WTB: Transmission Gears and rear foot pegs - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 02-16-2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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WTB: Transmission Gears and rear foot pegs

I'm looking for a transmission gear set and shift forks. Especially the forks, as well as the rear foot pegs, I don't need the whole assembly, just the pegs.

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post #2 of 25 Old 02-16-2013, 08:13 PM
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I have 1 or 2 gears you can have for free if you want them? Just pay shipping.

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post #3 of 25 Old 02-16-2013, 11:09 PM
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Now I must ask. What do you need transmission gears for?

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post #4 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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The bike has been popping out of second gear, it used to be only when I was really getting on it and after 8k rpm it would just pop into netrual.

Lately it was been doing it more with less stress and earlier. I think it is more the shift forks than actual gearing. I will post some pics butthe bearing surface of the forks are grooved up pretty good.

I will actually be doing a full engine overhaul as I've noticed pretty bad grooves in several crank bearings and flakes in the oil pan.

It looks like its been oil starved at one point, maybe too many wheelies.

and the foot peg the left side one just fell off one day going down the road.

The bike has around 100k miles and a few trackdays and was ridden hard.

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post #5 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
I have 1 or 2 gears you can have for free if you want them? Just pay shipping.
I'm really looking for a complete set with shift forks. Thanks though

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post #6 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Notice the massive scoring on the forks




its hard to see but there are some scratches in the top right corner of the bearing


notice metal flake in the oil pan above the letters

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post #7 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 02:07 PM
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In order:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
Notice the massive scoring on the forks

The scoring on the inside surface of the forks has nothing to do with the gears -- there is no contact there at all. What you see are the artifacts of rough machining, which is all that is needed there. The critical surfaces are the sides of the forks where they bear against the slots in the gears, which I'm willing to bet are pretty smooth. The symptom you describe is more likely rounded off engagement dogs on the gears.
Quote:


its hard to see but there are some scratches in the top right corner of the bearing


notice metal flake in the oil pan above the letters
The main bearings, however, are more of a problem. They will have to be replaced with select fit replacements. Also, inspect the main journals of the crankshaft. If there is any significant scoring it may have to be replaced. If it is minor enough it may be possible to polish them out and measure for different thicknesses of bearing shells, but that's a job for a shop set up for it: it's all too easy to polish the round away, making for uneven oil clearance and short bearing life.

As to the cause: wheelies are the number two cause. Number one is lack of maintenance, particularly oil changes.

Once the inspections are done you will probably find that considerably fewer parts will be required than you think.

Rob

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post #8 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know, the number 2 gear is definatly worn, more so on the gear (cs-2) than the dogs of (cs-3). If I am reading it right second gear is the far left that is engauged when cs-3 is slid into it.

the crank I pretty familiar with as I have been rebeuilding civic engines for quite a while now, I'll drop it off at a shop to get it checked out. mic it out and find the right bearings and I always plasti gage during install to double check clearance.

I haven't pulled the rod bearings yet But I can just imagine I will find similar wearing and hope the rod ends aren't scored as well.

Rings will get redone as well, I was getting a good bit of smoke on decel recently

as for oil changes I am pretty good at doing them every 3-3.5k miles with a fresh filter.

What I find odd is that second gear is the one with issues when it is the one I actually use the clutch for when shifting, the rest of the gears its drop the throttle and clutchless shift.


I will get pics of the gear and post up what I see.

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post #9 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Here are pictures of second gear counter shaft.





Third gear Counter shaft





first gear on the right


first gear


so pvster, what gears do you have laying around?

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post #10 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 04:02 PM
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wtf. that sucks. very rare for a honda 919 as far as I'm aware

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post #11 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
so pvster, what gears do you have laying around?
Rob is pretty much spot on with his comments. I went and looked at my old gears from my first 919 and they show the exact same issues he described and what I see in the pictures you posted. Even the fork has rounded edges. At this point, they're junk in my opinion and won't do you any good. It's been so long since I looked at them so I apologize for getting your hopes up.

