proper tire inflation - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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proper tire inflation

This thread is for people to post there findings of good tires pressures both hot and cold.

The proper tire pressure is one that will increase by 10% from cold to hot.

For example, i ran this check today

Air temp : 80 f
Elevation : 750 ft

Front tire :
power pure 120/60-17
Cold : 32 hot : 35
increase = 10%

Rear tire :
power pure 180/55-17
cold : 30 hot : 34
increase : 13%

From this it shows that my cold pressure is too low and i need to run about 31 psi and recheck.

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post #2 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 01:05 PM
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you run a 120/60 front on a 919? 1 run 31/31 cold on reg powers but have yet to check em hot

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post #3 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
This thread is for people to post there findings of good tires pressures both hot and cold.

The proper tire pressure is one that will increase by 10% from cold to hot.

No it is not.
The so called 10 % Rule dates back to the late 70s.
Today it is seen as guideline with validity is some but not all circumstances.

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post #4 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 02:14 PM
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Agree with the above. All the bike manuals I've read state a cold tyre pressure. Period.

I am aware that if you are at the track on track tyres some tyre makers recommend hot temps.

IMO it is more important to regularly (like every 2 weeks) check your tyre pressures to ensure they are at the cold pressures you prefer.
I state that you prefer as from reading WT it appears there is a wide variety of pressures preferred by individual riders on the exact same bikes (919 for example).

I'm going to check the cold/hot differences purely out of interest after your post.

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post #5 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Appleseed - yep, as an experiment. Turns out i don't like it. The front feels a little slow.

Mcromo - im aware of its age but still use it as a starting point. Then from there i can decide what to change in order to get the most out of the different compounds and riding situations.

Allan - i started This thread to find out exactely that, what people prefer in comparison to the old 10% rule. Taking into consideration temp, elevation, and tire type. This would generate a general data base for tire pressures and type of riding.

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post #6 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 05:54 PM
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Stock tire pressure here. Cold in the mornings, mid 50s then hot in the afternoons, 80s to 90s. Never had a problem and it feels great to me.

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post #7 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 06:02 PM
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i run 30/30 - 32/32 .... on pilot power 2ct's typically have at least 5psi increase when i run real hard.... and i wouldnt want them any harder.... 10% increase is kinda a VERY loose guideline IMO.

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post #8 of 36 Old 07-01-2011, 09:02 PM
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+1 on the 2ct's. I ran them at a higher PSI to reduce tire wear on my 1,000 mile commute to Deals Gap. (I ran 36 front/ 38 rear) They cupped by the time I got there.

The 2ct's like lower PSI's.......

Of course.....a days worth of runs at 30/30 cured my problems.....

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post #9 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
Mcromo - im aware of its age but still use it as a starting point. Then from there i can decide what to change in order to get the most out of the different compounds and riding situations.
Gotta laugh.
You're playing with compounds while I stick with one tire for all the bikes in the family and go mad on the suspension side.
Interestingly enough, re the Michelin 2CT cold settings I'm using :
Solo Street 32 F 35 R
Two Up Street 33 F 38 R
IF I was touring on them Two Up it would be 34 F 40 R
Track Settings are 31.5 F and 29 R re warm ambient days, with 33 Hot Front being a specific target I've been told to shoot for and is very specific to the tire.

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post #10 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Why is that a laughing matter? My tires have a tough job to do. I ride 16k miles a year and ride hard for every one of them. So i need a good balance of performance and mileage. Hence my experimentation with different tires and air pressures.

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post #11 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
Why is that a laughing matter? My tires have a tough job to do. I ride 16k miles a year and ride hard for every one of them. So i need a good balance of performance and mileage. Hence my experimentation with different tires and air pressures.
Twas intended humour towards a most serious affair.
And coming from someone that yesterday was laying on the garage floor measuring swing arm angle after zeroing the gauge to the floor plane

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post #12 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Ah i see, laughing due to me being ocd like some others on here. Ok cool, im glad im not alone

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post #13 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
Ah i see, laughing due to me being ocd like some others on here. Ok cool, im glad im not alone
You are not alone.

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post #14 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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On the subject of tires and this 10% thing and mileage. Using this method helped me find a good pressure for my pr2's that yeilded a 20k mile life span. And so far i have 4k on my power pures and might be half way through them. So it has definately helped me get more miles out of my tires.

