Question on TwoBros single side, high-mount exhaust conversion for 919 - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Question on TwoBros single side, high-mount exhaust conversion for 919

I just replaced my stock dual cans with a single-side, high-mount Two Brothers exhaust I found on eBay. It's the carbon fiber black series can, which I don't think TB sells for the 919 but someone had adapted it to work with the S pipe for the 919. It sounds great! It looks pretty good, but may look better on a black 919. My photos aren't great.

Question for anyone who has done this conversion: Did your S pipe end up very close, almost touching, the coil spring on the rear shock? Mine is about 1/16" away from touching. I can't tell if that coil spring is painted red, or has a rubber-type red coating on it. Feels like paint. Either way, is the S pipe being that close going to be a problem with heat on that coil spring?

Also, the rear stock brake line was actually touching the S pipe when I got everything installed. I had to loosen the brake line connection closest to the S pipe and twist it outward a bit, and manipulate the whole line a bit to get it away from the S pipe. I plant to replace it with a stainless steel line soon.

Also, I didn't use any sealant at the connection of the S pipe to the stock header. TB says to use some Permatex black gasket maker, but it fit pretty tight, so I didn't use it.

Anyway, main question is as to the S pipe being too close to the spring on the shock. I'm no mechanic, so I would really appreciate if someone out there could let me know on this. I've attached a few photos.

Thanks in advance for any tips!!

And yes.... I do plan to get rid of that stock tail/snow shovel soon!
Attached Images
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post #2 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 05:49 PM
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Talk to Asianredneck i am pretty sure it is his old exhaust

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post #3 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 08:44 PM
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Yes and yes. I had the single sided exhaust on my 9er. The midpipe did come very close to the shock. It made me a little nervous... But it never touched.

As far as the brake line, I rotates the banjo as you did, but I pulled the line outside the fist slot of the tire hugger (closest to the banjo). This allowed me to rotate the banjo without adding too much bend to the brake line.



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post #4 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 08:56 PM
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How does it sound?

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post #5 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coastie_steve005 View Post
Talk to Asianredneck i am pretty sure it is his old exhaust
Thanks. I didn't get it from Asianredneck, but I guess it maybe the guy I got it from got him from him.

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post #6 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks crakerjac. That's good to know. I think it will be okay next to the shock. I got in from riding a little while ago and when I looked it appeared to be touching. It might have moved some with vibration and bumps. I think it should be okay. And I'll try doing what you did with your brake line to free it up a bit. Thanks!

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post #7 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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It sounds pretty good. I guess this is not popular, but I found it a bit too loud. I really did like the sound of the dual stock cans. You could be in stealth mode at low rpm's, but then it had a nice little growl when getting on it. I may get one of the Two Brothers power tips they have to drop it a few decibels. Also, I get popping on deceleration (not bad), so I guess I need to do the PAIRS mod for that. It does sound good, but just loud. In a few months I plan to do the 900RR conversion and use this same can as a low-mount. I want to get rid of the stink.

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post #8 of 36 Old 10-21-2012, 09:30 PM
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Could you put a fatter spacer in under the tail? This might help pull it away from the shock a bit...

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post #9 of 36 Old 10-22-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Could you put a fatter spacer in under the tail? This might help pull it away from the shock a bit...
Yes. Thanks. I just took the tail off and it's easy to see now that the outlet side of the can is kind of angled in toward the bike. I will need to fab a little piece of metal to attach to the can strap to give it an offset that will move the can away from the bike and let it come straight back parallel with the bike, and that should be just enough to twist that S pipe away from the shock.

Thanks very much!

With this new pipe, it idles a bit rough. I'm hoping that after driving it for a while, the FI system will sort itself out so it runs smoother.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!

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post #10 of 36 Old 10-23-2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easywheeler View Post
Yes. Thanks. I just took the tail off and it's easy to see now that the outlet side of the can is kind of angled in toward the bike. I will need to fab a little piece of metal to attach to the can strap to give it an offset that will move the can away from the bike and let it come straight back parallel with the bike, and that should be just enough to twist that S pipe away from the shock.

Thanks very much!

With this new pipe, it idles a bit rough. I'm hoping that after driving it for a while, the FI system will sort itself out so it runs smoother.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!
The FI will sort itself out?
How so, or have you grafted a PC5 on to it with a sniffer and auto mapping?
If not, then corrective mapping via some kind of device such as a PC3usb will be needed.

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post #11 of 36 Old 10-23-2012, 02:34 PM
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Or synchronize the throttle bodies, as Ferris has done. That is supposed to smooth out the idling.

Could be that with this new pipe, you're actually just 'hearing' the bike run. On stock pipes, it can muffle some of the nuances of the bike, like a 'hunting' idle.

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post #12 of 36 Old 10-23-2012, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
The FI will sort itself out?
How so, or have you grafted a PC5 on to it with a sniffer and auto mapping?
If not, then corrective mapping via some kind of device such as a PC3usb will be needed.
Well, my understanding (albeit limited) of the Honda fuel injection system on that bike is that it does a very good job of adjusting itself to changing conditions. That's what I meant by saying it might sort itself out.

