Turn Signals w/ running lights - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 39 Old 11-16-2011, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Turn Signals w/ running lights

Hi Guys,

With the risk of being "slapped" for not searching all the threads, I gotta' ask:

What is the best option to replace the factory turn signals with?

I was watching a few videos on YouTube and apprently the small LED ones are not very bright, and someone might overlook your efforts to get a turn signal across...
Another concern is the "running light" option - I could not find any mini blinkers with that feature - or am I wrong?

I am looking for something as bright as possible, arrowhead shape, black or carbon casing, preferably not clear, for both front and back.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

P.S.: After I see the damage on my bike, I will make sure to ask you folks for parts support - thanks Pvster for you tacho-speedo housing offer - I'll let you know over the weekend!



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post #2 of 39 Old 11-16-2011, 10:59 PM
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hmmm.... for the "BEST/BRIGHTEST" option, you cant go wrong with a set of front turn signals from watsens! they're hella spendy though at $150 for the pair!!! so worth it imo if u want front leds. what's even better is they're flush mounted and specific to the 919. PLUS you can get them wired for running lights as well. for the rear, you can either use your stock rear fender and mount up another set of watsens. if you want arrow shaped or the like for the rear, u cannot go wrong with a set of rizomas. they're also steep but not as bad as the watsens and tend to go for ~$40 per light.

if you buy any standard led signal that is 2 wire, they dont have the running light feature. that is easily fixed by soldering in a diode with an extra wire to convert it into a 3 wire. the thread for that is in the 919 helpful topics section.

P.S. lmk if ur interested in the speedo/tach unit/housing and i can take some pictures for you.

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post #3 of 39 Old 11-16-2011, 11:10 PM
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grab some late model cbr turn signals if you want good quality visible decent looking ones...

if you want running lights you can convert any standard two wire led turn signals into ones with running lights with a couple of diodes.... i need to find that post that i think rob made about it.

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post #4 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
hmmm.... for the "BEST/BRIGHTEST" option, you cant go wrong with a set of front turn signals from watsens! they're hella spendy though at $150 for the pair!!! so worth it imo if u want front leds. what's even better is they're flush mounted and specific to the 919. PLUS you can get them wired for running lights as well. for the rear, you can either use your stock rear fender and mount up another set of watsens. if you want arrow shaped or the like for the rear, u cannot go wrong with a set of rizomas. they're also steep but not as bad as the watsens and tend to go for ~$40 per light.

if you buy any standard led signal that is 2 wire, they dont have the running light feature. that is easily fixed by soldering in a diode with an extra wire to convert it into a 3 wire. the thread for that is in the 919 helpful topics section.

P.S. lmk if ur interested in the speedo/tach unit/housing and i can take some pictures for you.
+1 to all he said. I've seen his Watsens and they're hella bright. See my sig for pics of said Rizoma's. They are probably the second brightest out there and look good, IMO.

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post #5 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 11:56 AM
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+2 for Watsen's. Have them on my 919 and they're nice and bright. Got them wired in as running light as well. Worth it if you can afford it for sure.

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post #6 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
grab some late model cbr turn signals if you want good quality visible decent looking ones...

if you want running lights you can convert any standard two wire led turn signals into ones with running lights with a couple of diodes.... i need to find that post that i think rob made about it.
Ive tried looking for diodes at our equivalent of radio shack, no one seems to know what im talking about. What do these look like? And how do you uae them? Are they spliced into the wiring?

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post #7 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 05:55 PM
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think of a diode as a one way valve for electric current.

these are what you need

Micro 1-Amp Diodes - RadioShack.com

or these

3A Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com

or pretty much ANY standard type diode... radioshack has TONS, if the sales person cant find them for you they are blind and should not be working there.

Below is the diagram on how to wire it up. Note that when you flip the turn signal switch to say the left, It 1. connects the blinker relay to properly send the blinking signals to the left blinker, BUT ALSO CUTS power to the running light wire for the left blinker... so you can actually see it blink.

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post #8 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 07:40 PM
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Custom led magic blinker will also do the trick


Custom LED Magic Blinker Relay - Convert 2 wire LED blinker to 3 wire

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post #9 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boogunoogun View Post
Custom led magic blinker will also do the trick


Custom LED Magic Blinker Relay - Convert 2 wire LED blinker to 3 wire
hmm... pay 30 bucks + shipping for the same thing that 2 bucks in diodes will accomplish.

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New high-speed solid state design is compatible with all flasher relays.

Built-in Stage I Load Equalizer prevents the no-blink or 4-way blink condition.
... what a damn fancy way to say a diode! ... in fact for 2 bucks and change from radio shack, you can build yourself an even higher power handeling version of the thing linked to.

BAH the more i read that page the more i rage!!! i mean its good for people who want an already built package, but for how simple the wiring is i just find it hard to believe people buy it!

