Speedometer quits, then FI light an hour later. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Speedometer quits, then FI light an hour later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_SJ0...e_gdata_player
One long flash, then one short flash, then repeat.

One flash has to do with MLP, according to the manual. This happened to and from work, the speedo quit, then the FI light comes on an hour later, but it runs fine.

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post #2 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 01:50 PM
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Check the harness/connector for the speed sensor. Don't have my manual in front of me what's and drawing a Blank what's MLP stand for?

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post #3 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 03:27 PM
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MLP...

Major League Player?

Motorcycle License Plate?

My Little Pony?

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post #4 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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I have to look in my manual when I get home too.
MLP sensor on a car is a manual lever position sensor. It might be the sensor that tells the bike what gear its in. I know it can tell whether or not it's in neutral, because that light works.

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post #5 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MF1VE
My Little Pony?
This is exactly what Google search gave me......lol.

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post #6 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 04:10 PM
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post #7 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 04:12 PM
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Two blinks: loose or poor connection of the MAP sensor vacuum tube or faulty MAP sensor.

MAP Sensor: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor



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post #8 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
Two blinks: loose or poor connection of the MAP sensor vacuum tube or faulty MAP sensor.

MAP Sensor: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
ya.... its obviously something to do with the MAP sensor.

Check the vacuum tube and the wires going to the sensor.

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post #9 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MF1VE View Post
MLP...

Major League Player?

Motorcycle License Plate?

My Little Pony?

“You may have thought you heard me say I wanted a lot of bacon and eggs, but what I said was: Give me all the bacon and eggs you have.”-Ron Swanson
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post #10 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 05:37 PM
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hahahaha

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post #11 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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My mistake, MAP, not MLP.
So one long blink, then a short blink is two blinks, not two separate single blinks?

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post #12 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EatDirtFartDust View Post
My mistake, MAP, not MLP.
So one long blink, then a short blink is two blinks, not two separate single blinks?
Your bike just thinks your cute... All those winks.

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post #13 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 06:42 PM
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As per the chart in the link above I think you have one blink, FI light lit and one short blink.

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post #14 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EatDirtFartDust View Post
My mistake, MAP, not MLP.
So one long blink, then a short blink is two blinks, not two separate single blinks?
The PGM-FI MIL denotes the failure codes(the # of blinks from 1-33. When the indicator lights for 1.3 seconds, it is the equivalent of 10 blinks. A 0.5 second blink rates as 1 blink. I took it to mean two blinks from your original post.

One long and one short would be the equivalent of 11 blinks which indicates a loose or poor contact on the vehicle speed sensor, an open/short circuit on the same sensor, or a faulty sensor by itself. In any case, the engine operates normally. I hope this clears it up.


Doc



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post #15 of 100 Old 06-03-2012, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
The PGM-FI MIL denotes the failure codes(the # of blinks from 1-33. When the indicator lights for 1.3 seconds, it is the equivalent of 10 blinks. A 0.5 second blink rates as 1 blink. I took it to mean two blinks from your original post.

One long and one short would be the equivalent of 11 blinks which indicates a loose or poor contact on the vehicle speed sensor, an open/short circuit on the same sensor, or a faulty sensor by itself. In any case, the engine operates normally. I hope this clears it up.


Doc
Yep, I didn't read the fine print (again...) Disregard my previous post...

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post #16 of 100 Old 06-04-2012, 09:51 AM
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you can always use a jumper wire into the diagnostic connector under the seat, switch ignition switch to RUN and it should blink again revealing the history....

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post #17 of 100 Old 06-04-2012, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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That makes so much more sense.
My speedometer quit reading, then some time later, the computer notices a problem and flashes a code 11 for speed sensor.

I'm jus glad I have one problem, instead of two separate problems.
Since I bought the bike, it would intermittently lose speedometer, but would only last for a few minutes then jump back.
Now it's been nonfunctional for 3 days straight.

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post #18 of 100 Old 06-04-2012, 12:06 PM
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If the speed sensor goes out (mine did), then the speedometer will read ZERO. Tach operation is not affected, and both gauges will initialize (full needle sweep and back) upon turning the key to "ON".

If the bike is ridden in this condition and the RPMs go above 5,000 for any length of time, then the amber FI malfunction light will come on.

Replacing the speed sensor takes about two minutes.
Getting to the speed sensor so you can change it is a whole fookin' afternoon, though


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post #19 of 100 Old 06-04-2012, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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I'll just keep using this for a while:


image-3309483286.jpg

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post #20 of 100 Old 06-04-2012, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
The PGM-FI MIL denotes the failure codes(the # of blinks from 1-33. When the indicator lights for 1.3 seconds, it is the equivalent of 10 blinks. A 0.5 second blink rates as 1 blink. I took it to mean two blinks from your original post.