Have you thought about the possibility of picking up a used engine/transmission for the 919? Would it be cheaper and/or less intensive for you? Unless you plan on doing custom work while you're in the internals?

Quote:
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wtf. that sucks. very rare for a honda 919 as far as I'm aware
Rare indeed, but for 100k miles and ridden as hard as he described, can't say I'm too surprised. 100k miles is pretty decent, on top of the abuse, not bad at all. My 2nd gear blew out at less than 30k miles. The dealership suspected someone had installed 900rr internals and was drag racing the bike before reverting it back to stock and trading it in. The clip washers were even worn with rounded edges and showed signs of being removed, but the telltale sign was the gasket used/applied.

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post #12 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 04:38 PM
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900RR internals... interesting... for a more close ratio transmission i assume?

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post #13 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
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900RR internals... interesting... for a more close ratio transmission i assume?
I have no idea. Going off of only the mechanic's speculation, but that'd be my guess as well.

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post #14 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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i found a whole set on ebay from an 02' for 85 plus 25 shipping from ohio, I may jump on those considering its an ohio bike I know it wasn't ridden for half of the year at least. I was looking at whole engines as well, but they are going for 900 plus shipping for a decent one, I'd rather rebuild my self so I know it will be decent.

My current goal is a complete tear down and rebuild of the engine, sand and repaint the tank, new rear cowl, new fender eliminator turn signal as my entire rear is burnt from the exhaust, it even melted the reflectors on my licenses plate. i kind of want to get a decent slip on for it. It also needs a good through deep cleaning, new rear foot pegs for the little lady, she doesn't like the cbr ones on there at all.

I'm curious if the metal flakes are actually from the gears or if I have another major issue I haven't found yet, as they are quite big.

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post #15 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 05:17 PM
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Interesting. I had no similar issues with my 9er. Just over 100k miles and always stayed in gear. Abused in every way possible. I developed a top end knock. Still haven't opened it up to see what the problem could be. I just started riding my other one instead. Way easier. One day......

Spoiler:

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post #16 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 05:38 PM
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Sucks jeef. Hate to ask but what are your oil intervals and oil you're using?

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post #17 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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oil is rotella t6 and generally just over 3k never more than 4k, but as i said before, I do ride the bike hard and the bearing issues likely started after the tranny issues with the sediment in the oil.

I can't blame the bike as it has been ridden and pushed so its bound to happen


I've been on the Triumph 675r a lot recently hence why its time to tear the 9'r down and restore it.

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post #18 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
Sucks jeef. Hate to ask but what are your oil intervals and oil you're using?
from above... 3-3.5k miles


If its popping out of gear i would look elsewhere the the gears themselves.. the drum / forks and ratcheting mechanism would be the ones to have slop in em to allow it to pop out of gear. the rounded dog teeth are just a byproduct of that.

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post #19 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 10:01 PM
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You said the entire rear of the bike was melted. This indicates you've been running lean, way lean. Do you have a PC installed? Aftermarket pipes?

Perhaps the reason as well that you are burning oil, your piston and head have probably been treated to some too high temps and would be more prone to premature failure and wear.

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post #20 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Nah, stock ecm only mod is bafflectomy. I always attributed the heat back there due to the headers being wrapped the whole way to the pipes. Judging by the exhaust stink I still have she is pretty rich like from factory.

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post #21 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
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Nah, stock ecm only mod is bafflectomy. I always attributed the heat back there due to the headers being wrapped the whole way to the pipes.
My headers/y-pipe are also wrapped and zero issues.

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post #22 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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hmmm interesting, will definatly try and get a wide band on it when it is running again to find out, but that mother gets hot back there for sure

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post #23 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 05:30 PM
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it should not be getting hot back there like that... especially with the bafflectomy which will be more free flowing and the pipes would be less hot. i got blinkers right at the ass end of my stock pipes and they dont come close to melting.

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post #24 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 05:34 PM
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it should not be getting hot back there like that...
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post #25 of 25 Old 02-18-2013, 06:00 PM
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