Hi y'all. It's been awhile since I've been on here, so I hope some of the mechanics on this forum are still around. I've got a **** ton of miles on my 9'er, and would like to put plenty more on her. Just having some serious issues out in the shop with syncing the throttle bodys, and am frustrated.

Okay, here's the issue, number three starter valve won't come in to sync. I've backed off the adjuster nut to the point where it wont hold its clicks and wont stay in sync with number two. Has anyone had any issues with the plunger aduster effing up? Or am I pretty much in for a new injector or throttle body. Already cleaned all the passage-ways that might be screwing things up

Using the four restricted passageways for the sync.

Hope I'm not being to vague. Let me know, and I'll try to answer questions if you have em. I think I'm just more frustrated that I have to steal my girlfriend's SV to get to work tomorrow...damit.

Totally off topic here, but do you ever go down to Kelly's Olympian?

Hell yea! I only work a block away...I've got the 02 with the banged up tank and FFMC stickers on it.

When not using the "choke" (it's actually an air bypass) how's it running? Synchronization of the bypass plungers only affects the system when the "choke" knob is pulled out -- once it's pushed in it has no effect whatsoever on the EFI system, and there is no other synchronization possible. This is, as far as I know, the only injected bike that does not provide for some sort of adjustment, and since my '02 has well over 60,000 miles on it and still idles as smoothly as when I first got it, I can only assume synchronization isn't necessary and refuse to worry about it. The only thing that really needs doing is to make sure the bypass plungers are fully closing when the knob is pushed in. Past that, just ride it.

Here's a link to an earlier discussion on this subject, with my comments on the FI system (posts 13 and 20). It should shed some light on it.
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forum/s...ynchronization

Rob

Hey, we met there around a year ago, you told me about the drunk that tipped your bike outside the Sandy Hut, remember?

Found your other post relating to running problems, and the news is not good. Ordinarily, a stumble off idle can have a variety of causes, but since you have done a general sync and found one cylinder that is different enough from the others that the limited adjustment available is insufficient the inescapable conclusion is that cylinder is weak for some reason, and it is upon you to find that reason.

How many miles constitute a **** ton? What is it's maintenance history especially regarding valve adjustments? The main causes for a weak cylinder are external, such as a sticking injector (possible in this case), ignition coil starting to go out (less likely due to the effect it would have on cyl #2 as well), or a vacuum leak from a cracked intake boot or vacuum hose, and internal, in the form of a valve tightening up to the point of leaking compression pressure or worn rings / scored cylinder liner allowing blowby, which is usually accompanied by oil consumption.

Diagnosing the external is comparatively simple: visual inspection of all rubber parts of the intake system past the throttle plates for cracks or splits, a sticking injector can be found by idling the engine and listening to the click noise made when the injector operates with a stethoscope or a long screwdriver with one end held firmly against the injector body and the other pressed to your ear -- the click should be quite sharp. Sticking mutes the click some, though the difference can be difficult to discern to an untrained ear. Comparing it to adjacent injectors is a good way to tell if there is a difference. If it is an ignition coil swapping the coils is comparatively easy: if the problem moves you have found the cause. If not it's probably internal.

The only valid diagnosis for an internal problem is to do a leakdown test on the suspect cylinder, and one other for a baseline. If the leakage is much more than 15% that is probably where the problem lies.

Of course there is the possibility that the throttle position sensor or the MAP sensor is marginal but still within tolerance enough to not light the PGM-FI warning or set a failure code, but while not unheard of it less likely unless there is damage to the sensors.

Anyway, you have a starting point. Post as much information as you can and let's see if we can narrow it down some.

Rob