One long and one short would be the equivalent of 11 blinks which indicates a loose or poor contact on the vehicle speed sensor, an open/short circuit on the same sensor, or a faulty sensor by itself. In any case, the engine operates normally. I hope this clears it up.


Doc
This confused the hell out of me at first. Took about ten readings before I understood it. Now I do. I feel much smarter now.

Thanks.

Ralph

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post #21 of 100 Old 06-05-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EatDirtFartDust View Post
I'll just keep using this for a while:


Attachment 20742
What is that? GPS speedo?

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post #22 of 100 Old 06-05-2012, 12:18 PM
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nm. Found it.

Awesome HUD for iPhone 3G, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 4, and iPhone 4S on the iTunes App Store

Slick. Now I need a handlebar mount for an iPhone 4S.... Off to Amazon.

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post #23 of 100 Old 06-05-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, that's it.
You can lay it on the dash of your car and have the screen flip. Then it works like a HUD reflecting off your car windshield.

That's why I originally bought it.

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post #24 of 100 Old 07-13-2013, 12:31 PM
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To Texas Traffic, Thanks so much for sending in your reply. Every thing you said is exactly what mine did. I'll check the sensor for moisture, corrosion, or being loose. If that doesn't work, I'll order the sensor, which I know will not be in stock!

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post #25 of 100 Old 07-19-2013, 02:07 PM
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The correct part # for the sensor is # 37700-MCZ-000. Cost was $109. I hope this helps someone. Dickey
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post #26 of 100 Old 07-19-2013, 05:02 PM
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post #27 of 100 Old 07-21-2013, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTraffic View Post

Replacing the speed sensor takes about two minutes.
Getting to the speed sensor so you can change it is a whole fookin' afternoon, though


Oh shit I had a good laugh!!!!!!!


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post #28 of 100 Old 07-25-2013, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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So here's my lazy idea:

What about removing the starter, then I think I'll have enough room to fit my lady-like hand and a wrench with a pivot year into there to remove the two bolts for the speed sensor.

Then I wouldn't have I remove the airbox, which looks like a nightmare.
This, of course, is assuming the sensor isn't deeper than the airbox and I can get I out and in with enough clearance.



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post #29 of 100 Old 07-25-2013, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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My other notions was to make a hole in the bottom of the airbox that I could get a socket and extender through, then epoxy the hole shut.
Bu I'd have the same issue with clearance (unless I made a really big hole) so starter removal seems more reasonable, and less risky.

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post #30 of 100 Old 07-25-2013, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EatDirtFartDust View Post
I'll just keep using this for a while:


Attachment 20742
There are tons of speedometer apps out there for android. Anyone have any opinions on which is best? Unfortunalty I don't think I can get the HUD Awesome app on my samsung.

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post #31 of 100 Old 07-25-2013, 10:35 AM
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Eat Dirt, good idea, but, no cigar! The sender is 2" tall, and 1 1/4" deep in the case, so the air box is still in the way. My Idea is the same as your 2nd notion, cut a hole. I've measured mine ( but) haven't cut yet. It needs to be directly on top of the sender and rectangular shaped just like the shoulders of the sender. Cut a 1"x2" hole and then find suitable material to use as a patch. Who cares what it looks like, as when I stop using my Hornet it will only be good for a few spare parts. I plan to keep as my life time bike.

Make sure you plug rags in the injector air intake holes before using the Dremal and use your shop vac to get all debries out of the air box and wait for the epoxy to harden good.

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post #32 of 100 Old 07-25-2013, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, you saved me time in removing the starter needlessly. I'll stick the shop vac nozzle in there while I dremel, along with rags to block the intake. We have some real nice epoxy here, so I'll make up a metal plate and epoxy it over the hole.

I'll take pics as I go. I just don't want to take that air box and/or throttle body out.

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post #33 of 100 Old 07-26-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Removing the speed sensor on a Honda 919 Hornet, the easy w - YouTube

BOOM!
There you have it. Less than a half hour to get the sensor out. (not including setup)

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post #34 of 100 Old 07-26-2013, 07:13 PM
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post #35 of 100 Old 07-26-2013, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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"..it's a little bigger than my middle finger, about thumb size, that's all you need."

You rascal!

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post #36 of 100 Old 06-25-2015, 08:04 PM
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Old thread, but great info. I had thought that it was just a loose wire, but with all the posts I've seen it looks like I'm going to have to swap the sensor. I will definitely be giving this technique a shot.
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post #37 of 100 Old 06-26-2015, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
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Old thread, but great info. I had thought that it was just a loose wire, but with all the posts I've seen it looks like I'm going to have to swap the sensor. I will definitely be giving this technique a shot.

