Splicing into headlight relay - how tos? advice? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Splicing into headlight relay - how tos? advice?

Hey Guys,

i NEED To splice my heated grips into my headlight relay. i told myself i didnt need to when installing the grips but i've left them on 3 times already and killed my battery once.

Am i lucky enough that someone has done this and can offer some advice? I dont even know where the damn relay is.

Thanks

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 02:58 PM
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Better idea: get a fuzeblock and wire it up to switched.

Running through the headlight wiring is a bad idea.

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 04:11 PM
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There is a red wire with a black stripe (R/Bl) that feeds switched power to the fuse panel. The fuse panel is under the seat on the right side. I soldered a splice into the (R/Bl) wire and utilized an inline fuse to power my heated grips.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Better idea: get a fuzeblock and wire it up to switched.

Running through the headlight wiring is a bad idea.
Fuseblock and independent relay, IMHO.

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post #5 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post

Fuseblock and independent relay, IMHO.
Sorry, I wasn't clear. You can set the fuzeblock to run on switched power. Or specific accessories on switched and other accessories on continuous power.

The other suggestion also works. Going through the headlight wiring is ill advised. Whatever you do, be sure to wire in a separate relay to protect your wiring system.

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-02-2015, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB700S View Post
Fuseblock and independent relay, IMHO.
My Honda OEM grips draw less than 3 amps. If you have some power hungry heated grips, a relay could be used to take the load off the switched power wire.

1972 Honda CL350 "sold"
1981 Honda CB750 Custom "sold"
1983 Honda V45 "sold"
1975 Honda 400F "sold"
1978 Honda 750K "sold"
1969 CT70K0
1980 CBX "sold"
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-03-2015, 12:52 PM
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It is not necessary to route wires from under the seat -- all connections can be made inside the headlight shell. After all, there is already a constant hot high current wire and a switched wire at the ignition switch, so why not use them? A generalized wiring diagram for switching:
Heater wiring.jpg
Note the constant power wire is connected to the normally open terminal, not the common: this prevents the normally closed terminal from being powered up when the relay is off.

And a method for connecting to the wires without having to cut and splice, outlined in the 599 headlight thread post 86: https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ht-8592-3.html

I recommend a sealed fuse holder, miniature toggle switch, and switch boot for protection from rain or washing. From McMaster Carr:
-- SPDT miniature toggle switch P/N: 7347K75 $7.02
-- Toggle switch boot: Specify black, gray, red, or white. P/N: 70205K3 $5.68
-- Fuse holder: Sealed Mini fuse holder, P/N: 8110K1 $3.16
Mount it where you can get at it without having to open the headlight shell.
-- Relay: 12V DC coil, 40 Amp contacts. Dimensions: 1" 1" 0.9" P/N: 9672K29 $7.89.
This is a standard Bosch type relay available from any auto parts store. When mounting be sure the terminals are pointing downward to prevent water from pooling around the terminals and / or entering the case.

Have fun!

Rob

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
------- Rob --------
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-03-2015, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!

Rob, i dont know you too well but i've read your extremely informative/intelligent posts before, most of them go WAY over my head. i was posting on here recently regarding some exhaust flow question i had and i was thinking "i havnt seen any posts from Rob lately, i hope that guy is still on this forum"

anyways thanks everyone. im going to be tackling this soon and i'll post how i did it.

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