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Power Commander - Differences

3K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  jkraft 
#1 · (Edited)
Was offered a new PC-V from my brother inlaw at our local bike shop. It's $299 plus taxes out the door.

Besides the higher cost than a used PCIII, I can't find a definitive answer whether or not I can use the PCIII maps that are available (like from LDH, etc.) to use on the PCV.

If I overlooked this on our search engine, I apologize. I didn't mean to post a reiteration.

Appreciate the help as I'm looking to remove the choppiness of the low rpms (1500-3000) on my new 04' CB919

Cheers,
 
#6 ·
What's the difference from one to another within the same class? Example:
https://www.denniskirk.com/dynojet/power-commander-iii-usb-1020-0643.p208624.prd/208624.sku

It's $83 but not for a 919, so what's the difference, the interface to the computer and why can't we adapt it to fit?

Each one us custom made for the model bike it fits. Sensor inputs, Molex connectors etc. In many cases you could snip & solder a lot of different units to make new connections that would work properly, but way too much effort and there are also a lot of nuances built in to specific models that preclude such action.


For example: The linked ad above is for a single cylinder Suzuki quad...
 
#9 ·
I got a power commander 111. Fitted it to my bike a couple of years ago. Along with suspension upgrades was one of the best things I did to my bike. Really smoothed out my throttle/fueling. My bike was getting too much fuel at low speed/small throttle openings. It was almost impossible to maintain a constant low speed. The bike would surge and clunk a lot. Also the throttle transition at any speed was very abrupt, sort of harsh on/off feel. The power commander 111 pretty much sorted all that out.
I will also add the starter valve synchronization also improved/smoothed out my low speed. My starter valves were way off.
 
#15 ·
I will agree with mcromo in regards to the air filter. On my bike a K&N air filter would significantly alter the way my bike ran at low throttle/low speed. Made riding at low speed very rough and jerky. Could not maintain a constant even engine speed. It was crap for cruising about slowly and looking cool. Made it look like you couldn't ride hahaha!
Putting a OEM filter back immediately fixed all that. Feeling cool again.
I got two perfectly good K&N air filters sitting on a shelf gathering dust.
 
#16 ·
I didn't notice any difference except a very small amount in the mid range. I could hear the difference because I didn't have the cover on and the extra power in the mid range was so small that cooler air would made 2X the difference.

The jerky low end is more about were the torque kicks in, if you slip the clutch, you don't feel it much but if you're going very slow and turn the throttle, it like to jump when the torque kicks in.

One other option is to get a cam for the throttle so that it moves slower at the start.
 
#32 ·
I have decades worth of professional experience. Racebikes blow transmissions all the time. I can think of 2 failures from the 2020 season opener at WERA West right off the top of my head. In fact I bet there is not a race event held that somebody doesn't junk a tranny.



Streetbikes too. How many times have we all met somebody at a Sunday ride & they either don't have 2nd gear or it doesn't engage properly etc. I know most have witnessed this themselves at some point.



You are still putting metal on metal until the shift dogs slip into place and usually at high loads with a quickshifter. If the timing is off as it frequently is because it is never perfect at all rpms in each gear with an aftermarket unit you can actually cause more wear with the QS than you would if you were just clutchless upshifting with a break in throttle opening. Even with factory fitted quickshifters where they have the ability to tune every single shift to the exact timing of the engine because they write the mappings many times they do not allow the QS to function below certain rpms as a safeguard & those units function way better than any aftermarket QS I have ever tested.



If you have a racebike and don't really care about the longevity of the transmission then all is fine. The entire bike can be sacrificial in the pursuit of a good lap time and some contingency money. I totally get that and do it myself, but I am fully aware of what I am doing to the transmission.



If you want to insure the life of the transmission then using the clutch is a better option.
 
#33 ·
If you want to insure the life of the transmission then using the clutch is a better option.

I couldn't agree more.
I too have been racing for 25 years, nothing more than a GSXR750 though, perhaps litre bikes with massive HP have more of an issue, or perhaps some other maintenance issue is involved.
My only problem was with an FZ07 jumping out of gear but that seems to be a common problem with them.
Anyway didn't mean to ruffle feathers.
 
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