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post #15 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
On the subject of tires and this 10% thing and mileage. Using this method helped me find a good pressure for my pr2's that yeilded a 20k mile life span. And so far i have 4k on my power pures and might be half way through them. So it has definately helped me get more miles out of my tires.
How do you like the Pures ?
I was blown away by hard good they are in the rain on a very wet track.
Mind boggling for someone who had never done any track time in the wet.
Very low mass tire as well, a poor man's lighter wheel weight effect.

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post #16 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
On the subject of tires and this 10% thing and mileage. Using this method helped me find a good pressure for my pr2's that yeilded a 20k mile life span. And so far i have 4k on my power pures and might be half way through them. So it has definately helped me get more miles out of my tires.
What PSI were you running? On the PR2s that is

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post #17 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Mcromo - i like them, saved 6lbs over the pr2's. Sticky icky when warm but the pr2's stuck better under 50.

Dave - if memory serves me correctely i was running 30-30.

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post #18 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
Mcromo - i like them, saved 6lbs over the pr2's. Sticky icky when warm but the pr2's stuck better under 50.
Yes, Roads make much more sense on cold pavement.
And on cold wet pavement, even more so.
I think the stickies are madness when the air is in the 40s, let alone a wet high 40s or low 50s.

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post #19 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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I figure ill be done with these by the end of august then ill do pr2-3's over the winter.

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post #20 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferris Bueller View Post
I figure ill be done with these by the end of august then ill do pr2-3's over the winter.
Winter in Illinois ?
Going to stud them up ?
Doesn't Illinois get real winter ?
At least some of the time?
With salted roads ?

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post #21 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yes we do, no studs needed. I don't ride if there's wet and under 32. Black ice is a biatch. I do however ride year round. Hell last winter i would ride to work and by the time i got there the fog in my visor would be frozen.

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post #22 of 36 Old 07-02-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
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Yes we do, no studs needed. I don't ride if there's wet and under 32. Black ice is a biatch. I do however ride year round. Hell last winter i would ride to work and by the time i got there the fog in my visor would be frozen.
Rickard stops at -32 !!!!
He rides every month of the year, regardless !

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post #23 of 36 Old 07-03-2011, 08:24 AM
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I run 34-36 ft, 37-39 rear, measured cold in the morning, first thing. As Dave stated here earlier, in CO we have 30-50 degree temp swings every day, so you will get a different reading morning to afternoon. Tire pressure changes 1 psi per 10 degrees ambient temp anyway, due to molecule energy, so you can get a big variance if you constantly check it. I tried running my tires at lower pressures, both sets, incidentally, the original battleaxes and now the dunlop roadsmarts, and I don't like the mushy feel. Dave.

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post #24 of 36 Old 07-03-2011, 09:08 AM
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I tend to set them twice a year once on the first 80+oF (by mid May to mid June depending on hard our spring was) day of the year and then by November it tends to stay in the 50s during the day but we can get some 70oF days too. So that first week in Nov I set the pressure again. And to go along with that on a typical ride I can again and loose over 2000ft or more of elevation. I just tend to set and forget otherwise I would constantly worry about my tire pressure and stop every hour or so to make sure they are correct.

On this ride, https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ost-27413.html I went from 6,500ft to 11,500ft to 5,500 ft back up to 6,500 ft . The temperature went from the 80s to the 70s then in to the high 90s all in one 8hr day of riding.
JMHO but maybe some of us can over think things a little too much?

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post #25 of 36 Old 07-03-2011, 01:39 PM
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how the hell you guys get 10k+ out of a single tire is beyond me! ... my rear road 2 was done in 5k... and my last power 2ct in 2800... haha.


what i have found is take your tire pressure with the same guage, in the same conditions... so i take it before my ride with my same lil blue guage... i have found where i like pressures on that guage and stick with it.

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post #26 of 36 Old 07-03-2011, 03:40 PM
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Fred Rau at MCN did a story about the 10% rule a few years ago (2006-07) It's not a cure all, but, is the best for all round tire performance, grip, mileage, protection of rims(pot holes) and wearing even.
I've used it for years, having been taught by older riders.
I've always got really good mileage, don't mind riding in rain, and never stretch myself out on public roads.
Hornet 36~40 and KRS 38~41
I rode 22,000 miles this past year. June 1,2010-June 3,2011. Yes, notice I needed 2 more days to hit my goal.
I use June 1st as the start because that was the day I retired in 2007. I've got 58,000 miles since then. I am more concerned with mileage then the last oz of grip.

