Some quick battery questions - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Some quick battery questions

Hey all, I've got a 2002 919, 35k miles, that had a pretty hard life before she got to me. I'm repairing her, and had a question about the battery. The battery on mine starts the bike fine, but the headlights dim when the clutch is in. Further, getting the battery out was easy, but getting it back in is proving impossible. Is there a trick to it, or a possibility the battery is the wrong size? It looks like the cover over the positive terminal gets squished pretty badly going in, but I haven't worked on one of these before. Next step is to charge the battery and see if it can keep a decent charge, but if it's the wrong size, I'll just replace it. Thanks for any advice.

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post #2 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 01:54 PM
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Don't have my 9'er anymore, but from what I remember the batter box is built to accept the posts on only one side. Don't remember if it's toward or away from the bike, but if you try the wrong way it's pretty difficult.

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 02:49 PM
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The headlight dim shouldn't be the battery once the bike is running. You say "in" meaning that you've pulled the clutch lever and the bike is running at idle? If so, that could be normal, but I'd look at the connections. I'm not sure if at idle causes the light to dim or not.

The batter is a bi*ch to get in and out. It's a tight fit and I was thinking of making a remote access in case I need a jump.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 03:38 PM
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Yes it's a tight fit and if you add an extra terminal for accessories, it gets even more difficult to install with the hood over the positive terminal that goes in first. Once that hood is deformed, it will drive you nuts getting it back in the battery enclosure.

As for the headlamp dimming(I assume at idle), take the battery to an auto shop and have it load tested if you are not sure of its health. I have had batteries start the bike fine one day and are dead the next day despite the fact that they are tendered all the time when in the garage or on tour.

Two simple things will leave you stranded: an old battery and worn tires. I don't leave either to chance.

Good luck and congratulations on the acquisition of your '02.
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks all.

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post #6 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post

Two simple things will leave you stranded: an old battery and worn tires. I don't leave either to chance.
Sage advice, aye!

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-30-2018, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
The headlight dim shouldn't be the battery once the bike is running. You say "in" meaning that you've pulled the clutch lever and the bike is running at idle? If so, that could be normal, but I'd look at the connections. I'm not sure if at idle causes the light to dim or not.

The batter is a bi*ch to get in and out. It's a tight fit and I was thinking of making a remote access in case I need a jump.
And cold weather makes the stock sized battery fitment and extraction even more challenging, more so the fitment.

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-31-2018, 01:40 PM
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If the battery spins the motor vigorously it is probably in decent shape, though a load test will tell you more.

As to the headlight dimming when idling ... perfectly normal to an extent. This is an artifact of the nature of the generator: much below 2,200 RPM it is not producing enough current to charge the battery and keep all the other electrical loads happy, dropping the voltage from the operational voltage of ~14 volts to the normal battery voltage of ~12.6 - 12.8 volts or less, noticeably dimming the headlight. Just the nature of the beast.

Battery installation is not much fun, but with the positive cable only attached it slips in relatively easily and once in place the negative cable is easy to attach. I recommend wedging a short piece of soda straw under the terminal nut to not only keep it in place while inserting the battery, but also making it possible to start the bolt. Without the straw the nut will drop to the bottom of the terminal, making starting the threads nearly impossible.

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post #9 of 9 Old 08-01-2018, 04:21 AM
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Agree the battering in the 919 is .... well, difficult to deal with. Make sure that you do not connect the negative terminal before you try to "slip" the battery in place because it would be unfortunately easy to short the + terminal against metal parts as the battery goes in. And as mentioned, it goes into place more easily if the negative terminal is connected last.


Interesting comment about the caged nut falling to the bottom of the cage and not being engaged by the terminal bolt if you have another connector eye to be installed. I ran into that when I changed the battery in the 919 2 years ago. But this season, I've installed new YUASA batteries in a couple of other bikes and for some reason, the terminal bolts supplied are now long enough to engaged the caged nut even with added connector eyes without resorting to a little filler piece to raise the nut in the cage. Perhaps somebody YUASA noticed??

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