I've had hundreds of people recommend the bounce method for fork alignment... although never with the center nut.. hmm
actually maybe that's the difference. I think where i've had it recommended is just with getting the axle and fork lowers all lined up. Not the triple clamps... seems to line up the triple clamps you should unweight the front. and putt he forks in and tighten clamps to spec. I'm sure there's a procedure in the manual with more steps, but something like that.
I wouldn't try to line up the clamps that way either.
Mounting Front Forks by McTavish McRomo in 2011
Here are a few links if you want to get a little more info on the technical side of your forks.
How about Nodoo, as in not doing everything that needs to be done.
Keep in mind how critical it is to properly align the forks and front axle, noting I'm not aware of a factory manual that tells you how to properly align the forks on the front axle. Proper mounting of forks is as crucial as any work inside them or setup adjustments made.
Do a trial fit with both forks in place, bare axle fitted and lightly clamped on the side with the bearing preload end bolt, and very carefully nip up the lower clamps with upper sitting in place.
Then nip up the upper triple.
Then torque the lower triple.
Then torque the upper triple.
Then remove the axle.
Then release the triples on no bearing preload end bolt side, just enough so it can be be slid in the clamps with a hand tug, let it slide down, then back up to see if it nicely indexes in the upper hole.
Usually it does and that is what you are looking for. (If it doesn't, you have a misalignment problem.)
Then put the axle in, and move the released fork up and down to a position where the axle easily indexes into and smoothly slides through the other side.
With good forks, you should end with both sides fairly even in terms of projection distance about the top triple.
The carefully go about buttoning up the lower and upper clamps.
When it's all back together, loosen the axle clamp on the side without the bearing preload end bolt, and with the bike on the wheels and front brake on, Jounce as much as you can, thus letting the free fork leg find where it wants to be on the front axle, then torque it up the axle clamping bolts.
(the axle needs light oil on it for this to work properly - there is too much friction with a dry install for this to work).
Your forks are square and equalized to each other.
The axle will be easier to install with the weight of the wheel on it.
The axle bores won't get scored over time from repeated R & Rs.
Your fork legs should be reasonably centred on the fork tubes - noting how much slop they have in them.
Your fork bushings should be more evenly loaded with greater bushing area actually being utilized.
Your forks should end with less Stiction and less Friction.
Others may have a different approach for the initial squaring of the legs in the tubes.
Ideally, and hoping you won't be removing forks very often, the best way is to remove the springs, and do all the initial set up work with the forks fully compressed. (Particularly so for old skinny tubed conventionals, e.g. 36 mm.)
Some might suggest doing the fitting work mid stroke. Doing the work with the forks fully extended is not the best, but it's much better than just slapping it together.
Of course, all of this is wasted unless the steering head bearings are in excellent condition and have been properly setup, the triples are true, the forks are true, and the axle is true.
One last thing.
The bearing preload end bolt (that threads into the end of the axle) should not be torqued with that side's fork axle clamp pinch bolts also torqued. Loose or barely loaded pinch bolts is all you want. Use the axle clamp pinch bolts on the other fork leg to hold the axle whole you torque the nut. Otherwise, the axle is not free to load up on it's shoulder, and your bolt torquing will not be the indication of bearing load that it is intended to be.