RaceTech Springs Preload Questions - Wrist Twisters
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 7 Old 07-02-2015, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
The chill Moderator
 
07919Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: COS:CO
Posts: 3,304
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Veteran 
Total Awards: 1

RaceTech Springs Preload Questions

Okay, so first off let me say I did search last night and found many great articles on RaceTech springs and instillation but I am still left with some questions.

I have a 2007 919 (incase the name didn't give it away)

1. I know we have Cartridge Type forks. And for what I can gather we have Internal Top-Out type. Is this correct?

2. When you forum member say to "Backout" the rebound and preload all the way, what do you mean by this? Turn the preload so no lines are showing or all the lines are showing? rebound should go soft or hard?

3. When measuring for preload should I just just the spacer to equal the free length of the old spring?

Thanks for the help!!

Never Trade the Thrills of Living for the Security of Existence.
07919Dave is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 Old 07-02-2015, 09:05 PM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,966
Rep Power: 1
 
1
Correct.

2
Back out the preload = ride height adjusters by making sure all indicator rings are showing.
Do not back out the rebound all the way. Instead, close it down so it barely bottoms out, the slightest feel is all you want. Then back out 1/2 or 1 full turn, then disassemble. When you start to reassemble, turn it back in the 1/2 or 1 turn you used, then lightly run down the cap again looking for the lightest feel of touch, then run run up the lock nut to lightest touch of feel. Then back out the screw again either 1/2 or 1, and tighten the lock nut. Then again lightly turn in the rebound screw to lightest touch, then back out to the same setting you had been using.

3
NO !
You want a certain preload.
The factory uses more preload that I assume you want to run.
Determine the preload you want to use, then follow the instructions to derive it, then cut your spacer to the correct length to net you the desired preload.

Trust this helps you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07919Dave View Post
Okay, so first off let me say I did search last night and found many great articles on RaceTech springs and instillation but I am still left with some questions.

I have a 2007 919 (incase the name didn't give it away)

1. I know we have Cartridge Type forks. And for what I can gather we have Internal Top-Out type. Is this correct?

2. When you forum member say to "Backout" the rebound and preload all the way, what do you mean by this? Turn the preload so no lines are showing or all the lines are showing? rebound should go soft or hard?

3. When measuring for preload should I just just the spacer to equal the free length of the old spring?

Thanks for the help!!

mcromo44 is offline  
post #3 of 7 Old 07-02-2015, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
The chill Moderator
 
07919Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: COS:CO
Posts: 3,304
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Veteran 
Total Awards: 1

Okay so with rebound you're saying go all the way in (Hard) till it is slightly seated and then back out one turn.

If I am not mistaken and according to our FSM that is already the stock position. I've never changed my settings from stock.

So I am really just taking all preload out of the suspension before I remove the cap. And then measuring for the recommended 10mm of preload to cut my spacers.

Also, what size socket do I need for the cap?

Never Trade the Thrills of Living for the Security of Existence.
07919Dave is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 Old 07-03-2015, 05:43 AM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,966
Rep Power: 1
 
The rebound needle issue is more complex than just the setting. I'll try and paste in a blurb after this post, if too big, will have to e mail you on the side, unless it's in the WT drop box.

Yes, when you take out the fork cap you are also relieving the internal preload.

24 mm socket for the fork cap. I have found strap wrench to be good to hold the tube if forks are off the bike, otherwise crack them loose before removing the forks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 07919Dave View Post
Okay so with rebound you're saying go all the way in (Hard) till it is slightly seated and then back out one turn.

If I am not mistaken and according to our FSM that is already the stock position. I've never changed my settings from stock.

So I am really just taking all preload out of the suspension before I remove the cap. And then measuring for the recommended 10mm of preload to cut my spacers.

Also, what size socket do I need for the cap?

mcromo44 is offline  
post #5 of 7 Old 07-03-2015, 05:44 AM
McTavish
 
mcromo44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary
Posts: 5,966
Rep Power: 1
 
You won't find this in the manual, or most manuals for that matter.

The issue is this, rebound rod needle ends must never be bottomed out in the taper when you are breaking loose or nipping up the cartridge rod's locknut against the mating surface of the fork cap where the rod threads in.

Proper procedure before disassembly is to very lightly bottom out the needle.
Then back out the rebound adjuster 1/2 turn (or 1/4 or 1, it matters not, as long as you know what you used, I use 1/2).
Then loosen the cartridge rod lock nut.
Once you have the fork cap and rebound adjuster rod out of the fork tube and in your hand, turn the rebound adjuster rod back in the same amount.
When you go to reassemble, very lightly run the cap down on the rebound rod until its needle end very lightly seats.
Then back out the rebound adjuster 1/2 turn (or 1/4 or 1, it matters not, as long as you know what you used, I use 1/2).
Then tighten the cartridge rod lock nut.
Then turn the rebound adjuster back in until it again very lightly seats.
Then back it out all the way, and count how many turns you get.
It should be around 3.
Then turn the rebound adjuster all the way again until it very lightly seats again.
Back out 2 full turns, and use that as your starting point.
IF you find you can't get 2 full turns, then you have a problem, likely from the rod being improperly positioned in the fork cap to begin with. Too many turns is also a bad indicator.
If you find yourself in either predicament, it just means that the rebound adjuster rod was set to high or too low in the fork cap to begin with.

mcromo44 is offline  
post #6 of 7 Old 07-03-2015, 08:16 AM
GLG-20
 
Superdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,366
Rep Power: 1
 
Garage
During reassembly you can ensure the rod will be at about 3 turns if you want. Before putting the cap on the cartridge rod, you can turn the adjuster counter-clockwise until it stops, then turn it in 3 full turns. Follow McRomo's instructions for putting it all back together and you should be good.

'96 DR650, '01 SV650, '10 Aprilia Tuono 1000R
Superdog is offline  
post #7 of 7 Old 04-02-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
The chill Moderator
 
07919Dave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: COS:CO
Posts: 3,304
Rep Power: 1
 

Awards Showcase
Veteran 
Total Awards: 1

So I came across an issue thinking I had a small leak from my clutch side fork as the wheel was spaded that way and it was very dirty. Upon inspection I notice a difference is the way the rod bolt was set back between the two forks, with the clutch side out more than the brake side.

Putting the forks back together it went in the same way. I torqued them down to spec so now time will tell if I have an issue.

I went with .95kg from RacTech and then SS-8 10w fork oil at 140mm from Honda. I just have to set safe and go for a test.

Here are some Picts to show what I am talking about.

ImageUploadedByMO Free1459647202.749462.jpgImageUploadedByMO Free1459647215.439380.jpgImageUploadedByMO Free1459647230.328564.jpgImageUploadedByMO Free1459647243.501912.jpgImageUploadedByMO Free1459647254.321217.jpg


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

Never Trade the Thrills of Living for the Security of Existence.
07919Dave is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Wrist Twisters forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome