Reasonably price front disk options. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-22-2019, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Reasonably price front disk options.

Looks like I might be in the market for some new front disks. They work, but I'm having a rough time getting rid of the squeal. Even after scruffing/sanding, it comes back after a while.

I'm going to be replacing the pads for the 2nd time this year and need to start looking at what options that I have.

Some EOM listing are showing $300 a side, so $600 total. Not going to happen. I thought one dealer had them for $98/each. Surely there must be a good option for us. Maybe after market or swaps from the F4 or whatever.

Funny thing is that the grooves seem to be smoothing out, but the pads are still making the noise.

I put the special grease on the back of the pads and that (plus scuffing) helped for a day or two.

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post #2 of 20 Old 09-23-2019, 11:31 AM
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I've been running the BikeMaster front rotors for a couple years now and I don't have any complaints so far
I've run used F4i rotors in the past too, only difference is the cartier is aluminum instead of steel

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post #3 of 20 Old 09-23-2019, 12:08 PM
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You could try here: https://www.metalgear.com.au/

I'm running some custom ones that let me fit my F3 wheel to a KTM fork with Brembo calipers, and their performance has been excellent to date.

Don't know what the eventual cost with delivery to you would be, though.

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post #4 of 20 Old 09-23-2019, 03:33 PM
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I also ran some stock look-alike ebay ones for quite a while without issues, but I know some are leery of goods from that source

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-For-Hon...88248b5252a013

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post #5 of 20 Old 09-23-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1w1Boy View Post
I also ran some stock look-alike ebay ones for quite a while without issues, but I know some are leery of goods from that source

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-For-Hon...88248b5252a013
That's about 1/2 the price of others. That might be the way to go, thanks.

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post #6 of 20 Old 09-23-2019, 06:19 PM
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I wonder what these are like? Tourmax, supposedly made in Japan.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F113760016060

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post #7 of 20 Old 09-24-2019, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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I wonder what these are like? Tourmax, supposedly made in Japan.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F113760016060
Looks interesting, but doesn't ship to US. Don't know why, but it doesn't.

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post #8 of 20 Old 09-24-2019, 12:47 AM
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They might ship to the US. You need to message them first. It's done through some eBay global shipping program.
Said wouldn't ship to Australia but I messaged them now it will.

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post #9 of 20 Old 09-24-2019, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
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They might ship to the US. You need to message them first. It's done through some eBay global shipping program.
Said wouldn't ship to Australia but I messaged them now it will.
Thanks, didn't know that.

I did notice it was in Japan and after some hunting, the eBay ones listed in the link above that didn't say Japan or even where they were made, however their location is China, so I assume they are made in China.

So the other ones are cheaper by $40ish and are made and/or located in China.

I wonder what the net cost would be.


I'm not sure if I should just get new pads and see if that takes care of the noise problem. I did run grease, but didn't run that rubbery goop that comes with some pad kits and also, since I'm already due for new pads, maybe give a different set a try.

I'd hate to spend $200 + on disks if I can just get mine to shut up.

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post #10 of 20 Old 09-24-2019, 09:38 PM
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Have you bedded in your pads after the sanding?

Have you cleaned and greased the buttons on the rotors?
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post #11 of 20 Old 09-25-2019, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Have you bedded in your pads after the sanding?

Have you cleaned and greased the buttons on the rotors?
I'm not sure how to bed in the pads. I scuffed, sanded and the surface looks smoother but still some groves.

I started to clean the buttons, but stopped after two of them. I didn't think they would really matter.

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post #12 of 20 Old 09-25-2019, 05:31 PM
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I'd go back and clean the bobbins.

1. Can't hurt.
2. Half an hour of your time vs. a few hundred dollars.

It's worth a shot.

Have you tried Honda pads?

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post #13 of 20 Old 09-25-2019, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by robroten View Post
I'd go back and clean the bobbins.

1. Can't hurt.
2. Half an hour of your time vs. a few hundred dollars.

It's worth a shot.

Have you tried Honda pads?
They weren't Honda pads, I'm due for some new ones now so maybe that's the better choice.

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 09:43 PM
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Clean the buttons. They help and is easy to do. Are you using the nut, bolt, and washer trick to do them? Makes it a lot faster.

You need to bed in your pads when you change the surfaces of the rotors and/or the pads. Easy to do. Get up to about 65 mph, brake hard to 10mph. Repeat 9 more times, let brake system cool down, done.

