Using Diesel Oil? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Using Diesel Oil?

I've noticed that many of you guys run Rotella T6 full synthetic oil in your bikes. My question is why T6? Isn't it for heavy duty diesel engines? The previous owner of my bike also used T6 and I've continued the trend I'm just wondering the reasoning behind using diesel oil? Is there a difference between that and regular oil? Any insight is greatly appreciated, thanks!

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post #2 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 10:39 AM
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its jaso-ma certified, so its certified okay in a bike with a wet clutch.

My reason for using rotella (I Dont do synth) is its damn cheap and does the job. $15 gal of rotella vs $8/qt of gn4...and they meet the same specs.

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post #3 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 10:44 AM
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No additives for energy savings which wreak havoc on wet clutches
T6 is Synthetic oil for $20/gallon
Gallon jug is the perfect size

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post #4 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 10:56 AM
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I can only find T6 in a 5w40, isnt that to light? I've always put 10w40.

BTW I heard scrubbing in the oil with sand was a good way to ensure even wear as well? Might look into that.

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post #5 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickr919 View Post
I can only find T6 in a 5w40, isnt that to light? I've always put 10w40.
I'd think lighter is better on startup; it'll get up into the engine and get everything coated a lot faster. Once it's warmed up there's no difference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickr919 View Post
BTW I heard scrubbing in the oil with sand was a good way to ensure even wear as well? Might look into that.
Thant's only for track-bikes.

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post #6 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 11:18 AM
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http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Shell-R...-gal./14958327

Anyone try this? Its jaso-ma rated.

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post #7 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickr919 View Post
I'm sure that it would work just fine. T is regular oil, T5 is synthetic blend, T6 is full synthetic. Since they are all so cheap and we're talking about a 5-10$/season difference I always go for T6. Not a scientific reason but it makes me feel better.

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post #8 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickr919 View Post
That's what I use. Usually can find it for $12-13/gal. It's the non-synthetic version.

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post #9 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
That's what I use. Usually can find it for $12-13/gal. It's the non-synthetic version.

That's the stuff. Dont like Walmart? O'Reilly auto will pricematch! I've made my Walmart trip for this decade.

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post #10 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
That's the stuff. Dont like Walmart? O'Reilly auto will pricematch! I've made my Walmart trip for this decade.
Damn, didn't know that. It woulda saved me almost 10 bucks on my last change. What do you need as proof? Just online?

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post #11 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by EscapedLabRat View Post
Damn, didn't know that. It woulda saved me almost 10 bucks on my last change. What do you need as proof? Just online?
That's worked for me, but I'm on a firstname basis with most of the staff at my store.

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post #12 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickr919 View Post

Thats what i have always used in my motos. Great oil.

I used it exclusively in my 04 CRF250X .... top ends are supposed to be rebuilt every 10 hrs of track riding / 50 hr of trail riding.... i went 11 years and probably 800 hrs on an untouched topend / motor before i traded it in and it had just started to show signs of needing a top end rebuild.

That oil is great.

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post #13 of 45 Old 02-12-2015, 04:58 PM
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Regular old Rotella-T here too since its first change back in 2005


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post #14 of 45 Old 04-19-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefsalad View Post
its jaso-ma certified, so its certified okay in a bike with a wet clutch.

My reason for using rotella (I Dont do synth) is its damn cheap and does the job. $15 gal of rotella vs $8/qt of gn4...and they meet the same specs.

I use Mobil 1 high mileage 10w-30. It meets the API standard SG or higher without energy conserving/resource conserving. I found that 10w-40 is to thick, so once the oil is warmed up the transmission shifts a lot rougher. The owners manual also suggests 10w-30.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/art...MA_JASO_MB.php


http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php


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post #15 of 45 Old 04-19-2015, 08:26 AM
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The big thing about Rotella was it had a greater amount of ZDDP
and did not have the energy conserving crap in it.
Shell had to scale the ZDDP back some due to epa regs. It's still good oil.
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post #16 of 45 Old 04-20-2015, 03:26 PM
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Rotella T here also. Can't beat it

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post #17 of 45 Old 04-21-2015, 05:25 PM
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It's all I use in my bikes

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post #18 of 45 Old 04-21-2015, 07:28 PM
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The difference between the syn and non syn for the 919 is probably nil. We're talking 10k max rpm on steel parts. I think the weight should be more of the deciding factor but that's just me. If the coldest riding temp you see is 60*F then 15w40 should be fine. If you ride in the 30s and 40s then the 5w40 probably makes more sense.

Costco sells Delo400 for cheap. 4 gallons at a time lol

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post #19 of 45 Old 04-21-2015, 09:30 PM
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This is great. I have been using the T6 in my Subaru WRX. Works great, less oil consumption on the turbo engine between changes. Now I can just start using it on the bike too.

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post #20 of 45 Old 04-22-2015, 08:26 AM
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Me too. I prefer 5w/40 because I ride all winter and the 5w makes for easier cold weather starts. And if I get to go touring, it's almost always in winter. The diesel specific synthetic is all that's available down here in that weight. I usually get Mobil 1 if it's in stock but I won't hesitate to buy the Rotella T6 especially if it's on sale.
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post #21 of 45 Old 04-22-2015, 03:12 PM
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Straight from the manual. 15w40 is good down to 25℉. 5w30 isn't even listed as a recommendation.

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post #22 of 45 Old 04-22-2015, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
Straight from the manual. 15w40 is good down to 25℉. 5w30 isn't even listed as a recommendation.
That chart pertains to the "recommended oil" next to it.

