rebound damping screw - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-22-2020, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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rebound damping screw

Quick question- When adjusting this, the screw will not make a complete revolution- is this normal?

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post #2 of 24 Old 03-22-2020, 09:01 AM
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On the fork? The shock? In either direction?

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post #3 of 24 Old 03-22-2020, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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on the front shocks

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post #4 of 24 Old 03-22-2020, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
on the front shocks
Therefore highly abnormal and also severely ungood.
There should be a nominal 3 turns of range from closed to maximum opening.

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post #5 of 24 Old 03-23-2020, 03:20 AM
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I had a problem with mine because while rebuilding the forks, I didn't realize that the nut inside on the shaft needed to be in a certain spot or range.

I set the nut wrong and had to remove the fork tops in order to reset the nut. IIRC, it's 2 something turns from the bottom. When/if you rebuilt the forks, you should be able to see the rod tip and the nut.

To be clear, the if the nut is set in the wrong position, then you screw will be too far down in the housing or maybe such that you can't turn it.

How long has it been since the forks have been rebuilt? I'm wondering if someone screwed something up, is this bike new to you?

If you set the screw all the way in, you're saying it only turns 1 time (or less) counter-clockwise?

Is the top of the screw below the housing (inset)?

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post #6 of 24 Old 03-23-2020, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all .


It has been a few months since i had a honda shop install .95 springs.
Yes, it will turn at most one full revolution.

Not sure if the stiffer springs has an impact on rebound, but no diff between settings on rebound.

Looks like i probably have time this week to investigate.
Main complaint is that minor bumps get transmitted directly, medium and major road irregularities are absorbed....

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post #7 of 24 Old 03-23-2020, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
Thank you all .


It has been a few months since i had a honda shop install .95 springs.
Yes, it will turn at most one full revolution.

Not sure if the stiffer springs has an impact on rebound, but no diff between settings on rebound.

Looks like i probably have time this week to investigate.
Main complaint is that minor bumps get transmitted directly, medium and major road irregularities are absorbed....
The work recently done explains it all.
During reassembly, the cap was not correctly positioned to the rod.
It needs to be reworked and done correctly, for free.

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post #8 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 10:49 AM
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Yup they set the locking nut in the wrong position. It happens all the time with hacks
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Yup they set the locking nut in the wrong position. It happens all the time with hacks
Indeed.

Plus the addition of the FSM aspect, that said primarily for the DIY'ers.
The 919 FSM was printed on the basis of the pre 04 forks.
I don't think an update was done about the 05+ change to external rebound adjuster.

Even my GSX-R FSM says precious little on the matter, but at least it says there should be a 1.5 mm standoff of the top of the needle rod where the adjusting screw slot is.

Generally, good advice and guidelines seem to be woefully lacking on this matter, proper assembling of cap/locking nut positioning to cartridge rod that is.
As long as shop pros are properly trained and understand the concepts, customers should be OK.
Should is not the same as will.

Out of curiosity, does any of the Ohlins documentation with forks or cartridge kits cover it beyond some basics?

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post #10 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post

Out of curiosity, does any of the Ohlins documentation with forks or cartridge kits cover it beyond some basics?

They do not leave it to chance. When a modern Ohlins cap is installed it is bottomed onto the adjustment rod and the needle is spring loaded in the bottom of the rod. As long as the rebound adjuster is in the most relieved position when installing, (as it should be) then there is zero chance of damage to the needle or seat and impossible to incorrectly set the height as it is preset.

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post #11 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
They do not leave it to chance. When a modern Ohlins cap is installed it is bottomed onto the adjustment rod and the needle is spring loaded in the bottom of the rod. As long as the rebound adjuster is in the most relieved position when installing, (as it should be) then there is zero chance of damage to the needle or seat and impossible to incorrectly set the height as it is preset.
Very nice feature!
Does that apply to caps with cartridge kits?
I'd think it would, but figured on asking to be sure.