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post #10 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
Below is the diagram on how to wire it up. Note that when you flip the turn signal switch to say the left, It 1. connects the blinker relay to properly send the blinking signals to the left blinker, BUT ALSO CUTS power to the running light wire for the left blinker... so you can actually see it blink.
Close ... but no cigar. As it is drawn the circuit will allow the flashers to work, but both the front and rear will stay lit constantly when not flashing, and most states do not allow the rear turn signals to be lit when not signalling for a turn.

Below see a diagram of the original three wire setup and the two wire / diode setup. Notice the diode is installed to block the running light voltage from the rear signal. The connections must be made where the turn signals connect to the harness in the headlight bucket.

Rob
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File Type: jpg turnsignalLEDrunninglights.jpg (27.9 KB, 96 views)

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post #11 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 07:59 PM
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awe crap your right.... in my haste to get to homework, i put the diode on the wrong positive lead. let me edit that

Edited.... MODS PLEASE REMOVE PIC FROM my original post!
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post #12 of 39 Old 11-17-2011, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda ng gingsa View Post
Ive tried looking for diodes at our equivalent of radio shack, no one seems to know what im talking about. What do these look like? And how do you uae them? Are they spliced into the wiring?
if you want some diodes, pm me your mailing address and i'll mail a few over your way.

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post #13 of 39 Old 11-27-2011, 01:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
if you want some diodes, pm me your mailing address and i'll mail a few over your way.
Hey thanks Pvster, missed this one. Lemme make a quick stop to our electronic store again now that I know what I'm looking for. Get back to you if I dont find 'em. Appreciate the love, buddy!

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post #14 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 12:18 PM
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I got flush mount ones off eBay for like $15 but they don't blink they just stay lit and turn off when I hit the blinker haha. Doesn't bother me tho I have an integrated rear light and arms

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post #15 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
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I got flush mount ones off eBay for like $15 but they don't blink they just stay lit and turn off when I hit the blinker haha. Doesn't bother me tho I have an integrated rear light and arms
sounds like you have wired em up wrong.... specifically put the diode on the blinker lead in the wrong direction. Literally connect the diode in the opposite direction and it should act as running and blinker if you followed the above diagrams.

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post #16 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 02:05 PM
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I didn't add the diodes, just hooked them up with what was there. I don't need them to blink. Just wanted to ditch the bulky stock ones.

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post #17 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 02:59 PM
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januik, you have them connected wrong. switch wires and they should blink. you have them connected as running lights as it stands now.

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post #18 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
januik, you have them connected wrong. switch wires and they should blink. you have them connected as running lights as it stands now.
ya... what pvster said... sounds like you used the running light wires instead of the actual blinker wires.

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post #19 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 09:29 PM
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I just bought some new signals from Cycle Gear...non LED. Question...can I use my new bulb signals as running lights by wiring it the same way as directed in this thread?

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SPEEDMETAL Micro Arrow Short Stalk Turn Signals - Universal Parts & Accessories - Cycle Gear

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post #20 of 39 Old 01-02-2012, 09:57 PM
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sure can, depending on the wattage of the bulb the small 1amp diodes probably wont cut it... so id run the 3amp diodes from radioshack (its what i use on my rear stock tail lights to act as blinkers / running lights)

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post #21 of 39 Old 01-03-2012, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toast View Post
I just bought some new signals from Cycle Gear...non LED. Question...can I use my new bulb signals as running lights by wiring it the same way as directed in this thread?
Caution is advised here -- the plastic of the turn signal bodies may not be able to handle the heat from the constantly on bulb and may melt. If this is the case a cure is to cut the running light wire and splice in a 3 to 5 ohm 10 watt resistor, one for each side. A three ohm resistor will cut the bulb wattage to roughly 14, a 4 ohm to 11.5, and a 5 ohm to 9.5. It will decrease the the light output as well, but if the turn signals don't melt ... let's just say it's up to you.
Here's a diagram:
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File Type: jpg turnsignal incandescent runninglights.jpg (17.7 KB, 41 views)

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post #22 of 39 Old 01-03-2012, 11:41 AM
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I would go the easier route and replace the bulbs in the turn signals with multi-SMD LED bulb replacement, which may be much brighter than the original incandescents.

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post #23 of 39 Old 01-03-2012, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
I would go the easier route and replace the bulbs in the turn signals with multi-SMD LED bulb replacement, which may be much brighter than the original incandescents.
If I replace the bulb with the LED bulb replacement, would I have to get a new flasher relay?

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post #24 of 39 Old 01-03-2012, 01:57 PM
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@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.

@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).

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post #25 of 39 Old 01-03-2012, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.

@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).
+1. I wired the resistors inline first, then got the relay later. Stupid. Should have sprung for the $20 relay and saved myself 4 hours of work.

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post #26 of 39 Old 01-04-2012, 12:21 AM
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With the uncertainty of my signals not being able to withstand the heat from the running lights, I'm thinking about just wiring a couple LEDs inside the air ducts facing outwards as running lights. That might be less of a headache as well if I just splice the power in with a fuse. Hmmmmm

Edit:Picture is with OEM signals still, haven't installed the newer ones.


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post #27 of 39 Old 01-04-2012, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.

@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).

That depends on which type you use. I have found this type of design (with SMD LED units) to be highly effective for converting incandescent reflector type signal units.



That said - yes, a decent purpose-designed LED signal will usually be better than an LED-adapted conventional unit.

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post #28 of 39 Old 01-04-2012, 10:57 AM
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i get what you're saying CB700S and you're correct in reference to the wording i chose. i forgot to mention something else which addresses your point. yes those LED units you posted works well for scattering the light output and looks good up close, but they wont be bright 50 feet away.

i've tried them and they suck. just not enough wattage to go the distance needed to be useable at night, much less during the day.

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post #29 of 39 Old 03-29-2014, 10:27 AM
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Anyone have a pic of the diode installed? This is the first time I am even going to look at a diode so just want to see how folks have done it on their 9ers so I can get ideas.

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post #30 of 39 Old 07-08-2014, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arshishb View Post
Anyone have a pic of the diode installed? This is the first time I am even going to look at a diode so just want to see how folks have done it on their 9ers so I can get ideas.
Did you ever get a pic of the diodes installed? I would like to see a pic as well. I'm unclear on where the diode goes. Does it go on the positive wire coming from the indicator, before the connector in the bucket?

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post #31 of 39 Old 07-08-2014, 05:55 AM
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Has anyone used these? I realize they are more expensive than radio shack diodes, but if I'm reading it correctly they make the LED signals compatible with even the OEM blinker relay, so I wouldn't need to purchase a new blinker relay.

Blinker Genie for Run and Turn with LED Signals on Motorcycles – Custom LED

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post #32 of 39 Old 07-08-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrow919 View Post
Did you ever get a pic of the diodes installed? I would like to see a pic as well. I'm unclear on where the diode goes. Does it go on the positive wire coming from the indicator, before the connector in the bucket?
Since I have not done this to my 919, I drew up a quick illustration pointing out how and where to install the diode and its correct orientation (the band pointing toward the turn signals). The diode must be installed at the turn signal bullet connectors! Anywhere else will cause incorrect operation. Of course, use heat shrink tubing to insulate any splices. Only the left side Orange wires are shown: substitute Light Blue for Orange for the right side.
Three wire to two wire turn signal wiring illustration.jpg

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Originally Posted by morrow919 View Post
Has anyone used these? I realize they are more expensive than radio shack diodes, but if I'm reading it correctly they make the LED signals compatible with even the OEM blinker relay, so I wouldn't need to purchase a new blinker relay.

Blinker Genie for Run and Turn with LED Signals on Motorcycles €“ Custom LED
First, the Blinker Genie does not compensate for current draw changes, and the attendant flash rate change, at all. The "Stage 1 load equalizer" is ad man speak for "Transistor". Nothing more.

Actually, that unit is a cleverly packaged P channel Field Effect Transistor and pull down resistor that takes switched power and applies it to the turn signal bulb to act as a running light, and interrupts the power whenever the turn signals are activated and the rear bulbs are flashing, meaning the front light will be on only when the rears are off. A small point, but there it is. As a matter of fact, given the maximum ratings of the circuit I could tell you with relatively high confidence which transistor they are using.

What it boils down to is either you use the Blinker Genie for $25 plus shipping or wire in a pair of $1 diodes to do essentially the same thing. The choice, obviously, is yours.

Rob

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post #33 of 39 Old 07-08-2014, 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the clarification Rob. I'll just go with the diodes, and order a LED flasher relay to replace my OEM one. Thanks again.

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post #34 of 39 Old 07-08-2014, 09:36 PM
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Just an FYI even if you use Head lights for turn signals that are bright enough to melt your gloves. They still won't see you.
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post #35 of 39 Old 07-11-2014, 12:55 PM
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I have a set of diode leads if anyone wants them. Someone on WT made them for me for free so the same applies. I was going to go aftermarket but went '09 CBR600 instead.

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post #36 of 39 Old 07-11-2014, 01:02 PM
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I'll take 'em. I've been planing on doing a blinker swap for a while. Thanks man.

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post #37 of 39 Old 07-11-2014, 01:10 PM
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I'll take 'em. I've been planing on doing a blinker swap for a while. Thanks man.
Cool man, just PM your address and I'll send them off tomorrow.

Pic:


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post #38 of 39 Old 07-11-2014, 07:20 PM
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Keep in mind that amber running lights on the rear of a vehicle will get flashing blue lights in the mirrors in many jurisdictions. Putting them on a switched circuit could save you some grief - if you get stopped switch them off and go about your business. Red is OK though.

"Keep on 9-in"

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post #39 of 39 Old 07-11-2014, 07:52 PM
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Keep in mind that amber running lights on the rear of a vehicle will get flashing blue lights in the mirrors in many jurisdictions. Putting them on a switched circuit could save you some grief - if you get stopped switch them off and go about your business. Red is OK though.
Good tip. Thanks.

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