Looking for frame sliders - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for frame sliders

Any suggestions on what best suits the 919? I'm open to used ones if they are out there.

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post #2 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 12:32 PM
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post #3 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Motovation.
+1

Honda CB900F / 919 Hornet Frame Sliders

you will need to drill the frame out to fit the mounting rod, but it isn't too difficult.

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post #4 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 01:46 PM
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post #5 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acall View Post
+1

Honda CB900F / 919 Hornet Frame Sliders

you will need to drill the frame out to fit the mounting rod, but it isn't too difficult.
I have a 919 with the frame holes already drilled out - all you need to do is supply the sliders ...

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post #6 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acall View Post
+1

Honda CB900F / 919 Hornet Frame Sliders

you will need to drill the frame out to fit the mounting rod, but it isn't too difficult.
I feel that drilling and tapping is superior to the pass through rod.
If nothing else it's lighter and more purpose specific looking as compared to a low grade adaptation.

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post #7 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Says that the new version requires no drilling. Bonus. Thanks to all.

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post #8 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oak1971 View Post
Says that the new version requires no drilling. Bonus. Thanks to all.
Meaning the rod is skinny so it fits in the existing hole ?
And therefore weaker.
UNbonus.

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post #9 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Meaning the rod is skinny so it fits in the existing hole ?
And therefore weaker.
UNbonus.
Well yes, there is that.

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post #10 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oak1971 View Post
Says that the new version requires no drilling. Bonus. Thanks to all.
On the Motovation site on the 919 page it says "PLEASE NOTE that drilling/reaming of the frame to accept a 10mm rod is required" Is there a newer version?

Honda CB900F / 919 Hornet Frame Sliders

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post #11 of 26 Old 08-13-2012, 08:22 PM
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just got my motivation sliders a month ago and still had to drill, could use almost any brand slider if got your own rod and ran a die down each side to thread it, was happy with motivation sliders and had great service from them.

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post #12 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Guess I failed reading comprhension. I'm not sure that I want to punch bigger holes.

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post #13 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oak1971 View Post
Guess I failed reading comprhension. I'm not sure that I want to punch bigger holes.
It's not a big deal. The tube the threaded rod goes thru is big enough. Its just the holes at the end. So it's not much to drill.

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post #14 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 12:14 PM
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If I was to buy new sliders I would get the motivation sliders. They look like they are designed the best with the 10mm Stainless steel rod through the frame.

I bought some LSL sliders last year at the MotoGP for my 599. They are engine mounted ones that I know now are bad. since I already paid good money for these....I fit them on my 919. I had to make different spacers then drilled and taped the Frame holes to 10mm. The only problem I can see is that they are high rated engine mount bolt that may not bend in a crash and there for damage the frame. What do you think? should I get lower grade bolts that would bend or do you think I am fine?

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post #15 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
It's not a big deal. The tube the threaded rod goes thru is big enough. Its just the holes at the end. So it's not much to drill.
Ok. That's not too bad then.

Next question, are they strong enough to support the front of the bike when I take the forks off?

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post #16 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowwow View Post
If I was to buy new sliders I would get the motivation sliders. They look like they are designed the best with the 10mm Stainless steel rod through the frame.

I bought some LSL sliders last year at the MotoGP for my 599. They are engine mounted ones that I know now are bad. since I already paid good money for these....I fit them on my 919. I had to make different spacers then drilled and taped the Frame holes to 10mm. The only problem I can see is that they are high rated engine mount bolt that may not bend in a crash and there for damage the frame. What do you think? should I get lower grade bolts that would bend or do you think I am fine?
Grade 8 bolts or metric equivalent are the wrong thing to use for anything but pure tensile loading of the fastener.
Use Grade 5 or metric 8.8.
Cheaper and better for the application.

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post #17 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oak1971 View Post
Ok. That's not too bad then.

Next question, are they strong enough to support the front of the bike when I take the forks off?
Er, yeah, I wouldn't do that!


Save those bolts the tension and stress for when (if ever) they are needed; don't induce weakness by putting stress on them.

Besides, those bolts and sliders are meant to take frontal impact; not sure if they were necessarily (specifically) designed to to handle side or shearing loads directly. And you'd also be lifting by the Delrin sliders - they are not as strong as the bolts and WILL bend/brake.

I'm sure they probably could support the weight, but you're going to induce weakness and stress that could cause problems later.