I use a digital gauge that claims +or- 1% at 100lbs

[
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post #27 of 36 Old 07-03-2011, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokerecord View Post
Fred Rau at MCN did a story about the 10% rule a few years ago (2006-07) It's not a cure all, but, is the best for all round tire performance, grip, mileage, protection of rims(pot holes) and wearing even.
I've used it for years, having been taught by older riders.
I've always got really good mileage, don't mind riding in rain, and never stretch myself out on public roads.
Hornet 36~40 and KRS 38~41
I rode 22,000 miles this past year. June 1,2010-June 3,2011. Yes, notice I needed 2 more days to hit my goal.
I use June 1st as the start because that was the day I retired in 2007. I've got 58,000 miles since then. I am more concerned with mileage then the last oz of grip.

I use a digital gauge that claims +or- 1% at 100lbs
As a valid simple guideline for general street application and street tires, it's one of two that exist.
The other valid guideline that exists, is not to run the liability type numbers that Honda and Suzuki for example use. As in the tire pressure numbers that are nothing more than the tire manufacturer's posted required pressures for their tires to be able to meet their posted maximum allowable load ratings. 36/42 on a 919 is absolute madness for an average weight solo rider with no luggage. Remember, the tires are also part of the suspension system, so are not supposed to be rock hard rigid in the sidewalls, and excessive pressure corrupts that concept.

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post #28 of 36 Old 10-02-2011, 03:22 PM
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Quick question, now that these threads have me paranoid about my pressures.

Right now I've got the flat spot on my rear from lots of hwy mileage, and I've been running on the high pressure range, around 35-42 (front-rear). If I drop the pressures to around 32-34, the rear should start to wear a little more evenly right? And likely it be a little safer since I would have more rubber on the road, minus the lost mpg.

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post #29 of 36 Old 10-02-2011, 03:56 PM
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If I remember right, lower pressure on the highway will create higher tire temps, not good. f your tire is squared off badly, I'd think about replacing it(them) especially if they're OEM. I've been running ~34f and ~36 rear on my PR3's and it seems to be OK so far, around 2k miles with no visible wear.

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post #30 of 36 Old 10-02-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
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If I remember right, lower pressure on the highway will create higher tire temps, not good. f your tire is squared off badly, I'd think about replacing it(them) especially if they're OEM. I've been running ~34f and ~36 rear on my PR3's and it seems to be OK so far, around 2k miles with no visible wear.

The rear is squared off, I plan on replacing both next month, at the very least the rear. The front isnt squared off but it's almost to the wear bars.

I just checked the pressures and they are 30 front 32 rear.

bike has a Pilot Road front and Pilot Power rear

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post #31 of 36 Old 10-02-2011, 04:16 PM
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The road and power have different profiles to begin with, some people will mix tires, I prefer to keep the same type front and rear. From what I've read, seems like some run similar pressures with no problems.

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post #32 of 36 Old 10-03-2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 919rocket View Post
I run 34-36 ft, 37-39 rear, measured cold in the morning, first thing. As Dave stated here earlier, in CO we have 30-50 degree temp swings every day, so you will get a different reading morning to afternoon. Tire pressure changes 1 psi per 10 degrees ambient temp anyway, due to molecule energy, so you can get a big variance if you constantly check it. I tried running my tires at lower pressures, both sets, incidentally, the original battleaxes and now the dunlop roadsmarts, and I don't like the mushy feel. Dave.

agree with the mushy feeling...im amazed with the lower pressure most run..i run the same pressure,,,, have more grip then anyone is going to use on the street and get twice the milage then most

dont need a bike to ride the fast lane
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post #33 of 36 Old 10-03-2011, 03:04 PM
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Yeah I rode today to work with the 30-32 psi and it was waaaaay too mushy. Stopped and filled to 35-38 and it was great.

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post #34 of 36 Old 10-04-2011, 04:52 AM
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I always have hard time understanding how you guys can ride 30 front 31 rear. Forget about curves, I can barely go straight with those figures...

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post #35 of 36 Old 10-04-2011, 06:24 AM
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I start out at 31-32, but, I ride in 100+ degree heat, and I've never checked them when I get done. I can tell you the rear tire feels about as hot as the exhaust pipes when I'm done! The GOOD thing about riding in such hot temps is the tires seem to stick very well...I bet a track rider would be peeling rubber off of the edges very quickly at these temps. Good thing I'm not a track rider, I guess.

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post #36 of 36 Old 10-04-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
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I always have hard time understanding how you guys can ride 30 front 31 rear. Forget about curves, I can barely go straight with those figures...
Personally, in terms of the 2CTs etc of this world, I question going below 34/35 for the rear and less than 32 in the front.
IF one really needs the lower pressures for maximum grip, then they are on the wrong piece of pavement and should be on a track.

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