919 block off plates / weighted bar ends - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 09-07-2010, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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919 block off plates / weighted bar ends

I ended up using caps instead of plates(from ebay). I'll ship the plates and (4)screws for $15. I got Renthals, so I don't need the chrome weighted bar ends. Also from ebay, they are heavier than stock and helped to stop my factory mirror from vibrating. $18. shipped US.

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post #2 of 14 Old 09-10-2010, 06:29 AM
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pics of bar ends?

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-10-2010, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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pic of factory bar ends for comparison

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post #4 of 14 Old 09-11-2010, 02:48 PM
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Are those the good block off plates?

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post #5 of 14 Old 09-11-2010, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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I would rate them as fair, each has one good side. I'd be using them if I didn't round the bolt on the inside right.

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post #6 of 14 Old 09-11-2010, 08:54 PM
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I'll take the block off plates.
PM sent.

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-11-2010, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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block off plates have been sold.

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post #8 of 14 Old 09-15-2010, 02:26 PM
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Just a note for the guy useing the block off plates, make sure you add some type of high temp silicone, otherwise you my get a air leak. after the install. I have the same plates

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post #9 of 14 Old 09-16-2010, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sml2727 View Post
Just a note for the guy useing the block off plates, make sure you add some type of high temp silicone, otherwise you my get a air leak. after the install. I have the same plates
hey mate, i got a mate to cnc smog block off plates for me. I then did four counter sunks for the reed vavle screws. What would be the reason for the air leak?

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post #10 of 14 Old 09-17-2010, 06:24 AM
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I think the air leak his is talking about is from the cheap ebay variety. There is no room for the reed valve screw so you must remove the reed valves. Thus the sealant.

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post #11 of 14 Old 09-17-2010, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmurphy84 View Post
I think the air leak his is talking about is from the cheap ebay variety. There is no room for the reed valve screw so you must remove the reed valves. Thus the sealant.
You are correct sir

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post #12 of 14 Old 09-17-2010, 03:39 PM
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thanks cmurphy64

but cant he drill some countersunks into the plate and keep the reed valves there. thats why semi_gray told me and i think its the wiser option. but hey if it works who am i to say anything

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post #13 of 14 Old 09-17-2010, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veEnom View Post
thanks cmurphy64

but cant he drill some countersunks into the plate and keep the reed valves there. thats why semi_gray told me and i think its the wiser option. but hey if it works who am i to say anything
Yes you can drill some small holes. That is what I did when i had mine made. I also supplied other members with plates and told them how to do it. It's easy. I even marked the location of the holes for them.

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post #14 of 14 Old 09-17-2010, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
Yes you can drill some small holes. That is what I did when i had mine made. I also supplied other members with plates and told them how to do it. It's easy. I even marked the location of the holes for them.
yea its straght forward. i put a miniscule amount of grease on the screws and then carefully placed the plates over it to get the grease marks on the plate. I then took a tiny nail and made the markings. the screws are pretty tiny so using a big drill bit will be forgiving in terms of accuracy of the counterm sunk. fit like a glove.

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