If you need to raise the bike, put a 3/8's rebar in the center stand holes and put the bike up on jack stands. Then put an A-frame ladder straddling the handlebars and throw a couple of tie-downs under the neck of the frame. You can take the entire front end off of the bike this way; I've done it multiple times.

That last one looks like she's flying!!!
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post #18 of 26 Old 08-14-2012, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Er, yeah, I wouldn't do that!


Save those bolts the tension and stress for when (if ever) they are needed; don't induce weakness by putting stress on them.

Besides, those bolts and sliders are meant to take frontal impact; not sure if they were necessarily (specifically) designed to to handle side or shearing loads directly. And you'd also be lifting by the Delrin sliders - they are not as strong as the bolts and WILL bend/brake.

I'm sure they probably could support the weight, but you're going to induce weakness and stress that could cause problems later.

If you need to raise the bike, put a 3/8's rebar in the center stand holes and put the bike up on jack stands. Then put an A-frame ladder straddling the handlebars and throw a couple of tie-downs under the neck of the frame. You can take the entire front end off of the bike this way; I've done it multiple times.

That last one looks like she's flying!!!
That is cool. My garage has no exposed rafters so I'm going to need to use your method.

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post #19 of 26 Old 08-15-2012, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Grade 8 bolts or metric equivalent are the wrong thing to use for anything but pure tensile loading of the fastener.
Use Grade 5 or metric 8.8.
Cheaper and better for the application.

I was thinking that was the case. I better go buy some 10mm grade 8.8 bolts.

Thanks!

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post #20 of 26 Old 08-15-2012, 02:59 PM
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Hey, it can be worse.
Like when I put 1-4/20 Grade 8 allen head capscrews in the cam towers of my 73 CB750 after camming and springing it.
Then being oblivious to the retaining strength of the case aluminum head and instead using the ideal torque value for the fastener alone.
Getting the picture of the end result ?
Let's just say that this affair ended with me learning about how to install Heli-Coils. I still have the original install kit in the garage, and giggle every time I see it. Ah yes, wistful memories of painful lessons.

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post #21 of 26 Old 08-21-2012, 12:29 PM
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Short rod?

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Originally Posted by heist View Post
just got my motivation sliders a month ago and still had to drill, could use almost any brand slider if got your own rod and ran a die down each side to thread it, was happy with motivation sliders and had great service from them.
I just put on the Motovation sliders on also. Did you have any problems putting on the washers and nuts? According to the instructions, the rod is supposed to be 47cm, but it's actually 46. Just short enough so that the 2 washers didn't fit and the rod's threading didn't go all the way through one nut. I think if it had been 47cm, it would have fit perfectly. Anyway, it's jerry-rigged with some red loctite.

I called Motovation, and they said that it was re-speced to be 46, and that I am the only one that called with a problem.

No one else had problems?

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post #22 of 26 Old 08-22-2012, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tower View Post
I just put on the Motovation sliders on also. Did you have any problems putting on the washers and nuts? According to the instructions, the rod is supposed to be 47cm, but it's actually 46. Just short enough so that the 2 washers didn't fit and the rod's threading didn't go all the way through one nut. I think if it had been 47cm, it would have fit perfectly. Anyway, it's jerry-rigged with some red loctite.

I called Motovation, and they said that it was re-speced to be 46, and that I am the only one that called with a problem.

No one else had problems?
I had the same problem.

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post #23 of 26 Old 08-23-2012, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
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I had the same problem.
I only mention it because you should let them know. I figure if enough people let them know, they'll reorder the rod at 47cm. Maybe then, they'll send me a new rod?

Cuz, you know, squeaky wheel gets the grease.

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post #24 of 26 Old 08-23-2012, 05:47 PM
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Satos Satos Satos

But not mounted to the engine block frame mounting tab.

Instead, with grade 8.8 8 mm allen head capscrews threaded into the frame holes one must open up and then tap.

So easy, so neat, so much lighter.

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post #25 of 26 Old 08-28-2012, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Satos Satos Satos

But not mounted to the engine block frame mounting tab.

Instead, with grade 8.8 8 mm allen head capscrews threaded into the frame holes one must open up and then tap.

So easy, so neat, so much lighter.
I already put on the motovations, but are you saying that all you did was tap the 8mm holes in the frame, and then screwed in the Satos?

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post #26 of 26 Old 10-11-2012, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tower View Post
I already put on the motovations, but are you saying that all you did was tap the 8mm holes in the frame, and then screwed in the Satos?
BUMP


I am wanting to know this too!

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