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post #12 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 01:47 PM
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Yes. Ohlins supplies their own caps with any cartridge they create.

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post #13 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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ahhhh Ohlins....if only....

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post #14 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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And you are both correct- it is difficult to find an online manual that outlines the 04+ shock

Thanks

2002 Bandit 1250s
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post #15 of 24 Old 03-24-2020, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
And you are both correct- it is difficult to find an online manual that outlines the 04+ shock

Thanks
The most recent fork I had seen a drawing of or insides of, was for my '73 CB750 of damping rod type design.
Then I got my new 05 919.
Then I got my FSM.
And I started scratching my head........................................

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post #16 of 24 Old 03-25-2020, 06:33 PM
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There is a thread here someplace that describes the procedure so that you can set exactly the number of turns that you want on the rebound adjustment. I used it when I rebuilt my F4i forks, and it worked perfectly. I'll see if i can find it.

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post #17 of 24 Old 03-25-2020, 06:56 PM
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I think I found the post I was thinking of:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...d.php?p=484007

One caveat I would add: once you screw the cap on to where the needle bottoms, back out the rebound adjuster (not the cap) 1/4 turn or so before tightening the lock nut. Otherwise you might damage the needle.

Forgot to add: I don't think you need to remove the wheel; just get it off the ground to unload the forks.

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post #18 of 24 Old 03-25-2020, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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thank you- huge help. probably going to replace oil and remove forks but much appreciated.

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post #19 of 24 Old 03-25-2020, 08:05 PM
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I check this regularly when rebuilding forks, typically there is about 10-12mm of threaded shaft above the nut. Not a big deal to fix just a PITA.
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post #20 of 24 Old 03-26-2020, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
thank you- huge help. probably going to replace oil and remove forks but much appreciated.
https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...rns-81125.html

You may also find this one of some further assistance.
In particular the "cheater method" info.
Posts #6, 7 & 8 primarily.

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post #21 of 24 Old 03-27-2020, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. Taking the forks off today. This info was apparently out there and I was not able to sort through all the suspension posts, so .....THANKS!

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post #22 of 24 Old 03-27-2020, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
Thank you. Taking the forks off today. This info was apparently out there and I was not able to sort through all the suspension posts, so .....THANKS!
Don't forget to "set" the forks after you're done. One way of setting the forks is to loosen up EVERY bolt on the forks except the ONE top most bolt. Then bounce the bike as hard as you can to work the forks thru their range. Remember, the fender bolts count too, so you have to loosen up the fender.

There's some other posts about this subject and the bounce method is simple, IIRC, there's a more accurate/involved process, but at least do something.

The point of this is that the forks need to be lined up, if they aren't lined up, they'll work against each other, kinds like car tires pointing two different directions.

If you're doing the seals, a section of PVC pipe will set the seal, I cut slots to get it to fit just right, only costs a few bucks.

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post #23 of 24 Old 03-28-2020, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Will do. Followed the instructions provided earlier but pics help and this seems to work. first pic loosen the nut/fork cap, second- adjust the gap between nut and bottom of fork cap by spinning the fork cap and checking that the rebound screw can go around 3 turns, then tighten up....
Hopefully this is correct...lol
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post #24 of 24 Old 03-30-2020, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenCO 919 View Post
Will do. Followed the instructions provided earlier but pics help and this seems to work. first pic loosen the nut/fork cap, second- adjust the gap between nut and bottom of fork cap by spinning the fork cap and checking that the rebound screw can go around 3 turns, then tighten up....
Hopefully this is correct...lol
Sounds like the exact same problem I had and it looks like you got it covered. Don't forget to "set" the forks. You have to loosen up every bolt touching the forks, except the top one, then bounce heavy so that they are lined up with each other.

There's a nice write up about this process, but at least do something more than just bolting things together and of then the torque re-check after a number of miles just to make sure.

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