racetech spring installation question...guidance... - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-25-2013, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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racetech spring installation question...guidance...

Hello everyone. I picked up my. 95 front springs and im excited to get them installed...but some things that came into my brain.

1. Why do you need to cut the spacer pipe that comes with them? I mean, would it be detrimental to use the preload ... err... ride height spacers that come in the forks? If so, pipe cutter? Ive never worked on front suspension. Go easy on me if possible.

2. I must admit that im nervous on messing with something that supports my entire life at 80mph, anyone within 200 or so miles (minneapolis is a nice ride for me) willing to help me out when the weather warms up? Id spot you a case of your favorite beer, or something. Im a visual learner, never worked well from a book...if i cant disassemble it visually im bound to mess up. And with all the tips i read about backing preload all the way, needles(i think) etc, etc, im just not comfortable enough. Youtube could help, but i need model specific instructions, not generic guidelines.

You might say take it to the shop and i might, but they are quoting a little much...granted im also putting on a new pr3 this spring as well but thought I'd see if anyone would be willing to walk a newbie through it.

I may not have a lot to say but it doesn't mean I don't listen.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-25-2013, 10:46 PM
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it is not as bad as you think. Did they precut the spacers for you?

I thought they did in the kit. maybe not.


Either way dude, it is not that bad. You just need something to hold the fork nice. I also remember something about raising the fluid level.

Let the experts speak........

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-26-2013, 01:32 AM
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Velo, you need to cut the spacers in order to make the new spring/spacer the same length as the old spring/spacer. Here's some reading or you:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...lve-29480.html

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post #4 of 10 Old 03-26-2013, 08:06 AM
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ya you wont know untill you get the original springs n spacers out and lay em next to the new springs n spacers to see if you need to cut anything.

That said spring replacement is easy, Undo the upper triple clamp, turn the rebound and preload adjusters out all the way (full counter clock wise) and loosen the top cap while the fork is held by the lower triple. Once its loose enough to hand turn, loosen the bottom triple, and pull the fork out.

Loose the top cap all the way from the fork tube n drain the oil. Remove the top spring keeper (the round disk with a slot in it), Remove the top cap from the rod (should be VERY apparent how to do so once you have it open). At this point slide the original spacer out, and original spring.

Then have a look at the service manual how to fill her back up with oil i would suggest a +25mm oil height over stock, this will help with bottoming. Then go in reverse order after you have verified new spring n spacer length.

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post #5 of 10 Old 03-26-2013, 07:41 PM
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Use a pipe cutter.
Follow the Racetech instructions re spacer length determination, which for such springs should not more than 15 mm of installed preload with the ride height adjusters fully backed out. Absolute maximum would be 20 mm of installed preload, but that would only be for an very very heavily loaded bike. If you merely match the total free length of Racetech spring + spacer to OEM spring + OEM spacer, you won't know what the installed preload will be, other than knowing it will surely be excessive. Generally, stiffer springs use less installed preload, and 0.95s are very stiff in comparison to stock.
If you have access to the DropBox I have some rudimentary notes there in the Suspension section, along with the Racetech instructions. I found a 90 mm long spacer gave me 15 mm of installed preload when I put in my Racetech 0.925s.
Do not use less than 140 mm oil level.
Do not use more than 125 mm oil level.
Do not go heavier than 10W if you have stock cartridges, stay with 10W.

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post #6 of 10 Old 03-26-2013, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, ill reas and read and if i get stuck, ill be posting my questions or taking them to the shop.

I may not have a lot to say but it doesn't mean I don't listen.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-27-2013, 01:33 AM
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Don't sweat it Velo, if you can change your oil you can do this.

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post #8 of 10 Old 05-18-2013, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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As an update, .95s installed, 130mm height and only messup was my crescent slipping on my fork cap (Dang that blue alu is soft!!!). Besides the one fork cap character mark the hardest thing was getting the bike hoisted and trying to cut my spacers. The harbor freight pipe cutter I bought was operating as a threader with the aluminum spacers pipe included, so I brought out the hacksaw and grinder wheel then a good rinse with simple green to get any shaving/burrs off.

You will need a pipe cutter that goes more than 1 3/8. All the smaller ones only go to 1 1/8. At least, that was my case.

Cleaned my rotors and calipers, wanted to spray the belly of my lower tripples with some rustolean as they are showing signs of rust but didn't get a chance to and with some new grease for the front axel and pilot road 3 the bike feels awesome.

Thanks again everyone!

I may not have a lot to say but it doesn't mean I don't listen.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-18-2013, 04:46 PM
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Glad you got it done! Told you it wasn't that bad.

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post #10 of 10 Old 05-19-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velodesign View Post
only messup was using my crescent
fixed it for you.

if you love your motorcycle, set it free.. if it comes back and hits you.. you highsided
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