repacking satos: help please - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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repacking satos: help please

hello everyone. received my repack material from sato racing for my sato exhuast today decided to go ahead and tear into them and get them cans prepped/installed since i have a re-tune being done on saturday at noon and want to get these puppies installed.

i've already tore into one of them and the core is toast for sure. the problem i'm having is that i cannot get the packing material/core out. wtf?! it literally is in there solid and all i was able to do was tear out the first inch or so in bits and pieces. i'm not going to be able to do that all the way through the can. does anyone have any experience or suggestions on how to get the guts out of these things?

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post #2 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 08:09 PM
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Can you drill out the rivets and take the other end off too? Then maybe you can push it through.

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post #3 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Can you drill out the rivets and take the other end off too? Then maybe you can push it through.
yeah i tried that, cant even get the end cap to budge on that end! not even joking

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post #4 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 08:18 PM
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Check out this post....similar problem

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...tml#post384778

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post #5 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Check out this post....similar problem

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...tml#post384778
many thanks! i saw that post before but didnt read closely for post #2, somehow i overlooked that. while reading it i was disheardened that i didnt have any pb blaster or the like. went into the garage and got to thinking: metal expands if hot, if i can make it expand it'll start to break the bond and then i can aid it by tapping it with a rubber mallet.

so i did just that. applied a heat gun to the area where the band wrapped around the can on high for about 3 minutes, then tapped the end cap with a mallet and the glue broke loose. was able to take the end cap off and push the material out that way

but OMG... what a mess there was so much carbon buildup and packing material breakdown that it just came apart into fine black dust EVERYWHERE. i was not expecting that and as such i wasn't dressed appropriately. did both cans then set em aside and hopped into the shower. ended up having to clean the shower afterwards as well. the core itself looked intact as did the outlet end of the cone but the inlet end of the cone was completely gone. i mean GONE. no trace of it left for either can.

now i gotta figure out how to pop a couple of dings out while i have access to the inside and see about buffing out some scratches. any suggestions? what grit sandpaper should i take to the outside to buff out the scratches? i dont want to make this a long drawn out process, just make them presentable. i will start work on them again tomorrow afternoon when i get the rest of what i need such as a rivet gun, more rivets (is there a special type of rivet needed?), and rtv for the outlet caps.

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post #6 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 10:15 PM
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yours is the brushed stainless, right? not the polished?

I'm not sure what you could use, I know a fine steel wool works great for polished SS, but the matte finish you have I'm not sure about.

Unless you want to convert them entirely to polished...

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post #7 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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yeah it's not polished that's for sure... damn... guess i cant take sand paper to it then, drats! might have to look into getting them powdercoated at some point in time down the road.

still got the dings to deal with. any ideas? could a small peen ball hammer work?

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post #8 of 13 Old 02-02-2012, 10:49 PM
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When you pack them stuff lots in there it should be well packed.

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post #9 of 13 Old 02-03-2012, 03:55 AM
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PVster... Depending on the Gen version you have, the cores they sent you may too short.. If you have Gen2, you will find the cores they sent (if they are the same as mine) will be 1/2" too short, and what happens is one end of the core will not overlap the end cap.

Take note of the length once you get the original rotted cores out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
hello everyone. received my repack material from sato racing for my sato exhuast today decided to go ahead and tear into them and get them cans prepped/installed since i have a re-tune being done on saturday at noon and want to get these puppies installed.

i've already tore into one of them and the core is toast for sure. the problem i'm having is that i cannot get the packing material/core out. wtf?! it literally is in there solid and all i was able to do was tear out the first inch or so in bits and pieces. i'm not going to be able to do that all the way through the can. does anyone have any experience or suggestions on how to get the guts out of these things?

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post #10 of 13 Old 02-05-2012, 08:42 AM
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When I repacked mine the inner cone caps were shot as well. I took the cores down to my local muffler shop and had them remake the caps.

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post #11 of 13 Old 02-05-2012, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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what a nightmare and a half that was.... after getting the pipes apart and being sicker than a dog breathing in a cloud of dust and everything in the garage being coated with a thin layer of that crap, i was ready to move on! started sealing everything up and putting the rivets on with the new rivet gun i got. never used a rivet gun before so i looked it up online and appeared very easy, in theory at least.... having no experience, it took me 6 or so hours including a nap in the middle to figure out that the rivet gun was a POS that was the problem and i indeed was doing it correctly. i only figured it out because i looked up the rivet gun online to see reviews and it got BAD reviews! all the comments left by customers stated it would work once or twice and then not work after that... ran back to harbor freight and bought the ONLY rivet gun that had good reviews, worked without a single hitch!

got the pipes re-assembled and the bike back together with 20 minutes to spare for getting cleaned up and getting to the tuning session. overall i was pretty surprised how much quieter the satos were compared to the enrions! but damn they sound so good..... tuning session went pretty good. after consulting over emails for a long time, the tuner took special care to try and figure out what was going on in the lower rpm range where i was having trouble once the bike got up to temp and ended up taking out at least 18% across the bottom half of the rpm range. he was horrified to see just how much the ecu was dumping fuel into the system once the fan kicked on and said he's never seen it that bad on any bike even though honda's known for doing that. sadly, i still have the cold start issue but it indeed is improved to where it takes 3-5 tries without giving it throttle for it to hold on it's own whereas before it wouldn't hold period. tuner said to play with it for a few weeks and then report back to him and we'll see what/where we can improve. so far, so good. lower end is much better in terms of throttle response and it's most noticeable when i allow the fan to kick on, no more issues that i had in the past, thank god.

damn these satos sound good, but i'm not sure i like how quiet they sound.. i guess i just got so used to the enrions.... but my god they do sound good! i'm tempted to see about repacking the enrions and see how they turn out before deciding which set to keep. if only the satos were louder....

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post #12 of 13 Old 02-05-2012, 01:34 PM
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Why is your fan kicking on all the time? I'd be lucky if I have heard mine twice in 22,000kms and that was sitting at traffic lights in the hight of summer.

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post #13 of 13 Old 02-05-2012, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Why is your fan kicking on all the time? I'd be lucky if I have heard mine twice in 22,000kms and that was sitting at traffic lights in the hight of summer.
stop and go traffic during rush hour + hov lane that idiots dont know how to use or stay out of if they're not eligible to use it but do anyways. they tend to go slower than they could and wait til they see a cop way up ahead to dive out of the hov lane. sometimes they'll stop completely and hold up traffic until someone lets them in.

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