have this problem.

I solved both of these problems by zip-tying my old rear shock remote reservoir rubber mounts in between the stops on the frame and lower triple tree. So far it works but it has not been full race tested.

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post #19 of 49 Old 01-09-2014, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Top, exactly the reasons i wanted to go with the 1 into 2 and hrc quick action throttle.
Thanks for confirmaing that.

Look what the mailman brought this morning



The install of these will have to wait untill i get my track fairings as i do not want to drill the stock fairings

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post #20 of 49 Old 01-09-2014, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbiker View Post
Top, exactly the reasons i wanted to go with the 1 into 2 and hrc quick action throttle.
Thanks for confirmaing that.

Look what the mailman brought this morning



The install of these will have to wait untill i get my track fairings as i do not want to drill the stock fairings

Nice! My brake lever guard should be coming in today. My club made it mandatory this year. Somehow, I don't mind.

Glad the info confirmed for you. If I would have known this before I would have gone that route too. But it's no biggie. I like my street bikes to look nice and clean with as little blemishes as possible. But somehow taking a dremel to race fairings and "making things fit" with duct tape and zip ties on a race bike is cool. A badge of honor. It screams I'm a privateer and I'm cool with that.

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post #21 of 49 Old 01-09-2014, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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lol, for me somehow each time something doesn't exactly fit as it should it keeps bothering me untill i can get it solved.

On the R6 this meant having 5 exhaust systems before it was ok

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post #22 of 49 Old 01-10-2014, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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Look what came in my mail this morning

Inside was:
-HRC 4 piece rear brake reservoir

-HRC drain bolt and oil cap


So i can finally do my oil change, for which i got some nice motul comp oil

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post #23 of 49 Old 01-10-2014, 02:41 PM
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Nice! Can't wait to see the reservoir installed. Just got my brake lever guard installed this morning.

ForumRunner_20140110_164105.jpg

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post #24 of 49 Old 01-10-2014, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Nice! Can't wait to see the reservoir installed. Just got my brake lever guard installed this morning.

Attachment 44138
For the reservoir i am still waiting for a rear brake line (braided) and a different connection elbow for the brake pump, that way the line wil point strait up instead of towards the exhaust.

That protector looks like a nice piece, woodcraft quality. Sadly enough they are as good as unavailable over here and if i would order one from the states, the taxes would almost double the price

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post #25 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Another day and some more work done.

Weight comparison Akra vs Laser slip on:
A; 2Kg 341 gr
L; 2Kg 889 gr (including silent insert)
So added a little weight but lost 16db stationary

All fairings and lights have now been removed
-Tail+light; 830 gr
-Passenger seat; 781 gr
-Mirrors; 400 gr
-Side fairings; 1Kg 214 gr
-Bellypan; 860 gr
-Top fairing; 970 gr
-Intake cowls; 291 gr
-Headlights; 1kg 725 gr
-Side cowls under seat; 165 gr
-Supplementary air tanks; 122 gr
-Tank fairing; 1Kg 70 gr
-Various fasteners; 105 gr

When removing the intake tubes i saw you could just unplug the supplementary air tanks, after that i plugged all holes in the tubing and this is the result

I am planning on buying straight intake tubes but this will have to wait as i have other prio's right now. This sollution will have to do untill then.

Further Mr (or Mrs) honda was nice enough to provide us aspirant racers with a fairing stay that can be drilled to hold the BAS


After that just mounted the BAS with 2 new alu bolts and secured it with a little locktight for peace of mind


After that, started her up to ensure everything was still running. No issues whatsoever.
Still getting used to seeing green oil in the sighting glass:drunk:

One question; What are the 2 relays in the headlight for? Can they be removed?

When all this was done mounted the trusty 919, rode it to our local 'track shop' and brought these home


They are a serious step up from the stock ones looking at weight. I will do a full 520 vs stock 525 comparison once mounted. But i can tell you that the front sprocket is verry light

Enjoy, and i look forward to hearing your comments and avice

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post #26 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 12:44 PM
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Oppracing.com has some awesome carbon fiber intakes that I have wanted for a while. If you have the means check them out. I would seriously be jealous if you got them.