This recently happened to my niner. I have the new sensor and will be cutting an access hole rather than removing the air box.

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post #38 of 100 Old 09-24-2015, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
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This recently happened to my niner. I have the new sensor and will be cutting an access hole rather than removing the air box.
...or not.
Funny thing about plans... they tend to change.

Long story short I didn't cut an access hole in the air box, and I did not remove the air box either. An abundance of time to think about the situation had left me determined to replace the speed sensor without resorting to drastic measures.

This last Saturday (9/19... go figure) I replaced the clutch cable on the Niner, and once that task was complete I decided I would sit down and get serious about figuring out how I was going to get the speed sensor replaced without pulling or modifying the air box. After a little poking and prodding of the cables and hoses around the sensor I realized it was very likely that if I could get the bolts out, then there would be JUST enough room to lift out the sensor by tilting it to the left as I was lifting it up and out of it's seat. All that needed to happen was to move a few cables out of the way and hold down the hose on the left to make room as I pull out the sensor.

Getting the front bolt out would be easy enough, but reaching that one in the back? Yeah. That was going to be interesting. I pondered many different options concerning how to reach it AND get it broken loose. All manner of crazy gadgets and contraptions were considered but finally I settled on an unlikely tool that happened to be perfect for the job.

So what was this mystery tool? What makes it so great? That, my friends, I shall leave till the end of this write-up. Partly because I think a little suspense makes for a good entertaining story, and yes partly because sometimes I'm just an onery ass. Yes, yes... I am well aware that one could just skip to the end, but where's the fun in that? Being riders, I'm sure we can all appreciate that it's more about the journey than the destination!

Okay enough of my rambling. I'll get to it.

As it turned out, my initial hypothesis was correct. I was able to get the cables moved out of the way and the first bolt came out without any issues whatsoever. I then used my mystery tool to access the second bolt in the back by reaching in behind and over the swingarm pivot area. With a little elbow grease, the rear bolt broke loose as well and I was able to get it loosened with my fingers, and hauled out with a pair of long needle nose pliers. After that it was just a matter of disconnecting it's wire from the harness and using a flat head screwdriver to pop it up out of the hole. As stated in my educated guess earlier, all I had to do was hold down the hose on the left as I lifted out the sensor, tilting it to the left so it could go into the space left by the absence of cables and the hose. After that was done, all I had to do was pull it out and I was left with this:



Sensor popped right out.



Now all I have to do is dump the old sensor and install the new one.





All I had to do was reverse the procedure at this point. Tilt the bottom end of the sensor toward the hole, press down the hose again, tilt the upper body of the sensor left and fit it into the space left by the absence of the hose and cables, and guide the new sensor down into its seat.



I then used the needle nose pliers again just to make it easy to set the front bolt back in place, and then tightened it with my fingers just enough to hold the sensor in place.





Now it was time to do the same for the rear bolt. Again I used the needle nose pliers to set the bolt in position, and then I used a long slim flat head screwdriver inserted from the right to slowly spin the bolt down by pressing alongside the bolt head to cause it to thread in.









Now that both bolts were snugged into position, it was time to actually tighten them down. The front bolt was easy enough, of course... but what about the rear? Enter the mystery tool!



The tool is an open end / box end wrench. Not very glamorous, but this one is just different enough to matter for this task. It has the correct length and angle to reach the rear bolt from the rear of the bike. All I have to do is use it to reach in and get hold of the bolt, and a series of short turns gets the job done.





All tightened up! At this point, all that was left was to connect the new sensor cable back into the appropriate location on the wiring harness. Replacement complete! I then put all the cables and such back in their original locations.



All done! Just like new... kinda.



So what was so special about the wrench? Just the right design and dimensions was all, but no regular wrench would do the trick. This 10mm MAC wrench seemed as though it was made just for this job. The photos below will make it pretty clear why it worked so well, and should aid anyone who may be looking for one, to get the right one. The "deep" and angled box end makes it work for this application.







That about covers it. I guess this concludes the story of how I managed to replace my speed sensor without drastic measures. I would say the whole process could be done in about 30 minutes.

Cheers!
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post #39 of 100 Old 09-29-2015, 03:44 PM
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I did some digging. That combination wrench is about the only size that you can get back in there and clear anything, everything else seems to have a larger 'head'. It's a MAC Tools M10CL440 and can be purchased online here:

Products

Finding a MAC Tools truck can be a problem - the online method is probably your best bet to find one. I ordered mine today.
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post #40 of 100 Old 09-29-2015, 07:43 PM
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Also, FYI, those wrenches are just $12 plus tax and ship free. Better than an hour or two at the shop.
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