I put a new chain and sprokets on my 9er WEEKS AGO, and have been waiting for my rivet tool to come in, but its on back order and summer is almost over, got to get out riding. I did it with a c clamp and tip from a flare tool. But i have never used a rivet chain link so I am wondering if you guys think this looks ok.

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The rivets look flush with the holes, which makes me think it won't hold under power. The rivet tool will crush the ends to kind of flare them - to keep them from backing out. Why not run up to a shop or find someone local that'll let you borrow their tool?

I have been trying, 3 shops in town are a joke, 2 didnt know what i was talking about and the other didnt have one. They are more focused on boats. Have no one to borrow one from but will have to wait if i can not get it with what i have.

How does a bike shop not have one? Also, where you did you order your tool? Wondering why it's taking weeks to get there...

put a little more elbow grease into. but slipped on me on the bottom one and thined out an egde. Is it time to get the welder out haha?

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^ ouch! No, that is NOT ok...


Yeah...that masterlink should get replaced, now. Once a rivet gets cracked or peened badly like that, it will tend to bind up improperly and could break unexpectedly.

once you have a proper chain tool it will be easier to set the rivets properly. The "pro" way of finding out when enough is enough is to use a dial caliper to measure the mushroomed out head of the rivet. IIRC, .030 is the measurement to squish it to.

ok for light riding or wait until it is replaced?

You are looking for a yes answer. I couldn't give it.


Shadow's got the 411 down.


It's not unheard of fucking up a link. In my estimation, you made a pretty good stab at it for not having the proper tool.

The cracked one is no good. The left one looks 'ok', but either way, you'd need to play with the chain to make sure it doesn't kink.

My buddy told me to always pick up at least two master links, lol.

Yes, I'd replace it before riding.

odered the tool from a shop in winnipeg and it went on back order, and they never told me until i called today. The "bike" shops here no nothing about bikes, or customer service.

I think it would be ok to ride gingerly with that, but only until the replacement arrives...I'm not endorsing it, just giving an assessment. If you choose to ride it like that, it's on your head.

Honestly, it's hard to tell what it would do which is the problem. It could be fine for a long time, or it could fail after 5 miles. That's the reason for the strict manufacturer's spec on it...

Be careful out there!





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if you are that hard up for a ride, I know some people think its Taboo, but geta freaking clip link and call it a day... Some people will freak out you cant do that it will fail yada yada... I know I rode about 30k miles on one no issues on my 919 in every condition imaginable...

i was planning on doing that for the time being but cant seem to find one for this chain. RK 520 GXW. I dont know if just any clip link would work

Ordered a new link and tool from a shop in wpg that says that they can get it over night.... says that they can

get a new master link, take the rear tire off (or at least pull the chain off the rear sprocket) so the chain can lay on the ground, place a BIG sledge hammer behind the master, then take a small ball peen hammer and tap on the rivets to mushroom em out... not the proper way but will get the job done just as good (just make sure to not clamp the plate too tight to begin with)

That's a joke, right nd?

honestly no, its how i have always done my dirbike chains. i do have the tool to press on the side plate properly, then very carefully mushroom out the tips of the rivets.

I've actually done it this way many many times. You just have to keep swiveling the chain on it's to make sure you don't get it crimped too tight. The way I did all my dirtbikes including a XR680R that crossed the desert an mountains many time at up to 90mph.

It's not a joke, it would work. it's easier to split the rivet heads doing it this way, rather than using a chain tool... but it's one technique

Fascinating, guys!!!!


In order to loosen up a stuck link that is too tightly crimped, bend the chain laterally with the master link in the center of the bend.

I havent done it myself, but I have heard that a BB and a C-Clamp will work (after the side plate is in proper position).

groys and birls, I'll stick with the tool.

I think you meant:

groys and birls, I'll ttick with the stool...

lol u guys are great.

i like the clamp with a nice round small ball bearing / BB idea... might try that next time.

I went out and bought the RK Chain break / riveting tool with 2 friends. Best chain tool I have ever used and when split 3 ways it was $30.

I paid the extra $10 for shipping so it lives at my house.

I have done it the shade tree way with c-clamps and the like, but there is no replacement for a well made tool designed to the job.

I tried all the above methods with my master and just ended up making it worse. I finally bought the chain tool and am glad I did. I am sure some of the other methods work but I was uneasy with how it looked. Here's how mine turned out with the motion pro tool.

919 (29).jpg 919 (28).jpg

motion pro tool on its way to me hopfully tomorow and a new link.

Here is where i got the idea:
Diy Chain Rivet Tool : KawiForums.com Kawasaki Forums: Kawasaki motorcycle forums

Thats the exact forum where I got the Idea too.

This may be a little late, but in the meantime put a clip link on it and silicone it in place. It will be better than what you have. For additional peace of mind, wrap the clip link and the plate it's with, with many turns of fishing line before siliconing it. This will ensure that the clip will stay on. Also, one edge of the clip is sharper than the other. Install the sharp edge facing out.

In close to forty years of using clips on my motorcycles, I've yet to have a single one come off, despite horror stories to the contrary of how dangerous they are. Clips only come off if the installer puts them on incorrectly, and there are many ways of doing just that.

How about an 8mm wrench as a chain tool? EK Motorcycle & ATV Chain
$10-$15 for a EK screw-type master link

That looks pretty good, I wonder how reliable it is.

Not a whole lot publicity for EK screw types, but it works just like a rivet link. The screw portion is just for installation and doesn't actually hold the link in place.

I've never used it but it seems the VFR guys are getting good reviews from it. Chain Master Links - VFR Discussion
There's a guy on that thread that said he was able to use it with a DID chain as well.


Here's a step by step on someone installing the screw-type:
Screw-type Master Link Install and Test - VFR Discussion