Also, from all the various posts I've read, the consensus is that the bike should run fine with aftermarket pipe(s) and not need a PCIII to make it run right.
Even the Two Brothers Racing website says after market pipe(s) can be put on without a need for a PCIII, or similar device. Of course I've heard great things about the PCIII USB, and how it will improve throttle response and other things, and I will probably get one eventually, but not right away.

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post #13 of 36 Old 10-23-2012, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
Or synchronize the throttle bodies, as Ferris has done. That is supposed to smooth out the idling.

Could be that with this new pipe, you're actually just 'hearing' the bike run. On stock pipes, it can muffle some of the nuances of the bike, like a 'hunting' idle.
As for the synchronizing, that sounds interesting. I don't know how to do it. I guess it's similar to synchronizing carbs on a non-fuel-injected bike? I guess I can search for the post by Ferris and research that. Thanks for the tip.


As to "hearing" the bike run, very good possibility. That does make sense. I am definitely hearing the bike run much more with this free-flowing exhaust. Like I mentioned before, it's still too loud for my taste. I ordered the P1X tip from TBR that should quiet it a bit. I've read good things about the results with that tip. Thanks for the info. I'll report back after I get the tip installed and get the can adjusted a bit so the mid-pipe is clear of the shock spring.
(Of course I know adding the tip won't affect how it idles, I am interested in hearing how it will affect the sound.)

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post #14 of 36 Old 10-24-2012, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easywheeler View Post
Well, my understanding (albeit limited) of the Honda fuel injection system on that bike is that it does a very good job of adjusting itself to changing conditions. That's what I meant by saying it might sort itself out.

Also, from all the various posts I've read, the consensus is that the bike should run fine with aftermarket pipe(s) and not need a PCIII to make it run right.
Even the Two Brothers Racing website says after market pipe(s) can be put on without a need for a PCIII, or similar device. Of course I've heard great things about the PCIII USB, and how it will improve throttle response and other things, and I will probably get one eventually, but not right away.
The base map from the factory is poor.
All the sensors do is maintain the poor mapping over the full range of conditions.
Of course, one can run stock or aftermarket exhausts on a factory map alone and not have a PC, but if you ever get a chance to ride a well mapped 919, you'll want one too !

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post #15 of 36 Old 10-24-2012, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easywheeler View Post
As for the synchronizing, that sounds interesting. I don't know how to do it. I guess it's similar to synchronizing carbs on a non-fuel-injected bike? I guess I can search for the post by Ferris and research that. Thanks for the tip.


As to "hearing" the bike run, very good possibility. That does make sense. I am definitely hearing the bike run much more with this free-flowing exhaust. Like I mentioned before, it's still too loud for my taste. I ordered the P1X tip from TBR that should quiet it a bit. I've read good things about the results with that tip. Thanks for the info. I'll report back after I get the tip installed and get the can adjusted a bit so the mid-pipe is clear of the shock spring.
(Of course I know adding the tip won't affect how it idles, I am interested in hearing how it will affect the sound.)
Did you happen to find the threads about sync'in the 9er? Mine seems to idle kinda rough too. Enough that the clutch lever rattles like change in a salvation army bucket a walmart. I tried searching but didn't have any luck.

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post #16 of 36 Old 10-24-2012, 02:07 PM
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Here you go guys:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ure-31333.html

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post #17 of 36 Old 10-24-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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The base map from the factory is poor.
All the sensors do is maintain the poor mapping over the full range of conditions.
Of course, one can run stock or aftermarket exhausts on a factory map alone and not have a PC, but if you ever get a chance to ride a well mapped 919, you'll want one too !
Okay. I get what you are saying now. That makes sense. When my wallet recovers from getting all these other goodies for the 9r, PCIII USB is next on the list!

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post #18 of 36 Old 10-24-2012, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

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post #19 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 06:05 AM
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Would the valves being out of sync cause these vibes. My clutch lever rattles like crazy, as do my mirrors at idle.

919vibes - YouTube

I have no idea how to upload the vid so that it shows up in the post so here is a link to the 10sec vibes vid.

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post #20 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 07:17 AM
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post #21 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 09:44 AM
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My clutch lever did that with the stock bars.

Once I swapped out bars and bar ends, it went away. Left side of the 919 is known for vibrating like crazy, especially around ~4k rpm's (at least on mine). 5k was silky smooth.

Put blue loctite on your gear shifter - they are known to fall off due to the vibes!

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post #22 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrow919 View Post
Would the valves being out of sync cause these vibes. My clutch lever rattles like crazy, as do my mirrors at idle.

