Question about forks - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Question about forks

Ok here's the deal. I have some racetech springs and I would like to install them. Eventually I will have the gold valves put in but for now I will only be doing the springs.

My question. What is the easiest way to install the springs. Maybe some photos. Please



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post #2 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 04:55 PM
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Here ya go Brian Link


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post #3 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCrimmon View Post
Here ya go Brian Link
Thank you chris. I preciate that



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post #4 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 05:15 PM
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I'm partial to chopsticks.

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post #5 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
Thank you chris. I preciate that
No problem bud...Anytime

Quote:
Originally Posted by sbeau1960 View Post
I'm partial to chopsticks.


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post #6 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-23-2009, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
Chris chek your texts.
Oh snap...I thought I heard my phone go cartoon ricochet again I'll be back


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post #8 of 18 Old 04-25-2009, 02:14 PM
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Hey Brian - Did you get the springs swapped?

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post #9 of 18 Old 04-25-2009, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMike View Post
Hey Brian - Did you get the springs swapped?
No sir. I have to go buy some 6 point sockets. I don't wanna scratch it. I will probably do it Tuesday

And take pics cause it's the newer adjustable forks



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post #10 of 18 Old 04-25-2009, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
No sir. I have to go buy some 6 point sockets. I don't wanna scratch it. I will probably do it Tuesday

And take pics cause it's the newer adjustable forks
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-26-2009, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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well, i got aggravated and changed the springs out... i didnt take pictures because i did it at 11:30p.m. outside here with a flashlight... (i was irritated about something and it helps to work on something)... anyway there is no difference really between mr mikes instructions for the older model and the newer adjustable forks... easy peasy..
i raised the front wheel off the ground about 1" or so (didnt measure)
i loosened the choke bolts..
i loosened the top cap (the anodized blue cap with the adjuster)
then i lowered the front of the bike to push everything up out of the tube
i removed the locking spacer and the spacer tube (you'll recognize it if you do this)
i used 2 14mm wrenches to break the lock nut under the cap loose (1 for the lock nut and 1 for the adjuster up top)
then i reached in with my fingers and removed the washer/spacer and the spring (i have long fingers... most people will have to use something)
then i put the new springs in and reversed the process above and tightened the adjusters untill i could only see 2 lines above the blue cap.

the springs i put in are supposed to be .90 kg... thats what mikey told me when i got them from him... i am supposed to have the 1.0 kg springs because of my weight.. but they are expensive if it annoys you then buy me the correct ones and i will send you these..

anyway... took a quick loop around the neighborhood...
i still have brake dive but it is not near as bad as before...
100% better... i could only imagine if i lost 25 pounds (i aint gonna) or put in the heavier springs (probably aint gonna)...
i recently put the ss brake lines on and was kinda sorta impressed....
but now with the stiffer springs HOLY SHIIIT!!!
i did stoppies... this bike has NEVER been able to stoppie with me on it before... and it HAS to be the springs along with the ss lines...

wow this mamma jamma gots brakes now!!!!

if you would like pictures of this modification tell me and i will get a pencil and draw you a picture of what i did...

p.s. i felt much better after i finished working on the bike....

i am now curious how much it will improve when i put the gold valve kits in... my buddy the tech ain't had time lately...



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post #12 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 04:08 AM
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Good deal brian

Now go check it this morning in the day light to make sure you don't have everything upside down since you did it in the dark


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post #13 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 06:44 AM
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Have you checked/set the sag? 30 mm - 35 mm. If not...do it!

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post #14 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
...i raised the front wheel off the ground about 1" or so (didnt measure)
Hey Brian, how did you do this?
I've got some RaceTech .9's & I'm ready to throw 'em in.
I just don't really know how to go about raising the front end.
Don't have a front lift, or any way of suspending the front from the ceiling of my garage.

I do have a buddy who's a mechanic & has a couple car lifts in his shop.
I've thought about throwing some tie-downs around the front of the frame between the triples & the front of the gas tank & looping them up over the lift
- kinda like hanging it by a noose.

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post #15 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 08:27 AM
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I need to do this, noticed a lot of front end dive yesterday.

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post #16 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omaha_919 View Post
Hey Brian, how did you do this?
i got my trusty cinder block and tilted her up on the kickstand and slid it under the header... voila... then when both were unscrewed i grabbed it by the slider and picked the front end up and slid the c/b out a bit to lower it down where i could get to the lock nut... then when i went to reassemble i picked it back up high and put the c/b back under again...



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post #17 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMike View Post
Have you checked/set the sag? 30 mm - 35 mm. If not...do it!
i will check/set it... i have to get a neighbor to help me...

i do know when i get on it drops quite a bit.. maybe 1 1/2" or so.. but don't have a accurate measurement..



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post #18 of 18 Old 04-27-2009, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
i got my trusty cinder block and tilted her up on the kickstand and slid it under the header... voila... then when both were unscrewed i grabbed it by the slider and picked the front end up and slid the c/b out a bit to lower it down where i could get to the lock nut... then when i went to reassemble i picked it back up high and put the c/b back under again...
My method was similar when changing my front tire. Instead of the side stand, I used the Phobman Stand. With a center stand you can just have someone lean on the back while you slide the cinder block under. I cut a piece of 1/2 inch plywood to cover the block so the header wasn't resting directly on the block, but on wood.

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