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post #15 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Clean the buttons. They help and is easy to do. Are you using the nut, bolt, and washer trick to do them? Makes it a lot faster.

You need to bed in your pads when you change the surfaces of the rotors and/or the pads. Easy to do. Get up to about 65 mph, brake hard to 10mph. Repeat 9 more times, let brake system cool down, done.
I was using the nut/bolt trick, but I stopped after about 3 of them on one side.

I got a new "stabbing" parts brush and carb cleaner, I'm going to clean them fully this time.

I also heard that the OEM pads don't make as much noise as the after market ones I've got. I think I got the EBC brand and the local shop said they stopped selling them because of the noise.

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post #16 of 20 Old 10-01-2019, 07:44 AM
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Be easy to clean your rotors up when you do your tyre change.
Any reason why the rotors couldn't come off during the tyre change? Would prevent damage to them during the tyre change and it would make cleaning the rotors real easy.

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post #17 of 20 Old 10-01-2019, 11:23 AM
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[QUOTE=Pvster;1360151]Clean the buttons. They help and is easy to do. Are you using the nut, bolt, and washer trick to do them? Makes it a lot faster.

You need to bed in your pads when you change the surfaces of the rotors and/or the pads. Easy to do. Get up to about 65 mph, brake hard to 10mph. Repeat 9 more times, let brake system cool down, done.[/QUOTE


This. It transfers the pad material to the disc. Im waiting on my new pads (Honda) to get here and watched a good video i could link describing the process. https://youtu.be/1rlmdCkokbE

I must not have enough posts to link the vid. Sorry. Ill get ta spamming right away.

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post #18 of 20 Old 10-01-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Be easy to clean your rotors up when you do your tyre change.
Any reason why the rotors couldn't come off during the tyre change? Would prevent damage to them during the tyre change and it would make cleaning the rotors real easy.
Generally, I try to not take off things unless I actually need to. The thing is that I know the disks are properly attached right now, but if I take them off, I'd have to be concerned about them holding properly.

IDK if they require lock tite or what, then there's the issue of proper torquing and getting the allen head socket to torque them.

Not a big deal, just more work that I can avoid if I build a platform to protect the disks.

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post #19 of 20 Old 10-01-2019, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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[quote=Heavy_Metal;1360245]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
Clean the buttons. They help and is easy to do. Are you using the nut, bolt, and washer trick to do them? Makes it a lot faster.

You need to bed in your pads when you change the surfaces of the rotors and/or the pads. Easy to do. Get up to about 65 mph, brake hard to 10mph. Repeat 9 more times, let brake system cool down, done.[/QUOTE


This. It transfers the pad material to the disc. Im waiting on my new pads (Honda) to get here and watched a good video i could link describing the process. https://youtu.be/1rlmdCkokbE

I must not have enough posts to link the vid. Sorry. Ill get ta spamming right away.
That's interesting, I never thought of brake pad material transferring to the disk. I always thought of the pad as changing it's shape to the shape of the disk.

Basically you have a hard surface and a softer surface, the high parts of the harder surface need to carve their shape into the pad so you get more contact area.

That's part of the theory behind sanding down the disks, you reduce some of the groves and glaze so that you have a flatter contact area.

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post #20 of 20 Old 10-02-2019, 10:46 AM
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[quote=KarlJay;1360251]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy_Metal View Post

That's interesting, I never thought of brake pad material transferring to the disk. I always thought of the pad as changing it's shape to the shape of the disk.

Basically you have a hard surface and a softer surface, the high parts of the harder surface need to carve their shape into the pad so you get more contact area.

That's part of the theory behind sanding down the disks, you reduce some of the groves and glaze so that you have a flatter contact area.
HH Sintered pads are more abrasive than other types of pads. So they have a slight sanding action on the disk when used.

If you're using organic or more ''street'' pads, they are less abrasive and, as you said, conform more to the rotor surface.

Bedding-in pads is slightly overkill for street use from my research. It is however, more important for agressive street and track use. Since it does not take long to do, it is recommended generally.

A thing to note also, is that when using HH sintered pads, due to their more abrasive nature, you'll have to re-bed the pads after longer periods of moderate brake use (like commuting) because they will ''rub off'' the pad material deposited on the rotor.

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