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post #23 of 45 Old 04-23-2015, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyke1019 View Post

That chart pertains to the "recommended oil" next to it.
Echo echo

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post #24 of 45 Old 04-24-2015, 05:59 AM
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Ive been using Rotella T6 since I had my Land Rover back in the mid 2000's
several LR engine builders always commented on how much better engines that used Rotella looked when doing rebuilds.

I continued using T6 in my Volvo Turbo wagons, and most of my bikes.

T6 is a staple in my garage. I think its hard to find an oil better suited for consistent must platform use.

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post #25 of 45 Old 05-07-2015, 07:18 PM
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FYI, Wal-Mart had a $5 rebate on the Rotella T5 when I picked some up today.

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post #26 of 45 Old 05-13-2015, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txbolt View Post
FYI, Wal-Mart had a $5 rebate on the Rotella T5 when I picked some up today.
Picked up the same thing on the T6 this weekend. They let you do the rebate online too.

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post #27 of 45 Old 07-22-2015, 05:03 AM
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Replaced Rotella T Triple Protection (not available more) on Rotella Rimula R3X 15w40 no problems, i like it.

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post #28 of 45 Old 07-22-2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hookups View Post
Replaced Rotella T Triple Protection (not available more) on Rotella Rimula R3X 15w40 no problems, i like it.
While hunting for another box of T5 0W30 for the cars, I discovered that Shell has heavily reworked their oils range.
I also noticed some 0W40 T6 at Canadian Tire last weekend.

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post #29 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
Straight from the manual. 15w40 is good down to 25℉. 5w30 isn't even listed as a recommendation.
]
I wouldn't want to find out the hard way the difference between 5w and 10w
possibly the difference between a cold start in 25f and a dead battery.
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post #30 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Phenix View Post

I wouldn't want to find out the hard way the difference between 5w and 10w
possibly the difference between a cold start in 25f and a dead battery.
Lol! I seen the oil that came from your bike that you posted. Let's not go there.

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post #31 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 02:35 PM
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post #32 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 03:30 PM
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post #33 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
Lol! I seen the oil that came from your bike that you posted. Let's not go there.
But this is an oil thread. All bets are off - we have to go there.
Your joke is a non sequitur one in that my iron butt oil change interval has nothing whatsoever to do with extreme cold viscosity and its effect on cold starting. Regardless what the book says, 5w makes for easier cold starts.

I do agree and wouldn't run the clutch and transmission in oil lighter than 40 on the back number. Hence the popularity of the 5w/40 diesel oil due to its availability.
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post #34 of 45 Old 07-23-2015, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Phenix View Post

But this is an oil thread. All bets are off - we have to go there.
Your joke is a non sequitur one in that my iron butt oil change interval has nothing whatsoever to do with extreme cold viscosity and its effect on cold starting. Regardless what the book says, 5w makes for easier cold starts.

I do agree and wouldn't run the clutch and transmission in oil lighter than 40 on the back number. Hence the popularity of the 5w/40 diesel oil due to its availability.
Viscosity?? That left about 6k miles ago..

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post #35 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
Viscosity?? That left about 6k miles ago..
Not necessarily. Extensive testing by Iron Butt Rally (11,000 miles in 11days) participants with the help of Blackstone Labs shows viscosity breakdown is not relative to miles ridden. Atmospheric breakdown over time is a larger issue. A bike that sits in the garage and takes 8 months to go 5k is indeed overdue for an oil change. Conversely, the Mobil 1 or Rotella T6 in my crankcase after 5k in 2 weeks is likely good for another 5k. Back issues of Iron Butt Magazine are available. Let me know if you're interested. I digress, again.

The questions at hand in this oil thread are quite simply: (1)Does a cold engine in sub-freezing temperatures start more easily and more reliably with 5w (cold viscosity) as opposed to 10w or 15w? Yes, unequivocally. (2)Is there anything harmful to motorcycle engines in 5w/40 synthetic oils marked "diesel"? No.
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post #36 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Phenix View Post

Not necessarily. Extensive testing by Iron Butt Rally (11,000 miles in 11days) participants with the help of Blackstone Labs shows viscosity breakdown is not relative to miles ridden. Atmospheric breakdown over time is a larger issue. A bike that sits in the garage and takes 8 months to go 5k is indeed overdue for an oil change. Conversely, the Mobil 1 or Rotella T6 in my crankcase after 5k in 2 weeks is likely good for another 5k. Back issues of Iron Butt Magazine are available. Let me know if you're interested. I digress, again.

The questions at hand in this oil thread are quite simply: (1)Does a cold engine in sub-freezing temperatures start more easily and more reliably with 5w (cold viscosity) as opposed to 10w or 15w? Yes, unequivocally. (2)Is there anything harmful to motorcycle engines in 5w/40 synthetic oils marked "diesel"? No.
Believe what you must. To each his own. I would never let my oil turn black. That's just me. As far as cold weather I normally don't ride below 35-40. So the Rotella T is fine for me . 5w just seems to thin for my liking

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post #37 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 07:14 AM
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I'm also the type of person who changes oil every 3k miles. Even on my fully synthentic vehicles. Which they say you can go 10k miles. I'm not buying it. Oil is cheaper than a motor replacement. Plus I drive aggressively which leads to faster break down I would assume

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post #38 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline919 View Post
I'm also the type of person who changes oil every 3k miles. Even on my fully synthentic vehicles. Which they say you can go 10k miles. I'm not buying it. Oil is cheaper than a motor replacement. Plus I drive aggressively which leads to faster break down I would assume
Changing your oil every 3K miles can actually do more harm than good... although in either case it's probably negligible

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post #39 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 07:28 AM
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How so?

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post #40 of 45 Old 07-24-2015, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
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How so?
changing your oil too often will harm your engine | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy
This looks to reference specifically a DI Turbo engine, so YMMV

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