CARBON-AIR-INTAKES-TUBES-HONDA-CBR-600RR-2005-2006_1290728460.jpeg

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post #27 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 12:47 PM
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And nice job on the BAS! Mine is just zip tired on right now. Think I'll try your method. Looks so much better. Kinda like to know what you are doing

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post #28 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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And nice job on the BAS! Mine is just zip tired on right now. Think I'll try your method. Looks so much better. Kinda like to know what you are doing
What do you mean with your last sentence? (not native english speeker)

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post #29 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Oppracing.com has some awesome carbon fiber intakes that I have wanted for a while. If you have the means check them out. I would seriously be jealous if you got them.


Attachment 44378
Wow, just checked them out. No need to be affraid of me purchasing these.
To get them over here would cost me upwards of $500 while the fiberglass equivalent here in europe is only about $125. I would never be able to explain that kind of money expense to myself (nor the wife)

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post #30 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 02:31 PM
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What do you mean with your last sentence? (not native english speeker)
Mine looks like a pile of zip ties. While this looks like a nice clean professional job. You look like you know what you are doing especially compared to mine.
It was meant as a compliment.

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post #31 of 49 Old 01-12-2014, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Ah ok, in that case thank you very much,lol.

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post #32 of 49 Old 01-18-2014, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Got some stuff done the last few days, just did not find the time to document it.

First of these came in the mail from the US (as over here, shops don't know what they are)

I plan on using them on all bolts etc that get checked/removed often ie:
-oil cap
-oil drain bolt
-oil filther
-brake claws
I started out with the oil cap


Then i wanted to do some work on my chain and sprocket combo. I went with both front and rear renthal ultralight sprockets (-1/+2) and a regina 520 chain.
I first removed the current 525 combo which alreaddy was in the 15/45 pitch and weighed it

After that i weighed the new combo


Weight saving of 714gr (rotating mass!) not bad for a service item i had to do anyway LOL

When i got the set on the bike i noticed the chain pulled the front sprocket outwards. After some debating in the 03-06 mod section we came to the conclusion that it is propably the chain guide on which the chain lies in rest that takes the combo outwards and pulls on the chain.
Also the regina chain comes with a solid master link. I completely destroyed my chain tool on it trying to flare the rivets. So i will need to find something for that.


Today i went to pick up my engine covers and cotton reels from R&G that just came in




Once home i couldn't resist and had to put them on. They come with a clear manual per cover, all bolts included and the torque settings explained

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post #33 of 49 Old 01-18-2014, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Other side cover

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post #34 of 49 Old 01-18-2014, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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When the wife came home, she brought along my last order from the honda garage.


The elbow from a VTR1000 SP2. This points up straight, routing my HRC rear brake reservoir delete away from the exhaust.



Easy installation, just unscrew 1 screw, pop out the old adapter, check o ring, pop in the new one. Done

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post #35 of 49 Old 01-18-2014, 06:17 PM
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Man love that HRC rear brake res delete kit!

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post #36 of 49 Old 01-20-2014, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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So do i my friend, so do i.
Does anyone know what material the hrc brake lines are made from?

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post #37 of 49 Old 01-21-2014, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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So do i my friend, so do i. Does anyone know what material the hrc brake lines are made from?
Doesn't mather. Lines and holder for the front alone are €250. Not going to spend that kind of monney on a tube.
Also found out the coolant tank is leaking. Some more HRC stuff will be replacing it

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post #38 of 49 Old 01-23-2014, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Today calculated the total weight loss balance: 9kg and 236 gr. Off course fairings will have to be readded and heat shield and rear brake reservoir have to be substracted.

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post #39 of 49 Old 01-29-2014, 12:31 PM
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Hey man I was wondering how you secured the tube on the HRC rear brake reservoir delete kit. It looks kind of tall, did you cut it down any? And do you have a heat shield on your exhaust?

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post #40 of 49 Old 01-29-2014, 02:22 PM
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Dumb question. What is a BAS?



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