919vibes - YouTube

I have no idea how to upload the vid so that it shows up in the post so here is a link to the 10sec vibes vid.
The starter valves being out of synch have zero to do with the vibe.
The Throttle Bodies being out of synch could be a player re idle vibe, but more likely the observable effect would be a loping/hunting idle.
Frankly, I feel that far too much weight is being given to perfectly balanced T Bs. They are bench set at the factory, and might even be checked at run in. Unless a bike is really high mileage and has uneven ring and/or valve sealing, or the T Bs have been messed with, they should be fine as is for most of the 919s out there.
If one suspects them or wants to be super picky, then for sure check them, but don't fall into the trap of seeing them as a pancea for everything.
If you have the things needed to do it yourself, then why not, but paying a shop to do it should require some good reasoning for doing so.

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post #23 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 10:20 AM
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^^ Agreed. The vibes give the bike some personality.

I used to live by the motto "If it aint broken, it doesn't have enough mods yet"... I had to stop because I was always broke and nothing worked.



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post #24 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
My clutch lever did that with the stock bars.

Once I swapped out bars and bar ends, it went away. Left side of the 919 is known for vibrating like crazy, especially around ~4k rpm's (at least on mine). 5k was silky smooth.

Put blue loctite on your gear shifter - they are known to fall off due to the vibes!
I have renthal bars and rizoma bar ends installed. They did help, but only slightly. Any other thoughts on what might cause/ how to remedy the rattle snake clutch lever?

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post #25 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
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I have renthal bars and rizoma bar ends installed. They did help, but only slightly. Any other thoughts on what might cause/ how to remedy the rattle snake clutch lever?
How heavy are the Riz bar ends ?
I'm using LSL bar ends in my Renthal ULs.
I have CRG bar end OD clamp on mirrors which are clear all the time.
The LSL ends are pretty hefty.
Are your bar ends jammed up so close that they are not totally free to float within the rubber?
Past that, the only way I can see chasing the lever vibe away is try and shim out the axial clearance such that it's minimized.
You might also want to check your clutch cable slack.
Too tight or too loose might be a factor.
Something else, what mirrors are you using?
Weight and rigidity of the overall mirror could also be a factor.

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post #26 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 12:01 PM
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Did you check the lever perch bolt and nut/tighten them up?

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post #27 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
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Did you check the lever perch bolt and nut/tighten them up?
Good question !
Yet another element to be checked out.

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post #28 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 02:16 PM
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I made sure to leave clearance on both sides between the bar ends and the bar, and yes I’ve checked the bolts and cable slack. I like to leave a little bit of play in the pull of the lever before the clutch engages. Helps keep the hand from crampin' up in traffic. As far as the weight of the bar ends, they aren't very heavy, the factory ones were heavier. O, and I have rizoma mirrors.

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post #29 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 02:32 PM
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Maybe the Riz bar ends are a bit light.
I'm assuming they are a good match for handlebar bore size.

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post #30 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 03:30 PM
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Riz bar ends are very light. This fixed ALL vibes in my bars:

1) Rizoma Conical bars (29mm diameter center - requires adapters) - Note: this is not a cheap solution.

2) Rizoma bar end MIRRORS. Yup. I thought I was going to get a crap load of vibes from taking out my bar ends and putting mirrors in. Couldn't be farther from the truth, I put the Spy Q bar end mirrors in and all vibes were GONE.

I could actually see TWO headlights instead of 4 or 8, when buzzing at highway speeds, it was incredible.

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post #31 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 03:58 PM
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I've got conical rizoma bars without bar ends. Very noticeable reduction in vibes, even my gopro vids has less vibration (mounted on the brake fluid reservoir). You can get cheaper adapters from ebay for $30 and they work fine. They're branded as 'Tusk' but are identical to a T to Pro-Taper ones, both are made in Taiwan (go figure).

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post #32 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1 View Post
I've got conical rizoma bars without bar ends. Very noticeable reduction in vibes, even my gopro vids has less vibration (mounted on the brake fluid reservoir). You can get cheaper adapters from ebay for $30 and they work fine. They're branded as 'Tusk' but are identical to a T to Pro-Taper ones, both are made in Taiwan (go figure).
Good idea on the adapters. The Rizoma one's are north of $100...

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post #33 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 04:12 PM
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^

Whille I'm sure it's metal art compared to the straight forward Pro-Tapers...c'mon $100?! I scored my conical bars for $45 shipped

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post #34 of 36 Old 10-25-2012, 04:49 PM
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That was the main reason I got the renthals, to cut out the vibes, and they helped alot. I really only have issues at idle. I just put the renthals on about a month ago so i'll run them for a while. If I can find an awesome deal on some conical bars like andrew did, I'll try 'em out. Are the vibes the only reason for getting conicals?

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post #35 of 36 Old 03-14-2013, 02:17 PM
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Whats the diameter of the s pipe.. i wanna try my hand at muffler making

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post #36 of 36 Old 03-14-2013, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Whats the diameter of the s pipe.. i wanna try my hand at muffler making
It's 2" o.d. on my S pipe. Well, to be precise, I measured it at 1-31/32" o.d.
And that is the S pipe that comes with the Two Bros. single-sided high-mount
exhaust.

Good luck with your project!

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