so i have a problem with the left brake - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-11-2012, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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so i have a problem with the left brake

I stripped the hex pin and seemed to not be able to change my brake pads.

im wondering is there any other way to say, open the brake and bypass unscrewing the pin entirely?

that way when the front cover comes off it takes the pin with it releasing it.

or if not, what should i use to get the bolt out? i dont have a drill powerful enough to drill into the pin itself, and i tried hammering a hammer into the thing to try and do it that way, but it just stripped and make the hole even bigger, i then just tried a larger Allen wrench and hammered it in some and it was in there tight and it stripped as well.

i'm concerned ill have to get a shop to do it. i have both brakes otherwise brand new (front right/back)

its to dark outside now to post a photo so i would have to tomorrow

im trying to fill it with some plumming puddy that turns rock hard and maybe it will get grip due to the jagged pit.
and then try getting a hammer in before it dries and then unscrew it?

i also lubbed up the spot prior to doing it to get it into the thread

any help would be great.

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post #2 of 13 Old 07-11-2012, 07:03 PM
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yeah you gotta watch for those pins.... maybe try grabbing on the center of the pin between the pads with some vise grips / channel locks?

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post #3 of 13 Old 07-11-2012, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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i was thinking of doing that.

im having a buddy come over tomorrow with some tools he thinks may work

i'll ask if he has vice grips.

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post #4 of 13 Old 07-11-2012, 07:48 PM
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sounds like you need a need a new pin any way... if worse comes to worse jb weld a cheap allen wrench in it

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post #5 of 13 Old 07-11-2012, 09:59 PM
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Didn't someone have a recent but exact same problem??? Was it Helimech?

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post #6 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Pvster
Didn't someone have a recent but exact same problem??? Was it Helimech?
Wasn't me but i know a similar thred was posted a few weeks back.

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post #7 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 04:31 AM
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I don't have a solution for you but if you don't mind me asking, did you try to loosen the hex pin with the calipers on or off?

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post #8 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 08:07 AM
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How badly did you strip it? Grab an SAE wrench that won't fit and slowly on a belt sander or sandpaper and a stick ( oil stones also work )work it down till you can tap it in there. While your sanding and stoning away soak the offending member in a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF a number of times.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

ATF/acetone vs. PB Blaster or others -


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post #9 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 08:33 AM
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I'm in the same boat as you ... and I suspect that the prior owner of my bike encountered the same problem. I noticed the worn pads on the left about a month ago. Got some new pads and replaced the ones on the right with no problem (they had plenty of life on them). And then found the problem with the left hanger pin.

I hit it with pb blaster, stripped my allen wrench. Then accepting that I would have to get a new pin (got it yesterday), tried a bolt extractor. I had one which fit nicely in the stripped 4mm head. That might have worked, but I ended up breaking the tip off. Now I'm shooping for new calipers for my 2005 919.

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post #10 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 08:41 AM
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I'm really not trying to be a troll here, but if you're thinking of swapping out your calipers, why not do an upgrade?

I have a setup for sale right now that I LOVED on my 919... more stopping power and excellent feel in the lever (levers included).

I also have just a set of RC51 calipers, but they need a few parts, like pads and pins in order to work.

The RC51 calipers are direct bolt on, but work best with an upgraded master cylinder (such as the GSXR I have in the first listing).

Other options include 954 calipers, although I'm not sure what those entail in getting set up.

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post #11 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 09:43 AM
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Thanks for the offer. I've got to see if bazzy ends up parting out his I'll also ought to try a little bit harder to extract my bolt extractor over the weekend.

I'd like to take care of this soon, so I'll keep your parts on my short list of options.

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post #12 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 10:06 AM
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It seems a bit silly to replace a caliper for an $8 pin. There are other ways to get that pin out.

1 -- Heat the caliper body with a heat gun, grab the pin between the worn pad and the outer caliper half with a needle nose vice grip and see if it will turn. Cost $10 for the pliers.

2 -- Remove the caliper, place the tapped hole for the pin on a block of wood and tap the exposed end of the pin with a hammer while an assistant applies a fotating force to the pin with those same vice grips. It usually works. Cost $10 for the pliers.

3 -- Get serious. Since you have already removed the caliper, bolt it back onto the fork leg and loosen the bolts holding the caliper halves together. Once loose put it on the bench and separate the halves. You now can remove the pads and spring and have plenty of room to grap the pin for another try. If this works reassemble the caliper with a new fluid crossfeed passage o-ring, reinstall it and connect the brake line and bleed out the air. If it still won't come out you can still replace the pads and bolt the whole assembly together. Naturally the next pad change will be the same hassle you are facing now. Cost $30 for the caliper rebuild kit to get the o-ring.

4 -- Wire EDM. Again, the caliper will have to be removed and the fluid inlet plugged. Cost variable depending on the machine shop.

5 -- Buy two Brembo monobloc calipers and suitably proportioned master cylinder and find a way to bolt them on to the original forks ... or preferably a pair of Ohlins USD forks. As long as you are doing that you might as well get a 17 x 3.5 Marvic Piuma magnesium front wheel with 330mm GSXR rotors to finish off the project. Cost $12000+ for all this.

There you have it. If you want option #5 call LDH and he would be happy to give you a hand.


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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #13 of 13 Old 07-12-2012, 10:24 AM
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You're an inspiration ... thanks for the detailed solutions. Hopefully this will also help the original poster. I've already got the pliers, so If I have to go to option two, it may only cost me a 6-pack to compensate my assistant.

Hopefully I'll have some good news to report on Monday. We've got a couple days of drought-busting weather coming up, so I won't be missing much road time.

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